Where did you get the rubber intake flex hose from?

I got the intake flex hose from Hose Depot Direct Ltd, I'm not 100% sure on its cost as i bought a load of different hose and have lost the receipt
01302 746969 if you want to call them, if you tell them that Steve bought some for a 306 the other day they should be able to remember which stuff i got, it may be about 62mm or so ID.

I do want to get rid of the cowling and get a couple of Spal slimline fans but i'm on such a tight budget now that i cant justify it before i go to the 'ring in 6 weeks
It's something that i will be doing in the near future though.

Yeah there does look to be a lot of clearance in the photo's Phil, i'll have a gander in a bit to see if there is actually as much as it looks or if its all just angles tricking us in the photos.

Cheers Si, Your project has been a good read too

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Goldie the track car.

Oil radiators fitted, slam panel back on, headlights back in, grille back on, bumper back on.
Gearbox oil filled to the level, engine oil in, brakes bled.
Almost finished the front end for now, just needs coolant and a quick once over then thats that done, then i'll buy and fit some fans at the weekend.

Not much left now to get it running, a bit of wiring for the killswitch, a few holes to drill to mount the battery tray and its ready for a test start

Beer o'clock now though

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Goldie the track car.

I've already emailed them to see if they can take some spal ones with them, if not then i'll just get their own brand as i had already seen them on their online store. I've spoke to those guys at the show the last couple of years and they seem decent guys.

Pictures from todays work:
IMG_0981 by Steve Count, on Flickr
IMG_0985 by Steve Count, on Flickr

I wanted to do 90* to 90* in the middle with just a small section of hose joining them but due to the length of the fittings the radiators would have had to be too far apart, or i would have had to chop the fittings down a bit, neither of those options appealed to me so i just used the 45* ones i had and did a loop

I forgot to get a picture with all the bodywork back in place but im pretty happy with the position of the radiators, just debating whether to spray them black for the stealthier look or not.

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Goldie the track car.

Nice update again fella. Really makes me jealous that my progression is zilch.

Gives me something to read at work.

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I'm Si btw

Night Blue VW Golf GTD
Bianca LBSC Rallye - Track/Road Slag Project Thread
Sparkling Silver Mini Cooper D - Super Dooper - (The other half's wheels)

ja ja ja

Cheers for the compliments guys

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Goldie the track car.

Or just get paul to use proper connections now you know the position, metal shrounds that clamp onto the hose, went and got some today steve for my new cooler

How much you pay in the end for all the pipes and fittings.

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Dimma + Gt35 turbo =
Solid rear beam mounts £130
07889376885
Dan

looks fantastic mate

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230 hp 2.1 16v XU 205 rallye on jenveys Project thread here
309 3dr K20 Type R

I've just been out and tested the car, i'm getting no spark and no fuel. I took a spark plug out, put the end into the coil pack and pushed the other end onto the cam cover, no spark. Just to make sure i tried it on another cylinders spark plug and same result.

The fuel pump doesnt seem to be priming either, i gave it a couple of love taps with the handle of a screwdriver incase it had seized whilst its been stood.

I need to have a search round on here but these problems are suggesting ECU to me.


Another problem is that the key seems to be flattening the small batteries on its own, i put brand new in a couple of months ago and nothing when i tried pressing it today, as a result when i turn the power on the lights start flashing and wont stop, theres no sound as the alarm siren has been removed and probably didnt make noise anyway.

The final weird thing, and i reckon its probably due to my killswitch wiring, when i put the key in and turn it one click, nothing seems to happen, no lights light up etc, then on the second click the dash lights etc kick into action.

I couldnt find which wires to the ignition switch were CC2 which according to the haynes manual would be the one to split for the killswitch, but it did say JN which is code for yellow, therefore i snipped the yellow wire and put the killswitch into that circuit.
Before i cut that wire i got my multimeter out and tested the three sets of wires to the ignition switch, the blue and red ones (from memory) only closed the circuit when the key was in the starter position. However the other two pairs closed i think on the 2nd click and stayed open on the first click, hence why i chose to cut the yellow one as it made sense along with the haynes manual suggesting that that one was the one to split to cut ignition.

To double check that the above is not the issue i simply connected the yellow wire back together without it going through the killswitch but there was still no priming of the fuel pump or spark

I'm going to get stuck into the search feature on here to see if i've made a rookie mistake but if anyone knows what may be the issue feel free to post it

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Goldie the track car.

I didnt try my multimeter on the fuel pump's connector but dont think it is getting any power.

The wiring is mostly standard, i ran the live lead from the battery to the killswitch, then from the killswitch to the big terminal on the starter. Then i just made spur leads from the starters big terminal, one to alternator and two into the fuse box in the engine bay.
I checked the big terminal in the engine bay and it read 14V with the killswitch in the on position so i dont think its a voltage drop issue.

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Goldie the track car.

I tried pressing it a couple of times but it didnt make any difference.

I'm going to get some new batteries for the key fob and hopefully that will sort the immobiliser issue, and i've been doing a bit of searching on here so i'm going to check the fuel relay tomorrow. If needs be i can swap parts between this car and my diablo to find out what the issue is, hopefully its something simple that i've overlooked or something cheap to replace.

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Goldie the track car.

Well she runs now

A massive thanks to cooper for coming over and getting it sorted

The issue was that i had just left the old alternators wiring disconnected and wrapped up in insulating tape out of the way, this meant that the battery light didnt come on on the first click etc.
Once we tried connecting them both to positive feed the fuel pump would prime and we had spark.
From then onwards it didnt take much to get it started.

For some reason the stop light is very intermittently coming on, i'm not sure what the cause is as its got plenty of coolant, oil and brake fluid.

When i start the car up from cold the oil pressure sits between 4 and 5 bar, but once its warm it drops to about 1.5 bar, which i feel may be a bit low but could someone please confirm this, and if it is low, what should it be? It rises with the revs happily enough when its warm.


We noticed a bit of oil in the coolant, so i shit myself thinking it was the headgasket, out came the compression tester and all 4 cylinders are happily getting to 230psi.
The last thing i have done for the day is to put a home brew header tank on to the top of the radiator as if i'm bleeding it, put a load of coolant in it so the top layer was the oil part and used a sucker and some rags to soak the oil up, there was only a thin layer and i suspect that it may have come from the second hand heat exchanger that i used, as it was completely drenched in oil when it arrived, so i'm hoping it was just some oil which had made its way inside.

There was a couple of eric's happened today, the high pressure hose threw itself off the banjo when i was steering from side to side to try and bleed the system, the bloody fluid got everywhere!

I had a couple of fuel leaks, in the end i sacked off the 10mm ID stuff and used 8mm for both, the plastic 45* connectors are both 8mm anyway so it was just a pain trying to get the hose onto the fuel rail.
The pressure regulator also had some sealing issues but they have been sorted with new seals now.

It starts first time now which is nice, but there is a slight misfire, i need to work out the cause of it but it may just be down to leaving the ecu disconnected and it needing to learn its new settings etc.

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Goldie the track car.