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Author Subject: Mik's Rallye
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

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Post #51
Thanks, I've read yours with interest too.


I installed the Autoleads PC99-X19/PC99-BLA (Blaupunkt) remote stalk patch lead today. Not a total success as the stalk does not alter volume without changing the radio station/music track as well! Smegal suggested it could be a worn-out stalk or an incompatibility in the wiring - the worn-out stalk contact sounds a very good possibility but but as the same lead is sold by a Blaupunkt agent the wiring incompatibility seems unlikely. Googling the Autoleads patch lead and looking on here shows a fair few people with problems getting it to work properly - seems to be somewhat hit-and-miss. [EDIT: Got another stalk and installed it but no real difference, so it was not the stalk. Sometimes it worked correctly, most of the time it didn't. Have deleted the stalk entirely for now].

I did delete the completely surplus speaker wire interface though - it adds nothing to the situation apart from giving more room to manoeuvre at the expense of adding more bulky wiring and an extra connector in the speaker circuit which for the purist like me means degradation in sound quality - as if the speaker wires weren't thin enough already!

When mucking about with head units a big piece of double-thickness duct tape (masking tape didn't stick and probably too thin) around the stereo aperture is a very good idea to prevent scratching that centre console with the sharp metal corners of the rear of the head unit when connecting wires. I have put a decent centre console on now but when I got the car the original one had loads of scratches on it from botched attempts to get the stereo in/out. So duct tape FTW.

I've also persevered with the rear floorpan surface rust - after chiseling and both manual and drill-driven wire brushing is looking OK. The rust can prove quite difficult to shift initially - I now use a chisel, then manual/drill wire brush, then various grades of wet and dry. A lot of elbow grease, but the end result is something approaching the actual sound metal.

I am wondering what to paint it with as the POR-15 needs to be employed exactly right or it doesn't work well. It says "paint directly onto rust" and "don't use rust converters" but the website recommends a prep of its own that is a converter! I also tried the Wickes metal primer (water-based unusually) but it was very stiff like jelly and displayed signs of chalkiness when dry - old stock maybe? Just does not inspire confidence. The Wickes "Poppy" red non-drip enamel applied in a test part (so luckily does not need hours of re-doing) is not properly dry after 3 days and does not cover well at all - after one coat it is positively translucent. So despite the fact it is a good colour match I am not going to use it - I'll buy some decent paint thanks very much.

I am currently considering using a normal rust converter like Kurust (nice and thin so gets in all the nooks and crannies), maybe a decent primer, then painting over that with the POR-15 satin top coat Chassis Black - supposedly designed for previously painted/primed surfaces, unlike the POR-15 rust paint.

So all in all a bit of a mixed result today.

The patch lead assembled...the green plug on the right goes into the back of the head unit. The blue plug slotted onto it on the right is a separate purchase and terminates in a 3.5mm jack to plug in an iPhone/iPod. The plugs slot together and go into the 'C' (top) connector on the back of the unit - the plug comes in 3 parts depending on what you are attaching the toe head unit. The bits I have used are C2 (remote control and telephone) and C3 (CD changer/rear aux). (To complete the set there is also available a third one (C1) which can be slotted onto side of the blue/green plug for a separate amp feed).

The 3.5mm jack was fed into the upper glove box (no drilling required and took all of 30 secs) for easy attachment of an iPod. The head unit controls this via the rear aux/CD changer function. Will try it out soon.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 12th Aug 2011 at 21:21
mik

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Registered: 17 Feb 2011

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Post #52
...pulling the head unit out - note the duct tape protecting the fascia.

mik has attached the following image:

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 12th Aug 2011 at 17:20
mik

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Post #53
...leads all plugged in ready for connecting head unit...

mik has attached the following image:

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 12th Aug 2011 at 17:21
mik

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Post #54
...and leftover bits at the end. I could not get the head unit to lock into place with the Autoleads 306 filler plate installed, but have now realised that it needs to be installed before the cage is put in, not after. So when I can be bothered removing it all again and unbending the cage (I made a really good job of getting it in there bending tabs etc) I may reinstall it. Though it actually looks quite good without it.

The left-over wires are for the speaker wires - completely superfluous. Others have gone further and deleted the similar power loom by inserting the 2 wires to feed the Autoleads black box directly into the vehicle's loom. This is neater, but the patch lead is designed to be plug and play at the expense of a bunch of extra wires.

mik has attached the following image:

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 12th Aug 2011 at 17:26
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

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Post #55
Just did another quick job. After noticing that the new better front speakers caused some buzzing at higher volumes, I noted that the factory speakers are only attached with 3 screws, which are not equally spaced - there is a screw at 9, 12 and 3 o'clock but not at 6 o'clock. Just now I grabbed some spare screws and drilled another hole at the 6 o'clock position, at the very front corner of each door. With the speakers out I noticed that the door card itself is not firmly attached at that point, but there is already a screw hole in the door card under the speaker and a corresponding one in the door skin. A couple of suitable sized screws and the problem is solved.

So now the speakers are attached with equal pressure all the way around and the door card under the speaker is firmly attached to the door.

The buzzing, predictably, is gone and the speakers sound better now they are firmly anchored.

Just have to remember that extra screw next time the door card has to come off. It might have been there when new but discarded by a previous door card dismantler.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 13th Aug 2011 at 00:09
mik

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Post #56
I had another look underneath at where I applied the POR-15. Rust is showing through it in various places, including the sills that definitely got 2 coats and the paint according to instructions stirred not shaken, and where the rust is not at all extensive so it could easily penetrate it. I've done some research on the net and the feelings about POR-15 could best be described as mixed. There were some very strong testimonials in support of it, but on the other hand there were also plenty of results just like mine.

Despite the fact that it is advertised as intended to "paint it straight onto rust" and "it sticks best to rust as it provides a good key" and it "seals the rust in" it looks no better than I imagine what painting standard black enamel onto rust would look like. The car has been garaged at all times except when being driven or washed, and it is only 4 -5 months since I applied the paint.

Reading carefully they do recommend "Prep 'n' Ready" (previously called Metal Ready) a preparation product that "neutralises the rust" (but isn't POR-15 supposed to do that??) while stopping short of saying the Prep 'n' Ready is essential. It also needs a tie coat to paint over it, or use of another POR-15 product as a top coat, and it is subject to UV fading if not top coated. All in all you need around 3 other POR-15 products to make it work, and it all adds up to a quite a lot more than other solutions but I am not convinced it is better - or even as good as - more supposedly low-tech solutions.

I am sure POR-15 can be made to work if you do everything exactly right (and spend quite a lot), but it is way too fussy for my liking, can't be applied over previous paint, fades in UV light, can't be painted over without a tie-coat, doesn't like Burger King on Sundays, etc (I made up the bit about Burger King). I've used Hammerite quite a lot previously and never had anything like these problems with it. I have also heard from Coskev and others on here that Rust Bullet has nothing like these problems.

However, what I have decided on is a bit more traditional - actually remove the rust and not just paint over it:

Step 1 - chisel off the rust scale and old paint to get close as possible to clean metal (wire-brushing heavy scale doesn't do much, all it does is polish the rusty scale).

Step 2 - extensive wire brushing.

Step 3 - rust remover that takes it back to clean metal (Hammerite Gel or Bilt Hamber Deox Gel).

Step 4 - to get any little bits that might still be hiding and etch surface, Kurust rust converter or similar.

Step 5 - Red Oxide or Zinc primer (old fashioned but proven).

Step 6 - At least 2 coats of hard-wearing enamel top coat.

It is going to be very time-consuming, but I think it will get some decent results.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 14th Sep 2016 at 11:45
coskev

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Post #57
Oh dear,not good about the Por-15Sad

Big job ahead of you,but will be nice and protected when your finishedSmile

Highly recommend these:

Rust removal discs

Buy them for a couple of from local motor factorsWink

Also good old paint stripper for tight areas/corners etcSmile

________________________________________

Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........

Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress.
Posted 16th Aug 2011 at 03:29
mik

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Post #58
Thanks for the info, much appreciated.

I've done plenty of research on the rust removal business now, and have gone for Bilt-Hamber Deox Gel and Bilt-Hamber Electrox zinc primer. The red oxide will be used for areas in better nick where it is impracticable to remove all old paint as it sticks better onto paint than the Electrox, and I'll be doing yet another round of rust removal into all the nooks and crannies with paint stripper, Deox Gel and more sanding where appropriate. I've found that Kurust does not soak into rust if it is anything more than very minor - anything scaly has to be removed with a chisel, rust gel and wire brush in a drill/grinder. It is OK for killing the remnants of rust in small pits etc. The panels and wheel arches in particular on my car are perfect, with just a little bit of flaking paint here and there it looks as though the panels are zinc primed from the factory as there is no rust where the paint is lifting. Some areas underneath were not zinc primed though (e.g. the cross-beams behind the front wheel arches) , and that is where the rust seems to start. As you can tell I plan to keep this car for a while.

While the forum has been down I've ordered some more bits:

A GTI-6 leather steering wheel (I don't like the Rallye plastic rim but want a OEM-ish look). The new airbag has got a much nicer surface finish (more subtle grain and matt finish instead of shiny) than the one in there - and the silver badge is not scratched.

New radio stalk to hopefully address the radio stalk problem.

Another spare wheel cage as mine looks as though it was buried in a beach (as someone else on here said)

door strips (fit at the bottom of the window where you rest your elbow) as mine are bubbled at the ends.

Bolts and screws for both bumper attachments

New silver-top gear knob (back order until 13 Sep apparently)

Wheel arch "pine tree" trim clips

B-Pillar stick-on stuff

I will order a P3 embossed rear badge soon as I forgot to include it and got a Rallye flash for the bonnet (for when I get the bonnet painted).

I also ordered matt aluminium silver dial bezels from the Tuning Shop as it will go with the silver gear knob and handbrake button but still be subtle.

I can do the steering wheel, bezels and radio stalk in one go once I get a T50 bit for the steering wheel. FAQs on here very helpful - they should not have an expiry date!

And I got a Raceland strut brace brand new for £29 (£40 including postage from Belgium) as they dropped the price by around £10 and I couldn't resist.

Currently looking for an engine undertray and a P3 silver handbrake button.

Once I get my seam welded subframe back from Daveyboy I will get new subframe mounts from Pug and new engine/gearbox mounts from Vibratechnics.

The plan is to finish off the rear underside and rear arches, drive it a bit more, then SORN for winter and sort out the front arches, underside and deal with the minor surface rust at the front of the engine bay.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 5th Sep 2011 at 23:52
mik

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Post #59
Received the Raceland strut brace today. It is the same design as the OMP one and in red. OK for the price, but the paint finish isn't that great. And being steel it is heavier than I would have liked but no-one seems to do an ally one at present.

As the (black top P2 type) gear knob in the car is knackered with torn leather, I spoke to Pug about a new gear knob today who said the only one listed is a black-topped version. The silver one he ordered last week had appeared but was a 5-speed type. Should have got the P3 knob that was on e-bay a few weeks back.

EDIT: The "black" gear knob arrived and it is the Phase 3 silver topped six-speed one I wanted - cost around £35.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 6th Sep 2011 at 18:01
mik

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Post #60
*EDIT - Finally got a photobucket account so pics are uploaded *

I've been busy over the last few weeks so time for a catch-up post or two.

I got a less-rusty spare wheel cage as mine was too far gone to refurb.

At the same time I got a P3 leather steering wheel from the same place, and the wheel has cleaned up very well. I prefer leather wheels and this version looks much better-finished than the Rallye wheel.



This will be going on soon, and at the same time I will do the new radio stalk (the current one changes stations when it is let go after changing the volume setting - hoping it is the stalk itself and not something to do with the Autoleads remote stalk adapter), as well as replace the stereo aperture surround, and install the matt ally instrument bezels which will go nicely with the new gearknob I got from Peugeot this week. Like Matt Evans I was feeling a little inadequate in the knob department, in particular it was looking a bit loose around the top and showing its age generally. The new knob looks better and I am sure it will be much nicer to handle. OK enough knob jokes. All I need now is a silver handbrake button to complete the "OEM+bling" effect.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 20th Sep 2011 at 18:49
mik

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Post #61
Here is the knob still in its plastic bag - and still available from Peugeot for less than advertised on ebay! I got a bunch of stuff from Peugeot, including the strips that clip onto the door at the bottom of the window, as mine were bubbled from the rusting metal strip inside. I also got the bolts for the front and rear bumpers so all the corroded ones can be replaced, and a nice new P3 rear badge. It is not too apparent from the pic but the P3 style is much better quality and nicer looking, especially as the original one is a bit dog-eared.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 20th Sep 2011 at 19:06
mik

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Post #62
New rear badge next to old one...

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 20th Sep 2011 at 19:06
mik

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Post #63
And finally I spent another 2 days or so chiseling, scraping and sanding off the rust under the car and treating it with Bilt Hamber Deox Gel. The BH stuff is definitely more effective than the Hammerite rust gel. I painted the cleaned up metal with Bilt Hamber Electrox zinc primer, which provides cathodic protection corrosion protection similar to galvanising as the zinc is a sacrificial anode that corrodes before the steel.

After another coat of Electrox it will be over-coated with satin black and I am thinking about over-paintable stone chip stuff in the recesses behind the wheels. Now to get the rear wheel arch liners off and clean up the arches when I've got some more time.

Got a call from daveyboy - my new subframe is all finished. I will be picking it up next week to replace the rust-coloured one on the Rallye.



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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 20th Sep 2011 at 19:11
walker_texasranger

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Post #64
mik wrote:
...and leftover bits at the end. I could not get the head unit to lock into place with the Autoleads 306 filler plate installed, but have now realised that it needs to be installed before the cage is put in, not after. So when I can be bothered removing it all again and unbending the cage (I made a really good job of getting it in there bending tabs etc) I may reinstall it. Though it actually looks quite good without it.

The left-over wires are for the speaker wires - completely superfluous. Others have gone further and deleted the similar power loom by inserting the 2 wires to feed the Autoleads black box directly into the vehicle's loom. This is neater, but the patch lead is designed to be plug and play at the expense of a bunch of extra wires.


I have never used a fascia adaptor with aftermarket HU's, I think (and reading above, it would seem, do you) that they look miles better without.

Nice thread, you certainly don't miss anything out when you write stuff up! Must take you ages LOL

________________________________________

Almost standard 1999 Bianca Rallye
Hilux InvincibleX daily

306 No.13 Doh

Carp and specialist Anglers Click here
Posted 22nd Sep 2011 at 02:53
russbez

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Post #65
get more pictures involved
nice write up though

________________________________________

TEAM HIGH BOOST SUPERCHARGED RALLYE

My Rallye project thread
Posted 22nd Sep 2011 at 09:00
willow

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Post #66
Great read this one, thanks for posting. I've just bought a cherry Rallye too, and I'm looking to do a few similar jobs to you, so will be following this with interest!
Posted 22nd Sep 2011 at 21:33
cjm_harris

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Post #67
I don't think most of your pictures are working? Dunno


Like this for example:

mik wrote:
New rear badge next to old one...

________________________________________

Chris
1999 China Gti6 Supercharged Devil [Fun car] >>Project Thread<<
2000 Bianca 306 Diesel [Work runabout]
Posted 23rd Sep 2011 at 11:10
xsi_lew

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Post #68
looking nice mate, if i see you around bristol ill give you a toot!
Posted 23rd Sep 2011 at 12:36
mik

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Post #69
cjm_harris wrote:
I don't think most of your pictures are working? Dunno


Like this for example:

mik wrote:
New rear badge next to old one...


Sorted now - got myself a photobucket account. The old way of attaching photos (attachment box under text when writing post) no longer seems to work.

Thanks all for comments - any feedback gratefully received.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 23rd Sep 2011 at 16:17
willow

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Post #70
I've just fitted a set of those same Alpine SXE1725S speakers in to my parcel shelf as the standard ones were just making a wet waffly farting noise. The Alpines sound good and went in very easily, even using the standard plugs, so I've ordered another set to go in the doors. They certainly are very good value at just over £50 for a car's worth of new speakers.
Posted 23rd Sep 2011 at 22:14
mik

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Post #71
This weekend I've been continuing painting underneath at the back, and have made a start on the LH rear wheelarch.

Every time I think I can put the top coat on I find something else to sort, would be easier to see underneath if I still had access to the hoist, but I've changed jobs now.

The wheel arch is not bad at all, some small patches of rust and quite a bit of flaking paint. I attacked it with the drill with the wire brush and more paint was loose than I thought:



I've wire brushed it and washed it down, and will continue tomorrow night after work. It was pretty good but there were a couple of very small random patches of surface rust right up on the inner wing by the C pillar...



And I got a second hand spare tyre bracket (mine was too corroded to refurbish) and put Bilt Hamber Deox Gel on it and covered it with cling film and left it for 2 days. After a wire brushing and rinsing it looks pretty good, the Deox gel is quite effective. I'll paint it at the same time as I sort the wheel arches etc.



I took the car for a drive today, it hadn't been driven since sometime in August. I'd run the battery down and recharged it with a trickle charger from Halfords. It was £24, and I would have got one off the net for £10.95, but I was in the area and it would have meant a trip to the post office to pick up a parcel anyway, so I just bought it. Halfords is bleeding expensive - usually twice the price you could get it elsewhere. The trickle charger, and other recent examples such as the stereo fascia surround at £15 in Halfords vs £4 off the net for an identical part, and Alpine SXE1725S speakers RRP £29.95, Halfords price £59.95!

Anyway, the first bit of the drive, going to meet some people for lunch - only a 10 mile return trip, was awful. The car felt horrible and was making lots of noises (I knew that some of them resulted from only using 4 bolts instead of 6-8 when hastily reattaching the rear bumper to display the number plate, as the bolts holding the number plate on are corroded). When we got home I took it for a drive to see if that would improve things, and it did - the odd noises from the front disappeared, but the brakes were binding and took a bit to get working properly and there was a bit of smoke/smell at first. It was almost back to its normal self by the end of the drive, but the clonking from the rear was definitely worse.

I know cars don't like being inactive, but I was surprised at the extra noises after less than 2 months sitting idle, might rethink SORNing it over winter, and I think it will need brake work for the MoT in Jan.





________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 2nd Oct 2011 at 21:24
mik

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Post #72
Spent the last 3 nights prepping and painting the rear wheelarches in red over the top of Bilt Hamber Electrox. I'm doing it outside as there is not quite enough room in the garage.

I've put the first coat of black on the boot floor underside, and a coat of red in the wheelarches and across the back under the bumper (the paint was lifting an places across the edge so wire brushed it to get rid of loose paint, and primed and painted it. It started raining which was a bit irritating, but luckily most of the paint didn't get wet as it was underneath.

The wheel arch lips had slightly flaking paint - sanded back to sound paint and is now all covered in zinc primer and red paint. Will need to sand back and touch up though.

Before:



After:



A couple of other shots - paint looks brighter due to flash and is still wet:







________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 5th Oct 2011 at 20:28
mik

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Post #73
Uploaded some pics in edited post above.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 6th Oct 2011 at 22:02
coskev

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Location: Oswestry

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Post #74
Looking goodCool

Coming to the time of year when I did mine last yearNo not nice outsideThumbs down

________________________________________

Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........

Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress.
Posted 6th Oct 2011 at 22:36
mik

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Post #75
Not too bad outside yet, but getting dark earlier is cramping my style a bit trying to fit it in after getting home from work.

Anyway, got some more work done today.

I wanted to change the steering wheel for the leather version and while it was dismantled I thought I'd sort out the radio stalk, and install the aluminium dial surrounds I got from the Tuning Shop.



Not everything went to plan, but the end result was OK all things considered. The steering wheel was duly installed and I managed to do it without setting the airbag off, mainly by using BTDTs from this forum, especially in the FAQs, very helpful indeed.



The stalk issue was after installing an Autoleads stalk adaptor to work with my Blaupunkt San Francisco 300, it worked after a fashion, but irritatingly changes the station when releasing the stalk after altering the volume. I bought another stalk for £7 as I thought (and confirmed from people on here) that it was due to a faulty stalk, worn contacts etc. The "new" stalk exhibited all the same tendencies; it was similar but wiring slightly different. I then experimented with cutting wires and changing them around to see if I could improve things, even if I could et the volume alone to work consistently I could live with that. Worth a try anyway. While I did get it to work better, it was inconsistent and after switching the radio off and on again, it would revert to changing the station and volume at the same time. Eventually I removed the stalk and the adaptor completely (very easy to do), as I don't like having things that don't work in the car and it is not strictly necessary anyway. However, I will keep it and if I happen upon a way to make it work properly I may reinstall it.

The ally dial surrounds from http://www.tuning-shop.co.uk/peugeot-9702-chrome-dial-surrounds-rings-brushed-alloy-p-857.html?cPath=20_119 were installed after completely removing the instrument cluster using the FAQs on here. The plugs at the back with the lever that needs to be pivoted to release the plug were something I've never seen before and took a while to work out - really easy to use once you know how though. I got the cluster apart and the large circular ally rings for the big rev counter and speedo dials went in OK but quite fiddly as there was not much of a lip to bend to hold it in place as instructed. Certainly it took about 10 times longer than as shown on the Tuning Shop video. The ally surrounds for the smaller dials (water and oil temp) did not quite fit properly as they were a little too short top to bottom and the bottom curves for the flat bit weren't quite right and didn't match the shape of the dial. They may well fit a subtly different 306 dash (there are pics on the Tuning Shop website of the surrounds properly installed on a P2/3 306 - maybe there is more than one type of instrument cluster? - or maybe a different batch of product) but what I can say for sure is these ones definitely did not fit mine. After a bit of thinking I decided to install the ones for the large dials and leave it at that. I think it looks OK, and gives a bit of a lift to the standard dash.

As a general point some of the access for screws etc was a bit difficult, and the bendy thing in the photo came in handy.



And everything actually worked when I got it back together! And it looks pretty good. I am going for an OEM+ look, with the ally bling on the dials and P3 gearknob matching nicely. All I need is an ally handbrake button now.

I also installed the right B-pillar black sticky stuff and nice new rubber mouldings along the bottom of the window on each side as the originals were bubbled from the metal strip inside corroding.



And I sorted some small patches of lifting paint under the lights and hatch.



I'll post a pic of the end result tomorrow, as it was getting dark when I finished.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 9th Oct 2011 at 00:37

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