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Author Subject: Mik's Rallye
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #26

My window relay demister question

[EDIT - incorrect green relay replaced with correct orange relay (10 min delay type) and all fixed]

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 2nd May 2011 at 21:05
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

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Post #27
I borrowed a wet vac and went to work on the interior which was very dirty. The pic is the second, much cleaner, bucket of water I got out of the interior - the first was almost liquid mud.

The door cards needed a lot of work with ingrained grime in the black cloth, but they came up a treat, as did the rest of the interior.

mik has attached the following image:

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 16th May 2011 at 17:50
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

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Post #28
I also did a bit of troubleshooting on the rear wiper motor. The relay looks fine - I took the blue cover off and there is no sign of anything amiss.

I then attempted some electrical troubleshooting by connecting the motor to a 12v supply elsewhere in the car, and ended up blowing a fuse. Either the motor is seized (a lot of corrosion on the spindle) or it drew more than 5A. I've decided it is probably best not to use that method for troubleshooting unless I want to fry the rest of the electrics.

The other two possibilities are that the wiring has a break (nothing obvious under the boots at the top of the hatch) or the stalk switch is not working. I'm just discovering the joys of 12-year-old French electrics.

As related in rear demister thread, it now works perfectly now the correct orange relay is installed. For some reason there was a green one in there as used for several other applications that was not the correct 10 min delay type.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 19th Jun 2011 at 19:06
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

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Post #29
Got cam belt and water pump changed - used genuine parts from ebay, actually came from Peugeot dealer. Got a friend of a friend to do the work and now I can drive it without fretting about how it is due a cam belt.

The broken rear rear wiper arm and (non-working?) motor has been temporarily replaced with a 20mm grommet. I will get the motor tested and replace if necessary. Otherwise it will be the wiring or the stalk.

The driver's door check strap is done as well - I used the superb FAQ on here which was a huge help. Excellent service from '306breaker' on ebay.

Some of these tricky little things to get stuff apart are different from what I'm used to.

A key one is that, being a Rallye it has manual window winders. To remove the winder it looks as though a cover needs to be prised off. But no, it is a dummy, you simply pull the winder straight off as it is a press fit on a splined alloy bit (see pic).



mik has attached the following image:

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 22nd Jun 2011 at 05:23
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #30
Just got back after weekend away. Rallye is a brilliant B-road piece of kit, and not too bad on motorway either. Really enjoyed driving it, but not hugely economical petrol consumption!

Hole in dash now filled by a Blaupunkt San Francisco 300

bought used from a mate, has front USB + ipod (see USB lead plugged in on right of pic) and rear aux input which is handy, and I like the fact it has 4096 different colours so now matches the orange dash lighting. Looks are understated - blingy silver head units IMHO don't look great with the 306's '90s sober black dash. Sounds good too, and some upgraded speakers are on the way that fit in factory door mounts.

I got an Autoleads head unit surround from ebay and complete with removal keys for £4.00 new - exactly the same item Halfords charges £15 for - but without the removal keys!!) It is OK but does not perfectly match the aperture - it needs heating up and bending in slightly at the left hand end. The P3 factory surround looks a lot better, I might look for one of those.

EDIT: I've worked out this is because the radio is not secure in the aperture, hence it sticks out slightly at the bottom. I need to look at the cage and ensure it can't move. This will make the Autoleads aperture surround match the gap much better. I ditched the Autoleads piece and got an OE 306 Phase 3 surround trimmed to fit. Looks way better - see page 8?

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 6th Oct 2014 at 21:53
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

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Post #31
Spent some hours with the car on the hoist today. Cleaned up and painted nearly all floorpan surface rust with POR-15. There is only the odd bit that I can sort without needing a hoist, but another session in the next few weeks should sort it. My boot floor is pretty good, where there was plenty of rust was near the front on the chassis rails either side of the exhaust tunnel (see pic), and on the cross-members just behind the front wheel arches. A bit of work with a chisel there removed a lot of dodgy underseal that concealed a lot of surface rust underneath.Having put POR-15 on I will overcoat it with Chassis Black paint from the same manufacturer for a satin rather than gloss look. The surface is not actually as pitted as it looks in the pic - that is dried stuff off the road. [EDIT - see comments about POR-15 performance later in thread]

There was an impressive pile of old underseal and rusty debris on the workshop floor after I had finished!

Had a quick drive afterwards during a brief shower of rain, had a slight "moment" and have truly discovered that the near-new "Doublestar" (cheap Chinese brand) tyres the PO put on the car are absolute rubbish in the wet. To be fair he did say they were not all that great but they are very squirmy under heavy braking and the ABS kicks in but with little discernible slowing down. These tyres grip the road about as well as a politician holds onto reality. I will replace them with something decent as soon as possible.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 22nd Jun 2011 at 05:26
ben.cashmore

Junior User

Location: Worcester

Registered: 04 Jul 2007

Posts: 78

Status: Offline

Post #32
I've got an XSi just outside Ciren with a working rear wiper if you want to try anything, it is just sitting there rotting at the moment, with the intention of scrapping it quite soon!
Posted 16th Jun 2011 at 02:55
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

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Post #33
PM sent.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 16th Jun 2011 at 03:38
mik

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Registered: 17 Feb 2011

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Post #34
Got some Alpine SXE-1725S speakers from Thugpuggin last week and finally managed to install them today in the front. The rears are still factory - for now.

Very easy to fit, dropped straight in and plugged to factory wiring (though with separate connectors instead of factory plug - larger terminal goes to red +ive and narrower one goes to -ive). These speakers are available for £28 - £30 at various retailers such as http://www.caraudiodorect.co.uk, or if you want to pay double that for the same thing you can always pay £59.99 at Halfords

An Alpine SXE1725S review is very comprehensive and rates them very highly for the price. I agree with the findings in the review that they are a big step up from the factory speakers. They are 40W RMS/200W max which matches well with the head unit I've chosen, and is double that of the 20W RMS factory speakers, which sound very "muddy" and indistinct in comparison, though they actually sounded kind of OK before I swapped them. Initially the Alpines sounded quite "bright" and lacking in bass, but turning up the volume and playing with the treble/bass settings largely cured that, and the extra detail and depth of sound is amazing for the price and the use of the factory speaker enclosures.

The extra power now shows up some buzzing when on high volume from the door cards or something in there. It could possibly be the fact that there are only 3 screws and there is space for a fourth opposite the top right one as can be seen in the pic - the bottom half of the speaker is not screwed down at all due to screw spacing. I will experiment and see if the buzzing decreases with another screw in there (a hole will need to be drilled in door skin). At the very least it will mean that there is even pressure applied all the way around the speaker circumference, as currently there is a gap at the bottom due to spacing of screws.

Despite this the Alpine SXE-1725S speakers definitely enable the Blaupunkt head unit to perform more to its potential, and it all sounds good. Highly recommended for anyone who wants an economical but effective upgrade for factory speakers.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 22nd Jun 2011 at 05:34
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

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Post #35
Factory speakers before removal...

Photos added to some posts above as well.

mik has attached the following image:

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 19th Jun 2011 at 18:48
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

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Post #36
Thanks to Ben Cashmore I got a rear wiper motor today. After 2 weeks of soaking in release fluid I managed to get it off the donor vehicle.

Trial fitted it just now and it works a treat. It is a P2 version with the washing water nozzle going through the spindle (from a R-reg car), whereas my car has the later P2.5 - P3 separate top-mounted washer by the rear spoiler that fires downwards onto the rear screen. No problems though - I simply unclipped the water hose and the wiring and mounting points etc are the same. The only thing that will need to be done to allow fitment of the wiper arm is to cut about 6mm off the spindle so it is the same length as the later original one that it replaced, allowing the wiper arm to fit over it.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 2nd Jul 2011 at 22:57
matt evans

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Location: Stourbridge

Registered: 16 Sep 2009

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Post #37
Good review on the alpine speakers Mik. Mine are due an upgrade soon, like you i don't want to go OTT with ice fitment.

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1999 Astor Grey GTi-6 OEM+ (now gone...)
2004 Aegean Blue 206 GTi 180 (also gone...)
2006 Skoda Fabia vRS in Sprint Yellow

honestly3k wrote:
Do you wrestle for a living matt? You sound like a monster LOL


owain wrote:
Nothing involving a 306 can be considered worthwhile.

Posted 3rd Jul 2011 at 01:41
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

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Post #38
While stuck in traffic on the M4 last Fri I noticed a slight noise as I let out the clutch each time. Attempting to move the engine by hand produced excessive engine movement so it looks like a fubared upper mount.

So I'm in for the group buy on the General forum!

At the sme time I will take other advice I got on this forum and, while replacing engine mounts, will swap my very rusty subframe with a nicely painted seam welded subframe - that I am yet to source. I'm starting to look into it now.

I am on leave the whole of Aug so I intend to make some progress on the car.

Next week at work I will change engine and gearbox oil, as well as tackling some of the engine bay surface rust if I can get the front bumper off beforehand.

Went to Swindon Peugeot dealer Fish Brothers yesterday to get some bits - 2 guys in there own Rallyes so had a chat to one of them.

Still waiting on new rear wiper blade so will fit the working rear wiper motor when that arrives.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 16th Jul 2011 at 21:47
atterz

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Location: Stafford

Registered: 18 Feb 2011

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Post #39
Leave, you army? O and lovely Rallye btw!

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owain wrote:
A GTI-6 with a good dashboard and the seats down can outsprint an E46 M3 in July.
Posted 16th Jul 2011 at 23:53
mik

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Post #40
Thanks!

Was in the garage this afternoon doing a few bits and happened to look underneath the car, and got some grease on my hand from the wheelarch. Hmm, looked a bit more and saw it sprayed around the arch.

Put my hand around the CV boot and pulled it out absolutely covered in grease. So either the boot has come adrift or it has split or torn. Will have a better look when I get it out of the garage. Will be on hoist on Wed to change engine and gearbox oil - better not drive it too far to warm the oil up though!!!

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 17th Jul 2011 at 02:05
mik

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Post #41
Did a gearbox and engine oil change today.

Read the FAQ on here and then took the car over to work...and undid some retaining bolt on the gearbox instead of the correct drain plug. Note to self: print off the instructions next time and refer to them before undoing anything. Well oil came out of it but only one litre or so and it didn't look like a drain plug once undone - it had a really long thread on it. Luckily I got it back in OK and it wasn't holding some critical part in position inside the gearbox, or if it was it did not fall inside when the bolt was undone - could have been an expensive mistake! I refilled the gearbox with the whole 2 litre container of oil but nothing came out the level plug on the side of the gearbox. But the factory quantity is 2.1 litres and there will be at least 100mls of oil clinging to the inside of the box so I can't see the point of putting more in - and yes the car was level. Might ring Pug tomorrow to check though, just in case. I used Total BV 75w80 from a Pug dealer. Definitely feels smoother now even though the stuff that came out wasn't that dirty.

I changed the engine oil with Total fully-synthetic 5w30, which is probably a bit thin but OK for now and I wanted to use fully synthetic. For the future I will use 5w40 synthetic, probably Castrol.

I was going to recoat my POR-15 painting on the underside. There were some rusty water droplets from the rusty subframe but looking closer in some places the rust was actually coming through the POR-15! The only explanations I can think of is that more than one coat is required as it is thin to penetrate into the rust, and/or that as POR-15 depends on being non-porous and specifically states not to shake it but to stir it instead (yeah I know, just like James Bond's martini before anyone else says it - schplendid Mish Moneypenny) - but I read that bit _after_ the paint was dry and so I think I might have caused bubbles in the paint allowing air to get at the rust. It is only in a couple of areas at the front where the rust was most aggressive, and either way I will scrape and sand it right back back to mostly shiny metal and recoat taking care not to shake it this time.

Finally I managed to get the rear wiper working. I installed the Ph1 / 2 motor after cutting 6mm off the (longer, water-dispensing) spindle so it would fit under the (non-water-dispensing) P3 wiper arm, and installed brand new arm and blade. Works a treat now but I took care to properly lube all the metal parts - spindle, alloy bush on the arm to stop it corroding on and even the wiper arm spring as a lot of road muck ends up there. At first it was making a high-pitched electrical whine sound which was even audible over the radio, but I persevered and after about 3 minutes continuous operation the noise stopped. Result.

I finally had a good look at the driveshaft gaiter and it is not actually holed or torn; the metal ring that retains it on the larger (wheel) side is gone, it has simply disappeared and the boot is sitting there not doing a very good job of keeping the grease in. Do these things make a bid for freedom often?? It is booked in on Fri to sort it and I got a boot kit for 18 from the dealer. Since I've got it I will get the new boot installed anyway, as if I don't replace it, I'm sure it would develop a hole next week.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 9th Aug 2011 at 05:30
honestly3k

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Location: Berkhamsted

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Post #42
Ive had two gearbox oil changes in 3K miles and between each change ive not noticed any improvement in gear change - still notchy Sad

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''Oh, it does handle like a golf!'' Why drive a Golf....when you can drive a GTi-6?
Posted 21st Jul 2011 at 03:58
Lecktorious

aka G.

Location: Edinburgh

Registered: 08 Jan 2009

Posts: 920

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Post #43
Don't think mine had been done at all in it's 47k - difference was night and day!

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'98 Nile Blue 306 GTi 6
Posted 21st Jul 2011 at 04:16
mik

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Post #44
Called Peugeot today just to be sure about the gearbox capacity as no oil came out the level hole when I drained it and added 2 lites of new oil (the FAQ on this site suggests if the oil does not come out the level hole you can put up to 2.5 litres in there).

The Peugeot advice was to fill the gearbox with 2 litres only.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 22nd Jul 2011 at 06:40
mik

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Registered: 17 Feb 2011

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Post #45
Spent the day on the car today and got the rear bumper off. And I only managed one bloodletting incident when pliers slipped and pinched some skin on my hand. Top tip - hold pliers correctly. I was using them to undo the screws at the bottom of the bumper that connect the arch liner and the bumper as no driver would get them out - so corroded I couldn't tell whether it was a hex or torx head!

I used the excellent FAQ on here, but what wasn't included was the plastic plug on each side were the bumper meets the wheelarch which is accessed after the arch liner is removed (which I hadn't removed as per the FAQ). I managed to push them out with a screwdriver and only broke one of them. They seem superfluous to me and won't be going back on. [EDIT: Yes they will as the top corners of the bumper do not sit quite right without them] With 8 10mm bolts, 2 press studs and 2 screws to hold the bumper on, the designers were clearly pretty determined to make sure it wasn't going to fall off.

One of the 2 10mm bolts at the bottom lip sheared, but I managed to cut the captive nut off with a hacksaw and get the remains of the bolt out of the hole. I'll get another captive nut attached.

Taking Coskev's tip I got some non-drip "Poppy" red enamel from Wickes that is almost an exact match for Peugeot Cherry Red (though Coskev didn't specify the brand). It is a better match than Halfords' Cherry Red touch up paint! The Rover metallic grey touch-up paint to match the same colour the previous owner painted the wheels is also too dark, to make sure it was not my imagination I painted some on the pack where it shows the colour of the paint and the actual paint is much darker than the supposed colour on the outside of the pack - same with the Cherry Red.

I got a intact front bumper (to replace my cracked one) and OE airbox from Thugpuggin last night, so now I just need to find a decent painter in the Bristol area. I will do as much of the prep work as possible to save a few quid.

I've also ordered a rear aux lead to connect an iPhone/iPod to the head unit and a patch lead so I can use the remote stalk. And I got some aero wiper blades from ebay for £6 delivered today.

Here is what greeted me when I got he bumper off at last. The paintwork is pretty good, with a slight bit of paint lifting along the lower edge and on some spot welds that has been sanded back and treated, and will be primed tomorrow.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 10th Aug 2011 at 15:38
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

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Post #46
The hole is where trim clip (similar to wheel arch type but with smaller head) was attached either side - fiendishly difficult to get at!

mik has attached the following image:

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 10th Aug 2011 at 15:34
mik

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Post #47
Just visible is the end of the broken-off bolt.

mik has attached the following image:

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 10th Aug 2011 at 15:35
mik

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Registered: 17 Feb 2011

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Post #48
Nice blaze bumper from Thugpuggin - will sand back and get painted along with bonnet in due course...

mik has attached the following image:

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 10th Aug 2011 at 15:36
mik

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Registered: 17 Feb 2011

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Post #49
Spent some hours today scraping off more rust in areas exposed by removing the rear bumper. I also scraped the POR-15 off where I'd previously applied it as rust started showing through it.

I also noted that, as the instructions say(!), it does not adhere at all well to painted surfaces. On the underside of the car where there are painted bits next to rusty bits, it requires a bit of care.

The way I will deal with this is to reduce the rust so it is almost bare metal, using wire brush and coarse sandpaper on paintred and rusty surfaces. I'll paint the rusty bits with the normal POR-15, and then paint over all of it with "Chassis Coat Black", also from POR-15, which can be applied directly to painted and unpainted surfaces and is non-porous and impervious to UV light (not that there is much of that under a car). It is also a satin finish which will look good - the normal POR-15 rust paint is gloss, and it fades if exposed to UV light.

A bloke at work looked at me doing all this covered in rusty muck and said - "I haven't got the patience for that". At times I think he's got a point!!

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 11th Aug 2011 at 01:21
coskev

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Location: Oswestry

Registered: 01 Nov 2009

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Post #50
Coming alongSmile

Good write up on what your doingCool

Have read that Por15 is abit funny on clean/new metal or painted surfaces when researching what paint to use on my Rallye and EvoWink
Rust Bullet that I have used can be painted on ANY surfaceBig grin concrete,wood,whatever you want and it sticks to it and goes off very hardWink

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Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........

Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress.
Posted 11th Aug 2011 at 04:04

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