displaying posts 76 to 100 of 408

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Author Subject: Mik's Rallye
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #76
Clear side repeaters...



...and new-look cockpit with leather wheel, new P3 gearknob, ally instrument bezels.

Before:



After:



That concludes the cosmetic additions.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 9th Oct 2011 at 13:52
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #77
Close-up photo of clocks with new bezels...

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 10th Oct 2011 at 20:33
ballardpaul

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Location: Croydon

Registered: 22 Jul 2008

Posts: 4,135

Status: Offline

Post #78
Think phase 3 clocks would look a lot nicer with the bezels. Only £30 for a set.

________________________________________

Phase 2 Blaze GTi 6 (Standard) Sold
Phase 3 Supercharged China GTi 6 (249.8 BHP) Sold
Phase 3 Supercharged Diablo GTi 6 (443 BHP)Sold
Nissan 350Z (300 BHP)
Posted 11th Oct 2011 at 14:22
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #79
The P3 clocks would look good, though the P2 dark grey contrasting with the ally looks good too.

I ordered new Pug beam mounts and rear box heat shield today.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 18th Oct 2011 at 21:37
russbez

Seasoned Pro

Location: Inverness-Shire

Registered: 19 Dec 2005

Posts: 7,458

Status: Offline

Post #80
mik wrote:
No, it was someone in Golspie, 50 miles north of Inverness.


hehe i think i know the one!!

________________________________________

TEAM HIGH BOOST SUPERCHARGED RALLYE

My Rallye project thread
Posted 28th Oct 2011 at 12:53
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #81
You know anything about it? Would be interested in any info.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 30th Oct 2011 at 20:46
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #82
Got the airbag light flashing yesterday. But thanks to the excellent FAQ on here, I found the connectors under the seats, unplugged and re-plugged the connectors a few times to improve connections, then squirted in some Gibbs Brand (kind of an upmarket WD40), plugged them back in and the light has gone out, and it is behaving itself now, touch wood. I'm also going around and unplugging all the connectors, cleaning them out and spraying them as the wetter weather will result in moisture which could make dodgy contacts play up.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 30th Oct 2011 at 20:52
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #83
Finished off painting the boot floor not covered by the rear box yesterday, now to remove back box, paint the rest of the boot floor after treating any surface rust, and then start the front arches/engine bay etc.

Waiting for rear axle bushes, brake calipers together with nice new bolts, nuts etc to turn up so can get the sticky calipers and knackered axle bushes sorted.

I've also got a new heat shield and nuts for the exhaust back box. I've been spraying the heat shield nuts with release fluid for months - hoping to get them off without shearing the studs.

Can anyone advise on the proper technique for removing the rear box so I can get to the heat shield? Tools that will make it easier? The exhaust was replaced 6 months ago so should not be too difficult, but I've not removed/replaced exhaust bits before.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 6th Nov 2011 at 21:46
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

Status: Offline

Post #84
Oxy/Acetylene for heating up the slip joint between the two sections helps if they are siezed together Wink

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 9th Nov 2011 at 18:37
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

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Post #85
Hopefully it won't come to that! It is still shiny and I'm spraying it in release fluid to do the heat shield before I get the beam mounts replaced.

I'm still waiting for bits from Pug - I decided to put new nuts and bolts on when replacing new beam bushes, and it is taking a while for Pug to get them. I might need rebuilt calipers as the rear brakes don't seem to work too well - discs very corroded even on the braking faces. Will check compensator as well. Last week got a hot brake smell coming from the front right wheel, which was much hotter to touch than the other three, so a few things to fix.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 16th Nov 2011 at 23:33
walker_texasranger

Seasoned Pro

Location: Sunny Retford

Registered: 26 Jan 2008

Posts: 2,502

Status: Offline

Post #86
Mik, got to say I love your work but I'm not keen on those clocks No got to agree with ballbag Paul here, some phase 3 clocks or even just white needles would lift those dials no end. It looks like its trying to an Audi LOL

If you like it though, that's what counts Thumbs up

Steering wheel is a massive improvement!

________________________________________

Almost standard 1999 Bianca Rallye
Hilux InvincibleX daily

306 No.13 Doh

Carp and specialist Anglers Click here
Posted 17th Nov 2011 at 04:01
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #87
Thanks for the feedback. The flash photo makes the bezels look a lot more prominent than they actually are - they are not chrome (which would be well OTT), they are matt finish similar to the gearknob, steering wheel lion and handbrake button (I've yet to source the handbrake). I was going for the coordination effect with the other bits.

I'm also going to get a poverty-spec steering wheel cowling to get rid of the hole for the remote stalk (that I deleted earlier).

Pug has got all my rear beam mount bits now, they will be delivered next week then I'll look at getting them fitted to hopefully get rid of the clonking.

Anyone got recommendations for a decent garage in Bristol? There is a place called Bristol 2CVs not too far from my work on t'internet which claims to specialise in French cars. Anyone in Brizzle know it/have any opinion on it?

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 20th Nov 2011 at 14:00
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #88
Got the brand new Pug beam mounts, heat shield, rear disc protectors (to be painted before fitting), associated bolts and a light stalk yesterday. Also found the part numbers on here for the rear shock eyelet bushes that I'll order to get rid of all possible causes of the rear beam clonking.

Last night I went for a drive to try and keep my sticky brakes at bay and noticed toward the end of the drive that the exhaust was getting louder - a bit odd considering I got a new Klarius system just after I got the car that has only been on there for 8 months and 3000 miles.

When I had a look under the car I was expecting to see a join or clamp adrift. What I saw was this:







The entire box seems to be distorting and splitting along the seam due to the heat, and the rattle I can hear will be the baffles inside. I've never seen an exhaust box do this before. It looks completely f***ed to me.

Luckily it is still under warranty.

I might get a quote from Pug as I didn't think the price for the Klarius was at all cheap.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 27th Nov 2011 at 14:15
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #89
Went to Kwik Fit and got the "manager is not back until Tues " response to my request for a credit or OE replacement.

However, to give them their due they were more polite and helpful than expected. They even said that they would replace the entire cat-back system under warranty (instead of the centre box only) in case something from the disintegrated middle box had gone into the rear. They said they had only seen one box do that before. There are two suppliers they use (both owned by the same Klarius/Timax/Arvin company I suspect). I asked for a better quality one as I did not like the initial one even before it failed. I'll see what eventuates. Still got 2 1/2 years on the warranty - will see how many I get through.

Got a quote from Pug though - OE centre box was slightly cheaper than a pattern part from Kwik Fit - lesson learned. I should flame myself for going there in the first place.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 2nd Dec 2011 at 20:54
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

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Post #90
Oh and in separate news I have painted the new rear box heat shield and rear disc protectors in Electrox with a coat of high-temp silver over the top.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 2nd Dec 2011 at 20:55
mik

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Post #91
Made some progress today.

I removed the exhaust rear box and started the careful job of removing the rear hanger mount (visible top left corner of first pic) and the heat shield.

I used Daveyboy's tips for removing corroded nuts/bolts/screws and got all 5 off without snapping anything! The technique was to spray release fluid on the bolts several times over a few weeks, and then attempt to start them using gentle persuasion with a socket. Once they started moving I would wind them back in again, and then out again. More release fluid to get to the bits of freshly exposed thread and do something else for an hour or so. I'd basically repeat these steps, never applying too much force, until I got it out. The fact most of these are subject to heat when the car is running might have meant they are not as badly seized as other bolts. I learned my lesson after breaking a seized bolt when removing the rear bumper. I was lucky that particular one was an easy fix so I am a bit less ham-fisted now.

The old ( c)rusty heat shield. It actually could have been cleaned up but don't really have the time to spend hours on this as well so was simpler to get a nice new part from Pug and means the car is off the road for a shorter time.



And what was underneath when I got it off. A bit of surface rust but nothing major:



Thanks to tips from Daveyboy and Coskev, I got one of these sanding discs. If only I'd had these when doing the rest of the boot floor - they go through rust and paint like a knife through butter. Much more effective than the rotary wire brush just visible by the Kit Kat cup.



Hope to finish cleaning up the bits to get the new painted heat shield on in time for the new exhaust on Mon.


________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 8th Dec 2011 at 18:25
mik

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Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

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Post #92
Ground the rest of the rust off the left side of the boot floor, two costs of Kurust, sanded back then just now got a coat of Bilt Hamber Electrox zinc primer on it.

No pics of it now but if you want to know what it looks like hold a mirror up to the pic in post no 63 and imagine the heat shield studs on the cross-member.

Electrox more difficult to apply with a good finish in lower temps, and it is taking longer to go off.

Tomorrow's programme is another coat of Electrox, then 2 coats of Chassis Black, then new heat shield and rear box fitted up, then off for a warranty replacement exhaust on Mon.

Electrox did well in the Practical Classics one-year test out in the elements according to the latest copy of the mag.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 10th Dec 2011 at 20:24
matt evans

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Location: Stourbridge

Registered: 16 Sep 2009

Posts: 2,290

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Post #93
You cant go wrong with the Bilt hamber stuff IMO. Use a hot air gun to flash it off and speed up drying if its too cold

________________________________________

1999 Astor Grey GTi-6 OEM+ (now gone...)
2004 Aegean Blue 206 GTi 180 (also gone...)
2006 Skoda Fabia vRS in Sprint Yellow

honestly3k wrote:
Do you wrestle for a living matt? You sound like a monster LOL


owain wrote:
Nothing involving a 306 can be considered worthwhile.

Posted 10th Dec 2011 at 21:09
russbez

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Location: Inverness-Shire

Registered: 19 Dec 2005

Posts: 7,458

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Post #94
mik wrote:
You know anything about it? Would be interested in any info.


yeh sorry, not much mate just know it as it used to have odd wheels, nice lad though?

hes a mechanic and was at mine once looking at my rallye when i had loom issues with my car

________________________________________

TEAM HIGH BOOST SUPERCHARGED RALLYE

My Rallye project thread
Posted 19th Dec 2011 at 16:03
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #95
Thank you both for the info.

Have new exhaust and replaced heat shield, de-rusted and painted rest of boot floor under heat shield. MOT booked for 10 Jan, and new rear axle mounts will be installed at the same time. More pics to follow when back from hols.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 20th Dec 2011 at 06:47
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #96
Back from holiday last night. Thought I'd better fire it up and make sure it would go OK on Tues morning.

The LR tyre was completely flat - pumped it up and seems OK for now. Will check tomorrow.

I checked the rear brake compensator valve - it moves freely but the pivot is broken on one side, but it seems to work as it should. Probably could do with replacing though.

Again the brakes were sticky moving it out of the garage, after not being driven for 3 weeks. Handbrake is always left off in the garage. Took it for a spin - yet again it stinks and smokes a bit at the front and the front hubs are warm to the touch after a fairly short drive. It seems to sort itself out after being driven a few days in a row, but 3 weeks of inactivity and it is seized up again.

I've got some reconditioned calipers for the rear for fitting up on Tuesday, together with new discs and pads. Might need front ones as well at this rate.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 8th Jan 2012 at 21:08
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #97
I dropped it off for its MoT this morning. No major issues I'm told, but needs a new brake compensator and handbrake cables. I've bitten the bullet and ordered a new compensator and cables from Pug. It also needs new rear discs, pads and rebuilt calipers, as I'd foreseen above.

I thought the front calipers might be an issue (smoking/binding etc above) but the garage said they seemed to be working OK now. Just need to drive the car more now to keep them free I guess!

New rear axle mounts being installed at the same time.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 10th Jan 2012 at 22:43
atterz

Seasoned Pro

Location: Stafford

Registered: 18 Feb 2011

Posts: 1,134

Status: Offline

Post #98
Take the front calipers off, grease the sliders up, copper slip up anywhere that can seize and check the seals. My DT hasnt moved in over a year however, having done the above they never ever seize on, smoke etc! (6 Brakes btw)

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owain wrote:
A GTI-6 with a good dashboard and the seats down can outsprint an E46 M3 in July.
Posted 11th Jan 2012 at 15:18
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #99
Thanks, will do that.

Ordered new rear brake comp and handbrake cables from Pug, not arrived yet. Hopefully to be fitted on Mon and looking forward to getting her back with a much tighter rear end I hope!

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 13th Jan 2012 at 20:06
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

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Post #100
OK got the car back at last from the garage last night with a fresh MOT. I used 2CVs in Bristol and apparently there is a GTI-6 maintained there whose owner lives "over the bridge" in Bristol (wherever that is). According to the garage owner the GTI-6 he was talking about was a nice example with a lot of new genuine Pug stuff on it, shocks, springs etc. Owned by anyone on here?

The garage seemed OK and I'll probably go back.

He installed the new rear calipers, discs, pads and disc backing plates, as well as new beam mounts, brake compensator and handbrake cables. All the stuff came from Pug except for calipers which were reconditioned and came off the internet for a reasonable price. I'll get £15 per caliper back for my old ones as long as I remember to send them back.

Before: nasty moth-eaten disc and disintegrating backing plate:



After: new disc, pads, backing plate, recon caliper (carrier still rusty as re-used - not part of recon caliper - will de-rust and paint these up soon)



New exhaust heat shield, caliper, backing plate:



As suspected the beam mounts were fubared. I got shock eyelet bushes replaced but the garage said they are a real pain to change and the labour doing it was close to the cost of a new pair of shocks which would be a lot quicker to fit. Replacing the compensator was a mare as the brake pipes were very hard to get apart. There are some replaced with copper now. The car drives a lot better after doing all that, the rear feels a lot more planted. The sticking front calipers seem to have fixed themselves, brakes work like a dream.

Soon I'm going to need to replace the near new but really nasty Doublestar tyres the PO put on it, but I'll leave that for a month or so.


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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 20th Jan 2012 at 16:04

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