There's a high-pressure dust seal in the black alloy cap (keeps dirt/mud/swamp out well at the expense of a bit of extra friction - fine in the rear shocks with the leverage the wheel has anyway).

Then under that in the silver billet shaft support, there's another quad ring seal (like a double o-ring, but with less friction) to keep moisture and muck/dust out again.
And then behind that there's a fabric/silicon grease seal - low friction and very good at keeping in oil, and keeping out moisture - they use it on the propshaft of boats...
And just in case, there's another quad-ring seal behind that to keep the oil in.

It's quite effective, I've seen a couple of Foxes off the old 206 come back from an event with 3 inch long scores, chips and a bend in the shafts - still didn't loose any oil...

So dust isn't really a problem, a shield to stop stonechips might be beneficial though, something I'm working on with Fox (they were supposed to be doing me some anodised ally ones)

edit: And the spherical bearings are certified Aurora units too - COM-E series, ptfe-lined, hardened stainless steel race and ball, they'll last a while

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It's not very effective in terms of damping though - you've only got to watch a PSA car when it's rallying to see how the back end flicks itself up over bumps - that's because the damper only moves about 1 inch for every 2.5inches of wheel travel, so they have a hell of a job trying to control the wheels especially at low shaft speeds.

Hence, good damping on the back is very beneficial, to the extent that many rally cars, if the rules permit, actually fit rear turrets to get the motion ratio back to 1:1 instead of 2.5:1


Torsion bar rear suspension was done for 2 things only - cost and rear boot space.

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Actually it's harder to get the damping right on a road/track car than a pure tarmac car - you can get away with the damping being a touch soft or a touch too stiff on a smooth racetrack, but when you're trying to cope with potholes and more travel being used on the road, plus the occasional foray onto the track, you're effectively trying to combine a rally damping curve with a tarmac one, and trying to provide a good level of body control to make up for the softer springs and high CoG - ad then trying to keep the whole shebang comfortable to boot - hence damping on a performance road/track car is actually far more critical than a pure tarmac race car.

Right up until he starts using the kerbs anyway.

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Not if he returned with his gas blowtorch

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GTI-6 & Rallye

Rallye gets sideways in the wet at Snetterton

To be honest, that's the sort of crowd I was aiming at, ideal for club rallies and the like, as they don't have to find a grand a corner for ultra-spec dampers and new torsion bars

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Well. I'll let them have some if they want.
I've got the show market covered too, chrome + remote reservoirs, sorted

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Going by the rears, this time next year

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time to save! woohoo!

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Team 'unintentional rat look'

so fitting these you are removing the TB's?

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sorry, my question was a bit vague,

i mean will you fit theses, and do away with the TB's, or run both like as std

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I'm too nice to you lot:


Billet floating piston from the other side:


Barrel-type compression adjuster:


And the secondary set of high-speed digressive-linear blowoff valving for when the low speed circuit chokes.


I've got to take that apart later on for cleaning so I'll get some pictures of the internals.

You can restack all the shims in here too to adjust how much chance the adjuster gives, and where in the curve the adjuster comes into effect.
Just in case you'd got bored with those 27 million stack combinations in the main body...

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Are there any plans to make the extra spring rate externally adjustable? Would be handy for dry and wet settings?!
Just to clear it up, whats the extra 35lb spring rate the equivalent to in torsion bar size increase? Ie, is it like adding an extra milly to the torsion bar diameter? Hope that makes sense, al

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Yes, it's roughly like going up just over 1mm in torsion bar size from stock.


Right, regarding the spring rate assistance:

The shocks have a fixed spring assist rate when you order them via a mechanism which I haven't shown yet, then the gas pressure adds an almost constant force - i.e, it just adds 30lb no matter where it is, unlike a spring that would give 30lb per inch.

So, adjusting the gas pressure is more like winding preload on coilovers - it can raise and lower the car slightly, but won't affect the spring rate.
However, because it's a gas spring, it is slightly progressive, so it does give a slight rate increase - about 20lb/inch at maximum pressure, and at the lowest recommend gas pressure approximately 10lb/inch.

So the spring rate is adjustable slightly by the pressure in the shock if you wanted, but be aware that it also affects the preload level/cavitation resistance and the friction/hystersis of the damper.

Like I say, the main rate assist is built in to the res. when the shock is constructed, although it can be changed fairly easily.

The nitrogen pressure is just for fine tuning really.


edit: I hope that made sense!

If you were heading to a drag strip you'd wind the pressure right up just for every bit you can get.
For wet weather you'd be better of winding the low-speed compression off slightly on the adjust to get the weight to transfer over faster anyway.

There will eventually be a version that varies a lot more using the nitrogen pressure - I had intended that to be the first version, but I need to sort out some heat issues first, so they're on the back burner until I've sorted out the fronts.

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