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Author Subject: XU on R1 Bodies with video
yanni

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Location: Thessaloniki

Registered: 02 Nov 2006

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Post #1
It has been some time now since my attempt to go SC failed but today the post man had a very very nice surprice for me.

It has been covered many times here with alot of questions and answers but i will attempt to take it for all of you step by step. Comments are always welcome.

Before i begin a few info about the engine. My beloved baby is now running on its early 40000 miles had a cam/water pump service done about a few miles ago and runs super smooth. Work so far done to it:
Ported and polished free flow head
BMC filter
Free flow custom 2.5 inch exchaust with race cat.
Custom cam reprofile
Billet steel flywheel (from Rich)
And a remap.
Dynno return 197hp on the fly (184HP at the wheels)

This is for now



So now the time has come to fit some bodies.
For my project i got a set of R1 2002 bodies from Carl (millic333) and a spare mani.



The idea is to fabricate the bodies in such way that the OEM ECU can be used. In order to do so i am using the OEM TPS ICV and MAP sensors in a way that i will describe in the following days.

First thing first. Some photos of the bodies.





To begin strip the lot down to bare metal by removing first the wirring and then the sensors. One good thing with the R1 bodies is that they use absolute pressure MAP and that can be handy



You can see the MAP bolted on the fuel rail next to the fuel pressure regulator remove the screws and take them off.

Next take the R1 TPS off



The R1 TPS axis unlike the XU10J4RS is a bit different so that one will go down to the milling machine as you will see later.
We can now remove the hoses from the bodies but keep in mind that we need these so dont brake them






Time to remove the fuel rail and the injectors



And by now we have the bare bodies



The black covers under the bodies are simmilar to the AVAC system only here they regulate the idle on tickover. Turn the bodies over undo the two screws on each cap and jently remove it. What you see inside is a rubber diaphragm that holds the regulating blade in place and a spring. Remove everything and put it on the side.





Now its time to seperate the bodies by undoing the two 10mm screws on the side. These screws run across the lenght of the bodies. Mark each one with a number before you remove so you can put them but together in the same order. Once done you have four bodies to start working with.







That is for now lads. I will continue tomorrow with more photos.
These should be finished by the end of next week so it wont take long until you have the complete how to guide.

I do hope that you will enjoy my write up and as i said before comments are more than welcome.

From Greece Yanni


Cool

________________________________________

Major stock holder of group P.S.A.
I live to pay and support the French industry.
Posted 25th Jun 2009 at 21:48
mark-house

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Location: Bury St Edmunds

Registered: 07 Apr 2009

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Post #2
This is perfect just what i need for when i do mine Big grin

Top job and look forward to reading the rest!

________________________________________

Peugeot 306 GTi 6
BMW 320 td compact M-sport
1967 Mini Cooper
1990 Jaguar XJR 4.0
Posted 14th May 2009 at 02:44
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,817

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Post #3
What's the spacing of the bodies? do they match the 92mm XU 16v spacing well?

they look very different to the Bodies that my brother has been sold as having come from an R1 Doh

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Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 14th May 2009 at 02:48
phillipm

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Location: Rotherham

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Post #4
There's lots of different 'bodies fitted to R1's, it's a bike, they change them every other year....

Saying that, they're nearly identical to my R6 'bodies, bar the black plastic cover on mine controls a CV slider, not the idle.

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Posted 14th May 2009 at 02:52
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #5
hmm, damn them! these are keihin not mikuni too, and I thought pugs were awkward enough LOL

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 14th May 2009 at 03:37
mark-house

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Post #6
these are the 5PW's there is also the 5VY's and the later 4C8's

________________________________________

Peugeot 306 GTi 6
BMW 320 td compact M-sport
1967 Mini Cooper
1990 Jaguar XJR 4.0
Posted 14th May 2009 at 03:47
damien

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Post #7
coming from someone thats done it before, save your money and time and just get some normal throttle bodies
Posted 14th May 2009 at 13:16
yanni

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Location: Thessaloniki

Registered: 02 Nov 2006

Posts: 309

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Post #8
I agree with you that there are far better solutions out there but when you have to stretch over the 1000GBp mark its worth the try. After all this wright up is more for the members that keep on asking about bodies how to and what it needs. Even though i believe that at the end its more the work it takes than performance.

Anyway the dynno at end will tell till then.....

Yanni.

________________________________________

Major stock holder of group P.S.A.
I live to pay and support the French industry.
Posted 14th May 2009 at 13:49
millic333

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Location: Clapham, London

Registered: 01 Nov 2007

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Post #9

Yanni - great to see you have got to work on them.

Following this with great interest, makes me wish i'd got off my arse and sorted them before.

Admittedly yes you could go and buy actual throttle bodies, but the cost is significant and there is no harm in being different.

Looking forward to hearing a video once fitted.

Damien's sounded great on the dyno run.

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Posted 14th May 2009 at 17:30
spike_uk06

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Location: Billingshurst

Registered: 03 Aug 2006

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Post #10
quote:
quote:
Dynno return 197hp on the wheels (184HP on the fly)


Correct me if im wrong but shouldn't that be the other way round? Power gets lost through the transmission I thought? Dunno

But good luck mate bet it will be sweet when finished..

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Posted 14th May 2009 at 20:44
brett-black-rallye

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Location: felixstowe

Registered: 28 Aug 2007

Posts: 573

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Post #11
spike_uk06 wrote:
quote:
quote:
Dynno return 197hp on the wheels (184HP on the fly)


Correct me if im wrong but shouldn't that be the other way round? Power gets lost through the transmission I thought? Dunno

But good luck mate bet it will be sweet when finished..


i think theres been a sneaky edit Dry

do you have a 5 speed box? i take it theres less power lost through a 5 speed?

its good to see someone actually going through with bike bodies other than just asking a few questions and then giving up.
Posted 14th May 2009 at 23:08
vts_tibi

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Location: Nuneaton

Registered: 27 Apr 2007

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Post #12
spike_uk06 wrote:
quote:
quote:
Dynno return 197hp on the wheels (184HP on the fly)


Correct me if im wrong but shouldn't that be the other way round? Power gets lost through the transmission I thought? Dunno

But good luck mate bet it will be sweet when finished..


it's only a typo I guess!


and Yanni is on the top of it again!

I wanted to do this aswell, but the final cost would have been the same as with Jenvey - don't ask! stupid hungarian bikers and breakers!Angry


so now I'm saving for the JenveysLove

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Posted 14th May 2009 at 23:41
yanni

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Post #13
Yes it is a typo and its corrected!!!
The reason behind this thread is that there are other ways of doing things undercutting the cost. What you will see at the end is a set of R1 bodies on the engine running on STANDARD ECU!!! So the cost will be down to the bodies (100-150) few bits and pieces less than a 50 and the cost of the remap. It can be done and i will show you how in a few days.

Anyway a bit of an update:
After some time with the angle grinder the mani is cut down to the rough lenght



Tomorrow is going down to the machinist to be cut down to the correct agle and get it ported and polished to match the head. Also to find some nice Samco collars to match them bodies on to it.

Just to give you the idea here it is again





You can clearly see the space between the bodies and thats the reason that it is essential to take them apart if you dont want them to look weird or even fall of their place.

Anyway thats for now.

Yanni.

________________________________________

Major stock holder of group P.S.A.
I live to pay and support the French industry.
Posted 15th May 2009 at 01:36
kit

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Post #14
This is really interesting, good work Yanni, looking forward to the finished result, and the dyno!

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Posted 15th May 2009 at 16:56
yanni

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Post #15
Just a pick off what i have done this weekend. In detail tommorow. For the moment i am waiting for the custom ICV/MAP plenum from the machine shop. Its getting there.






Enjoy Yanni.

________________________________________

Major stock holder of group P.S.A.
I live to pay and support the French industry.
Posted 17th May 2009 at 23:42
benny87

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Location: Nr Burnley

Registered: 28 Apr 2009

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Post #16
Looking sweet Thumbs up

Can't wait for the details, I'm thinking of doing this myself sometime soon Shifty

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Posted 17th May 2009 at 23:47
robertinho

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Location: São Paulo, Brazil

Registered: 08 Mar 2009

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Post #17
yanni, are you going to use the original water radiator?

have you already planned the air induction?
Posted 18th May 2009 at 00:15
john gordon

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Post #18
Even if it dont make much of a difference in power the sound alone will be worth it. Smile

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Posted 18th May 2009 at 04:59
mark-house

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Post #19
Any updates? Whistle

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Peugeot 306 GTi 6
BMW 320 td compact M-sport
1967 Mini Cooper
1990 Jaguar XJR 4.0
Posted 20th May 2009 at 03:23
yanni

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Location: Thessaloniki

Registered: 02 Nov 2006

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Post #20
Hello everybody. Sorry for tyhe delay on the updates but you know how work is.
Anyway the bodies are allmost ready.

Work done so far.

I got some 50mm high pressure hose and cut it down to about 7cm long and test fitted to the mani. These will hold the bodies to the mani.



I go me self 1 meter of threated wire and some 10mm nuts and washers to space the bodies. In order to do so you have to start from one side and move along.
Cut the threated wire in half and screw them in the threated end of the last body.





Use two nuts and washers (as shown) to lock them in place. Use another set of nuts and washers and slide the second body down. Now use the mani as a mirror to calibrate the space between them two and lock the second body in place with another set of nuts and washers.



When you do all four you will end up with something like this.



By now it is clear that we need to extend the butterfly lever so all four can open together.
I used some galvanished steel 2mm sheet that after measuring and cutting where ready to be riveted to the "ears" of each body. I have to tell you though that this is best to do before you srew everything together as i learned the hard way!!!





Once you do all the above its time to fit the bodies to the mani. Use some clamps to hold them in place and to make sure there are no air leaks. At this point you can choose if you want your mani silver or painted. I used black paint as it gives a nice contrast to the silver bodies!!!



As above fit the rubber hoses back in place and your half way there.

As i wrote at the top i am planning on using the OEM ECU and in order to do so i am keeping the TPS and MAP sensors.
The TPS is the tricky part here as the R1 butterfly axle is round where on the XU engine has a cut to lock it in place. Also the the XU TPS is inverted in comparison to the R1. Where the R1 turns clockwise the XU turns the other way. No worries though i will upload some photos tomorow of what i did in detail.




Another good thing is that the trottle cable fits in the R1 bodies so no mods here just a braket to lock the cable on the bodies. That later.




So by now this is what i have enjoy.



Yanni.


________________________________________

Major stock holder of group P.S.A.
I live to pay and support the French industry.
Posted 21st May 2009 at 02:52
mark-house

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Post #21
Looking good mate. Can't wait to find out the end result!

________________________________________

Peugeot 306 GTi 6
BMW 320 td compact M-sport
1967 Mini Cooper
1990 Jaguar XJR 4.0
Posted 21st May 2009 at 03:12
adam001

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Registered: 12 Mar 2009

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Post #22
Very nicely done, I could see this being something I may do on my engine
Posted 21st May 2009 at 04:00
daviewonder

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Registered: 01 May 2009

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Post #23
10/10 so far, really helpful thread, looking forward to updates.

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Posted 22nd May 2009 at 04:09
adam001

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Post #24
More please Smile
Posted 26th May 2009 at 04:56
daviewonder

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Registered: 01 May 2009

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Post #25
why are we waiting, why are we waiting?LOL

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Why is it that shoe repairers are so good at cutting keys? - Harry Hill.
Posted 27th May 2009 at 22:03

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