displaying posts 1 to 8 of 8

Author Subject: Underbody seal/Waxoyl protection
heliosphan

Senior User

Location: UK

Registered: 14 Sep 2007

Posts: 950

Status: Offline

Post #1
I'm planning to get my 6 back on the road next summer and have been meaning to attack the underside for the last 2 years that it's been off the road. I suddenly find myself full of enthusiasm to begin the process and wondered what the consensus is from others who've 'done' the underside of their car.

I've read through lots of project threads generally and over the years, and have been spurred on by the clean, rust-free boot floor areas.
I see lots of shiny paint and I've decided I can't/won't go to that level, for a number of reasons:

The 'rust' is not structural (I came from a history of Minis before French hatches and nothing on a 306 compares), it is surface rust to my knowledge.

My car is not a show queen, it will get filthy in no time so paint is pointless and may become chipped.

It's too much effort.

I don't have the time or money.



So I'm planning to use Waxoyl underbody seal, like the good old Mini days. My main area of attack is the boot floor, which seems less well protected from the factory than the central undercarriage (Peugeot seem to have put a seal all down the middle, but not under the boot).

The idea is that I don't want an MOT failure in a few years for corrosion. I'm done with that. I won't entertain noticeable corrosion on a car anymore. It's a deal breaker. Some Rallyes seem incredibly rusty these days and it scares me. Prevention is better than the cure, and all that. I bought my car when it was 7 years old and at 14 now, it's time to take action I feel.

My plan of action, being woefully under educated in bodywork preparation and rust prevention, is to drill/wire wheel any surface rust from the boot floor, clean the area and then paint the underseal on.
Can anyone counter this programme with a better method or offer any nuggets of wisdom for me to abide by along the way?

I may even take some photographs and begin a project thread, perish the thought...



Posted 13th Sep 2014 at 11:24
daver6

Seasoned Pro

Location: Durham

Registered: 08 Aug 2010

Posts: 2,379

Status: Offline

Post #2
Grinder to get the thick s**t off, then I red leaded it then Raptor / waxoyy

________________________________________

Red Rallye - Rolling "restoration"

Wishbone Polybushes available
Posted 14th Sep 2014 at 16:21
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #3
You'll see my thread where I've done this to my Rallye.

I would recommend cleaning the muck off the underneath with some truck wash or similar before wire wheeling. I found a Dremel with the small stainless brushes is good to get into tight areas where the wire wheel won't reach, though the little brushes don't last too long. I'd probably go with wire wheels on an angle grinder rather than cordless electric drill, as it will speed up the job a lot.

For long term protection I would recommend scuffing up the bare metal and painting with a zinc primer (most of the underneath was galvanised from the factory). You can either paint over that with stone chip or enamel for an additional layer of protection, or apply clear wax directly over the zinc primer.

Getting the surface rust off is what takes time. Painting it is much quicker and more enjoyable. I painted mine over a year ago and there are no chips to speak of. The clear wax gives a degree of impact protection.

I'd recommend Dinitrol or Bilt Hamber products over Waxoyl. More modern technology and do not dry out as quickly. I used B-H and am very happy with it.

I'd also get some wax into the chassis rails and sills - you can buy lances from the wax supplier that do this well, and I found it is not that difficult if you think it through, especially given what people charge to do it for you.

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 22nd Sep 2014 at 18:55
ryangti6

Seasoned Pro

Location: Pontypool

Registered: 01 Sep 2006

Posts: 1,839

Status: Offline

Post #4
When your back to bare metal it's worth putting some rust treatment on just to be sure you get it all.

I always use wire bits on a drill, you can buy the variety packs of a few different shapes that'll get in a lot more places than one on a grinder IMO. Also buy the brass ones not the steel, they'll still remove the rust without damaging the metal your trying to preserve.

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Ryan
Posted 22nd Sep 2014 at 20:13
prism7guy

Seasoned Pro

Location: DoncastAAAAARGH

Registered: 13 Jan 2008

Posts: 4,640

Status: Offline

Post #5
I also recommend Bilt Hamber products, it's worth buying a bottle of deox gel to smear over rusty areas, leave a few hours then wash off to get rid of more rust. (I sometimes put cling film over to stop it drying out if leaving it overnight).

Once the rust is gone i usually apply a couple of layers of Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 before painting it.

I'm hoping to do the underside of my cars at some point now that i have a garage to work in and live half a mile from work. Smile

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Goldie the track car.
Posted 22nd Sep 2014 at 20:14
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #6
Yes, I forgot I used a couple of litres of Deox Gel, and left it with cling film over it to keep it working overnight. Sometimes it would take a couple of applications, and it worked better if all the thicker scaly stuff was dislodged beforehand, and it sure got the rust out of the pits. I used Electrox zinc primer instead of Hydrate 80, which seemed to be a rust converter. I'm buying some ramps soon so I can use the axle stands a bit less.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 23rd Sep 2014 at 22:20
jamiek_uk2000

Seasoned Pro

Location: Llanelli

Registered: 18 Apr 2009

Posts: 1,925

Status: Offline

Post #7
I took it back to metal, deox gel where I couldn't get to the rust. Then Rust bullet over everything, red oxide primer and then hammerite for metal in red (car is diablo) which I applied with a brush. It is rock hard! As I can prove from hitting it with tools etc when fitting other parts

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205 GTi Red - G939 RTU - Died!
306 GTi 6 Diablo - Being resurrected! Project Thread

Looking for:
VTS P1 Rack
PR1.2 16"
Posted 23rd Sep 2014 at 22:24
chiefton

Seasoned Pro

Location: cranleigh

Registered: 09 Dec 2012

Posts: 1,195

Status: Offline

Post #8
I think most who have done a project thread have derusted have a read through them,is what I did before doing mine some top tips to be gained.

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cherry rallye daily (the money pit)
Posted 24th Sep 2014 at 12:29

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