Post #26
There we go then get the oil well up to temperature and let it drain thoroughly without using a flush. 
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Ph1 306 GTi 6 | RX8 231 S1 | YBR 125 Cafe Racer | MT-03 660
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| Author | Subject: engine flush question |
 24seven
Seasoned Pro  Location: Derby Registered: 05 Oct 2005 Posts: 6,221 Status: Offline |
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 Posted 1st Apr 2013 at 02:31
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beez_neez_gt
Seasoned Pro  Location: @ de limit of adhesion ! Registered: 14 Oct 2008 Posts: 2,916 Status: Offline |
Post #27
Is this now a war against buzz and gilesy as reposting their old threads again and again or what ??________________________________________ Pug fee`ver,Pick a Bogey, buy a Pug. Black 306 GTI 6 Standard, was 60k mileage, bargain!! Clicky: [url =http://www.306gti6.com]click here[/url] remove the space between [url & = |
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Posted 1st Apr 2013 at 07:02
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daveyboy
aka Jim Davey  Location: Southampton Registered: 01 Oct 2007 Posts: 8,648 Status: Offline |
Post #28
I'd use the flush, people worried about contaminating their new oil are getting in a flap over nothing. The very idea of flushing oil is that it's thin enough to drain down almost completely therefore leaving almost nothing behind, it should also carry any sludgy crap from the sump that would normally stay put with a normal oil change.If you you don't use a flushing oil, you get more of a contamination from the old dirty oil clinging to every surface within the engine mixing with your new fresh oil. ________________________________________ R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.Some of my services: (See my for sale threads) Engine mount/chassis repair Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION Harness bars |
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Posted 1st Apr 2013 at 09:27
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stan_306gti6
Forum Admin Location: Kent Registered: 18 Jan 2004 Posts: 21,768 Status: Offline |
Post #29
daveyboy wrote: I'd use the flush, people worried about contaminating their new oil are getting in a flap over nothing. The very idea of flushing oil is that it's thin enough to drain down almost completely therefore leaving almost nothing behind, it should also carry any sludgy crap from the sump that would normally stay put with a normal oil change. If you you don't use a flushing oil, you get more of a contamination from the old dirty oil clinging to every surface within the engine mixing with your new fresh oil. Completely disagree to be honest, would never touch the stuff.  ________________________________________ "Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"Peugeot 306 GTi-6 2000 (X), Moonstone  |
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Posted 1st Apr 2013 at 10:07
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daveyboy
aka Jim Davey Location: Southampton Registered: 01 Oct 2007 Posts: 8,648 Status: Offline |
Post #30
stan_306gti6 wrote: daveyboy wrote: I'd use the flush, people worried about contaminating their new oil are getting in a flap over nothing. The very idea of flushing oil is that it's thin enough to drain down almost completely therefore leaving almost nothing behind, it should also carry any sludgy crap from the sump that would normally stay put with a normal oil change. If you you don't use a flushing oil, you get more of a contamination from the old dirty oil clinging to every surface within the engine mixing with your new fresh oil. Completely disagree to be honest, would never touch the stuff. I know what flushing oil is for and the benefits, that's why I use it. I even rinse out my coolers and blow air down them and the remote pipes to get rid of every last bit of old oil I can. I jack the car up unevenly too so the drain plug really is at the lowest point on the engine. Given the choice of two teaspoons full of oil thinner (what flushing oil is) or two teaspoons of old carbon and metal impregnated oil left over inside the engine at each oil change I know which I choose. ________________________________________ R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.Some of my services: (See my for sale threads) Engine mount/chassis repair Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION Harness bars |
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Posted 3rd Apr 2013 at 13:58
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stan_306gti6
Forum Admin Location: Kent Registered: 18 Jan 2004 Posts: 21,768 Status: Offline |
Post #31
I see what you're saying Jim, but I have to say that my engine oil is not contaminated when I drain it as I do it regularly.  i.e. Every 1000 miles. ________________________________________ "Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"Peugeot 306 GTi-6 2000 (X), Moonstone |
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Posted 3rd Apr 2013 at 16:17
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aaron6
Seasoned Pro  Location: On the sofa in maidstone Registered: 16 May 2006 Posts: 5,840 Status: Offline |
Post #32
I do mine every 7k miles and when it comes out its nearly as clean as when it went in. I have to say, I understand the principle of the benefits but if theres a chance I may actually damage an engine using it, I simply wouldnt. Id just change the oil with cheaper stuff, drive a bit and then drain that and use the good stuff. ________________________________________ See the sheer power and might of the lesser known burrowing owl. |
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Posted 3rd Apr 2013 at 16:55
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daveyboy
aka Jim Davey Location: Southampton Registered: 01 Oct 2007 Posts: 8,648 Status: Offline |
Post #33
stan_306gti6 wrote: I see what you're saying Jim, but I have to say that my engine oil is not contaminated when I drain it as I do it regularly. i.e. Every 1000 miles. Then your comments aren't really relevant to someone who changes their oil yearly or at 10,000 mile intervals? They will have contaminated oil and sludge in the sump, and will benefit from using a flushing agent. ________________________________________ R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.Some of my services: (See my for sale threads) Engine mount/chassis repair Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION Harness bars |
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Posted 3rd Apr 2013 at 16:58
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daveyboy
aka Jim Davey Location: Southampton Registered: 01 Oct 2007 Posts: 8,648 Status: Offline |
Post #34
aaron6 wrote: I do mine every 7k miles and when it comes out its nearly as clean as when it went in. I have to say, I understand the principle of the benefits but if theres a chance I may actually damage an engine using it, I simply wouldnt. Id just change the oil with cheaper stuff, drive a bit and then drain that and use the good stuff. That's ridiculous, flushing oil doesn't damage engines, as for wasting good engine oil by using it as a flushing agent, that's madness. Just before oil change time, get the car hot, switch off, pour in a can of Wynns engine flush, fast idle for 5 mins, drop sump plug. Leave for a good hour to fully drain down. Replace filter, top up, fire up, stop engine, check level, fill as necessary, forget for 6,00 miles, simple. ________________________________________ R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.Some of my services: (See my for sale threads) Engine mount/chassis repair Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION Harness bars |
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Posted 3rd Apr 2013 at 17:01
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phillipm
Seasoned Pro  Location: Rotherham Registered: 15 Oct 2006 Posts: 20,607 Status: Offline |
Post #35
I just get the engine hot after a drive, drop the lot out whilst it flows like water, bugger the flush.I might pour half a litre of cheap atf or whatever I have to hand straight down from the head to wash out any oil that's still clinging if it's been a while since the last change, but that's about all. ________________________________________ - Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM meEmail me! Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces. |
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Posted 3rd Apr 2013 at 17:17
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daveyboy
aka Jim Davey Location: Southampton Registered: 01 Oct 2007 Posts: 8,648 Status: Offline |
Post #36
phillipm wrote: I just get the engine hot after a drive, drop the lot out whilst it flows like water, bugger the flush. I might pour half a litre of cheap atf or whatever I have to hand straight down from the head to wash out any oil that's still clinging if it's been a while since the last change, but that's about all. Atf is a flushing oil though? Thin oil, good detergent properties, picks up all the grime and drains down well as it's thin. You've basically just said I don't flush, then said you do  ________________________________________ R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.Some of my services: (See my for sale threads) Engine mount/chassis repair Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION Harness bars |
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Posted 3rd Apr 2013 at 17:30
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phillipm
Seasoned Pro Location: Rotherham Registered: 15 Oct 2006 Posts: 20,607 Status: Offline |
Post #37
Nah, I don't run the engine on it, I just put a bit through the top to push out the old stuff that's clinging, ATF if it's at hand, just some normal cheap oil if not, or part of the bottle of new oil that's going in.It's all pretty damned thin when it hits the hot block that's been out for a thrash ________________________________________ - Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM meEmail me! Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces. |
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Posted 3rd Apr 2013 at 17:37
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic  Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,817 Status: Offline |
Post #38
Like Phill said, just get it bloody hot then drain it straight away, comes out like thinners, unless its a diesel ________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
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Posted 3rd Apr 2013 at 17:47
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daveyboy
aka Jim Davey Location: Southampton Registered: 01 Oct 2007 Posts: 8,648 Status: Offline |
Post #39
I wouldn't worry about idling an engine on flushing oil, I've seen engines run with no oil at all but just using friction modified additives. I'm not saying it's a good idea, but a fast idle with a can of flush added, then a good drain down won't do any harm to your engine whatsoever. I wouldn't want to drive it with the flush added though, certainly not hard anyway.But this is more aimed at people who miss oil change intervals and do lots of stop start town driving than motorway mile munchers or cosseted racers that get attention lavished on them and regular changes of fresh golden oil. ________________________________________ R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.Some of my services: (See my for sale threads) Engine mount/chassis repair Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION Harness bars |
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Posted 3rd Apr 2013 at 17:50
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stan_306gti6
Forum Admin Location: Kent Registered: 18 Jan 2004 Posts: 21,768 Status: Offline |
Post #40
daveyboy wrote: stan_306gti6 wrote: I see what you're saying Jim, but I have to say that my engine oil is not contaminated when I drain it as I do it regularly. i.e. Every 1000 miles. Then your comments aren't really relevant to someone who changes their oil yearly or at 10,000 mile intervals? They will have contaminated oil and sludge in the sump, and will benefit from using a flushing agent. *touche* Is there any need to be so aggressive? In this modern day and age, most engines run very clean, engine flush is a thing of the past now IMO. ________________________________________ "Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"Peugeot 306 GTi-6 2000 (X), Moonstone |
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Posted 3rd Apr 2013 at 17:54
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honestly3k
Seasoned Pro  Location: Berkhamsted Registered: 06 Apr 2009 Posts: 2,390 Status: Offline |
Post #41
As mine is mostly a motorway cruiser, I try to change my oil every 10k or 3-4 times yearly As said I just take it out, give her a roasting then dump the oil. Seems to come out with no issues. My brother is a fan of using that ATF and running his car/gearbox with some of it in for a week then dumping it....he swears by it but ive never tried so cant really comment there! ________________________________________ ''Oh, it does handle like a golf!'' Why drive a Golf....when you can drive a GTi-6? |
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Posted 3rd Apr 2013 at 17:58
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daveyboy
aka Jim Davey Location: Southampton Registered: 01 Oct 2007 Posts: 8,648 Status: Offline |
Post #42
Depends how you read it Stan, it's just stating a fact. A rebuilt engine that gets serviced at 1,000 mile intervals will be in no real need of a flush. (I probably still would as the Royal Purple racing oil used in SC applications is thick as treacle, but that's just me)However, as we are seeing in more than one thread of late, in the main, the rest of the guys on here do things a little differently to you, in as much as they use their cars on a daily basis, rack up some serious miles, and I'd go so far as to say some will even skip service intervals, thrash from cold and use cheap, or inferior oils. These are the people who would benefit from a flush and they are who my suggestions were aimed at. You are special and exempt from normal generalisations. ________________________________________ R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.Some of my services: (See my for sale threads) Engine mount/chassis repair Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION Harness bars |
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Posted 3rd Apr 2013 at 18:03
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phillipm
Seasoned Pro Location: Rotherham Registered: 15 Oct 2006 Posts: 20,607 Status: Offline |
Post #43
I wouldn't run the car on the ATF for a week, you can get foaming issues where it meets additive packages of normal engine oil, at most just let it idle on it, or just pour it through with the block hot.________________________________________ - Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM meEmail me! Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces. |
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Posted 3rd Apr 2013 at 18:14
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daveyboy
aka Jim Davey Location: Southampton Registered: 01 Oct 2007 Posts: 8,648 Status: Offline |
Post #44
^^^ I'm pretty sure most flushing instructions don't recommend you drive with the flush added, fast idle for 10-15 mins max is usually the instruction on the tin.________________________________________ R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.Some of my services: (See my for sale threads) Engine mount/chassis repair Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION Harness bars |
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Posted 3rd Apr 2013 at 18:24
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phillipm
Seasoned Pro Location: Rotherham Registered: 15 Oct 2006 Posts: 20,607 Status: Offline |
Post #45
Probably don't, but I was responding to Honestly's comment about his brother....________________________________________ - Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM meEmail me! Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces. |
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Posted 3rd Apr 2013 at 18:32
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honestly3k
Seasoned Pro Location: Berkhamsted Registered: 06 Apr 2009 Posts: 2,390 Status: Offline |
Post #46
Its probably not advised but in said week he wont do that many miles, maybe 100...his cars always perform better than standard on the rollers so cant be that detrimental  Swears by it for cleaning up the gear change on a notchy gearbox also ________________________________________ ''Oh, it does handle like a golf!'' Why drive a Golf....when you can drive a GTi-6? |
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Posted 3rd Apr 2013 at 18:58
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stan_306gti6
Forum Admin Location: Kent Registered: 18 Jan 2004 Posts: 21,768 Status: Offline |
Post #47
daveyboy wrote: Depends how you read it Stan, it's just stating a fact. A rebuilt engine that gets serviced at 1,000 mile intervals will be in no real need of a flush. (I probably still would as the Royal Purple racing oil used in SC applications is thick as treacle, but that's just me) However, as we are seeing in more than one thread of late, in the main, the rest of the guys on here do things a little differently to you, in as much as they use their cars on a daily basis, rack up some serious miles, and I'd go so far as to say some will even skip service intervals, thrash from cold and use cheap, or inferior oils. These are the people who would benefit from a flush and they are who my suggestions were aimed at. Yeah, I can see where you're coming from with that Jim, it does make sense for people whom treat their engines with rather less respect than they perhaps should. daveyboy wrote: You are special and exempt from normal generalisations. This made me Nice one.  ________________________________________ "Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"Peugeot 306 GTi-6 2000 (X), Moonstone |
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Posted 3rd Apr 2013 at 19:00
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phillipm
Seasoned Pro Location: Rotherham Registered: 15 Oct 2006 Posts: 20,607 Status: Offline |
Post #48
honestly3k wrote: Swears by it for cleaning up the gear change on a notchy gearbox also Works well on notchy boxes because it's quite thin compared to normal gear oils and has a controlled friction level. ________________________________________ - Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM meEmail me! Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces. |
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Posted 3rd Apr 2013 at 19:10
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buzzbrightyear
Seasoned Pro  Location: hiding all receipts for car Registered: 09 Jul 2008 Posts: 11,894 Status: Offline |
Post #49
stan_306gti6 wrote: I see what you're saying Jim, but I have to say that my engine oil is not contaminated when I drain it as I do it regularly. i.e. Every 1000 miles. So your basically saying that you never change your oil ________________________________________ andrew315rawson@live.co.ukMoonstone phase 7 gti6 My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1 |
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Posted 4th Apr 2013 at 20:11
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buzzbrightyear
Seasoned Pro Location: hiding all receipts for car Registered: 09 Jul 2008 Posts: 11,894 Status: Offline |
Post #50
stan_306gti6 wrote: daveyboy wrote: Depends how you read it Stan, it's just stating a fact. A rebuilt engine that gets serviced at 1,000 mile intervals will be in no real need of a flush. (I probably still would as the Royal Purple racing oil used in SC applications is thick as treacle, but that's just me) However, as we are seeing in more than one thread of late, in the main, the rest of the guys on here do things a little differently to you, in as much as they use their cars on a daily basis, rack up some serious miles, and I'd go so far as to say some will even skip service intervals, thrash from cold and use cheap, or inferior oils. These are the people who would benefit from a flush and they are who my suggestions were aimed at. Yeah, I can see where you're coming from with that Jim, it does make sense for people whom treat their engines with rather less respect than they perhaps should. daveyboy wrote: You are special and exempt from normal generalisations. This made me Nice one. When I bought the car i didn't know how it was treat the last few years and it also had a slight tap when warm(not a tapper) that's why I thought I'd try it. As said though now I have a nice New engine and I know it's cherished I wouldn't consider it. ________________________________________ andrew315rawson@live.co.ukMoonstone phase 7 gti6 My Project thread: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=119992&page=1 |
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Posted 4th Apr 2013 at 20:23
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