Il put mine up tonight, no overly different from owain really but il put them up just to show a slightly different approach!

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Excellent. That's brill, thanks alot!

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Cheers, easy enough! I'll try it with the abs off at my next track day. But knowing me its highly likely that the abs will be gone

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Lydden Hill 31/10/2015 Last Track day
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Yep definitely the clips are a must, I got them off eBay I think about 50p for 200,000 as owain says. The One thing I find is I can now feel exactly what the cars doing under braking whereas before the ABS was too keen to cut in and you lost the feel for what the car was doing, also as previously stated it allows you to brake a lot later and teaches you to control it better, just my 2p's worth!

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Owain / Jeffers, how much copper piping did you use? Are there any other tools / parts I'd need?

I've got a bit of time over the Xmas hols and I'm hopefully going to be getting new front calipers so may as well remove the ABS at the same time if it isn't too expensive!

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You can buy a brake pipe bending tool off the bay for around £10 il see if I can find a link to the one I bought. For doing tighter bends I used a socket of the appropriate size to bend the copper round, it works well to be fair. One other thing to remember when building up the system in copper don't tighten any of the unions up until your happy with the routing of pipework etc with copper being soft you just distort the flared ends and after being off and on a couple of times you'll struggle to get them to seal! Any other questions just shout up!

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I think I've still got some links somewhere Dan, I'll tag on a reply shortly, but due to my current state of personal hygiene I really should shower first.

Once that inconvenience is out of the way Jeffers and I can have some kind of ABS-removal knowledge joust

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I should warn you quit smoking a week ago so i'm a fairly ANGRY man at the min!

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Right, here's everything I can find. I ordered these plastic brake line clips:

Plastic line clips

As for the brake line itself, you want 3/16", but don't confuse this with the 3/8" thread on some of the unions you can buy. There are three types - steel (which you can't bend or flare with standard tools), cupro-nickel (which is stronger and will last longer than copper but again you'll struggle to do it well with cheap tools), and pure copper, which is what I used, and Jeffers too by the look of his pictures. I bought this reel, and it was plenty:

3/16" brake line

As for the unions themselves I got a pot of each (male & female) from Unipart, but CBS sell them as well - you want to use M10 across the board; it's the fitting all the 306 calipers use, and it's what the master cylinder has. There are a few materials they can be made of and I had a fair bit of chat as to what to go for, in the end I went for the chrome-plated steel (iirc) ones, which reassuringly it looks like Jeffers went for too. They should be a yellowish metal colour. Don't go for the aluminium ones, as they'll seize in the calipers due to some complicated electrical charge differences between materials.

Female unions
Male unions

(Jeffers - any thoughts on those male ones - they look like the longer ones to me, mine were shorter? Don't see how it'd matter, just wondered)

Depending on how and where you choose to split the pipes, you'll probably need some T-pieces.

To get through the bulkhead, you'll need a bulkhead union.

I can't remember where I got my bias valve from, but buy a decent one - I went for a Wilwood. Annoyingly it came with imperial unions, so I got some imperial to M10 adaptors with it, just make sure the seller knows you need to connect M10 to it.

For bending the pipe, I bought a Clarke tool for the job, it's an absolute piece of s**t but does the job perfectly. Clarke themselves just re-badge some Chinese rubbish, so you can pick these up off eBay for about £7. It can sometimes be a bit of a headf**k trying to figure out which way you want to put the tool onto the pipe to get the pipe to bend the way you want, but as long as you're half-sensible it'll be fine.

It's worth buying yourself a half-decent flaring kit, seeing as you're essentially putting your life in its hands. Again I bought a Clarke Kit, which has everything you need - a proper pipe cutter which gives you true 90 degree ends, all the various dies for male and female unions and the flaring tool itself.

Before you crack on making up the new lines, do a few practise bends and flares with the tools - it's surprisingly easy to get one that looks right, but takes a bit of practise to get them absolutely perfect. The flare itself needs to be absolutely uniform and symmetrical if it's going to seal - sometimes they flare is slightly off-centre. Don't be tempted to use it, just cut the end off and try again. I rushed a few on mine, and I ended up with a few seeping fluid and having to be re-done, which is extremely annoying when you've already been around clipping the pipe down everywhere.

All-in-all though, it's an easy job, but due to its nature it deserves to have time and care taken over it. Exactly where you choose to route the lines is up to you; some people get double-pipe bias tools so you can pipes to the rear wheels separately; some people prefer to do that so that one exit on the master cylinder goes to the front right and rear left, and the other to the front left and rear right in case one of them fails. Personally I didn't bother with that, my car's light enough that even if I lost the fronts it wouldn't be the end of the world, but I've never heard of anyone having half a master cylinder fail on these cars anyway.

I think that's all, did you do anything different Jeffers? Certainly I'd agree though, don't buy any of the brake parts themselves off eBay, you don't know the quality you're getting and if you ran out and needed to order more it could be a completely different product from a different source. Buy it from someone reputable.

EDIT: I put 3/8" in a couple of places I meant 3/16".

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Buddha?

No worries, gimme a shout if I missed anything. Just be careful and sensible and you'll be fine.

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I've wired a switch into the fuse panel so I can have it on or off to suit track conditions.
Works well for me.

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Got rid of it. No need once you have a bias valve, and one less thing to fail an MOT on.

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Fancy coming to give me a hand once you've done yours? Not that far from me!

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