Yea, it's all about power to weight so capacity doesn't matter. The downside is it would stop me racing in Tin Tops or a capacity series, which seems a little tight as you can spend £10k+ on a 2L engine but can't spend much less than that on a 2.1!

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Rallye Race Car

Racing is great but it's a big commitment. If you're around, come along to a race.

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Rallye Race Car

With Trackday Trophy you don't need to commit to the whole year, you pay to enter the series (£100) and to have a dyno done (£100) then you can enter races as you want. I only did 2 races last year but should be doing 7 or 8 this year.

I'm still waiting for the calendar confirmation but the first race will be Donington around the 21st April

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Rallye Race Car

I’ve changed clutches on a trackday before all part of the fun lol

1.17.. i reckon I’d probably be more like 1.27 lol

I think Michael witnessed 3 of us taking Wils gearbox out and then slither disc cutting and grinding the broken rivets off a tilton clutch plate and the temp bolting it back together between that same time ....qual to race ....

Your a very lucky chap Dan

yikes, that's been planed off not skimmed lol! how close are the valve seats to the face of the head now?!

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Could always go down the conetic gasket route as can have any thickness if you want to stay with the current head. What had failed or is it just a strip and refresh?

Bit more of an update over Christmas. Here is the clearance between the valve seat and plane, it's pretty close but seems ok.



I had another go at cleaning up the valves using a method I found online of putting them in drill and running them against a brass wire brush and seems to have made a big difference. Here's a before:



And after picture:



I also lapped and refitted the valves to the head, not something I'd done before. Lapping was ok and had no real issues once I figured out a technique. Putting the spring collets back in was a bloody nightmare to start with Eventually found a better way of doing it after much swearing! Here's a lapped valve seat on the left and unlapped on the right:



Once all that was done I put the head back on the block with a new gasket and head bolts (hopefully torquing it up properly this time!), timed it up with a new cambelt and fitted alternator and aux belt.

I had picked up a baffled sump from Pete which originally came from a touring car. I wanted to run it to try and minimise oil pressure drops on circuit and it was a fair bit cheaper than a full dry sump scenario and (I was hoping) should be easier to fit! As it turns out, it wasn't. The sump uses a different windage tray that has 8 mounting points instead of 4 on the standard one. In order to fit it you have to use different main end bolts which have slightly shorter heads than the standard ones. This meant that the tray was too close to the crank as it's designed for a BTCC engine and gets in the way of a standard crank.



With the tray abandoned I switched to figuring out the pump which was slightly different to a standard one (standard on left, new one on right):



There are a couple of differences but the main thing to notice is there has been material removed from the bottom of the pump behind the sprocket to allow it to fit over the new windage tray. It also had some interesting modifications to the pickup point:



As it turns out, it's an HDI pump:



It also doesn't fit with the spacer the normal pumps use to tension the chain so another reason I couldn't fit it.

With all that done I tried to fit the standard pump with the baffled sump and standard tray. What the setup is aiming to do is make a smaller area of oil for the pump to pick up from by creating a square around it using 3 plates in the sump and one on the pump, seen here:



Unfortunately I just couldn't get the sump to fit properly, it wouldn't sit flush with the block and wouldn't line up correctly. After about a day of faffing around I gave up and went back to the standard sump and pump completely, I've no idea why it isn't fitting on my engine!

With that all done and the head sorted it's pretty much ready to go back in the car:



The final thing I had to do was reconnect the rear brakes after all the beam work. One of the pipes had broken when taking them off so had to quickly redo it. Then I had the final problem of the pads I'd ordered not fitting. They have so much material on them there was no way they were going to fit!



Will have to speak to EBC to sort it out.

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Rallye Race Car

With that much Pad on them ...I’d say front pads

Looking Great Dan ...keep the updates coming my friend

Dan Do I understand correct ?...you’ve been suffering from oil pressure drop at times ?

Have you thought about a accumsump?

Ive been looking into these for when i eventually finish my engine build and look a fairly good compromise

Yes Ive run one since the Sandy engine got fitted ....seems to work well and I also run a (Stack PRO oil pressure gauge that records everything and beeps / flashes red if pressure goes low ..never has ?....thank god

I run a manual Accsump inside the car under the passenger dash / bolted onto the roll cage ...I Can pre-lube 80psi of oil into the engine before even starting it ....which should help with wear also

Yep thats how i understand it works and as damien said you can pre oil which is a bonus imo especially when it could be weeks/months without starting etc