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Author Subject: Clutch Cable Project
iplay

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Location: Number Wang

Registered: 18 May 2006

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Post #1
A common complaint on 306's is a heavy clutch which dries out over time due to the heat from the back of the engine.

last time I changed the clutch cable I put tinfoil around the cable to deflect heat. This has worked quite well but once again the clutch has become heavy after two years.

This time the new clutch cable (OEM part No.2150T4) will be surrounded by two lengths of flexible air ducting @
Posted 26th Apr 2009 at 21:24
iplay

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Post #2
For cars with air conditioning undoing the bolt under the wheel arch which retains the aircon pipes does not give enough space to remove the old clutch cable. This is because the aircon pipe does not allow the clutch cable to be pulled through perpendicular to the hole on the body shell and the white pedal clip gets caught in the hole.



Removal can be simplified by taking a hacksaw and cutting through the cable above the clutch adjustment rubber gatter. This allows the white pedal clip to be pulled through from the inside of the car leaving the outer rubber sleeve to be easily pulled out from under the car. The rubber bung can then be pushed out from inside the car.

The white pedal clip and inner wire can be used to thread some strong 'cord' or string through from the inside which can be used to pull the new clutch cable through from under the car.
Posted 26th Apr 2009 at 07:02
iplay

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Post #3
Cannibalising the old clutch cable


Cut the silver heat shield tube down its length.


Use it on the new clutch cable secured by tinfoil.


Cut a section in the rubber bungs.


The old clutch cable washers make very good engine tray retainers.


They fit over the new clutch cable at the ends of the two lengths of flexible air ducting.
Posted 27th Apr 2009 at 14:55
iplay

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Post #4
A thermal sleeve can also be inserted under the flexible air ducting. I am thinking of using some fibreglass roof insulation ... i will finish this write up tomorrow
Posted 26th Apr 2009 at 07:11
jose

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Post #5
cool. my clutch is really heavy, will lubricating the cable not help? are you going to show us how the cable fit goes aswell?

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Posted 26th Apr 2009 at 17:47
iplay

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Post #6
jose wrote:
cool. my clutch is really heavy, will lubricating the cable not help? are you going to show us how the cable fit goes aswell?


Lubricating the cable will help ... as another member suggested filling the rubber gatter up with lubricant helps every time the the clutch is pressed. The heat from the engine will still cause it to dry out over time and get progressively heavy. Also worth lubricating the clutch lever arm because that will be 50% of the stiffness.

I am fitting it now after Arsenal and F1 coverage finishes Smile
Posted 26th Apr 2009 at 18:24
iplay

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Post #7
New insulated Clutch cable part fitted





I still need to put a couple of cable ties to prevent it catching the driveshaft. I will not be using the body cable connectors because i suspect that over time put the cable through 90 degrees causes the metal wire to harden and stiffen. Using two cable ties will give a much better curve coming out of the bulkhead.

Clutch is now lighter than the Accelerator pedal ... will update if it deteriorates.
Posted 27th Apr 2009 at 14:53
jose

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Post #8
how much was the clutch cable? and where did you get the air ducts from?

________________________________________

Nile Blue GTi6

Alpine White 205 GTi 1.9 - Project

Air Con Pipes Thread.......

Machine Polishing - Paint Correction - Swirl Removal in West London - PM for details
Posted 27th Apr 2009 at 16:34
jamesf

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Location: Lancashire / Carlisle

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Post #9
If you make these and post out Ill have one.
Posted 27th Apr 2009 at 17:09
iplay

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Post #10
jose wrote:
how much was the clutch cable? and where did you get the air ducts from?


service box quotes clutch cable part:00002150T4
Posted 27th Apr 2009 at 18:25
jamesf

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Location: Lancashire / Carlisle

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Post #11
Looks like Ill have to have a bash myself!
Posted 29th Apr 2009 at 17:35
chas

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Location: Warwickshire

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Post #12
I like this, but when I changed my cable I didn't like how close it ran to the driveshaft (I actually zip tied mine onto something on the bulkhead).

Surely putting this stuff on would exaggerate the problem?

Either way I hope it works well Smile. I was looking into this myself a few months ago and when I was changing my cable (I was thinking of what they use on old BL cars-Grease nipples on the cables Smile.

________________________________________

Ex Owner of 2000 Phase 3 306 GTi 6 China Blue - You shall be missed

1974 Triumph Stag
1989 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.6
2003 Alfa Romeo 147 JTD Lusso
2005 Mondeo Ghia X 3.0 Estate LPG
Posted 29th Apr 2009 at 19:58
iplay

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Post #13
I would be interested in anyway to add a grease nipple to a clutch cable. Maybe something could be attached at the top of the cable where it comes through from the bulkhead. Then the cable could be greased from inside the car without having to remove the cable. And a second application at the clutch lever arm end.

I think the 90 degree routing through the bulk head is also a recipe for a stiff clutch. if you take a wire and pull it over the edge of a table/bench it gets stiffer.
Posted 29th Apr 2009 at 20:52
iplay

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Post #14
One year on ... and this modification has worked really well. The clutch cable is still lighter than my new accelerator cable.

I do want to change the design and use a non metal surround to reduce engine noise.

I am after some kind of flexible cloth/rubber tube that can absorb engine sound (not reflect it) and withstand the heat from behind the engine manifold.

diameter 40-45mm required.

any suggestions welcome ... linky's please!
Posted 16th Mar 2010 at 03:19
phillipm

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Post #15
Woven fibreglass seems the easiest?

Product ET50:

Clicky

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Posted 16th Mar 2010 at 03:31
iplay

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Post #16
phillipm wrote:
Woven fibreglass seems the easiest?

Product ET50:

Clicky


Excellent find. I like the way it can accommodate 50mm and spring back to 20mm! v clever. 2*1 meter sections at
Posted 16th Mar 2010 at 04:04
phillipm

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Post #17
It's fibreglass, not polyester, top ones are poly Big grin
It won't transmit the sound into the cabin like the metal cover either, it'll take short bursts of more temperature but not continously, other than that you'll want a woven ceramic or firesleeve.

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Posted 16th Mar 2010 at 04:05
iplay

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Post #18
phillipm wrote:
It's fibreglass, not polyester, top ones are poly Big grin
It won't transmit the sound into the cabin like the metal cover either, it'll take short bursts of more temperature but not continously, other than that you'll want a woven ceramic or raychem type fireguard.


Yes I just edited too late Doh
Would it handle continuous heat from exhaust manifold/engine etc?

I was going to buy a firesleeve product with a fury inside but it was
Posted 16th Mar 2010 at 04:09
phillipm

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Post #19
Gets a bit expensive then!

Ceramic fire-blanket + stainless steel tie wraps every 100mm?

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Posted 16th Mar 2010 at 04:19
bigbadbowen

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Post #20
Brilliant I think you should deff make some up for us lazy cvnts

Wink
Posted 16th Mar 2010 at 04:26
phillipm

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Post #21
iplay wrote:

Would it handle continuous heat from exhaust manifold/engine etc?


Well, if the temperature was over 300*c an inch or two from the standard cable, I think that'd be melting anyway, so it should be fine.

________________________________________

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Posted 16th Mar 2010 at 04:29
iplay

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Post #22
What is the ambient operating temp of a standard 6?

Fire sleeve is good for continuous 250 degrees and

I have emailed the ET50 company to ask about continuous operating temp of the fibre glass weave.

I like the fact that ET50 can stretch over the end caps and springs back to 20mm diameter which will reduce sound issues further. I hope this can withstand the heat. Roof Fibreglass has worked perfectly well insulating the metal ones in post#1 for a year.
Posted 17th Mar 2010 at 05:23
phillipm

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Post #23
250-300 continuous, about double that peak for short periods.
Not sure on the ambient down there, tried monitoring it with some temperature strips?

________________________________________

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Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.
Posted 17th Mar 2010 at 05:20
iplay

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Post #24
phillipm wrote:
250-300 continuous, about double that peak for short periods.
Not sure on the ambient down there, tried monitoring it with some temperature strips?


I would like to get away with the ET50 @
Posted 17th Mar 2010 at 05:25
phillipm

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Post #25
Well, you'd expect the normal plastic to start to deteriorate at anything over 100*c, so I can't see it jumping to past 300* within an inch?

I'm running some of the fiberglass sleeve over some wiring that's only about 4 inches from the exhaust on the buggy, it's doing fine.

________________________________________

- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
Email me!
Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.
Posted 17th Mar 2010 at 05:32

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