There's two schools on this really, you can run no anti-roll bar and stiffer springs - this will generally generate more grip on suspension with sufficent travel, however, you have effectively shifted more of the roll balance to the rear of the car and generated oversteer on turn in - which can't be easily dialed out.
On the other hand uprating both anti-roll bars will reduce overall grip slightly, as the car ends up underdamped unless you run a 3rd lever arm damper on the antiroll bar (as run on the rear of the latest F1 cars, albiet a very specialised version of a damper).
That's because you are effectively transfering spring and damper rates from one side of the car to the other, via another spring, which absorbs some of the high-frequency damping and prevents it translating, it also limits droop on the inside wheel and lets the wheel spin up slightly earlier, which isn't good without a LSD.
This is why I run no front anti-roll bar - my driving style suits a slightly oversteering FWD car, I run the car high to cope with white roads and with no LSD and whites ever bit of extra traction is a bonus.
Now, on the other hand, uprated anti-roll bars all around (which have as much slack out of them as possible to transfer the damping from the unloaded side of the car, as Wayne alluded to) reduce the roll and increase feedback through the car, which may allow you to hold the car near maximum grip more often than a car with no arb, even if that grip level is slightly lower.
That's where it gets tricky, the softer damper and spring settings allow more tyre carcass relaxation between loading cycles and can actually start to generate more grip.
And spring rate to spring rate a setup with antiroll bars will give less roll, so less camber and track change and make the car more predicatable.
To be honest, a car can be fast either way, but for a car with little suspension travel an anti-roll bar is often the only way keep the springs soft enough to stop the tyres being overworked, whereas with a car at standard ride height or on low grip/bumpy surfaces no anti-roll bar can gain vital traction as the suspension geo. is already compromised by roll (how much do you ride kerbs at tracks? With mine I throw the car over them but sometimes that's not the best way)
As always, there's a choice, and the extremes at either end are only for specialist vehicles (none of our off-roaders run any anti roll bar at all, straight line traction is premium)
I've simplified that a lot, because there are so many factors interlinking I can't do anything but make generalisations, and I've just come in from a night on the town which isn't helping, but to be honest, you aren't competing, you don't have a budget the size of Waynes bank account (
) so you have to go for whichever gives you the most fun rather than the fastest times, for me, that's no anti-roll bar at all, but if it was a low road/track car, I'd probably keep at least something small or standard up front.
Well, actually, I'd probably have a go at doing a 3 damper setup after a few pints...
If you want to go to no anti-roll bar at all, really you need to be on spherical bearings all around and alter the geometry so you can still run a softish front end without the trouble of sudden roll understeer from a bump, or snap oversteer on the way into something slippy, which is a bugger to catch as it's when you're least expecting it, probably not an issue on UK tracks though, although maybe on airfields.
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