displaying posts 1 to 21 of 21

Author Subject: 307 hub carrier
clen666

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Post #1
Just after a bit of info on the 307 hubs, welshpug might be able to answer as he seems clued up on what satchell do.

1. Are there any variations in hub carrier in the 307 range?

2. From what I've read about brake swaps, the caliper mounts and disc offset are the same as the gti6 hub, so I could use caliper brackets and bells designed for the gti6, correct? (Depending on Q1)

3. Are they designed for a different wheel offset?

4. For a given wheel size at the correct offset, is there any difference in wheel/strut clearance?

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Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 12:24
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #2
1, I don't think there are any differences that will affect the use on a 306.

2, yep.

3, yep.

4, probably, never measured though.

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Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 12:37
clen666

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Post #3
Very concise, thanks.

Don't suppose you know what offset they need, using standard gti6 wheel width of 6" for example?

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Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 12:45
clen666

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Post #4
Actually I've found a site that has offsets ranging from 25-31 depending on wheels size so I should be able to work it out from there

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Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 12:49
demondriverdan

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Post #5
What's the benefit of these over a 306 hub?

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Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 13:07
clen666

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Post #6
I believe satchell use them because the lower balljoint pin is fixed in the hub and stronger as a result, might also be easier for them to play with bump steer and roll centre?

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Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 13:13
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #7
no, its because its a lot easier to move the lower pivot point, and it has the 2 bolt clamp to the strut so camber changes can be made a lot easier.

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Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 13:14
clen666

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Post #8
Ah ok, thanks

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Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 13:16
demondriverdan

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Post #9
I guess you would fit them to the 306 wishbone with the pin in the hub going through a rosejoint attached to the wishbone?

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Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 13:17
clen666

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Post #10
Yeah that's what I was thinking, if I ever get some tubular wishbones made up

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Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 13:22
pugheaven

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Post #11
Hmm, this is interesting!

Has anyone ever split a 306 ball joint apart?
Surely with the 307 ball joints they already have the swive/ball jointl part built in so you wouldn't need a rose joint onto the wishbone?

So.... get a 306 ball joint, take it apart and drill a hole to take the 307 ball joint?

How much lower are the ball joints on the 307 hubs compared to a 306 hub?

All so means that I can use 307 coilovers where they are lowered by shortening the body of the coilover and if need be getting shorter springs
Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 14:29
prism7guy

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Post #12
I think the stub from a 307 ball joint where it normally meets the wishbone is tapered for a secure fit, you'd have a hard time ripping a 306 balljoint apart to adapt it so that it is suitable. I think the best way of mating the 307 hub to a 306 wishbone would be to remove the 307 ball joint, get an adapter machined which screws into the 307 hub then tapers down to say 20mm and use a 20mm rose joint which screws into an adapter which would fit the 306 wishbone. This way you could then decide on where the rose joint pivot point is in relation to the 307 hub to alter the roll centre accordingly.

Does anyone know the centre of gravity height for a 306?
I havent got access to corner weights to find it for myself but read on the internet that it's commonly the height of the crankshaft, but i'd imagine it to be a bit higher on a 306.
Also, anyone got a rough idea for the corner weights for both a standard 306 and a stripped one?

I'm trying to sort out the roll centre on my car, ideally i'd lower the rose joint height where the wishbone meets the hub, but i'm as low as i can go without it hitting the rotor. I could space the rotor out but that would then mean having to space the wheel further out which i'm not keen on, so the alternative i'm considering is making a new subframe where the wishbone pivot points are higher correcting the wishbone angle.
The 307 hub could be an option seeing as the brake mounting all seems to be the same as a 306 hub, but once again i'm thinking that i may have brake clearance issues, and then theres the awkwardness of having to design and machine something to connect the damper to the hub.
The 406 hub seems to be similar to the 307 hub in terms of machining a screw in adapter to take a rose joint, and that seems like it will accept a 306 damper with the clamp system as used on the 306 hub, but the brake mounting points are different which would need new brake brackets and probably bells machining to suit.

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Goldie the track car.
Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 16:29
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #13

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 17:05
clen666

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Post #14
Yes that is what put me off the 406 hub as I have a brake kit that I want to use.

My plan is to see what I can come up with regarding a new subframe too, as I wanted to do similar to you and see if the wishbone mounts and steering rack can be raised

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Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 17:08
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,822

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Post #15
Colin uses a 406 hub on his car, this is a bolt on setup for a 205.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 17:11
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,822

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Post #16
no need to move the inner wishbone mounts, just lower the outer.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 17:12
prism7guy

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Post #17
Easier said than done, the only way i can lower mine with a 306 hub is to make new brake brackets etc.


Just ordered a 307 hub though so i'll see whether it's feasible to do on mine.

Is the tre mounting point in the same position on the 307 hub as the 306? I'm guessing not so that might affect bump steer etc, i've pretty much dialled out all the bump steer on my current setup, but that would change as soon as i move the bottom pivot point anyway. Probably change the ackerman angle too if it is different.

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Goldie the track car.
Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 17:49
clen666

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Post #18
prism7guy wrote:

Just ordered a 307 hub though so i'll see whether it's feasible to do on mine.


You don't hang about!

I went to a breakers today to pick a pair up but they weren't open Sad

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Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 18:02
prism7guy

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Post #19
Ebay is your friend, got one for £12 delivered LOL

I'm still unsure whether it'll foul the rose joint, but for £12 i'll take the gamble. If it works then it's the least amount of faffing about making the relevant bits to adapt to my car.

________________________________________

Goldie the track car.
Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 18:10
clen666

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Location: Co. Durham

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Post #20
Yeah I saw that one, but another that I saw was just up the road so thought I'd just pop up and pick it up, wasted journey!
Hopefully they reply to their email

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Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 18:12
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,822

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Post #21
I think the offset from flange to balljoint and strut is taller, hence the taller offset wheels the 307/8 run, so clearance to deep offset discs is less of an issue.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 10th Dec 2016 at 18:14

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