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Author Subject: Top mount FAQ piccies :unsure
justinaccurate

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Post #1
I have been annoyed by a creak that I suspect from reading threads here is my top mount bearings. I dont mind having a go at stuff; I was worried that the spring compressors would be expensive but having seen they are about a tenner am thinking this might be a job I could have a go at...

But the top mount FAQ has all the pics missing. Sad

Dont suppose anyone has them or a link to a guide on how to do this job

Or anyone that knows the job wanna spend an afternoon helping me do mine while i make tea / pour beers Big grin
Posted 20th Feb 2009 at 02:31
dr-evil

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Location: Crewe

Registered: 20 Oct 2006

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Post #2
The spring compressing will be a two man job - esp. if you have spax springs - 'cause the jaws on the compressors will skid on the f*ckin rock'ard paint and try to kill you every ten seconds !!! Second person will need to hold the compressors while you wind them in and out (alternate between the two (or more) evenly).

If you've got stock springs don't worry they are a piece of p*ss. Just grab as much spring as possible 'cause they are very long and will leave enough pressure in the remaining coil to make reassembly a swear-fest.

Are you just replacing the bearing or you buying a 'complete' top mount kit (pugs top mount kit doesn't include the spring pan) ? As long as you keep track of the order that everything came off in and put it back that way (with new bits of course) - then you'll be fine - oh and remember the thick washer that sits on the top of the damper rod - its easy to forget while your sorting the order that the rest of the mount go's back on in Smile

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Posted 20th Feb 2009 at 05:04
gilesy

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Post #3
I'd like someone to make up a "can work on helicopters but can't really do cars" guide for me on this!!
Posted 20th Feb 2009 at 14:32
greenbelt

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Location: How's Life In London?

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Post #4
Loosen the big strut top nut. You will need a 7mm allen key or similar to hold the rod and a deep offset spanner, 21mm I think.


The usual stuff under the car, loosen wheelnuts, jack up car, wheel off, remove top droplink nut and free from shock mounting point


Change sides Laugh

Remove brake caliper and disc and the brackets for the abs/brake lines so that instead of this


You have a bit of space to work


Now comes the tricky bit where you have to compress the springs.
I find it easiest to jack from the bottom of the balljoint and then attach the spring compressors when they are under quite a lot of tension. If the car starts to move off the axle stands you are in big trouble. BE CAREFUL and don't overdo it! Sorry, no pics for this bit as I was a bit preoccupied Roll eyes

Soak the whole area around the bottom of the strut and the pinch bolt with wd40. Remove strut pinch bolt. Freeing the strut is quite easy if you use a large chisel and a BFOH


When the bottomof the strut is free, undo the three smaller nuts in the engine bay to free and remove the complete strut. You should be looking at something like this.


You might need to compress the springs a bit to get the top mount cradle and bearings free. Just be careful, you dont want it bouncing around off the walls while you duck for cover. Remember the order that everyting came off the strut when putting it back together.

If you f*ck it up, don't blame me Thumbs up

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Posted 20th Feb 2009 at 16:02
gilesy

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Post #5
Top bombing...I like it! Still haven't cashed your postal order!!
Posted 20th Feb 2009 at 16:18
greenbelt

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Post #6
And I still haven't fitted the second chock yet Laugh

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Posted 20th Feb 2009 at 16:22
lukejenks101

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Post #7
justinaccurate wrote:
I have been annoyed by a creak that I suspect from reading threads here is my top mount bearings. I dont mind having a go at stuff; I was worried that the spring compressors would be expensive but having seen they are about a tenner am thinking this might be a job I could have a go at...

But the top mount FAQ has all the pics missing. Sad

Dont suppose anyone has them or a link to a guide on how to do this job

Or anyone that knows the job wanna spend an afternoon helping me do mine while i make tea / pour beers Big grin


I could supply you a pair of genuine pug top mounts inc bearings for

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Posted 20th Feb 2009 at 16:31
justinaccurate

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Post #8
bloody hell greenbelt - fair play Thumbs up

Luke - arent these about 20 quid from gsf? Are the genuine ones that much better? Unsure
Posted 20th Feb 2009 at 17:49
lukejenks101

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Post #9
Dunno, but i paid

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Posted 20th Feb 2009 at 19:35
dr-evil

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Post #10
Don't forget to undo the 18mm on the front of the wishbone so you can move it down off the strut.

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Posted 20th Feb 2009 at 20:38
justinaccurate

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Post #11
In the end I bottled it and had carl do this job. A quick drive round the block and he said it was the drivers side top mount.

To be fair I think its a pretty difficult job to do, after watching him I think I wouldn't have been able to do it.

Carl did it slightly differently to the way in the FAQ. Dunno if i'll get in trouble for giving away trade secrets Ninja He left the caliper and disc on, hammered the hub off the strut, then undid the 3 bolts holding the strut in the engine bay, removed the drop link, then with the strut off he compressed the spring, undid the bolt off the top and swapped over the mount (2 man job to hold it in place and quickly do the nut up a bit)

Even though my springs were replaced at the last MOT, the strut did not want to come free of the hub, I dont think I would be confident whacking away on my car Unsure. Then the drop link died (bolt siezed) and needed to be replaced.

Anyway - problem solved, i'm sure I'll have literally dozens of trouble free motoring miles before the next problem Roll eyes Laugh
Posted 10th Apr 2009 at 13:52
sixygti2

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Post #12
So how long did it take carl to do it all?

I will be atempting this today...i think...and am glad to read you dont have to remove calipers and disks!

Also have balljoints and droplinks to fit too

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Posted 10th Apr 2009 at 13:33
justinaccurate

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Post #13
I suppose it was about 45 mins-1 hour, but the real time saver was that his air gun worked the spring compressor...
Posted 10th Apr 2009 at 13:52
buzzbrightyear

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Post #14
dr-evil wrote:

Are you just replacing the bearing or you buying a 'complete' top mount kit (pugs top mount kit doesn't include the spring pan)


hi, does the spring pan nead changing ????

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Posted 9th Oct 2009 at 17:48
willygti

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Post #15
You don't need to compress the spring before you take the shock off the car.. you can remove the whole shock with top mount as one. Just undo the bolts which clamp the suspenson leg to the hub and pull the hub down Wink

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Posted 10th Apr 2009 at 16:08
phillipm

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Post #16
^That's the way I do it, far quicker.

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Posted 10th Apr 2009 at 16:10
willygti

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Post #17
Amateurs Smug

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Posted 10th Apr 2009 at 16:12
sixygti2

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Post #18
Got this done yesterday, and yes getting everything fixed back onto the shock was indeed a swear fest for me, in the end got the passengers side done ok, with help from a mate, then he left and the drivers side didnt go so well for me.
In the end the whole spring decided to come off so i had to start from scratch. And my mate came back to help again Laugh

Anyway, its all done and just listening out for any more creaks/knocks from it now.

Thanks to everyone who has posted up guides on this work, it made it so much easier for me. Now its done, i can see it is actually quite a straight forward job, but you never know til you do it

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Posted 11th Apr 2009 at 21:35
greenbelt

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Post #19
The first time is always the worst

Next time it will be a doddle and you can take the short cuts the 'experts' suggest Roll eyes

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Posted 12th Apr 2009 at 00:39
sixygti2

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Post #20
Yes

One thing i did notice though when I was trying to attach the pan and top mount to the strut, the strut rod kept dropping under its own weight, which made it quite frustrating when trying to bolt everything on!

Is this normal or is it knackered?

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Posted 12th Apr 2009 at 17:15
daveyboy

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Post #21
Normal unfortunately, was there any oil leaking from the seals?

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Posted 12th Apr 2009 at 17:23
sixygti2

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Post #22
No dont think so. will double check later though.

Where can you buy standard shocks and springs from?

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Posted 12th Apr 2009 at 17:31
jonnie205

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Post #23
yeah i leave caliper and all that on just undo the strut pinch bolt and knock hub off struts, undo drop link and 3 nuts on top mount and its off
Posted 12th Apr 2009 at 17:38
jamie192

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Post #24
i changed my top mount over without even compressing the spring or taking it out. thats an even quicker way to do it, i must be a pro! Razz Didnt take brakes or anything off just the wheel.
Posted 15th Apr 2009 at 16:41
cahillscornerflag

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Post #25
Resurecting an oldish thread... I started replacing the struts and springs after one snapped, for my new billies and eibachs today, I followed this faq as it's related, got to the part where you have to remove the strut from the hub, I 've removed the pinch bolt (b*stard thing) but i cannot for the life of me get the strut out. Am I missing something? Most of you fella's are saying it should just come out with little force, I've had the mallet out and WD40 on it for the best part of the afternoon and still no joy. Is there a specific way to remove the strut? I hope that all made sense as it proper twistin my melon LOL
Knew i should've paid some one to do it.

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Posted 1st May 2009 at 02:10

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