displaying posts 1 to 10 of 10

Author Subject: Under body & wheel arch rust prevention, advice for a beginn
pugfrank

Junior User

Location: Hassocks

Registered: 05 Jul 2019

Posts: 77

Status: Offline

Post #1
So I have finally got on top of a few mechanical bits and due to me soon having to use my 6 for a daily commuter 50 mile round trip for the next 6months which will take me through winter!

I want to pay the underside body/ wheel arches etc some attention. Catch the rust scabs and hollow sounding underseal now.

I'm no welder so if I find extensive rust I will have to get it booked into a professional. I know one of my front jacking points is going to need some tlc with a welder.

But I would like to tackle the surface rust, surface scabby bits myself if possible.

Having never done this before I'm after what products people use to beat the cancer!

I have read DEOX Gel by Bilt hammer is good.

I'm going to start with the wheel arches, removing liners to rub back areas with a wirer brush. Can anyone offer advise to what products and process work well.

Plus any good mail order places for supplies Wire brushes, rust converter, primer & top coat in a can.

Thanks for the help, ill get some photos up soon.
Posted 12th Aug 2020 at 12:31
prism7guy

Seasoned Pro

Location: DoncastAAAAARGH

Registered: 13 Jan 2008

Posts: 4,623

Status: Offline

Post #2
I've used two methods for removing the stone chip on my cars. The first one is slower but tidier and less invasive and thats to use a hot air gun to heat it up then use a scraper to get it off. Sometimes it will come off in nice easy chunks but you're not always so lucky.
The second approach is a knot wheel in an angle grinder, this creates a lot of mess, smoke and noise but it's much quicker.

Deox gel does indeed eat rust, i've used that on anything that i cant soak in the bucket of deox c.
After treating with that and getting the steel as clean as possible i've given mine a coat or two with kurust. It's my first time using it and it was only a couple of months ago so i can't comment on it's long term effectiveness but it seems to behave much like the Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 i used years ago.

After the rust convertor has had its 3 hour window to dry i've coated mine with epoxy primer. I've been using Jotun Jotamastic 87 in Winter grade (i bought winter grade as i was sorting out my car in october/november a couple of years ago and the weather was cold at the time).
I have given the epoxy primer 24 hours to set then abrade it with some 400 grit wet and dry to give the next coating something to stick to, which in my case was U-Pol Gravitex Plus HS. I went for the white variant of this as i was overcoating with red so this should help it look brighter.

After the Gravitex set i went over it with a layer of 2k basecoat (50% basecoat, 50% 2k thinners).
Shortly after i mixed up another batch but also mixed up the same volume of 2k lacquer then mixed them together and sprayed that on. This was once again a bit of a trial run for me being the first time i've done it, the reason i mixed the lacquer and the base coat was i didn't want the finished product to be too glossy like it would have been if i'd done base coat then lacquer as separate coats.
It looks alright since i've done it, and as it's under the car it doesnt really matter anyway but i wanted to try out this way.

I also used countless wire brushes in the drill in the prep stages getting to places where i couldnt get to with the grinder, the brass type wheels are more friendly to the steel but you will go through them pretty quickly. In the end i bought some Bosch steel wire ones from amazon and they're much more agressive on rust and even just ripping the old stone chip off.
Bosch wire wheel clicky - It states they're 30mm but mine came as 50mm, judging by reviews i'm not the only one.

Forgot to mention above, I sealed the seams after the epoxy primer went on and cured. Tiger seal is much neater to use than the brushable stuff, a tip a mate gave me is to use the caulking gun to lay a bead on the seam then use a paintbrush with the bristles cut about half way down dipped in panel wipe to then spread the sealant over the seam. It does make a nice job of it to be fair.


Good luck, this is something i've spent the last few months doing myself and i don't envy you Laugh

________________________________________

Goldie the track car.
Posted 12th Aug 2020 at 17:42
alcon

Senior User

Location: Glasgow

Registered: 19 Jan 2005

Posts: 913

Status: Online

Post #3
prism7guy wrote:
I've used two methods................and i don't envy you Laugh


Very good write up mate, I think a lot of people will find that useful as it guides them through your step by step process as well as listing product names you've used.

Once I finally get mine turned over on it's rotisserie (project thread coming soon!) then I'll be embarking on a similar journey of underseal removal, so thanks for the helpful info.

________________________________________

1999 GTi-6 (china blue)
1999 Rallye (black)
Posted 12th Aug 2020 at 19:41
gnrlee Forum Owner

Location: Leeds

Registered: 20 Aug 2005

Posts: 8,851

Status: Offline

Post #4
Yep that is a good write up Steve

Copy and paste that into a new thread for me and ill move it into the FAQ Section! Thumbs up

________________________________________

Proud Member of the ASTOR Owners Club
Posted 13th Aug 2020 at 20:56
Ben_W

Formerly gpm

Location: Lutterworth

Registered: 01 Sep 2007

Posts: 2,941

Status: Offline

Post #5
The big issue is the entire underside of these cars are covered in an underseal/stone chip type substance. As I've found with my Rallye restoration, this covering can and does look absolutely fine. What's underneath it is often a very different story.

I found a number of rust spots underneath what looked like perfectly good sealant. I can only assume that stones have hit it, created a pinhole, which then let's the water in, although this is invisible to the naked eye. The water then can't get back out, sits against the metal, and invariably begins to rust things.

It's the reason I took it all off mine and I'm honestly glad I did. I used the wire brush on a grinder method mentioned by Steve. Certainly not subtle, but gets the job done and quite quickly. For sections of rust I did find on the body, they either got cutmout and new welded in (bulkhead and stiffener panels) or treated with Bilt Hamber Deox Gel, which does a very good job of removing and rust, leaving bare metal behind.

I haven't got to the point of redoing mine yet by my general plan is going to be to use Bilt Hamber Epoxy Mastic and Seam Sealant. Not sure of the order yet but then plan on going over the lot with 3M flat finish stone chip, before paint. That should pretty much ensure its good to go for a long time and won't rot itself from the inside out.

________________________________________

Cherry Red Rallye .... On going OEM spec resto

China Blue GTi6 .... Weekend toy

Black 208 GTi .... Wife's car now

Silver BMW 550i.... The executive missile

Posted 14th Aug 2020 at 10:52
pugfrank

Junior User

Location: Hassocks

Registered: 05 Jul 2019

Posts: 77

Status: Offline

Post #6
Fantastic thanks for the very descriptive write up. I will start to fill my shopping basket up. It has dawned on me how large a job treating the underside will be. I’m only going to have the weekends to do this, going to have to fit it in around family. Think I will have to sections at a time, maybe not the greatest way but only way I can do it.

Thanks again, I will post up progress pictures and I’m sure I will have questions along the way Smile
Posted 15th Aug 2020 at 07:45
ajmckeane

Regular

Location: Cambridge

Registered: 07 Jul 2010

Posts: 206

Status: Offline

Post #7
What do people think would be the cost of getting a garage to do this?

________________________________________

China's ALIVE !!!
Posted 15th Aug 2020 at 09:59
Ben_W

Formerly gpm

Location: Lutterworth

Registered: 01 Sep 2007

Posts: 2,941

Status: Offline

Post #8
pugfrank wrote:
Fantastic thanks for the very descriptive write up. I will start to fill my shopping basket up. It has dawned on me how large a job treating the underside will be. I’m only going to have the weekends to do this, going to have to fit it in around family. Think I will have to sections at a time, maybe not the greatest way but only way I can do it.

Thanks again, I will post up progress pictures and I’m sure I will have questions along the way Smile


James, have a look at my Rallye restoration thread. Lots of info and pics in there.

________________________________________

Cherry Red Rallye .... On going OEM spec resto

China Blue GTi6 .... Weekend toy

Black 208 GTi .... Wife's car now

Silver BMW 550i.... The executive missile

Posted 15th Aug 2020 at 10:35
deeturbo

Regular

Location: Leighton Buzzard

Registered: 22 Feb 2003

Posts: 283

Status: Offline

Post #9
ajmckeane wrote:
What do people think would be the cost of getting a garage to do this?


The work is very time intensive so I would imagine it to be quite expensive.

Probably best to do it yourself sections at a time.

This is a job I need to do myself but I keep putting it off. Only issue is the longer I leave it the worse it's going to get.
Posted 16th Aug 2020 at 11:22
hovis16

Seasoned Pro

Location: Reading/parts for sale

Registered: 21 Nov 2008

Posts: 4,282

Status: Offline

Post #10
pugfrank wrote:
Fantastic thanks for the very descriptive write up. I will start to fill my shopping basket up. It has dawned on me how large a job treating the underside will be. I’m only going to have the weekends to do this, going to have to fit it in around family. Think I will have to sections at a time, maybe not the greatest way but only way I can do it.

Thanks again, I will post up progress pictures and I’m sure I will have questions along the way Smile


as Ben said this does take a while. I have done three quarters of the underside of my car and it took a week of constant abuse. I would book time off if possible and ensure the weather is good if working outside. The costs do add up once you factor in treatments, primers, sealers paint etc.

Well worth the struggle though. Thumbs up

________________________________________

Ph2 Black GTI 6!

EX black 6 owner
But now a Black caged rallye owner

Hunting for Go faster bits!


SEARCH

click here
Posted 17th Aug 2020 at 08:58

1999 Peugeot 306 Rallye

  • 2000cc
  • White
  • 159,336 miles

£1,500

Location: Stoke

All times are GMT. The time is now 13:22

The Peugeot GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club Ltd - Registered in England & Wales - Reg No: 07410694 - ©2022 all rights reserved.

Please Note : The views and opinions found herein are those of individuals, and not of The Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club Ltd or any individuals involved.
No responsibility is taken or assumed for any comments or statements made on, or in relation to, this website. Please see our updated privacy policy and legal information