I've used two methods for removing the stone chip on my cars. The first one is slower but tidier and less invasive and thats to use a hot air gun to heat it up then use a scraper to get it off. Sometimes it will come off in nice easy chunks but you're not always so lucky.
The second approach is a knot wheel in an angle grinder, this creates a lot of mess, smoke and noise but it's much quicker.
Deox gel does indeed eat rust, i've used that on anything that i cant soak in the bucket of deox c.
After treating with that and getting the steel as clean as possible i've given mine a coat or two with kurust. It's my first time using it and it was only a couple of months ago so i can't comment on it's long term effectiveness but it seems to behave much like the Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 i used years ago.
After the rust convertor has had its 3 hour window to dry i've coated mine with epoxy primer. I've been using Jotun Jotamastic 87 in Winter grade (i bought winter grade as i was sorting out my car in october/november a couple of years ago and the weather was cold at the time).
I have given the epoxy primer 24 hours to set then abrade it with some 400 grit wet and dry to give the next coating something to stick to, which in my case was U-Pol Gravitex Plus HS. I went for the white variant of this as i was overcoating with red so this should help it look brighter.
After the Gravitex set i went over it with a layer of 2k basecoat (50% basecoat, 50% 2k thinners).
Shortly after i mixed up another batch but also mixed up the same volume of 2k lacquer then mixed them together and sprayed that on. This was once again a bit of a trial run for me being the first time i've done it, the reason i mixed the lacquer and the base coat was i didn't want the finished product to be too glossy like it would have been if i'd done base coat then lacquer as separate coats.
It looks alright since i've done it, and as it's under the car it doesnt really matter anyway but i wanted to try out this way.
I also used countless wire brushes in the drill in the prep stages getting to places where i couldnt get to with the grinder, the brass type wheels are more friendly to the steel but you will go through them pretty quickly. In the end i bought some Bosch steel wire ones from amazon and they're much more agressive on rust and even just ripping the old stone chip off.
Bosch wire wheel clicky
- It states they're 30mm but mine came as 50mm, judging by reviews i'm not the only one.
Forgot to mention above, I sealed the seams after the epoxy primer went on and cured. Tiger seal is much neater to use than the brushable stuff, a tip a mate gave me is to use the caulking gun to lay a bead on the seam then use a paintbrush with the bristles cut about half way down dipped in panel wipe to then spread the sealant over the seam. It does make a nice job of it to be fair.
Good luck, this is something i've spent the last few months doing myself and i don't envy you
________________________________________Goldie the track car.