displaying posts 26 to 31 of 31

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Author Subject: Respray or wrap?
barrym

Senior User

Location: Westcliff-on-sea

Registered: 26 Jun 2014

Posts: 502

Status: Offline

Post #26
Where's Wally?

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China D Turbo HDi daily charger
Black Rallye occassional toy
Posted 30th May 2017 at 19:27
oliverharveyuk@hotmail.co.uk

Regular

Location: Banbury

Registered: 16 Feb 2016

Posts: 231

Status: Offline

Post #27
Yep if your gonna sticker bomb gotta do it properly... No wally unfortunately but there is a panda hitting another panda with a steel chair Smile

Here is it on the car quite happy with it tbh, gonna be painting the badge black so it blends a little better...



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98 Blaze 6 - Current
Posted 31st May 2017 at 10:07
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #28
Your bonnet in the first pic looks like mine does - slightly different colour and paint crazing. This is probably because back in the day a dealer would get a cheap bonnet respray done to tidy the car up for sale, get rid of stone chips etc. Initially looked nice but over time with engine heat, sun etc the paint crazes probably because the respray layer paint type is incompatible with the original paint underneath.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 1st Jun 2017 at 07:37
oliverharveyuk@hotmail.co.uk

Regular

Location: Banbury

Registered: 16 Feb 2016

Posts: 231

Status: Offline

Post #29
Yeah it doesn't look like typical peel as it's all over the bonnet, this is basically what I have to sort:





Gonna sand it back, then primer, base and clear, never painted before but feeling like i can't make it look any worse

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98 Blaze 6 - Current
Posted 1st Jun 2017 at 10:39
ale624

Regular

Location: bristol

Registered: 02 May 2016

Posts: 173

Status: Offline

Post #30
Make sure you prep before paint! get some decent wax and grease remover, and go over everything twice.

sand to 240grit max before primer, otherwise it wont stick. minimum of 140 grit, or you'll end up with scratch marks embedded in the paint.

do not use spray cans for horizontal surfaces like the roof, it will spatter and look like utter s**t. get a small compressor and a small gun, and do lots of light coats, shouldn't cost too much.

thinnest coat should be your base coat and thickest should be your clear. you can wet sand out any imperfections in your clearcoat and primer, but do not sand your basecoat.

oh, and dont f**king touch it for like 3 days at least.
Posted 1st Jun 2017 at 14:56
oliverharveyuk@hotmail.co.uk

Regular

Location: Banbury

Registered: 16 Feb 2016

Posts: 231

Status: Offline

Post #31
Thanks for the info mate any idea on a good place to get a cheap gun, was planning on doing a can job then wetsand and polish after...

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98 Blaze 6 - Current
Posted 1st Jun 2017 at 15:41

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