displaying posts 26 to 41 of 41

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Author Subject: Central Locking Not Working
mocinim

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Post #26
oliverharveyuk@hotmail.co.uk wrote:
Yeah I really like my car so thats not an option. Is it possible to swap the boot central locking mechanism for a key lock off an older module? Just wondering


Would take some bypassing of the lock and not sure it woul fit the hole but would be possible
Would be easier to fix the fault

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BLACK RALLYE - phoenix
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Posted 9th Mar 2016 at 23:39
oliverharveyuk@hotmail.co.uk

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Post #27
Cully is kindly sending the looms tonight so I can have a go when I get a free weekend.

Hopefully this will work wonders if I don't balls it up Smile

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98 Blaze 6 - Current
Posted 10th Mar 2016 at 10:43
mocinim

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Post #28
Draw the set of pins on your original label each one buzz each one out to confirm then repin the new before you dismantle the old

When buzzing out dont cut through the wire stright just take a nik of the wire sheath and buzz it the label it (use marker if required)

Probably obvious but will allow you to double check everything youll find many of the wires are the same colour take a marker pen draw sets of lines if the wire numbers are not clear e.g 1line red 1 2lines red 2 etc
Draw everything you see pics can also help

Easy to get fluffed with wiring if not used to it once you get going youll be fine it is easy leave fair amounts spare wire pull the extra back into the body not in the cavity space
One thing to consider when putting in the new gaitor loosen your carpet for access will help alot
Another is the door switch for the interiour light can be fiddly wire shorter than the others and cones out the side of the gaitior

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BLACK RALLYE - phoenix
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http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/

https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history
Posted 10th Mar 2016 at 14:26
oliverharveyuk@hotmail.co.uk

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Post #29
Got to admit I'm pretty nervous. Just plenty of prep and don't rush sounds like the best way. My plan is to mark door catch locations with tape so when I put the door back on I know how it fits, take door off, carefully cut the rubber gaiter off, check pins on new and old loom are in matching positions, write down 'pin number>colour cable + thickness' then same with cables coming from the car, then cut, solder and heatshrink each cable individually to the new loom. Carefully push excess back into the car, door back on and test all the bits and bobs and hopefully I'm all good with everything working as it should. If not all well I quietly weep while wishing I had bought something German....

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98 Blaze 6 - Current
Posted 10th Mar 2016 at 15:38
cully

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Post #30
dont rub the cables the numbers will come off,
dont rely on colour matching peugeot use numbers Wink
Posted 10th Mar 2016 at 17:26
cully

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Post #31
get some plumbers flux as if you have black copper normal flux cored solder wont be aggresive enough to clean and tin the black corroded copper, use a hot iron 25-30 watts minimum
Posted 10th Mar 2016 at 17:30
oliverharveyuk@hotmail.co.uk

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Post #32
Yeah I wasn't going to rely on colour matching. I was going to map the pin outs of the loom you are sending, write down which pin connects to which colour cable and its thickness. Then match the current pins to the colour cable.

E.g New loom:
pin 1 > green thick
pin 2 > red thin

E.g Current loom:
pin 1 > blue thick
pin 2 > orange thin

So eventually I have:

pin 1 = green thick > blue thick
pin 2 = red thin > orange thin

I will grab some of that plumbers flux thanks for the heads up.

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98 Blaze 6 - Current
Posted 11th Mar 2016 at 10:10
cully

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Post #33
the first one i did was on my old estate i used a repair loom from peugeot so the numbers didnt match so had to bell every wire out

i did a guide when i did this first time Wink
http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=11512

ive repaired my gti6 loom which worked for a period but have since replaced the loom with another peugeot repair loom as it broke a defferent wire, this is where i came across the black corroded copper issue and had to get over it with the plumbers flux
Posted 11th Mar 2016 at 12:56
mocinim

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Post #34
Take the bolts of the hinge centre and lift the door dont undo the hinge plates

Bolt under the rubber caps in the centre or the hinge
This will avoid the need to re align the door will just slot on and off
Also of course the slot pin for the door restrict just tap it out unscrew the electrical connector before attempting door removal

And mind the door skin on the wing Smile

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BLACK RALLYE - phoenix
WHITE RALLYE - valliant

http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/

https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history
Posted 11th Mar 2016 at 13:04
cully

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Post #35
Also of course the slot pin just tap it out (ph3 are riveted not roll pined Wink )

dont do this as the slide will disapear inside the door
undo the two 6mm/10mm headed bolts and remove the fixing plate on the A pillar
Posted 11th Mar 2016 at 13:06
mocinim

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Post #36
cully wrote:
the first one i did was on my old estate i used a repair loom from peugeot so the numbers didnt match so had to bell every wire out

i did a guide when i did this first time Wink
http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=11512

ive repaired my gti6 loom which worked for a period but have since replaced the loom with another peugeot repair loom as it broke a defferent wire, this is where i came across the black corroded copper issue and had to get over it with the plumbers flux


Superb guide cully follow this mate you wont go wrong
Should be a faq on here

________________________________________

BLACK RALLYE - phoenix
WHITE RALLYE - valliant

http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/

https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history
Posted 11th Mar 2016 at 13:09
mocinim

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Post #37
cully wrote:
Also of course the slot pin just tap it out (ph3 are riveted not roll pined Wink )

dont do this as the slide will disapear inside the door
undo the two 6mm/10mm headed bolts and remove the fixing plate on the A pillar


Didnt give me issues but is fair advice just pulled mine back out

________________________________________

BLACK RALLYE - phoenix
WHITE RALLYE - valliant

http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/

https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history
Posted 11th Mar 2016 at 13:11
oliverharveyuk@hotmail.co.uk

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Post #38
Cool fancy doing mine, 5 minute job with all that experience Wink looking under the gater at the broken and worn cables the copper seems in pretty good nick but i havn't had a decent look. So ill get some just in case.

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98 Blaze 6 - Current
Posted 11th Mar 2016 at 13:15
oliverharveyuk@hotmail.co.uk

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Post #39
Thanks for the hint with the door to, these tips are gonna save me so much time!

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98 Blaze 6 - Current
Posted 11th Mar 2016 at 13:30
cully

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Post #40
oliverharveyuk@hotmail.co.uk wrote:
Cool fancy doing mine, 5 minute job with all that experience Wink .


yes sure id do it Thumbs up but im miles away LOL
still took me 3-4 hours for a complete loom plug change including cups of tea/beer it was bitterly cold though
Posted 11th Mar 2016 at 14:54
Mark-Stranraer

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Location: Stranraer

Registered: 20 Sep 2023

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Post #41
Can anyone help me?

This thread relates to my problems..

My head is completely burst,

Basically all the wires in my door shut (drivers side have been chewed)

306 Gti 6 phase 1 (1996)

I managed to get a good plug and wires all the way from Denmark!

(Wires are different colours for the pins but managed to buzz them..

I'm left with 2 red, 2 whites, 2 light browns.. no trace, no numbers...

I have everything working apart from central locking!

Anyone have a wiring diagram??

I've hunted high and low through all forums.

Tryed to look at "Cullys" post on 306oc but the photos are deleted?


Any help would be greatly appreciated 👍🏻
Posted 20th Sep 2023 at 22:33

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