My reason for taking apart a perfectly good car is i want experience and knowledge,
my excuse is rubber ages, parts rust, things break.

this car lived the first 14 years of its life near the coast and that salt, and age is showing,
at least in my unprofessional opinion.

the current plan is:

- Brake pads
- brake rotors
- clean / paint hubs, hammerite?
- clean / paint calipers, hammerite?
- wishbones
- poly bushes all over
- lower ball joints
- drop links
- SPAX RSX, suspension should have got more knowledge before getting these /?
- inner / outer tie rods
- remove / clean sump... i know the alternator
- remove spare tire and cage
- clean / paint under body, hammerite?
- remove / clean / paint rear bars, hammerite?
- Poly shock stops
- Poly Rear Beam Mount Tensioning Kit
- SPAX RSX rear shocks
- oil, air, fuel filters
- spark plugs

probably more..... if anyone has something i should / must add to this list please please tell me.
how do you add multiple photos? all i see is the single photo upload option.

as seen below CV and Hub being held up by jack and supported by some rope.

shabusta has attached the following image:

work to be done, remove remove remove.

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from top left, Meyle outer tie rods, drop links, inner tie rods, on wish bone is Meyle, the other is Swag.

can anyone tell me how to get the bushes out / off?

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First thing i did was get lower and upper strut braces, they made a huge difference to body role.
not sure if this was just them or because i don't have much rubber left on the bushes.

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I got that same suspension kit. Works well. Just don't have them on max hard setting as you may as well use solid bar...

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See the sheer power and might of the lesser known burrowing owl.

Thats not rust thats just some brown stuff collecting here and there i took my brake shields off mine when i first got it didnt need to un bolt anything they just fell away when i looked at them

Looks pretty good down there looks like an original back box as well

Are you oe shocks bilsten b4 (black ones)

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BLACK RALLYE - phoenix
WHITE RALLYE - valliant

http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/

https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

Are the bottom of the struts domed or are they inset
peugeot ones look like one piece dome bilstein look like inserted welded caps at the bottom

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BLACK RALLYE - phoenix
WHITE RALLYE - valliant

http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/

https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

They dont look like peugeot ones to me not a pro on the various different models but they do look alot like my b4 bilstein ones there slightly better than peugeot i get better stability have tried a few reacon there the best whilst keeping it looking original as in not lowering it

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BLACK RALLYE - phoenix
WHITE RALLYE - valliant

http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/

https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

That's got to be the cleanest original rear disk shield I've ever seen.

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread

First step would be to get a power washer and clean all the grime off underneath so you can see what you have got and go from there.

The 306 is mostly galvanised underneath (with the exception of some of the chassis rails) so it doesn't rust easily. You can tell it is galvanised as the paint flaking off on wheel arch lips, big stone chips etc has a grey colour underneath with a whitish powdery substance which is zinc oxide (it sacrifices itself to protect the steel). You don't use road salt in Oz which is hugely damaging to cars here in the UK, so your car will not have much rust unless it has spent time parked in the sea.

One thing to watch is underseal, rust can start underneath if it is falling off through age or damage, and the underseal traps water and keeps the metal wet which speeds up the rusting process. Best to remove unsound underseal (i.e. stuff that is bubbled and moves if you prod it), clean up and reseal with new stuff.

The best way to deal with rust is to clean it off back to bare metal using rust removal gel and a drill with a wire brush in it or similar, and then paint it with zinc primer. This is time-consuming and can be a pain in areas underneath with limited access. Once the zinc primer has gone off overpaint with your choice of top coat. In my case I used stone chip paint and body colour enamel over the top of that. Check out my project thread and many others for details. Zinc primer really works - I bought new disc protectors 3 years ago and painted them with zinc primer and silver over the top. I removed one last week and it is totally clean with no rust on it at all.

Once the paint etc has well cured you could spray clear wax over the entire underside and engine bay. I did this and also sprayed cavity wax in the box sections, chassis rails and sills. Not sure whether you would need to bother with that in your climate, maybe if the car is not garaged.

The only other reason you might get rust is through idiots jacking the car in the wrong place. This caves in the box section and/or dents the floor as the French metal is thin and the floor is not designed to support the weight of the car. The paint will be breached, rust will get a foothold and it will not be long before you get a hole. I rant about this regularly! Only jack the car on the front subframe, rear axle tube or the reinforced sill jacking points. There is a particular place where people love jacking the 306 which looks nice and strong but isn't at all. Quite a few 306s (including mine) have had these box sections repaired for that reason.

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Cherry Rallye SOLD

continuing on my path of destruction, I finally (almost) have the wish bone off the left side!!!

does anyone have advice for getting the main bolt off of the rear bush?
either my wrench was too big or i just cant manage to fit it over the nut under and over the 'K' frame.

to my main problem, the front bolt, from memory i am stuck in the middle,
the ratchet just keeps spinning the bolt but no progression, any tips on how to get this one out,
this wouldn't be a problem if i didn't have the lower strut brace.

and for bonus marks any tips for removing the right side bolt, using a CV joint on the ratchet i got to the same issue,
but the sump will get in the way again... and i really do not want to remove the sump... yet.

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any tips on getting a grip on the bolt? no idea what i can fit into the braces tube, or something to grab the exposed bit?

Victory!!!! but not without its mistakes and to be a little ashamed...

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