displaying posts 1 to 19 of 19

Author Subject: DTA E48 base map
prism7guy

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Post #1
Does anybody have a base map for a DTA E48 ecu which they would be kind enough to share with me?
I've emailed DTA themselves but apparently my engine isn't supported Dunno

For reference it's just a standard engine, I just want to stick a base map on to check the ecu and wiring work fine.

Thanks. Smile

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Goldie the track car.
Posted 30th Jun 2015 at 23:38
allanallen

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Location: Buxton

Registered: 01 May 2007

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Post #2
Try one for a red top or a Zetec Steve Wink

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Posted 1st Jul 2015 at 06:55
RallyeP6

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Location: West Byfleet

Registered: 11 Jul 2013

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Post #3
My engine is on throttle bodies, and wasted spark coil, everything else is standard. Can let you have some of my parameters if that helps. Though you will have to adjust for throttle position/map columns etc.
Posted 1st Jul 2015 at 11:35
phillipm

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Post #4
Just load one of the generic 2 litre maps and go through setting up coil drivers, triggers, etc. Won't take long, you'll have to fiddle the fuel up and down anyway to get it to fire up and it'll be close enough for that so long as you're not running on it.

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Posted 21st Aug 2015 at 13:42
prism7guy

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Post #5
Just been out trying to get it started. Now i've replaced the transistor the injectors seem to be refusing to do anything, so i'm beginning to think it could now be an issue with whatever tells the transistor to open. Dunno

It's a big ask but if anyone local with an e48 fancies letting me try theirs to see if i can get the car to live it'd be ideal, or try mine on their car with their map, would take some of the guesswork out of it i guess.

I've plugged two sets of injectors in with them out of the rail and tried the test injectors/coil feature in dtawin, none of the injectors seem to do anything, they all see +12v on one pin but never seem to ground on the other, i've even tried a light bulb plugged into one of the injector plugs in test mode to see if it would flash but still nothing. Doh

Reckon i'm going to have to send the ecu off and have it tested/fixed. Hopefully it's fixable as the entire loom was made to suit an e48 and cost a fair amount to make, i'll be buggered if i'm chopping it up now to suit a different ecu Laugh

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Posted 21st Aug 2015 at 19:19
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #6
you'll only need to swap the plug if you bung S40 on it...

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Posted 21st Aug 2015 at 19:25
RallyeP6

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Post #7
What do you mean when you say you have replaced the transistor?, is your ignition coil firing also when you do the diagnostic test. There are two earth wires on the E48 socket, see if you can just connect them directly to the battery negative. As long as you have +12 on one of the injector wires of the plug the negative side will be pulsed when you run the diagnostic test.
Posted 22nd Aug 2015 at 23:06
prism7guy

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Post #8
I opened up the ecu and worked out that pin 22 on the connector leads to a transistor.
As far as i'm aware a transistor is kind of a bit like a relay in terms of it only requires a small current to then allow a higher current flow through, i.e. allow the circuit to complete for the injectors. I tested the resistance on the transistor and it had a low resistance between pin 22 and pins 12 & 13 (ECU earths).
This basically meant that the injectors were constantly open before hand, even with the ecu disconnected from the loom.

To check i traced pin 21 to the transistor to the left of the one used for main injector control and that wouldnt allow current through at all (This transistor is used for a second set of injectors if they are being used).

From doing the above tests i simply assumed that the transistor used for 'Injectors 1' was dodgy so i got the model number, searched online and bought an identical one, when it arrived i removed the old transistor and soldered in the replacement. I tested the resistance between pins 22 and 12/13 and there was complete resistance according to my multimeter.

I then put the ecu back together, stuck it in the car and tried the diagnostic test again, this time there seems to be nothing from the injectors (previously there was nothing happening with the injectors, but they got very hot after a short period of time as there was constant current running though them).

The ignition coil is firing when i do the diagnostic test so that side of the ecu appears to be fine.

Pins 12 & 13 (ECU earth pins) are grounded fine, and the switched live to one side of the injectors on the loom is showing 12V when i have the ignition on and the multimeter pushed against that pin and the other lead against anything that is grounded such as the block.

Hopefully the above makes sense.

All the sensors appear to be showing correct readings, i've had the dials up in dta win and blown into the map sensor which detects a rise in pressure, the tps sensor registers movement and i've set the closed and fully open positions for it.

I've just had a thought, i might try connecting the injectors to pin 21 and running the diagnostics test again, if the injectors then activate i'll know it's an issue inside the ecu rather than my wiring.

Just for reference i've tried two sets of injectors now, the standard iw204's which are known to be working, and my bosch 440cc ones that i'm going to be using once it's up and running.

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Goldie the track car.
Posted 22nd Aug 2015 at 23:53
luke306rallye

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Post #9
Just to add the 440cc injectors definitely work Steve.
Posted 23rd Aug 2015 at 09:35
prism7guy

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Post #10
Yeah i knew they would, I've checked the resistance of them too after they got pretty warm from being turned on so long and they still appear to be fine.

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Goldie the track car.
Posted 23rd Aug 2015 at 10:31
welshpug!

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Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #11
quote:
the injectors were constantly open before hand, even with the ecu disconnected from the loom.


erm. there's a problem with the wiring then?!

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Posted 23rd Aug 2015 at 10:39
prism7guy

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Post #12
Sorry, I worded that badly, I meant the pins on the ecu between the earth (12&13) and the injectors (22) had very little resistance meaning the injectors would be held open even if the ecu didn't see a +12v supply.

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Goldie the track car.
Posted 23rd Aug 2015 at 11:14
phillipm

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Post #13
Switch twin injectors on and wire the injectors to set 2 (outputs 5-8)?

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Posted 23rd Aug 2015 at 11:44
prism7guy

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Post #14
That's my next plan. Just got to fix the red car first as I need that to get about in Laugh

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Goldie the track car.
Posted 23rd Aug 2015 at 11:58
prism7guy

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Post #15
Right, just turned twin injectors on, swapped the injector wire from pin 22 to 21 (injectors 5-8) ran the test sequence and all the injectors activate no problems.

I think I need to send the ecu off for dta to have a look at unless anyone else has any suggestions? Dunno

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Goldie the track car.
Posted 23rd Aug 2015 at 19:31
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #16
if that's all you did and it worked then yeah there's something in there that needs fixing, or use it like that.

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Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 23rd Aug 2015 at 19:59
RallyeP6

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Post #17
Well, if the transistor went short circuit and held the injectors open, it may have blown a low value high power resistor somewhere also. Check the resistors around the transistor that went, or even a fusible resistor. Never taken the cover off my one, its been super reliable for the past 15 years.
Posted 23rd Aug 2015 at 20:51
phillipm

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Post #18
If it's shorted it may have spiked the gate side, what's upstream of the transistor, signal and feed side?

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Posted 23rd Aug 2015 at 21:08
prism7guy

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Post #19


Second one in from the left is the injector transistor, the one on the very left is for the second set of injectors.

I would run the ecu using the injectors being controlled as the second set of injectors, but looking in dtawin i dont think i'd ever get the engine started as the minimum throttle position for the transition is 5%, or the minimum engine speed is 2000rpm.

I think i'm going to box the ecu up tonight and get it sent special delivery to dta tomorrow, hopefully get it sorted properly as my soldering iron is now playing up and i'm fed up of wasting time with unknowns, at least this way it should be returned in a known working condition and should hopefully be alright to get my engine started. Smile

Thanks for the input everyone Thumbs up

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Goldie the track car.
Posted 23rd Aug 2015 at 21:15

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