displaying posts 1 to 12 of 12

Author Subject: Bilt Hamber
darrengti

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Registered: 23 Jan 2007

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Post #1
My rallye is undergoing a very slow restoration at present. Over the weekend I bare metaled two of the arches and painted on two coats of Bilt Hamber zinc primer. All looked nice and primed until today I noticed that there is water sitting on top of the primer in places, its like the rust is sweating through the primer. Anyone else had similar experiences?
Posted 23rd Feb 2012 at 21:44
matt evans

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Location: Stourbridge

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Post #2
Did you get all the rust off with Deox C or Deox Gel before painting? Or rub down and prime over it?

Bilt hamber stuff is good but you're best of stripping the rust off with deox, then couple of coats of hydrate 80 before primering i've found.

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Posted 23rd Feb 2012 at 21:51
mik

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Post #3
No, I find Bilt Hamber Electrox primer excellent. I've done my rear arches and the boot floor. Water is most likely condensation, which can occur inside garages at this time of year.

A fence at work was painted with zinc and the rust does not travel beyond the zinc as it stops steel rusting by being a sacrificial anode, one of the best rust stopping methods and used by Pug when the 306 was new. After the zinc is all corroded away the steel will start rusting. You can see this effect on the 306 wheel arch edges where the zinc is slowly corroding away inwards from the edge of the paint, but the steel does not rust for a long time.

While strictly you do not have to remove all the rust for Electrox to work, it will last a lot longer and make a much better job if you do.

To elaborate slightly on Matt said, use a wire brush/fibre wheel in a drill and get as much rust as possible off, use de-ox gel to dissolve remaining rust and get the metal clean, then use hydrate 80 to convert any rust specks remaining in pits, seams, corners etc and put the Electrox over the top of this.

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Posted 23rd Feb 2012 at 22:37
phillipm

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Post #4
The electrox should go straight to bare steel, not over H80, or it won't do it's job.

If the temperature of the panel is low when you were applying it, condensation on the panel will bleed through paint, 's why most paints recommend not applying below ~10*c

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Posted 24th Feb 2012 at 01:03
darrengti

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Post #5
phillipm wrote:
The electrox should go straight to bare steel, not over H80, or it won't do it's job.

If the temperature of the panel is low when you were applying it, condensation on the panel will bleed through paint, 's why most paints recommend not applying below ~10*c


Its probably what you said then Phil. Did it last weekend when it was a bit nippy out, I do live on Dartmoor! Its worried me a little though as the damp has come through on the areas I know were rusty. In time I will probably sand down and reapply the Bilt Hamber.

My surface prep was a silicon carbide (I think) disc on my drill. Took everything down to bare metal. I didn't use any chemicals though so there was possbile some rust particles hiding in the pitted areas.
Posted 24th Feb 2012 at 13:18
russbez

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Post #6
make sure its applied above 10deg
edit:as other said .... any painting in general!

i found out this the hard way Yes

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Posted 24th Feb 2012 at 13:21
darrengti

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Post #7
russbez wrote:
make sure its applied above 10deg
edit:as other said .... any painting in general!

i found out this the hard way Yes


What happened Russ...?
Posted 24th Feb 2012 at 13:31
welshpug!

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Post #8
not much LOL

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Posted 24th Feb 2012 at 13:53
beez_neez_gt

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Post #9
For a start that primer will take 10% surface rust and still work and for second its best to key the clean steel with 300 grade wet and dry, so it sticks well without it scratching off via finger nail in my experience. Its also ok to use it on top of other primers too if its keyed well enough.

Hydrate 80 is pretty rubbish tbh, you have to be precise when doing it all, clean n oxidise surface prep else rust will come through again. I get rid of rust totally is the best way.

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Posted 24th Feb 2012 at 16:14
mik

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Post #10
Yes, I should have mentioned that after using any rust converter need to sand back to bare keyed metal again to provide proper surface for primer.

Rust converters in general can't cope with large amounts of rust, they are best used only as a belt and braces measure after mechanically removing 98%+ of it with a chisel, drill brush or wheel.

They are only good to catch small amounts otherwise they just sit on the surface and leave the rust underneath, and if left even for relatively short periods before sanding back/priming will get flash rust on rust converted areas.

I'm waiting for warmer weather before I get stuck into the front of my car.

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Posted 24th Feb 2012 at 16:46
phillipm

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Post #11
May as well use De-ox rather than hydrate 80 in that case...

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Posted 24th Feb 2012 at 16:51
mik

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Post #12
phillipm wrote:
May as well use De-ox rather than hydrate 80 in that case...


Good point.

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Posted 4th Mar 2012 at 12:20

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