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Author Subject: Castrol GTX 10-40
csm

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Location: East Linton

Registered: 22 Nov 2011

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Post #1
Anybody use the old school castrol gtx range in there gti6s ?

Its part synthetic 10-40

Asda selling it for £10
Posted 11th Dec 2011 at 12:41
aaron6

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Post #2
Used to use it in my old 6. Was fine mate. Smile

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Posted 11th Dec 2011 at 14:57
csm

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Post #3
Nice one

Aint gonna beat £10 thats for sure
Posted 11th Dec 2011 at 15:27
aaron6

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Post #4
For 5 litres? If so, thats good.

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Posted 11th Dec 2011 at 15:40
123456

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Post #5
Used Tesco's fully synthetic 5-40 LOL

Although engine sounds sweet.

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Posted 11th Dec 2011 at 19:02
dangti6

aka JKshooter

Location: Taunton, Somerset

Registered: 15 Jun 2006

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Post #6
They did it on magnetec earlier in the year. 4l containers

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  • Posted 11th Dec 2011 at 19:37
    csm

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    Post #7
    Yeah castrol are 4ltr containers

    How much does a gti6 take inc filter ?
    Posted 12th Dec 2011 at 08:08
    bennn

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    Location: Shrewsbury

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    Post #8
    You'll need 5 litres IIRC

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    Posted 13th Dec 2011 at 13:49
    matt evans

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    Post #9
    I assume a GTX would be ok to run a new engine in on for the first 500 miles or so? Then change to the propper Pug Quartz 7000 stuff?

    ________________________________________

    1999 Astor Grey GTi-6 OEM+ (now gone...)
    2004 Aegean Blue 206 GTi 180 (also gone...)
    2006 Skoda Fabia vRS in Sprint Yellow

    honestly3k wrote:
    Do you wrestle for a living matt? You sound like a monster LOL


    owain wrote:
    Nothing involving a 306 can be considered worthwhile.

    Posted 13th Dec 2011 at 14:55
    dangti6

    aka JKshooter

    Location: Taunton, Somerset

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    Post #10
    4 litres will take you to the Min mark IIRC.

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  • Posted 13th Dec 2011 at 15:03
    aaron6

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    Post #11
    4.2l to fill. Quartz is cheap anyway. Just serviced mine and the pug filter and 7000 came to £28. Smile

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    Posted 13th Dec 2011 at 15:13
    bennn

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    Post #12
    matt evans wrote:
    I assume a GTX would be ok to run a new engine in on for the first 500 miles or so? Then change to the propper Pug Quartz 7000 stuff?


    Out of curiosity why would you run it in on a different oil? Surely the GTI-6's were just filled with the normal stuff from brand new?

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    Posted 13th Dec 2011 at 15:16
    matt evans

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    Post #13
    bennn wrote:
    matt evans wrote:
    I assume a GTX would be ok to run a new engine in on for the first 500 miles or so? Then change to the propper Pug Quartz 7000 stuff?


    Out of curiosity why would you run it in on a different oil? Surely the GTI-6's were just filled with the normal stuff from brand new?


    They would. But as im gonna drop it after 500 miles, just wanted to see if the gtx would be ok for the first period.

    In the old days ive used propper running in mineral oil for the first 200 miles, then semi for the next 500, then fully synthetic from then on. That was in the old days of big power RS ford engine builds.

    ________________________________________

    1999 Astor Grey GTi-6 OEM+ (now gone...)
    2004 Aegean Blue 206 GTi 180 (also gone...)
    2006 Skoda Fabia vRS in Sprint Yellow

    honestly3k wrote:
    Do you wrestle for a living matt? You sound like a monster LOL


    owain wrote:
    Nothing involving a 306 can be considered worthwhile.

    Posted 13th Dec 2011 at 16:05
    bennn

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    Post #14
    matt evans wrote:


    They would. But as im gonna drop it after 500 miles, just wanted to see if the gtx would be ok for the first period.

    In the old days ive used propper running in mineral oil for the first 200 miles, then semi for the next 500, then fully synthetic from then on. That was in the old days of big power RS ford engine builds.


    I see. How come you are supposed to use mineral oil to run engines in sometimes?

    ________________________________________

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    Posted 13th Dec 2011 at 16:22
    matt evans

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    Post #15
    They allow more bedding in of the components. Eg if you were to run a fresh build cossie engine in on mobil 1 fully synthetic, the bores would glaze up because the oil is arguably too good, not allowing enough bedding in.

    ________________________________________

    1999 Astor Grey GTi-6 OEM+ (now gone...)
    2004 Aegean Blue 206 GTi 180 (also gone...)
    2006 Skoda Fabia vRS in Sprint Yellow

    honestly3k wrote:
    Do you wrestle for a living matt? You sound like a monster LOL


    owain wrote:
    Nothing involving a 306 can be considered worthwhile.

    Posted 13th Dec 2011 at 17:23
    csm

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    Post #16
    Thought i recognized your user name from passionford matey

    Im ex cossie owner aswell
    Posted 13th Dec 2011 at 18:18
    BrianM

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    Post #17
    this is something i need to be sure on actually. Is it defo part synthetic for gti 6 engines?

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    Posted 13th Dec 2011 at 19:11
    aaron6

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    Post #18
    Yeah, 10/40 semi synthetic is what iv always used with no problems at all. Smile

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    Posted 13th Dec 2011 at 20:26
    bigbadbowen

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    Location: Winchester

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    Post #19
    6 engine never came with fully synth I always use semi synth 10w 40. Using castrol Gtx as we speak and it's fine Yes

    Posted 13th Dec 2011 at 20:43
    BrianM

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    Post #20
    great! cheers for the re-assurance!

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    '13 208 Gti Bianca White, '99 Bianca 306 Rallye, '92 309 Goodwood GTi 5dr, '92 Miami Blue 309 GTi 3dr.
    Posted 13th Dec 2011 at 20:49
    matt evans

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    Post #21
    Yes Brian, Semi FTW!

    ________________________________________

    1999 Astor Grey GTi-6 OEM+ (now gone...)
    2004 Aegean Blue 206 GTi 180 (also gone...)
    2006 Skoda Fabia vRS in Sprint Yellow

    honestly3k wrote:
    Do you wrestle for a living matt? You sound like a monster LOL


    owain wrote:
    Nothing involving a 306 can be considered worthwhile.

    Posted 13th Dec 2011 at 21:49
    123456

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    Post #22
    GTX is crap end of.

    I'm not saying you engine will blow up right away give it time LOL

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    Posted 13th Dec 2011 at 22:25
    mattgti6phase2

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    Location: inside my 6 abusing the tarmac!!

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    Post #23
    i use total quartz 9000 fully synthetic 5w40. amazing oil and good protection for the winter. its also lasts longer and takes more abuse than the semi.

    Semi oil for a semi engine. fully synthetic FTW!!!!

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    Team Nile 6 Superman
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    Posted 13th Dec 2011 at 23:38
    bennn

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    Post #24
    I used to use mobil 1 0w/40 FS purely because it warmed up so quickly. Used to take a good 15-20 mins before the oil was up to temperature on 10w/40.

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    Posted 14th Dec 2011 at 09:48
    mattgti6phase2

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    Post #25
    Oil will generally take longer to warm up in these conditions anyway. I religiously let mine warm for 10 mins before i drive it and it doesnt go above 2-2.5k until the oil is at least upto 70/80oc. Also in these conditions it's hard to judge when the oil is hot enough, I have the nissens rad with no A/C so better airflow and i find i can drive the car for ages and the temp won't even reach 90oc! pretty good oil cooler as standard the 6/rallye has.

    I've seen people talking of letting the engine warm up for 5 or 10 mins can harm them, complete and utter bo***cks! I rather not push that cold oil around my block at higher rpm than idle. Nothin is stressed from idle. Plus the 5w/10w/15w etc bit in an oil grade means winter. Eg 5w means the oil will protect from 5oc.

    ________________________________________

    Team Nile 6 Superman
    Team: 40.2 MPG Smile
    5 x a 306 owner!
    currently abusing type r's in a town near you ™ Wink
    I truely live for the 306 ®
    Build date: 29th October 1997 Wednesday's car
    midweek madness Tee hee
    Posted 14th Dec 2011 at 11:03

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