Post #226
Yes coils i mean, lol, but You wrote dome so i thought you know what you're talking abour 
Thanks Carl
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| Author | Subject: Marco's 3rd 6 but 1st project |
 marco gti6
Seasoned Pro  Location: Troisvierges Registered: 09 Mar 2009 Posts: 1,350 Status: Offline |
Thanks Carl |
 Posted 15th May 2013 at 11:11
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coskev
Seasoned Pro  Location: Oswestry Registered: 01 Nov 2009 Posts: 3,132 Status: Offline |
Post #227
Looking good The reasons I don't like the tailpipes on the Jetex is due to the slash cut angle of it,and the smaller internal pipe size visible inside the tailpipe  Looks like one of those tailpipe trims from Halfords IMO  Might look a bit better with the inside of the tailpipe where it reduces down painted black IMO  ________________________________________ Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress. |
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Posted 15th May 2013 at 20:51
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marco gti6
Seasoned Pro Location: Troisvierges Registered: 09 Mar 2009 Posts: 1,350 Status: Offline |
Post #228
So yesterday i got the fault codes read out and as it seems it is down to the lambda sensor. Great little things these fault code readers are.   I then cleared al fault codes except that the airbag fault is permanent and i can not erase this one. Will have to look into this before going to Germany with the car. What is the life expectancy of a lambda anyway (for a OE Bosch one that is)? As i think i have a spare one somewhere. |
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Posted 17th May 2013 at 06:59
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Takedown
Senior User  Location: Holland Registered: 18 Oct 2012 Posts: 845 Status: Offline |
Post #229
Buy a widebandlambdakit with AFR gauge... Always handy to monitor the engine... |
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Posted 17th May 2013 at 14:41
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marco gti6
Seasoned Pro Location: Troisvierges Registered: 09 Mar 2009 Posts: 1,350 Status: Offline |
Post #230
yeah i have been reading about them.but wich one, AEM or INNOVATE?? |
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Posted 17th May 2013 at 15:42
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic  Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,817 Status: Offline |
Post #231
AEM ________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
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Posted 17th May 2013 at 17:07
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Takedown
Senior User Location: Holland Registered: 18 Oct 2012 Posts: 845 Status: Offline |
Post #232
I also had the AEM, ditched it because i dont like the gauge, but theyre very good |
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Posted 17th May 2013 at 19:44
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marco gti6
Seasoned Pro Location: Troisvierges Registered: 09 Mar 2009 Posts: 1,350 Status: Offline |
Post #233
But does the wideband simply goes where the normal lambda goes and from there to the lambda plug as well as the rear of the gauge? No need to weld more bungs and stuff? |
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Posted 17th May 2013 at 21:02
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welshpug!
Capt Pedantic Location: Bigend, Wales. Registered: 27 Mar 2007 Posts: 25,817 Status: Offline |
Post #234
AEM seems to be the most reliable unit out there, others seem to go out of calibration regularly and sensors go down, which is rather odd as AFAIK most use the Bosch wideband lambda unit.AEM is pre calibrated and requires no further calibration, it has a 0-5v (or 0-1v, can't remember which) output to suit the ecu as well as the usual gauge display. whether this will work well enough for the o.e ecu to use I don't know, but its no big deal to buy a £5 boss and bung and add another point to fit the Wideband additionally to the o.e narrowband. ________________________________________ need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.comBring on the Trumpets. |
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Posted 17th May 2013 at 21:10
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daveyboy
aka Jim Davey  Location: Southampton Registered: 01 Oct 2007 Posts: 8,648 Status: Offline |
Post #235
My AEM was very inaccurate, it read rich at low rpm and very lean under hard acceleration. A cross check against a calibrated lambda on a RR showed it to be fuelling perfectly but the guage was way off.________________________________________ R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.Some of my services: (See my for sale threads) Engine mount/chassis repair Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION Harness bars |
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Posted 17th May 2013 at 21:11
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ballardpaul
Seasoned Pro  Location: Croydon Registered: 22 Jul 2008 Posts: 4,135 Status: Offline |
Post #236
Also a few people found that when it was wired into the ECU the car run badly, it would hit flat spots in acceleration so most people just used it as a second sensor. (AEM) There was a group buy for them and a few threads up after they were fitted.________________________________________ Phase 2 Blaze GTi 6 (Standard) SoldPhase 3 Supercharged China GTi 6 (249.8 BHP) Sold Phase 3 Supercharged Diablo GTi 6 (443 BHP)Sold Nissan 350Z (300 BHP) |
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Posted 17th May 2013 at 22:13
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marco gti6
Seasoned Pro Location: Troisvierges Registered: 09 Mar 2009 Posts: 1,350 Status: Offline |
Post #237
I've read those made by Mabz. Will have t check for which i'll be going as i also need a boost gauge. Not so keen on the digital ones thou... |
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Posted 18th May 2013 at 10:20
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Takedown
Senior User Location: Holland Registered: 18 Oct 2012 Posts: 845 Status: Offline |
Post #238
A wideband replaces the normal lambda so one would be sufficient enough, in most "quality" kits the Bosch lambda comes with it |
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Posted 18th May 2013 at 11:21
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coskev
Seasoned Pro Location: Oswestry Registered: 01 Nov 2009 Posts: 3,132 Status: Offline |
Post #239
Takedown wrote: A wideband replaces the normal lambda so one would be sufficient enough, in most "quality" kits the Bosch lambda comes with it As above, you can just add another bung easily Then leave your standard lambda feeding your data to ecu  ________________________________________ Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress. |
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Posted 18th May 2013 at 16:04
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marco gti6
Seasoned Pro Location: Troisvierges Registered: 09 Mar 2009 Posts: 1,350 Status: Offline |
Post #240
So yesterday we changed the lambda sensor for a newer one i had in my spares box, no more fault codes of that one since then. That is good. Then we started to look for a place to fit the oil catch tank i had ordered last weekThis is the one i got, it's the same one as Paul aka Takedown has ordered for his car http://www.ebay.de/itm/Universal-Olauffangbehalter-Oilcatch-Tank-Schwarz-OCT-rundlich-Oil-Catch-Can-/111065161822?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item19dbffe05e However there is no room for it anywhere in the engine bay. Can some of you post some pictures of their oil catch tank on their sc'd 6 or Rallye? Worst case scenario i'll have to find a smaller one. Any suggestions? |
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Posted 19th May 2013 at 11:05
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ballardpaul
Seasoned Pro Location: Croydon Registered: 22 Jul 2008 Posts: 4,135 Status: Offline |
Post #241
Probably find most are on track cars with the battery relocated. ________________________________________ Phase 2 Blaze GTi 6 (Standard) SoldPhase 3 Supercharged China GTi 6 (249.8 BHP) Sold Phase 3 Supercharged Diablo GTi 6 (443 BHP)Sold Nissan 350Z (300 BHP) |
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Posted 19th May 2013 at 15:01
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eliotrw
Seasoned Pro  Location: Southwark Registered: 18 Jul 2010 Posts: 4,864 Status: Offline |
Post #242
Where the airbox was? Or is it not a good idea to mount one so low?________________________________________ Ex- Phase 3 China GTi-6 T-Reg |
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Posted 19th May 2013 at 16:00
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coskev
Seasoned Pro Location: Oswestry Registered: 01 Nov 2009 Posts: 3,132 Status: Offline |
Post #243
eliotrw wrote: Where the airbox was? Or is it not a good idea to mount one so low? They are best positioned slightly higher than the cam covers,so any condensation will make its way to the can rather than hang about in the eng ________________________________________ Red GTB1756 powered Fabia VRS daily driver,LBSC Gti6 eater........Mac1 ZR R1 kit car build in progress. |
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Posted 19th May 2013 at 21:46
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eliotrw
Seasoned Pro Location: Southwark Registered: 18 Jul 2010 Posts: 4,864 Status: Offline |
Post #244
Ah HAH!Makes perfect sense. ________________________________________ Ex- Phase 3 China GTi-6 T-Reg |
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Posted 19th May 2013 at 21:58
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marco gti6
Seasoned Pro Location: Troisvierges Registered: 09 Mar 2009 Posts: 1,350 Status: Offline |
Post #245
Hello Fellas,So as Monday was a bank holiday i set about attacking my PH3 Valeo's in order to get them black masked. What the f**k was i thinking I would never have thought these would be such a bas**rd to do. Without the right equipment (heat gun an specially the cheese cutter  ) i would never have got to open one up. So i started in the morning around 10 o'clock About 2 hours later and sore fingers the first one was finaly open without breaking any clips  I then set about opening the second, unfortunately one clip broke this time, but that's not that bad. After opening up both, i started to sand down the inserts back to the plastic which went rather well,  However when i set about putting on the transparent primer which is specific for plastics this happened to them   Lots of small and big cracks  What do you guys advise me to do? The parts had been sanded down an cleaned with brake cleaner.Another question is what product do you guy use to polish the headlights? As mine have a few quite deep scratches which i would like to sort out.  Any advice is welcome and thank you for looking |
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Posted 22nd May 2013 at 19:29
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mik
Seasoned Pro  Location: Kent Registered: 17 Feb 2011 Posts: 2,100 Status: Offline |
Post #246
Maybe the brake cleaner had soaked into or softened the plastic, or there was still some residue still on the plastic which reacted with the primer? Brake cleaner is pretty powerful stuff. I would leave them a day or so and then sand them back (make sure you sand out the cracked primer entirely or the cracks will come back through) then clean with either water based cleaner or special panel wipes that you can buy from a motor factor (intended to get residue off panels before painting). Then prime again. To polish out the the marks on the headlights I would use a car polishing wax with abrasive in it such as T-cut which you normally use to restore dull paintwork. If that doesn't get all the marks out, use fine wet and dry sandpaper such as 1200 grit on the deeper marks. This will leave the plastic dull where you have sanded it. Then T-cut polish on top of that to restore the clarity. With some experimentation it should improve the headlights a lot. ________________________________________ Cherry Rallye SOLD |
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Posted 22nd May 2013 at 21:27
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Takedown
Senior User Location: Holland Registered: 18 Oct 2012 Posts: 845 Status: Offline |
Post #247
Marco gebruik amoniak om te ontvetten, remreiniger is niet wat je wilt gebruiken om te ontvetten! |
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Posted 23rd May 2013 at 11:15
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marco gti6
Seasoned Pro Location: Troisvierges Registered: 09 Mar 2009 Posts: 1,350 Status: Offline |
Post #248
Amoniak??? Hoe moet ik aan dat spul komen? Krijg je dat zo maar te kopen? Heb jij je 306 al weten te starten? |
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Posted 23rd May 2013 at 14:33
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heliosphan
Senior User  Location: UK Registered: 14 Sep 2007 Posts: 948 Status: Offline |
Post #249
Totally agree with Paul here. Marco, sort it out. |
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Posted 23rd May 2013 at 14:53
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marco gti6
Seasoned Pro Location: Troisvierges Registered: 09 Mar 2009 Posts: 1,350 Status: Offline |
Post #250
tompaltridge wrote: Totally agree with Paul here. Marco, sort it out. Right mate, sometimes you start writing stuff in other languages without remembering that you are on an English car forum  |
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Posted 23rd May 2013 at 15:26
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