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Author Subject: Karl's S/C Xsara
berger

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Location: Bathurst

Registered: 26 Oct 2008

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Post #1
Don't lynch me!

I couldnt afford a s/c GTI-6! LOL



Bought it a couple of months ago now, supercharged by Carl last year, the previous owner didnt use it much.

Plans:

Fit oil cooler, I have everything apart from the hoses now, 16 row Setrab one should do the trick!

Fit better brakes, I have some renaultsport brembos, so going for either Ash's kit or 305mm V6 discs.

Issues

At the moment I have a few issues to solve.

The brakes at the moment aren't very good, there is some travel in them and then it always feels like they wont pull you up quickly enough. My GTI-6 ones were awesome and I never had an issue with them. These have OE pads/discs whereas my 6 was on DS2500 with brembo discs, but even so.

I thought it was just air in the system at first, so bled all new fluid through (the old stuff was pretty manky) but its not improved it.

With the engine running you can pump the pedal but it won't firm up... not a problem I normally have LOL

And if you hold your pressure on the pedal it will gradually sink. I'm thinking its a buggered master cylinder, so thats to be changed shortly!



Secondly what I had thought was the throttle cable partially sticking and a poor engine map appears to be the TPS, I posted about it in someone elses thread and it was suggested to look at the TPS.

I have tested it to check it gets voltage, but I cant check while its running due to poor access and I cant get the multimeter prongs in without damaging the wiring.

The car revs up to 2k and starts pretty poorly, occasionally over-revs in traffic and also runs very rich on WOT. All seem to be symptoms of a buggered TPS, so a trip to Andrew Page to see if they can get me a Bosch one is in order!


Oh and the fuel gauge doesn't work but I just fill up every 200 miles. Ive given up on trying to solve the issues there, running a 6 ECU for the engine and a Xsara one for the car is causing the fault which is way too complicated to be bothered about.


Future Developments

I'm thinking of replacing the boost piping as while some sections are bent, others are just two pieces of angled tubing welded together, not very neat, plus on the SC outlet the hose is too long and can fold in on itself. Thinking it is also worth wrapping the piping in heat reflective tape as the pipes get warm in the engine bay yet are cool when they come out the IC.

Also it runs a decat, and miltek centre, but with a standard backbox. This is good as its nice and quiet, but unsure if this is robbing me of much/lots of power.

________________________________________

Bang'in 7 gram rocks!
I have one gear, GO!
Posted 20th Jun 2010 at 23:44
roland rat

Yeeeah Rat fans!

Location: Swansea

Registered: 29 Nov 2006

Posts: 22,282

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Post #2
Ahh so you bought Col's old VTS! Shock

Was tempted by it but couldnt raise the cash quick enough,you've had a bargain there Thumbs up
Posted 20th Jun 2010 at 23:49
simonjames

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Location: Whitland S.Wales

Registered: 23 Nov 2004

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Post #3
roland rat wrote:
Ahh so you bought Col's old VTS! Shock

Was tempted by it but couldnt raise the cash quick enough,you've had a bargain there Thumbs up


Yeah i was also tempted

good car there mate

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Posted 21st Jun 2010 at 00:33
mechanical_repairs

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Location: leicester

Registered: 10 Jan 2005

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Post #4
Hats off to you mate, you got a bargain there and Col looked after that one so well.

If you need any help etc you know where i am.

Cheers, Carl

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Posted 21st Jun 2010 at 00:43
tea boy

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Location: Market Rasen

Registered: 27 Feb 2010

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Post #5
berger wrote:






My daughter was watching Sarah Jane Adventure this morning.
Your car was one of the baddies.LOL


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If it ain't broke......fix it until it is.
Posted 21st Jun 2010 at 01:38
vts_tibi

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Location: Nuneaton

Registered: 27 Apr 2007

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Post #6
^^ Laugh my ass off but I agree LOL

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Posted 21st Jun 2010 at 23:09
berger

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Location: Bathurst

Registered: 26 Oct 2008

Posts: 1,068

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Post #7
New TPS on order, should have it tomorrow afternoon, £74 inc the VAT, stung a bit but could be worse. As long as it fixes it I dont mind!

Could have had an intermotor one for less money, but thought it better to buy the OE Bosch, buy cheap buy twice!

My oil turned up from Opie oils too for when I fit the oil cooler.

Have my braided hoses to pickup from the post office in the AM to suit my renaultsports when I can afford the rest of the kit!

________________________________________

Bang'in 7 gram rocks!
I have one gear, GO!
Posted 22nd Jun 2010 at 00:06
berger

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Location: Bathurst

Registered: 26 Oct 2008

Posts: 1,068

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Post #8
Have changed my TPS over, should I need to do anything else, or should it just self adjust as I drive the car?

It was idling a touch high, but imagine this will come down as it adjusts?

Took it for a small drive around where I live, few 30mph, starts stops and a little bit of the loud pedal around the industrial estate.

________________________________________

Bang'in 7 gram rocks!
I have one gear, GO!
Posted 22nd Jun 2010 at 23:22
berger

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Location: Bathurst

Registered: 26 Oct 2008

Posts: 1,068

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Post #9
Reset the ECU and it seems to be better, but not used the car today.

Refitted the bonnet stay (got fed up of having to get the damper out the boot, then open the bonnet and put it in place), required a different strut brace half with an additional bracket on it. I didnt have any nylocs so had to get a bagful for it.

________________________________________

Bang'in 7 gram rocks!
I have one gear, GO!
Posted 25th Jun 2010 at 02:55
berger

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Location: Bathurst

Registered: 26 Oct 2008

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Post #10
Made a start on sorting out the clutch today since I had nothing better to do. Waiting on my cable to arrive from Citroen this Wednesday!

All going easy so far!

Unclip the cable from the gearbox end, undo it from the clutch arm etc. I removed the battery as it was a bit fiddly with it in place and to see how it worked better.

Then jack the car up, remove undertray.

The cable clips into the rear subframe, just pop it out of here. Then on either side of the subframe there is a metal hook which the cable locates into (just to hold it/route it I assume) pop it out of this on both sides of the car.

Now all that is left to do is to unclip from the pedal and pull it through. Its been recommended to attach a piece of string to the white clip at the pedal end to pull the new cable with, so thats where I have left it until my new cable arrives.

I can't see anything wrong with this one, but then I didnt expect to be able to. It looks like it has been improved over the GTI-6 version as the cable is heatshielded up by the manifold.

________________________________________

Bang'in 7 gram rocks!
I have one gear, GO!
Posted 10th Jul 2010 at 22:06
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,817

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Post #11
o.e gti6 cables do have that silver thingy on them Smile

funny that citroen have those stiff wire guides and peugeot don't isn't it, my zx has then too Big grin

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Posted 10th Jul 2010 at 22:24
berger

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Location: Bathurst

Registered: 26 Oct 2008

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Post #12
Also fitted an oil cooler!

I used the mountings for the s/c oil cooler and adapted them. Length of stud into each one (fastened under the car).



Section of angle added for strength to help keep it braced and any load off the end tanks.

16 Row Setrab cooler going on.



I mounted the coolers using a nut, then a washer, a foam pad to reduce vibration and another washer over the top. Then the same again on the other side of the mounting lug on the cooler.

Then using another section of angle, drilled two holes in the end and used two usefully positioned OE studs on the slam panel to attach it. Drilled two holes in it, and have made some threaded collars up to attach to the stud. Threaded the collars down the stud (not pictured) and then bolted the angle to the collar which holds the stud.



Hoses are ½" BSP braided mocal jobbys, come out the cooler, head towards the drivers side, then down and under the radiator. Then up to the spacer plate which is thermostatically controlled. I put a section of foam around the hoses just as they pass under the radiator to help prevent any chaffage.

Will post a completed picture soon, ended up using some larger/thicker angle than pictured there.

________________________________________

Bang'in 7 gram rocks!
I have one gear, GO!
Posted 10th Jul 2010 at 22:30
berger

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Location: Bathurst

Registered: 26 Oct 2008

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Post #13
Citroen phoned me up to say my cable had arrived! 2 days earlier than the later date they had promised me. Big grin

So headed over in the afternoon as I was passing and picked it up.

Home from work, sockets out and away we went!

Ba-bah!



Jack the drivers side up, drivers side wheel off. Unclip white clip off the pedal, tie string to it. Pull cable through.

Tie string to new cable. Pass new cable up the direction the old one went, aiming for a gap between the manifold heat shield and aircon pipes. Hold torch with one hand/mouth while feeding cable with the other. Pull string through a bit. Fight with the pedal and the clip. Hook the clip over the pedal! Sucess! :2funny:

Hard bit done, clip it back under the car, pass the cable through the two hooks, pass it up onto the top of the gearbox. There is a black plastic retaining clip with a metal E clip that fits horizontally ontop of the gearbox (the old one the E clip was missing/broken but I dont think it does much/anything). Pull cable through, and fit the two rubber ends onto the clutch arm etc!

Rebuild it all and GREAT SUCCESS! It seems to work great now!

Rebuild the car, reattach the battery, get confused when the key/immob doesnt work. Press all the buttons on the fob until it does. Start car and be happy! ;D

Total time, about an hour today and half an hour on Saturday, so id say 75 mins if you did it in one stretch. Difficulty, 3/10 maybe, pretty easy and only basic tools required.

________________________________________

Bang'in 7 gram rocks!
I have one gear, GO!
Posted 13th Jul 2010 at 02:16
berger

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Location: Bathurst

Registered: 26 Oct 2008

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Post #14
Finished off the oil cooler today.

Here are my collars I had made, 16mm diameter stainless rod, 40mm in length, M6 tapped, and with 1.5mm taken off either side to give a flat allowing you to use a 13mm spanner on it to adjust them.




Cut down the stud slightly which I had mounted my coolers on and then wound them down onto it.



Then spend ages faffing about with my length of angle getting it spaced correctly off the studs on the slam panel, it wasn't the same side to side, so it always ended up cocked and I wasn't sure why!

And bolt the collars to the angle using M6 bolts and a washer.



All done!



Wrapped the hoses in some sponge and held on with tie wraps to stop any potential chafeage, even though they are braided I thought they could wear through.



They pass under the radiator and again a little sponge to stop them rubbing on the bottom of the rad. Then up and into the spacer plate.



________________________________________

Bang'in 7 gram rocks!
I have one gear, GO!
Posted 17th Jul 2010 at 18:37
mechanical_repairs

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Location: leicester

Registered: 10 Jan 2005

Posts: 12,122

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Post #15
Looking good mate.

Carl

________________________________________

C.G.Cars of Leicester, Peugeot/Citroen/Renault specialist Tel: 01162 624498/07799 405184 WWW.CGCARSLEICESTER.CO.UK
36 narborough road south, Leicester LE3 2fn

MOT station now open, tests £35 with a free retest.
Recovery available with a recovery unit, for those not so local jobs

Also offer the loan of a free courtesy car 306 dturbo
Posted 18th Jul 2010 at 03:15
berger

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Location: Bathurst

Registered: 26 Oct 2008

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Post #16
Ready with the matches now. Bloody French electrics!

My girlfriend phoned me up as she is off work for the summer, to say that the indicators on my car are flashing.

Got her to try to lock/unlock the car and she said that neither of the fobs did anything.

I did have the battery off for a couple of days last week when I replaced the clutch cable, but its worked fine since then locking/unlocking off the fob.

I get home from work, the car unlocks and locks fine from the fob, central locking works inside the car.

Take it out for a drive, key in first thing it flashes is Economy Mode Active.

Drives fine, everything works, lights wipers etc.

I got home, took the key out, throws up passenger airbag fault, passenger airbag deactivated.

Get out, won't lock from the fob.

Get back in, put key to P2, airbag light goes out and everything lights up as it should.

Get out, still won't lock off the fob.

Locked it with the key, central locking locked the other doors and left it.


I have done the BSI reset, if anything it has made it worse.

The fobs won't resync with the car, neither the gold or silver key will.

Now I am just getting random faults with everything. The headlights wouldnt turn off at the shop, when I took the key out it flashed immob fault then pressing the brake pedal down would cause all the lights to go out, but on releasing it just about all the lights lit up and it throws up passenger airbag error again.

Oh my word, I cannot be doing with this!

The car will run and drive due to the 306 ECU doing all that half of the car, hence why it wont immob I expect, but I could do without the rest of the car packing up around it!

It has been quite damp recently, but I took the car for a good run 10-20 miles yday and got it plenty hot to dry anything out.





Anyone want a supercharger. Comes with a free xsara shell? Unsure LOL

________________________________________

Bang'in 7 gram rocks!
I have one gear, GO!
Posted 20th Jul 2010 at 01:39
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,817

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Post #17
is it anything to do with the fact that a phase 2 xsara is multiplex and uses a different ecu to the 306?

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Posted 20th Jul 2010 at 01:43
berger

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Location: Bathurst

Registered: 26 Oct 2008

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Post #18
welshpug! wrote:
is it anything to do with the fact that a phase 2 xsara is multiplex and uses a different ecu to the 306?


The car uses a 306 ecu to run the engine.

The main loom of the car uses the Xsara ecu.

This is the only way Carl could get it to work without using aftermarket management I believe.

Its been fine up to now though.... Whistle


Edit:

Left the battery off for 60-90 minutes, went back out hooked it up and problems solved!

Work that one out!

Not sure what set it off in the first place, or why it went totally screwy when I reset the BSI (or tried to). But it works again now, so happy days!

________________________________________

Bang'in 7 gram rocks!
I have one gear, GO!
Posted 20th Jul 2010 at 03:35
berger

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Location: Bathurst

Registered: 26 Oct 2008

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Post #19
I replaced a hose in the engine bay which attached to the SC outlet, it was sucking in on vacuum and had started to split from the inside outwards.

Short length of alloy mandrel bend and some hose to join it later!



Still having a wiring issue somewhere, getting static noise through the speakers which rises with revs, and it will flash indicators/lose fob sync for no reason.

Battery is new and tests at 12.5v, 14.5v when the car is started.

________________________________________

Bang'in 7 gram rocks!
I have one gear, GO!
Posted 27th Jul 2010 at 01:46
hovis16

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Post #20
looking good.how much are those setrab oil coolers i want a black oil cooler

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Posted 27th Jul 2010 at 04:05
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,817

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Post #21
hovis16 wrote:
looking good.how much are those setrab oil coolers i want a black oil cooler







Laugh my ass off

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Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 27th Jul 2010 at 04:18
6waysforward

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Location: Benfleet essex

Registered: 30 Oct 2005

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Post #22
a hissing noise coming through speakers when the engine is revved etc is normally a earth fault fella.

clean up all your earths, check your cables and if need be but a couple of extra cables in.

mr swampy used to do earth kits, maybe drop him a pm.

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Posted 27th Jul 2010 at 05:46
spiky

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Post #23
dont get a stupid look swammpy kit,

get decent cable and do it properly

i use some 300amp cable, do it properly Smile

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Posted 27th Jul 2010 at 12:37
tvrfan007

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Post #24
6waysforward wrote:
a hissing noise coming through speakers when the engine is revved etc is normally a earth fault fella.


Thanks for the confirmation, I told him that at the weekend. LOL

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Posted 27th Jul 2010 at 12:43
berger

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Location: Bathurst

Registered: 26 Oct 2008

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Post #25
hovis16 wrote:
looking good.how much are those setrab oil coolers i want a black oil cooler


Depending on size, about £80.

Got mine for half that, ebay ftw! LOL

Where should I add some more earths, where to/from? If its that simple it might solve all my problems in one, with the stupid hazards flashing and keyfob losing sync too.

________________________________________

Bang'in 7 gram rocks!
I have one gear, GO!
Posted 27th Jul 2010 at 15:22

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