some point to consider : if some of you going the big brake rout (meaning big rotors big calipers ) only in the front,you'll surprise to find that the stopping distance increased.

as for bedding , theres a recommendation to bed new pads with old disks
took it from http://mrtperformance.com.au/forums/archive/index.php/t-2.html

"Generally it is not recomended to bed new rotors and new pads together. The reason being that during the bedding process of the pads, excess resin from the pad material is expelled. Bedding the rotor is done to season the rotor material which relieves stresses and lines the rotor braking surface with a light even coating of resin material. Depending on the type of resin in a new pad this can be like pouring a jug of gravy onto the rotor surface and expecting it to be an even layer. DTV from resin wipe off is the result. The amount of DTV that can be generated is dependant on the type of pad. Sometimes its none and on other occasions brake shudder is totally unaceptable. When people say they have warped their rotors bedding in or in the first 1500 kms its generally resin wipe off"

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French military victories?
Did you mean French military defeats?

Fitted these new discs and pads today with the help of a couple of mates.

It was a long day

Gladly the discs and pads were both the correct part number as I was slightly concerned about buying the wrong pads.

When comparing old discs to new though, the old ones were a fair bit smaller in size. Looks like XSI discs or something were on before for some reason. (Previous owner must have done it).

Had a bit of a nightmare doing the first side. Firstly, couldn't find a 17mm spanner Found a motorbike spanner and improvised with that.

Main problem was clamping the piston to push it back. I bought a 100mm G clamp from halfrauds. For ages we were trying to clamp the edge of the piston ring. And it wasn't working because the clamp wasn't big enough.

We even went and bought a larger clamp, but only a plastic one. Which broke after about 30seconds!

Then we figured out we were all being dumb and we could fit the 100mm clamp inside the piston hole

So after taking about 4 hours to do the first side The other side only took about 20mins.

All good practice as I will know how to do it myself next time I suppose!

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Sold my GTI-6 now riding in a Scooby

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James

just shove inside the piston an handle bar of small jack like this and push,
you'l have to release the nipple a bit.
it's simple ,effective ,fits perfectly in the bore and wan't harm the seal.

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French military victories?
Did you mean French military defeats?

it wan't move cause the fluid inside has nowhere to go, you had to release the nipple on the caliper letting it flow .
i never use other tool then that.

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French military victories?
Did you mean French military defeats?

Me too, they screw in clockwise

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R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars

You probably clipped off one of the wheel balancing weight that taped inside the wheel.
happen to me too, when i convert the ZX reflex little brakes to Berlingo's ones
it was touching the wheel that i had to grind the
caliper.

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French military victories?
Did you mean French military defeats?