displaying posts 1 to 22 of 22

Author Subject: Top engine mount
dented_vts

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Location: london

Registered: 23 Feb 2010

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Post #1
I have read the thread concerning replacement of the drivers side top engine mount but i still dont understand a couple of points:

1. How do you tighten the mount into place and to what approximate torque? Should thread lock be used?

2. Where should i put the jack under the engine to support its weight? Won't jacking the sump, albeit with a block of wood, run the risk of damaging the sump gasket?

I think my mount is ok but i want to take it out to check the body and paint over where the mount sits with hammerite if all ok.

Has anyone come up with a solution to the excessive movement of the mount- ie is there a shim kit one can buy?
Posted 24th Feb 2010 at 19:14
smegal

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Location: Leeds

Registered: 26 Dec 2005

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Post #2
Someone on here sells some chocks but they are literally just a piece fo metal used to shim the gap. Mine has just had some steel welded in the gap, and it's perfect.

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Now in a Megane R26
Posted 24th Feb 2010 at 19:21
dented_vts

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Post #3
Thanks, have you added metal to both sides or just one side? You wouldn't happen to have a picture would you? I need to sort this out as i have replaced the gearbox and lower mount with genuine Citroen parts, but it still thumps if i change at full throttle no matter how slow and smooth i am. I have bought a Q-Drive mount from Europarts for the drivers side- are these ok?
Posted 24th Feb 2010 at 19:25
ken

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Location: wokingham

Registered: 28 Mar 2007

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Post #4
like smegal said, you can buy little chocks.

me and my mate made up one for mine and it seems fine!

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Posted 24th Feb 2010 at 19:27
jib

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Location: Doncaster

Registered: 21 Feb 2008

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Post #5
dented_vts wrote:
Thanks, have you added metal to both sides or just one side? You wouldn't happen to have a picture would you? I need to sort this out as i have replaced the gearbox and lower mount with genuine Citroen parts, but it still thumps if i change at full throttle no matter how slow and smooth i am. I have bought a Q-Drive mount from Europarts for the drivers side- are these ok?


From my experience there is some play in the engine even with new/good mounts when changing up at full throttle.

I recently went for a group N lower engine mount. This reduced the play alot (in conjunction with a chock on the top mount).

Posted 24th Feb 2010 at 19:28
ken

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Location: wokingham

Registered: 28 Mar 2007

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Post #6
its in the post mate

engine mount chocks

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Posted 24th Feb 2010 at 19:28
dented_vts

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Registered: 23 Feb 2010

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Post #7
Thanks i'll read that.

I tried a Baker Group N lower mount, but it ruined the car. So harsh, i could feel the buzzing through the seat and it made the dash rattle, so i had to pay to have it pressed out again and a standard one put back in. I have it in so the solid parts are leaning forward just off vertical, and it works well, no judder when puling away and isn't harsh.
Posted 24th Feb 2010 at 19:46
jib

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Post #8
dented_vts wrote:
I tried a Baker Group N lower mount, but it ruined the car. So harsh


Agree'd it does make it feel like your sat on a washing machine on a crazy spin cycle but the gains make it worth while LOL
Posted 24th Feb 2010 at 19:51
phillipm

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Location: Rotherham

Registered: 15 Oct 2006

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Post #9
They do soften up a bit after a few months...

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Posted 24th Feb 2010 at 19:55
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

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Post #10
I do a weld repair and reiforcement to the chassis cup if it's cracked. This is very common on these cars. If you have it done I can also weld on a small chock plate either side of the mount cup to permanently eliminate the excessive movement that cracks the mount in the first place, this has the added benefit of smothing out the driveline shunt you get when changing gear equating to a much smoother ride. Wink

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 24th Feb 2010 at 20:40
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

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Post #11
phillipm wrote:
They do soften up a bit after a few months...


+ 1 was going to say mine softened right up after the first week Thumbs up

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 24th Feb 2010 at 20:42
dented_vts

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Location: london

Registered: 23 Feb 2010

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Post #12
Interesting- where are you based?
Posted 24th Feb 2010 at 22:17
dented_vts

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Post #13
Ah i see southampton, not too far.
Posted 24th Feb 2010 at 23:06
dented_vts

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Registered: 23 Feb 2010

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Post #14
I'll try and take the existing mout out at the weekend, but how do i tighten up the new mount? And how tight should it be?
Posted 25th Feb 2010 at 01:15
daveyboy

aka Jim Davey

Location: Southampton

Registered: 01 Oct 2007

Posts: 8,648

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Post #15
dented_vts wrote:
I'll try and take the existing mout out at the weekend, but how do i tighten up the new mount? And how tight should it be?


What you need is a big screwdriver that you don't mind hitting with a hammer, around the outside edge of the mount at the top are a row of castellations, you basicly tap the mount around in an anticlockwise direction to undo it and a clockwise direction to do it up. It wants to be pretty tight as its an M10 thread I think, but as for a torque figure I cant really give one as the method of tightening is'nt exactly a pescise art!

Once you get it off you are likely to find a hole with the captive nut broken off and still attatched to the threaded part of the mount.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 25th Feb 2010 at 01:24
adam b

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Location: The Nam

Registered: 24 Jan 2006

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Post #16
Or you'll find the bolt has broken the bottom of the mount like in my car.

Going for a Baker top mount chocked out with some very large lumps of rubber to try to stop the V6 from moving. I'm fairly sure they don't do the right size lower mount yet for my engine, but either the master cylinder or subframe will stop it moving too much LOL

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Posted 26th Feb 2010 at 21:35
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,817

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Post #17
there is no sump gasket to damage, even then you'd have to be very unfortunate/stupid to manage to do any damage to one by just jacking the engine up by the sump LOL

there is a proper tool to remove and install these but I haven't seen them anywhere but a pug/citroen dealer and my local specialist, I made my own one from a bit of truck exhaust pipe.

no point IMO to bodge any bits of angle iron in there when you can just buy the new parts.

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 26th Feb 2010 at 21:51
dented_vts

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Post #18
welshpug! wrote:
there is no sump gasket to damage, even then you'd have to be very unfortunate/stupid to manage to do any damage to one by just jacking the engine up by the sump LOL

there is a proper tool to remove and install these but I haven't seen them anywhere but a pug/citroen dealer and my local specialist, I made my own one from a bit of truck exhaust pipe.

no point IMO to bodge any bits of angle iron in there when you can just buy the new parts.


Thanks- i guessed there must be something to turn the mount with, i guess the tool fits in the holes in the side of the metal beneath the rubber of the mount.

I have the large rubber bit of the mount (no. 1), do you think i should but a new top plate (no. 4) as well? I think that is about 20 quid at retail prices.

dented_vts has attached the following image:

Posted 27th Feb 2010 at 05:59
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #19
that's the badger, BBM do an uprated one if you wish, otherwise a standard Peugeot will be more than sufficient.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 27th Feb 2010 at 15:44
dented_vts

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Registered: 23 Feb 2010

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Post #20
welshpug! wrote:
that's the badger, BBM do an uprated one if you wish, otherwise a standard Peugeot will be more than sufficient.


Thanks for your help. Will a new PSA or Baker bush fill up the gap more than mine? I will try and take a few pics.
Posted 27th Feb 2010 at 15:48
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

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Post #21
they should do, if its been flapping about for some time you may need to gently persuade the sides of the cradle back to sit closer to the buffers, though the top bolted down section usually holds the sides where they are meant to be.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 27th Feb 2010 at 16:29
joevts

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Location: barnsley

Registered: 21 May 2008

Posts: 608

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Post #22
i've got a pair of chocks if you wanted them, but i don't think gilesy would be happy with me selling them on here, after all the extensive research and time money and effort he put into designing his version Razz
Posted 1st Mar 2010 at 23:41

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