displaying posts 1 to 25 of 25

Author Subject: Cleaning the tops of pistons
gti6girl

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Post #1
Took the spark plugs out of the rallye as we are having a little trouble starting it as it has not moved for a few months and notice a bit of shit on the tops of the pistons. Is there any way to remove this while the engine is still together?

cheers
Posted 14th Feb 2010 at 23:18
mr swampy s16

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Post #2
Pour some redex down the hole.
Leave for half an hour, cover the plug holes with rags and crank the engine over.
Refit the plugs and start the engine.
Will be alot of smoketand crap out the back but it soon goes.
Its what we used to do on the old a series and pinto engines to de coke them
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 01:06
gti6girl

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Post #3
And that will be fine to do on my
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 02:21
t0mt0m

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Post #4
gti6girl wrote:
And that will be fine to do on my

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Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 02:50
fletch

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Post #5
Bloody hell
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 03:12
chrisd306

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Post #6
is it your rallye in performance french car?

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Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 03:13
mabgti

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Post #7
that the touring car engine that was at usc?

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Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 03:19
jeffers Forum Admin

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Post #8
mabgti wrote:
that the touring car engine that was at usc?

I believe it will be, ex works engine IIRC.....Unsure

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Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 03:25
chrisd306

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Post #9
theers a mint 205 Rallye in french car this month, 274bhp longmans gti6 engine on bodies, looks good.

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Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 03:42
gti6girl

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Post #10
Yes that's ours.

It's just like black deposits but it looks quite thick

the engines were 12.5k back in the day and you can't get a car for less the around 15k
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 04:02
fletch

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Post #11
Carbon deposits then, you running the correct plugs?
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 04:21
gti6girl

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Post #12
Indeed, I just want to know if there is a way of getting it off
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 04:23
rikky 🦔

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Post #13
redex

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Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 05:14
adam b

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Post #14
sounds like its running too rich when cold, wouldnt bother trying to clean anything as you're likely to get crap down the side of the bores, last thing you want with and engine that expensive.

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Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 05:34
gti6girl

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Post #15
well we did not map it at -1 and thats what it is here so maybe that has something to do with it, the plugs do get wet very quickly and i never had this problem all though 2009 show season
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 11:43
pete_rallye

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Post #16
Just thrash the bo***cks off it. These engines get carbon'd up very quickly if left idling or driven normally. They run really rich, especially when its cold. You need to give em a good thrashing to burn all the carbon off. Not sure why but Mr Longman seems to map them this way, must be a reason for it. I used to have to clean my plugs to get it to start after it was run for a short period especially during the cold weather. The plugs don't help either mind.

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Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 13:00
daveyboy

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Post #17
pete_rallye wrote:
Just thrash the bo***cks off it. These engines get carbon'd up very quickly if left idling or driven normally. They run really rich, especially when its cold. You need to give em a good thrashing to burn all the carbon off. Not sure why but Mr Longman seems to map them this way, must be a reason for it. I used to have to clean my plugs to get it to start after it was run for a short period especially during the cold weather. The plugs don't help either mind.


I was going to suggest you stop driving like a girl but looks like somone beat me to it...Wink LOL

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Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 13:07
daveyboy

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Post #18
daveyboy wrote:
pete_rallye wrote:
Just thrash the bo***cks off it. These engines get carbon'd up very quickly if left idling or driven normally. They run really rich, especially when its cold. You need to give em a good thrashing to burn all the carbon off. Not sure why but Mr Longman seems to map them this way, must be a reason for it. I used to have to clean my plugs to get it to start after it was run for a short period especially during the cold weather. The plugs don't help either mind.


I was going to suggest you stop driving like a girl but looks like somone beat me to it...Wink LOL


As far as I'm led to believe, Longmans used to live map their cars on the road? Would there be any benefit in having a mapping session on a rolling road? If it is running too rich at lower RPM could this not be likely to cause bore wash and premature wear? Even if they leaned off the low speed running settings a little it might help? Do you have an AFR guage in the car?

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R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 15:54
gti6girl

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Post #19
No.

The car does get thrashed but is off the road for the winter. We have just fixed our charging problem and was just having difficulty starting it up. When it's back on the road we will take it for a spin
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 18:25
ryangti6

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Post #20
What did the actual plugs look like then? I would go off these as an indication to how its running rather than the colour of the piston tops.
If the plugs look fine then all should be good cumbustion wise surely.

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Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 21:17
pete_rallye

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Post #21
The difficulty you're having starting it is because the map chucks in loads of fuel when its cold.The race plugs don't like this, it f*cks them pretty quick. You need to either start it on standard plugs and get it warmed up, or my preferred method is to blow torch the race plugs then put them in whilst there hot and start it up. Don't keep trying to start it, it'll backfire lots and you'll kill the plugs.

Yes the running rich at low rpm can cause bore wash and usually the oil stinks of petrol after not long. Its usually just on start up it causes a problem though. Its because the air speed with the throttle bodies on turnover is so low you need a lots of fuel to get it into the cylinders. Usually though you start it and hold it at about 2.5k rpm to get it up to temp. Bare in mind it is a race engine and not really designed for everyday use.

Oh, I also fitted a diesel starter which improved things considerably.

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Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 15th Feb 2010 at 21:37
gti6girl

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Post #22
Thanks pete.

The plugs are like new just wet and when dried just get wet very quickly.

Think I might get some standard plugs then

thanks for the help
Posted 16th Feb 2010 at 03:50
daveyboy

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Post #23
pete_rallye wrote:
The difficulty you're having starting it is because the map chucks in loads of fuel when its cold.The race plugs don't like this, it f*cks them pretty quick. You need to either start it on standard plugs and get it warmed up, or my preferred method is to blow torch the race plugs then put them in whilst there hot and start it up. Don't keep trying to start it, it'll backfire lots and you'll kill the plugs.

Yes the running rich at low rpm can cause bore wash and usually the oil stinks of petrol after not long. Its usually just on start up it causes a problem though. Its because the air speed with the throttle bodies on turnover is so low you need a lots of fuel to get it into the cylinders. Usually though you start it and hold it at about 2.5k rpm to get it up to temp. Bare in mind it is a race engine and not really designed for everyday use.

Oh, I also fitted a diesel starter which improved things considerably.


I know when we start the classic Formula 2 (Tuned 2 litre 16 Toyota engines mostly) you have to keep revving them up and down up to 2.5K or so to a keep the oil splash going to lube the cams, but also to warm them through faster as they foul up very soon if left to idle for more than a few seconds. Is your map adjustable? ie. can you turn down the cranking enrichment a little? You will know if you have gone too far leaning of the idling mixture as it will start to spit and splutter.

________________________________________

R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars
Posted 16th Feb 2010 at 22:42
pete_rallye

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Post #24
The map will have a compensation map to account for cold air/coolant temps, maybe it compensates too much?! I guess you could get into the map and change it but I know Longmans lock their ecu's so you cannot alter them.

I know Sandy likes to run the bodies upside down to try and stop the fuel dropping out of the air, not sure if this would also help with the start up but guess it might do? Actually he usually also runs 8 injectors, so will probably use the ones in the normal position for starting as their nice and close to the valves.

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Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring
Posted 17th Feb 2010 at 03:16
sandy

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Post #25
It's an oddity of Engine Dyno mapped engines, that part throttle etc is usually rich when fitted in the car. Possibly the case here. I've never figured out why, but the map should be checked in the car anyway if you want it to be right, even then what you see in the rollers will be slightly different to out on the road/track!
Posted 10th Mar 2010 at 12:19

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