displaying posts 1 to 15 of 15

Author Subject: Advice needed on my 306 please.
china_306 Banned!

Location: Stoke

Registered: 25 Nov 2009

Posts: 129

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Post #1
hi guys. i recently had my phase 3 306 lowered by 40mm. i was wondering if my rear dampers needed to be changed, and if the rear beam needs anything changing etc? any other general advice will be greatful Smile thanks.
Posted 29th Nov 2009 at 05:28
cress87

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Location: Norwich

Registered: 30 Mar 2007

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Post #2
Are the dampers f*cked? If so, they need replacing.

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Posted 29th Nov 2009 at 06:44
china_306 Banned!

Location: Stoke

Registered: 25 Nov 2009

Posts: 129

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Post #3
the car drops very low with even one person on the back... so im not sure if the dampers are gone or not, apart from them one wheel, passenger side has slight camber, this same sides wheel bearing needs changing too! how much work am i looking at here Sad
Posted 29th Nov 2009 at 06:55
jord294

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Location: somewhere in north wales

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Post #4
how longs a piece of string ???????

really depends on the extent of damage caused by the wheel bearing.

if the tube hasn't ovalled, you could rebuild the beam yourself foraround

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Posted 29th Nov 2009 at 16:42
china_306 Banned!

Location: Stoke

Registered: 25 Nov 2009

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Post #5
oh dear! i shud really look into getting that bearing changed! thanks guys for your input! wat parts do i need to order to change the wheel bearing? and is it a big job to do? i dont trust my local garages around here lol they tell u things which dont mean anything, in other words rob u!!
Posted 29th Nov 2009 at 20:04
d_p

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Location: Bournemouth

Registered: 19 Feb 2009

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Post #6
got question as well, which one is better
1. fit uprated rear shock (gaz gold) on
2. std dampers + 21mm torsion
3. std dampers, std torsion + solid beam mounts

sorry to hijack your thread mate but i think this quite helpful to know.

thanks

thanks.

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Posted 29th Nov 2009 at 20:20
china_306 Banned!

Location: Stoke

Registered: 25 Nov 2009

Posts: 129

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Post #7
lol dont worry abt it mate, im new to this sight although ive had my car nearly 2 years now im still learning... i was told these guys kno best Razz oh and if u have any input to my situation feel free.................
Posted 29th Nov 2009 at 20:22
d_p

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Location: Bournemouth

Registered: 19 Feb 2009

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Post #8
we are in the same boat mate about changing the rear dampers or go for uprated dampers or ask me question above but putting new bearings on the beam it's worth every pennies i believe.

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Posted 29th Nov 2009 at 20:27
china_306 Banned!

Location: Stoke

Registered: 25 Nov 2009

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Post #9
thats true, i never thort that im sure my dampers are gone beacuse they dont hold no tension at all... when i lowered the car is was ok for a few weeks i could have 2-3 ppl in the back and it was fyn, but recently ive noticed it drops really low with even one person in the back. i just need to kno wat parts i need to buy to sort this rear bearing out, and if it will sort out the camber on the one wheel :S dont fancy changing a rear beam :-|
Posted 29th Nov 2009 at 20:30
oecken

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Location: Mt Cook, New Zealand

Registered: 17 Feb 2009

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Post #10
strange that you cant have people in the back though? i can in mine (Unless there really fat) and mines lowered around 75 (Not my doing) on Avo Shocks / Dampers, but ive got neg camber on both sides, im getting a refurbished new beam in the new year and most likely Solid beam mounts too, and raised to around 40mm

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Posted 29th Nov 2009 at 21:42
adam b

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Post #11
d_p wrote:
got question as well, which one is better
1. fit uprated rear shock (gaz gold) on
2. std dampers + 21mm torsion
3. std dampers, std torsion + solid beam mounts

sorry to hijack your thread mate but i think this quite helpful to know.

thanks


What do you currently have on the front? You don't need 21mm TBs or solid rear mounts on a road car. I would personally buy new standard mounts, get a Hybrid Spoox / Ash rear ARB and get the best dampers you can afford. Gaz are ok, nothing special. You can get a normal TB'd car to go awfully quickly around corners trust me.

You do need to do the front dampers ideally with some of the same rate or make as well.

To the OP:
New standard dampers can only help. I would jack the car up on both sides with the handbrake off and move the wheels around to see if you have any obvious play in the bearings. If the wheel moves without the arm moving its the stub axle bearing, if the arm moves its the beam.

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Posted 29th Nov 2009 at 22:23
china_306 Banned!

Location: Stoke

Registered: 25 Nov 2009

Posts: 129

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Post #12
thanks for your advice guys Smile much appreciated.
Posted 30th Nov 2009 at 05:20
china_306 Banned!

Location: Stoke

Registered: 25 Nov 2009

Posts: 129

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Post #13
hi guys just an update. i went to my local garage today and had the car checked over. the wheel bearing does have play in it, but very little. and one of he dampers is weak too. the slight negative camber: i was advised that nothing can be said untill the car is striped from that side?

ive have been quoted
Posted 2nd Dec 2009 at 21:02
phillipm

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Location: Rotherham

Registered: 15 Oct 2006

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Post #14
Sounds like the rear beam is shot.

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Posted 2nd Dec 2009 at 21:05
china_306 Banned!

Location: Stoke

Registered: 25 Nov 2009

Posts: 129

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Post #15
Sad not good news, how would i go about to fix this, the camber is not bad at all tbh. and the arm didnt have play in it? wot sorts of parts will i need and any indication on prices? the car is a 1.6 meridian P3.
Posted 2nd Dec 2009 at 21:10

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