displaying posts 1 to 21 of 21

Author Subject: Front suspension overhaul, what else to replace?
luke89

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Location: Preston

Registered: 28 Aug 2014

Posts: 486

Status: Offline

Post #1
So I am fitting a pair of pug springs to my '6 as the ones on the car are a crappy combination of 2 non matching KYB springs.Whilst I am at it I'm going to fit new top mount bearings,P bushes(partner) and front bushes on the wishbones. Is there anything else that will be easily accessible and worth doing whilst I have those parts off?


Cheers.
Posted 19th Nov 2014 at 00:40
Tarmac terror

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Location: Southampton

Registered: 20 Mar 2014

Posts: 458

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Post #2
Balljoints, track rods and ends, anti-roll bar bushes, anti-roll bar links......


TT
Posted 19th Nov 2014 at 09:53
MisterGTR

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Location: Glasgow

Registered: 05 Aug 2014

Posts: 675

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Post #3
I was going to put together a comprehensive list of what to buy and where from. So this will be helpful. Ta

________________________________________

Turned 40 and in true cliched fashion buying one of the cars of my teenage dreams!
Posted 19th Nov 2014 at 10:03
Tarmac terror

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Location: Southampton

Registered: 20 Mar 2014

Posts: 458

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Post #4
If you REALLY want to go to town then I would suggest....

Front wishbone bushes
Rear P-bushes
Lower balljoints
Track rods
Track rod ends
Anti-roll bar bushes
Anti-roll bar links
Top mounts
Top mount bearings
New springs
New dampers (recommend Bilstein B4's if you just want something better than OEM but not coil-over stiff!!!)


Once you have done all that you will effectively have replaced the whole lot! Other things to consider would be:-

Full set of engine mounts
Rear mount fork bush
Steering rack gaiters
Gear linkages


They're not expensive and definately bring the car back to a factory feel..


Just don't buy the cheapest tat off Ebay!!!


TT
Posted 19th Nov 2014 at 14:28
MisterGTR

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Location: Glasgow

Registered: 05 Aug 2014

Posts: 675

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Post #5
Scott you're a star. Thanks. That's exactly the list I wanted to compile. I need a set of rears for the fat Datsun. That lot will probably cost the same. Smile

The only difference will be that I will Probably (unless convinced otherwise) go for b8 shocks as part of b12 kit. And I'll also get (if he's still doing) jord to do rear beam.

All really depends on what I can get done in this weather on the drive. I keep thinking I'll take it to a garage to get it done quicker, but that would defeat the point! Smile

________________________________________

Turned 40 and in true cliched fashion buying one of the cars of my teenage dreams!
Posted 19th Nov 2014 at 14:38
MisterGTR

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Location: Glasgow

Registered: 05 Aug 2014

Posts: 675

Status: Offline

Post #6
Oh and lemforder etc as suggested.

________________________________________

Turned 40 and in true cliched fashion buying one of the cars of my teenage dreams!
Posted 19th Nov 2014 at 14:39
luke89

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Location: Preston

Registered: 28 Aug 2014

Posts: 486

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Post #7
Cheers folks.

Ordered so far:
Pug OEM springs
Partner P-bushes
Front wishbone bushes
Top mount bearings

I intend to leave the top mounts themselves as I don't see any advantage to changing them if I've put new bearings in.I also can't afford new shocks so they will remain standard for now at least.

Still to order:

Lower Balljoints
Track rod ends
ARB bushes
Arb drop links
Gear Linkages
Gear shift bushes(I believe there are a couple of these?)
Clutch cable


I am hoping all this will give me the handling and gear change I am after as at the moment it really doesn't feel good.
Posted 19th Nov 2014 at 14:40
luke89

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Location: Preston

Registered: 28 Aug 2014

Posts: 486

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Post #8
Also what is the advantage of changing the track rod itself? The TRE is the only wear and tear part I would have thought?
Posted 19th Nov 2014 at 17:05
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,819

Status: Offline

Post #9
there's a balljoint on its inner end.

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Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 19th Nov 2014 at 17:20
luke89

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Location: Preston

Registered: 28 Aug 2014

Posts: 486

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Post #10
Ah ok cool. So what are my best bet for front shocks if I can't afford Billies?
Posted 20th Nov 2014 at 17:27
Tarmac terror

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Location: Southampton

Registered: 20 Mar 2014

Posts: 458

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Post #11
You'll get a pair of front B4's for about £85...

TT
Posted 20th Nov 2014 at 17:39
walker_texasranger

Seasoned Pro

Location: Sunny Retford

Registered: 26 Jan 2008

Posts: 2,502

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Post #12
Spooks were always pretty reasonable for the standard B4 shocks Shut up

If you are just changing the clutch cable to cure a heavy clutch then it's probably not worth it, it will feel amazing for about a week then revert back to its normal state Yes

________________________________________

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Hilux InvincibleX daily

306 No.13 Doh

Carp and specialist Anglers Click here
Posted 22nd Nov 2014 at 09:45
luke89

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Location: Preston

Registered: 28 Aug 2014

Posts: 486

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Post #13
Is that because they dry out again or because of the auto adjuster? Because I think my adjuster is screwed anyway, the clutch pedal never feels consistent so a new cable may well sort that.
Posted 22nd Nov 2014 at 19:32
MisterGTR

Senior User

Location: Glasgow

Registered: 05 Aug 2014

Posts: 675

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Post #14
luke89 wrote:
Is that because they dry out again or because of the auto adjuster? Because I think my adjuster is screwed anyway, the clutch pedal never feels consistent so a new cable may well sort that.



I've read about something on the clutch pedal which can be removed. Think there is an faq on it.Might be worth tying.

________________________________________

Turned 40 and in true cliched fashion buying one of the cars of my teenage dreams!
Posted 22nd Nov 2014 at 19:39
bigbadbowen

Seasoned Pro

Location: Winchester

Registered: 21 Nov 2003

Posts: 13,753

Status: Offline

Post #15
MisterGTR wrote:
luke89 wrote:
Is that because they dry out again or because of the auto adjuster? Because I think my adjuster is screwed anyway, the clutch pedal never feels consistent so a new cable may well sort that.



I've read about something on the clutch pedal which can be removed. Think there is an faq on it.Might be worth tying.


Helper spring on back of clutch pedal. It was a recall years ago to be removed Thumbs up

Heavy clutch will be a combination of worn clutch and cable change both for a nice light pedal Yes
Posted 22nd Nov 2014 at 19:57
luke89

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Location: Preston

Registered: 28 Aug 2014

Posts: 486

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Post #16
Sadly I can't afford to change the clutch at the minute so the cable may be a nice stop gap, I'll have a quick look for that spring too, sounds like that may make a difference if its still fitted.
Posted 22nd Nov 2014 at 20:47
mellowr1

Senior User

Location: Maidstone

Registered: 12 Jun 2012

Posts: 995

Status: Offline

Post #17
had my clutch cable changed few months back as the adjuster messed up. Totally changed the car ..... lovely feel to clutch and hasnt gone too stiff yetThumbs up
Posted 22nd Nov 2014 at 21:18
bigbadbowen

Seasoned Pro

Location: Winchester

Registered: 21 Nov 2003

Posts: 13,753

Status: Offline

Post #18
luke89 wrote:
Sadly I can't afford to change the clutch at the minute so the cable may be a nice stop gap, I'll have a quick look for that spring too, sounds like that may make a difference if its still fitted.


Then get a cable and then save for a clutch ? You can pick them up for about £60 -£100

Cables are a fooker to fit on a 6 as well Yes
Posted 22nd Nov 2014 at 21:22
luke89

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Location: Preston

Registered: 28 Aug 2014

Posts: 486

Status: Offline

Post #19
Its more the fitting costs Bowen, I've done a few clutches in my time and have the scars to prove it but I just can't take the time off work and I'd have to do the job on axle stands which is a royal PITA!
Posted 22nd Nov 2014 at 21:58
bigbadbowen

Seasoned Pro

Location: Winchester

Registered: 21 Nov 2003

Posts: 13,753

Status: Offline

Post #20
Get some one to help you bud ? It's a 2 man job to get the box back on as its a proper cvnt to get the box back on with the fork arm going behind the thrust bearing as well as having the input shaft dead square

I've only ever done clutches on axel stands - clutch arm pin is usually a proper biatch to get out if it's never been out. I also suggest use cable ties to hold the loom out the way when re fitting the box as I've trapped plugs loads of times.

Also if you do have a go your self check the fork arm is in the right place before you put everything back on the car - it's easy to get it wrong and have to start all again

Oh and while your at it change the crank seal
Posted 22nd Nov 2014 at 23:19
Kenan

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Location: Exmouth

Registered: 20 Oct 2013

Posts: 307

Status: Offline

Post #21
Tarmac terror wrote:
TT


I owned a GTR a few years back and you forum names seems familar, or am I just going mad ?!?
Posted 13th May 2015 at 23:34

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