bypassing the Matrix - Engines Forum - Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club

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Subject: bypassing the Matrix

james_geldart

Senior User

Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 20 Jul 2005

Posts: 943

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Post #1

hi everyone,

does anyone know specifically how to do this?

I imagine it involves cutting the two pipes under the bonnet before they go into the bulkhead, and joining them?

My question is, how do you join them, what exactly do i need?

Also will this effect the cold air blowing onto the windscreen? Is the heater matrixs only function to supply hot air inside the car?

The cars only really going to be used on the track, and getting there and back.

cheers

James

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Posted 13th Oct 2008 at 00:56

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rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

Posts: 26,793

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Post #2

you need a bit of pipe joiner, i forget the internal diameter but it's about 15mm from memory. car builder solutions [cbsonline.co.uk] will have them and ebay would be the best bet

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Posted 13th Oct 2008 at 02:16

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rufio306

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Location: ireland

Registered: 12 Mar 2008

Posts: 136

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Post #3

im not 100% on a 6 but in my old dt there was 2 pipes going through the bulkhead , think they had a elbow or bend in them, would imagine you just join them together with suitable hose,

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Posted 13th Oct 2008 at 02:17

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rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

Posts: 26,793

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Post #4

i needed about 160mm of heater hose to join them after bypassing my matrix but i've removed it completely

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Posted 13th Oct 2008 at 02:25

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james_geldart

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Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 20 Jul 2005

Posts: 943

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Post #5

rikky wrote:

you need a bit of pipe joiner, i forget the internal diameter but it's about 15mm from memory. car builder solutions [cbsonline.co.uk] will have them and ebay would be the best bet

what a website! its giving me all kinds of ideas.

sorry for being a dumbass rikky, but could you direct me to the hose/pipe joiner i need?

cheers

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Posted 13th Oct 2008 at 02:45

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rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

Posts: 26,793

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Post #6

clicky- the exact one i bought

16mm internal diameter both ends

Smile

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Posted 13th Oct 2008 at 02:54

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sarahsix

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Location: Cenarth

Registered: 04 Feb 2008

Posts: 2,996

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Post #7

my old 1.4 beasty had central heating pipe doing the same job LOL

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Posted 13th Oct 2008 at 02:56

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james_geldart

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Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 20 Jul 2005

Posts: 943

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Post #8

rikky wrote:

clicky- the exact one i bought

16mm internal diameter both ends

Smile

cheers mate, is it just a case if joining the two pipes that go into the bulk head? do i need to cut them?

I assume the only thing that means is no hot air inside?

bit new to all this, but having fun learning what i wont need for the track, and getting rid!

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Posted 13th Oct 2008 at 03:01

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dave

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Location: Larkhall

Registered: 18 Apr 2007

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Post #9

They should just be held on with jubile (SP) clips, screw driver will undo them or iirc a 6/7mm socket.

Yeah you will loose hot air in the cabin but thats it.

Posted 13th Oct 2008 at 03:08

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rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

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Post #10

good luck clearing your window with cold air aswell LOL

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Posted 13th Oct 2008 at 04:04

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james_geldart

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Registered: 20 Jul 2005

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Post #11

cheers guys, i'll be giving it a go next saturday!

as well as finding more things i can get rid of... Whistle

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Posted 13th Oct 2008 at 04:05

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james_geldart

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Registered: 20 Jul 2005

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Post #12

rikky wrote:

good luck clearing your window with cold air aswell LOL

wont it clear at all? i thought it just took longer....

theres always this:

http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/electric-demist-heater--demst-309-p.asp

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Posted 13th Oct 2008 at 04:08

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puglover Banned!

Location: Far out there

Registered: 08 Jun 2006

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Post #13

heated screens are about

Posted 13th Oct 2008 at 04:12

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pete_rallye

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Location: Yorkshire

Registered: 12 Dec 2002

Posts: 5,253

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Post #14

I used some 22mm copper pipe, with 2 90degree elbows and made a 'u' shape, wrapped it in plastic tape then conected it to the standard hose using 2 hose clips, worked ideal. You can just plug the 2 hoses though, not having flow through the pipes doesn't affect the engine.

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Posted 13th Oct 2008 at 04:25

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james_geldart

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Post #15

i'll look into that method too.

will i still be able to demist the windscreen with cold air? Unsure

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Posted 13th Oct 2008 at 05:05

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rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

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Post #16

not very well.. takes an age!

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Posted 13th Oct 2008 at 05:10

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notch000

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Post #17

i tried this on an Astra and it didnt work, engine suffered chronic overheating afterwards till i reconnected, dont botch your pipes altogether as you may need to reconnect them pronto, also the plug in dash heaters are useless

Posted 13th Oct 2008 at 15:46

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owain

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Location: Essex

Registered: 20 May 2009

Posts: 9,185

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Post #18

Well, this seems to be the thread I was after, no point starting a new one. Good to see that even two and a half years ago Rikky was still p*ssing on people's parades.

Before I schoolboy massively, if I understand correctly I can simply do whatever's necessary to block off the two outlets on the block that go to the matrix, this won't affect circulation through the engine?

I don't see how it would cause overheating unless you were dumping heat through the matrix, which I'm not anyway.

So, anything suitable I can find on those two block outlets, sack off the rest...?

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Posted 15th Jun 2011 at 04:34

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rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

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Post #19

i've blocked mine up, one thing i do notice now is it takes longer for the oil to get up to temp with normal driving but even slightly thrashing it and it'll be back up to temp nicely. i'm running a mocal 16row though

mine's an mi16 engine so not sure on the gti6 one, but mine had 2 going to the matrix i think and one to the radiator - but i changed my whole radiator system aswell to a 16v xsi one without any oil/heat exchange etc

it'll make sense more if the engine is out infront of you!

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Posted 15th Jun 2011 at 04:38

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owain

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Post #20

I was going to make a joke about how taking the red pill would make you bypass the matrix, but then I couldn't remember if it was red or blue, then I realised I'm a massive w*nker so left it there.

I'm surprised it takes longer, surely without the matrix and pipework there's less coolant in the engine, so should heat up quicker?

Mine definitely has the two at the back just looping through the matrix, I remember from all the times I've had to fix it.

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Posted 15th Jun 2011 at 04:41

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rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

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Post #21

actually on my engine one came up to a metal pipe at the back of the head and then to the back of the thermostat outlet, which i welded up and blocked off. this may have transferred heat somewhere and made oil warm up quicker, not sure - but it's all ok anyway and i saved about 60m of pipe and seriously declutted the bay aswell

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Posted 15th Jun 2011 at 04:42

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rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

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Post #22

dunno if they shed any light atall on anything

the black pipe is the one i ditched aswell. the outlets are completely blocked off except the one which goes to the lower rad hose

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Posted 15th Jun 2011 at 04:44

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owain

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Location: Essex

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Post #23

Ah, gotcha. I reckon a trip to B&Q and some imagination should sort it then.

BUT NOT TOMORROW. B&Q do Biddy Wednesdays now, they're a frickin nightmare.

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Posted 15th Jun 2011 at 04:44

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rikky 🦔

Location: cheshire

Registered: 28 Feb 2004

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Post #24

B&Q... for.... ?!

i've never bought car stuff from B&Q to tell you the truth LOL

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Posted 15th Jun 2011 at 04:45

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owain

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Post #25

Ah that's really quite different to my engine, mine just has two outlets on the back, should be far simpler.

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Posted 15th Jun 2011 at 04:45

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