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Author Subject: Replacing the handbrake cables
lank

Regular

Location: Carlisle

Registered: 11 Oct 2007

Posts: 158

Status: Offline

Post #1
Hi, I've done a search but can only find an FAQ on adjusting the handbrake.

My handbrake is seizing on slightly when pulling away and Im sure its the cables seizing up.

Is it hard to replace the cables? Whats the best way of doing it?

Ive got a phase 1 gti6 if there is any difference between models?

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Posted 24th Jan 2008 at 20:19
marcgti6

Senior User

Location: West Yorkshire

Registered: 20 Jul 2005

Posts: 883

Status: Offline

Post #2
Right, here goes!

Pretty easy job fella. Took me about 30 min I think. Don't think there is any difference between phases but not 100% sure. GSF are pretty reasonable for the cables.

First you will need to jack car up and put it on stands. Next off the back wheels.

I'm not 100% sure if it's necessary but the mid section of the exhaust needs to come of at least as the cables enter through the floor to the lever.

Next you need to get the plastic trim around the handbrake cable up. There's a couple of torx screws by the rear ashtray and some more at the front under the handbrake gaiter. Once you've got these off you should be able to loosen off the adjuster nut (you can see this clearly in the FAQ) and take each cable out.

Next up you will need to knock the old cables out of the handbrake mechanism on the calipers. I can't exactly remembered how I did this but I think I used a punch or something. You can rag it out anyway just don't damage caliper!

You will then need to get under the car and pull the old cables through remembering where they are laid. Then get new cables ready and feed them from calipers through to the cabin following the route the old ones were taken from.

I think I fed them into the cabin first and put the ends into the adjuster block then pulled them through making sure there was enough spare to feed into caliper.

Then you've gotta connect up with calipers, they may need some pursuasion to get through but the hole into the C shaped clip (the big hole is splined I think) it's not that hard though.

Once that's done get under car and double check everything. You can then adjust handbrake. I pulled my lever up to the first couple of clicks and then tightened the nut accordingly, not too tight though. You can play around with it and set it as you like.

Replace trim around lever and et voila, you sould be done!

Hope this helps. I'm sure if I've cocked up or missed anything someone will be along to correct me!

Have fun Thumbs up

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Posted 24th Jan 2008 at 21:55
silky

Seasoned Pro

Location: Chelmsford, Essex

Registered: 29 Dec 2002

Posts: 3,454

Status: Offline

Post #3
I need to do this, good little guide Marc.

One question, does any part of the exhaust have to come off for definite ?

At any point, does the cable clip onto anywhere else, like the fuel tank/beam etc ?

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Posted 22nd Jan 2009 at 14:21
greenbelt

Seasoned Pro

Location: How's Life In London?

Registered: 23 Apr 2006

Posts: 1,960

Status: Offline

Post #4
Can Admin move this to the FAQ section please?

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Posted 20th Mar 2011 at 15:20
owain

Seasoned Pro

Location: Essex

Registered: 20 May 2009

Posts: 9,185

Status: Offline

Post #5
When I did mine I couldn't see any way of doing it without removing the exhaust, but maybe you could do something with a pullthrough of sorts.

I seem to remember adding in a couple of cable ties to hold them up under the fuel tank.

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Posted 20th Mar 2011 at 15:41
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,539

Status: Offline

Post #6
more often than not its the caliper not the cable.

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Posted 20th Mar 2011 at 17:46
davedgti6

Seasoned Pro

Location: whiston, prescot

Registered: 28 May 2006

Posts: 1,651

Status: Offline

Post #7
welshpug! wrote:
more often than not its the caliper not the cable.


Just had this happen on my 6 , piston was coming out on application of brakes, but was not retracting causing a slight bind, piston would not wind back in at all so I removed one pad then pushed down on the brake to force the piston out, cleaned up the grubby piston then wound it back in, replaced pad, pumped up brakes and all was well

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Posted 21st Mar 2011 at 00:27
tvrfan007

Seasoned Pro

Location: In the garage

Registered: 29 May 2005

Posts: 3,466

Status: Offline

Post #8
I dropped my exhaust off all the rear hangers and rested it on the trolley jack, you only need to undo the heatshield so that you can follow the path of the passenger side cable.

drivers side one runs under the fuel tank in a c shaped conduit which is metal. I prised it out with a flat bladed screwdriver, opened it up with two of them, then fed new cable in and clamped shut with mole grips.

It's straightforward. Drivers = 30 mins, passenger = 1 hour. These times include brews.

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Posted 21st Mar 2011 at 00:57

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