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Author Subject: Drop-link FAQ
seanpool-uk

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 11 Aug 2004

Posts: 3,433

Status: Offline

Post #1
FAQ for factory drop links fitting/removal has disappeared and I can only see the ‘phillipm’ Rose jointed one in FAQ section. So knocked this up whilst bored at work since I snapped some pictures last time out. You will know when the drops-links are past it; as more often than not there's a lovely knocking noise traveling over small bumps or by just turning steering if they completely destroyed.

-Step 1: Get the wheel off and jack car side you making a start on, use some Axle stands safety etc.

-Step 2: Clean up the nuts securing drop link in place both top and bottom.

-Step 3: Your need 16mm socket as always, more likely than not the joint will start spinning as you try to undo nut(s), don’t panic as there’s no need for grinder at this point. Position a jack at the base of where antiroll bar attaches to drop link (see pic 1), jack the drop link up to apply pressure, casing the bushes to stick fast. If by some horrid stroke of miss fortune the above failed then stick a decent set of Mole Grips on the base of thread which is covered by the bushes weather seal (see pic 2 mole grips go on area circled), simply cut or tear that off weather seal and apply Mole Grips (its not like your be using the duff drop link again). Both nuts should be fairly easy to remove with either method or even using both together, but obviously make sure the thread is muck free before attempting to undo. If you mush the thread as your undoing, well then you’re going to have issues.

Pic 1,2 & 3







-Step 4: Once the nuts are off you can lower the pressure on drop link via jack, dont worry coz the anti roll bar won’t go smacking the floor so just remove the duff drop link. There should be washers either side of thread fixing area behind nut, these are ‘supposed’ to aid in stopping the nut sticking fast casing the turning issue (open to debate). If you’re going to use the same nuts again then clean up washer(s) and nut beforehand, I purchased new set (the new nuts are all in one).

-Step 5: Clean up anti roll bar tip and the upper mounting area, to fully tighten nuts you should apply some pressure on underside of drop link again so bushes stick fast. Double check all secure, job done! (See pic 4 & 5).

Pic 4 & 5





-Step 6: Repeat the above for other side, whole job should take around 20mins per-side if decent area cleaning and care is taken. Last two pics show old versus new, as you can see the old drop-links were well and truly shafted. The latest Peugeot dealer ones seem to have better grade weather seals and the rubbers fixed in place slightly diff method - so should help a tad in lasting longer, I hope! Edit: just to clear up confusion, copper grease applied after job done to protect thread tip and nut skin against corrosion.

Pic 6 & 7





Now please don’t go blaming me if you bugger up somewhere along the line, above method has worked every time I’ve replaced 306 drop links - so it should work for you as well. Oh and before anyone asks, the black stuff on car frame is Waxoil anti rust protection, worked a treat on every car ive owned. Wink
Posted 6th Jun 2007 at 23:26
seanpool-uk

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 11 Aug 2004

Posts: 3,433

Status: Offline

Post #2
Admins when you have a moment and happy with the above, would you be so kind as to move thread to FAQ section, cheers.
Posted 6th Jun 2007 at 23:05
mabgti

NV motors

Location: Bham tunnel @7400rpm

Registered: 28 Aug 2003

Posts: 9,127

Status: Offline

Post #3
Why have you copper greased a LOCK NUT?

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Posted 6th Jun 2007 at 23:13
seanpool-uk

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 11 Aug 2004

Posts: 3,433

Status: Offline

Post #4
That not copper grease as explained. Edit: If you mean the coating on thread, was apllied 'after' job done, just to stop corrosion and muck getting on thread tip. Not going to dip the locking nut in a vat of copper grease, kind of defeats the object.
Posted 6th Jun 2007 at 23:22

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