displaying posts 1 to 14 of 14

Author Subject: Top mount / Bearing FAQ
puglife

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Registered: 16 Feb 2007

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Post #1


Ok, looking through the FAQ's I couldn't see a top mount one, so thought I would make one. It's quite simple, but some may think it's a harder job than it is!

So, first things first, get all you tools ready!

You will need (obviously) a new top mount and a new bearing. The bolts on my car on the droplink, hub carrier and balljoint were all 16 or 17mm. The three top bolts (engine bay ones seen in first pic) are 13mm. The one in the middle of the mount needs to have an allen key placed in the middle to undo (I think the allen key is 8mm) and the actual nut is 20mm approx, not sure as I used old tools with whitworth measurements!



So here goes, you have all your tools right?
Jack up the car, take off the wheel and get some axle stands under there!

Before you do anything, I would recommend slacking of the bolt below a little as it'll make it easier than spending ages when the strut is off the car!
Only undo it 2 or 3 turns though!



Got a bit of 'Welly Finger' going on in that pic Thumbs up You may need to pop an allen key on the middle of the bolt to allow the nut to turn. I just used a screwdriver!


Next, you will need to undo three bolts. Firstly, undo the upper droplink nut, and the hub carrier pinch bolt where the bottom of the strut sits.
You can see thse bolts below, bit of a rubbish pic though. Please note, you can totally undo both these bolts but you may wat to leave the hub one in for a bit!




Next, you will need to jack up under the wishbone or balljoint a little, so that the top droplink bolt comes away from the strut easily.


After you have done this, then undo the pinch bolt at the bottom of the hub, and pull the balljoint out of the bottom of the hub.
This will allow you move the hub down further to relaease it from the strut.


With all the botls off, you will need to get the hub off the bottom of the strut. To do this, I used a fat chisel, and put it in the gap where the pinch bolt was at the bottom of the strut. Tap downwards slighty but not too hard. We want to gently move the hub down the strut and off the end without it falling down and pulling the driveshaft out!

After a while you'll be left with the hub floating and the strut just left hanging in the arch. Stick something under the hub to support it for the time being

Unbolt the three 13mm bolts as in pic one, and holding the bottom of the strut, slowly angle and lower it out of the arch.

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Posted 24th May 2007 at 02:29
puglife

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Post #2
You will end up holding the strut. Now to get all your next bits ready.

Get the spring compressors and your new top mount and bearings. The top mount in the pic below is the one I took off, but the bearings are the second set after I wrecked the first ones by pulling them apart Roll eyes




Follow the instructions that came with your spring compressors. I found that my spring compressors had to be tightened pretty much exactly on both sides else they'd slip and I'd have to start again. To combat this I used some insulating tape wrapped thickly around the springs each side of the clamps to stop too much movement!

When in place, it should look similar to this.



So, tighten up the compressors until the springs have about an inch between them. You may have to do more or less if you have non standard springs. Don't rush and make sure they are compressed enough though or else you'll undo the end and it'll fly off!


Next, undo that bolt you slackened first (the one with the allen key hole in it). When you have done this, remove the bolt and the actual top mount itself. You will then see the metal spring cap, with the old bearing sat in it.




Turn this cap over, and tap out the old bearing. Clean up the seat for the bearing, and then carefully place the new bearings into the seat. Gently push down into the seat until about 2mm of lip is poking out on the underside. Turn the bearings, they should move freely.

Next, get the strut and using the bit at the top with the thread, pull it up as far as it will go. then sit the cap over the strut and sit it on the spring. You will notice the cup has a place for the end of the spring to sit and prevent it moving Thumbs up

Pop the new top mount onto the metal piece, lining up the circular cut in the base of the mount over the bearings and so the strut thread part comes up through the and replace the washer and the bolt, with a bit of threadlock / loctite for good measure. Do this up tight but don't overtighten else your bearings will struggle to move and make a slight grind!

You now just need to refit, which in the words of Haynes, is reverse of removal! On the top mount you will see there is a presence pin sticking up, put this up through the little hole on the left of the rearmost 13mm bolt.

You're done!

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Back once again I'm the Moonstone Master :p
Posted 24th May 2007 at 02:17
puglife

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Post #3
Hope that helps some of you! I'd recommend using nylock on all of the hub bolts!!

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Posted 24th May 2007 at 02:18
Rich E Forum Admin

Location: Hertfordshire

Registered: 27 Apr 2005

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Post #4
Good effort Thumbs up

There are a couple of tricks that can make this job even easier though.

If you jack up the complete hub assembly and fit the spring compressors with the springs already compressed then you can do them up enough by hand to mean you donít need to touch them once the strut assembly is off the car. Changing the mount and bearing is then a two minute job after the assembly is off the car.

Also, you donít need to take the ball joints out of the hubs. With the strut clamp opened up nicely it will just drop down out of the way.

The shock top nuts should be 21mm, the mount bolts are 13mm and the rest should be 16mm or 17mm depending on the age of the car, but there are no 18mm fastenings used as standard.

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Rich
Posted 24th May 2007 at 02:28
puglife

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Post #5
Ideal, cheers rich. I meant to put 17. Thanks for picking up on it. Cheers for your input!

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Posted 24th May 2007 at 02:30
brad

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Registered: 07 May 2007

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Post #6
ideal this thread has come up just in time for me to do mine. great FAQ kris

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Posted 24th May 2007 at 02:33
puglife

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Post #7
I'll give you a hand if you want, and if you want to do the wishbones anytime too!

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Posted 24th May 2007 at 02:43
bobsheavyoil2 Banned!

Location: truro

Registered: 11 Oct 2005

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Post #8
jack the strut up first thats a bloody good idea !
Posted 24th May 2007 at 06:58
puglife

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Post #9
Yeah, I never really though of that til Rich said. It will compress the spring a lot more and much quicker than using the heathen spring compressors Angry

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Posted 24th May 2007 at 14:50
bobsheavyoil2 Banned!

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Post #10
yeah ive not had the best of luck with them . i have those same ones that you have ! their junk . found it difficult to compress a standard spring enough to re fit
Posted 24th May 2007 at 23:12
puglife

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Post #11
Well, I managed to do it twice with a bit of practice. I reckon if I did it properly in the first place it'd be better!

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Back once again I'm the Moonstone Master :p
Posted 25th May 2007 at 00:49
seanpool-uk

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Post #12
Thought id be helpfull by adding these pics of new parts as i had them laying about. Ones for some other model 306, the others for Gti-6/Rallye, no idea which as its been a while since lowering my 6 - hence both pics.


Posted 26th May 2007 at 10:40
acos205

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Post #13
You forgot to mention weather changing them solved your knocking problems!? I've got a similar issue with mine and can only assume its top mounts
Posted 29th May 2007 at 05:27
puglife

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Post #14
Yeah, after tightening top engine mount, and changing all wishbones and bushes and droplinks the bearing change has made it all sweet as a nut Wink

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Posted 29th May 2007 at 21:52

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