Now, if it's anything like my car, it eats droplinks for breakfast, so your old ones with look shite:





Not for long though, so lets get them off!
16mm socket as always - but, of course, the joint starts spinning, no put the grinder down - STEP AWAY FROM THE POWER TOOLS - just jack the antiroll bar up:



Which pressurises the joint, causes the cheap nylon bushes to stick, and lets you wind the nut off. Incidentally, your never going to have that problem again, isn't that nice?

________________________________________

- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
Email me!
Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.

Now, fitment is pretty easy - you have a nice hex head both sides, so not more joints that won't do up without pressure on them, the washers are all in order so no need to muck about there, just take the nut off the bolt, and 1 of the plain washers, push the bolt through the upper mounting, and put the washer and nut on - and torque it up just like normal.

Now the lower is a little more tricky, if you wish you can just wind the bars right in, by slackening the locknuts right off and turning the bar by hand (One left thread, one right thread, so this will extend/shorten the bar).
Once it's at its shortest, nip the locknuts up (both 19mm).

Now fit the lower joint (note, you need both the old droplinks off first), note that after you've taken the nut and washer off the lower joint, the next washer is the d-shaped one - the flat on the washer faces inwards towards the car (horizontally), this is to account for a ridge in the arb. Bolt it up, torque as normal and do the other side and you're away.

However, you haven't got the most out of the setup.


These adjustable links allow you to take the preload out of the arb that has been induced by manufacturing tolerences, sag over the years, and chassis differences. Ever noticed you car turns one way easier than the other? This is the main reason why.

Don't connect the lower joints, lower the car to the floor, then roll it back and forth a foot or two to settle the suspension.
Now, slacken the locknuts, and adjust one bar to midway between it's maximum and minimum extension (maximum is marked by a black ring on the thread), Now bolt the lower joint up on that link, leave the locknuts slack for now.

Go around the other side, undo the locknuts, and extend/shorten the bar until it goes through the arb, without having to move the arb if possible - if your car is really bad, you may have to go back to the first side, and adjust that bar:-

If you need more length then you have available, then shorten the other bar, and vice versa.

Once complete, fit the lower joint, and torque it up.
Then tighten the locknuts up on both sides (don't forget the other one!), the easiest way is with two 19mm spanners, but you can just hold the bar and tighten the nuts, you have more than enough leverage.
Ensure you keep both joints as close to parrallel as possible, they should both face the exact same way

My car was a quite astounding 18mm out from side to side on the arb.







Take it out, note the extra steering feel just off centre, combined with a smoother turn in, and realise that she now turns right and left with equal vigour, and a bit less roll to boot!

And take some pics of your shiny bits to post up!


The end!

________________________________________

- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
Email me!
Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.

Did you say they were adjustable? If so what are the advantages of making them longer/shorter?

Edit: other than getting the loads equal from left to right, which is what i guess your saying in your essay

________________________________________

My old man wrote me a letter from prison once. It said if you don't want to end up in here, stay away from crime, women and drugs. Trouble is, that don't leave you much else to do, does it?

Bolting system revised with slight different length inserts so I can get rid of the washer arrangement needed for strut clearance.

New arrangement - much simpler:



You must make sure the plain bolt is tight before fitting though, otherwise the bolt won't tension, wind it up hand tight, then nip it

________________________________________

- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
Email me!
Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.