displaying posts 1 to 11 of 11

Author Subject: Engine Removal FAQ
bud_205

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Location: Bromsgrove

Registered: 02 Mar 2005

Posts: 144

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Post #1
This FAQ aims to show a basic technique for removing a Gti6 engine using a crane and load leveler. Please can no-one post till I have finished.

The job is split into two stages, firstly removing and disconnecting the relevant components in order to remove the engine and then secondly actually removing it from the car.

I cover the major tasks for stage 1 briefly, MORE DETAIL CAN BE FOUND IN THE OTHER FAQíS on this sight so refer to those as and when you need.

Please remember to make what notes you need, take pictures and label connectors and pipes to ease refitting, you will be glad you did cos you wont remember!!

The overall plan is to remove the engine with all components and engine loom still in place complete with gearbox. This is relatively quick and straightforward. Read the whole guide before you start, if you are not 100% confident. Also consult the 306 haynes manual.

The first task is to get the front of car jacked up and on to axel stands. Take care when jacking and chock the wheels when the stands are in place. Remove the bonnet too for ease now too.
Posted 10th Mar 2007 at 06:02
bud_205

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Location: Bromsgrove

Registered: 02 Mar 2005

Posts: 144

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Post #2
First up you need to remove both driveshafts from the gearbox. There are 2 routes here. Route 1 is to fully remove both shafts in the usual way completely from the vehicle. Route 2 is to release the wishbone ball joint and just pull the shaft free of the box leaving it still bolted into the hub (tie them up to the underside of the car to keep the joint together).

Whether you take route 1 or 2 is up to you. If you arenít going to put the car back together or not for a while route 1 is for you whereas if itís a quick engine swap route 2 will be quicker.

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Posted 10th Mar 2007 at 05:53
bud_205

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Location: Bromsgrove

Registered: 02 Mar 2005

Posts: 144

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Post #3
Next up unbolt the cat from the manifold (These springs\bolts are always a pain in the ass)and disconnect the lambda sensor at the black and red conector.

Disconnect the white plug to the speedo drive while you are down there.
Posted 10th Mar 2007 at 05:54
bud_205

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Location: Bromsgrove

Registered: 02 Mar 2005

Posts: 144

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Post #4
Working in the engine bay now remove the battery and strip the parts away until you have access to the gearbox engine mount.

Disconnect the reverse cable from the gearbox.

Remove gear selection rods.

Release the clutch cable from the gearbox.

Next remove all the inlet system up to the throttle body (air pipes, filter and box etc). Also disconnect the accelerator cable.

Remove the brake master cylinder and remove the hose going from the cam driven pump to the brake servo.

Theres a black box in the drivers side wing that is connected up to the inlet system. Find the pipes running to and from this and disconnect them.

Disconnect the fuel lines running to the fuel rail.

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Posted 10th Mar 2007 at 05:54
bud_205

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Location: Bromsgrove

Registered: 02 Mar 2005

Posts: 144

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Post #5
Drain the cooling system and remove the radiator.

Disconnect the coolant pipes from the heater matrix.

Disconnect the top hose on the power steering pump from the reservoir. Unbolt the connector to the high pressure hose at the subframe join leaving this pipe connected to the pump and the engine.

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Posted 10th Mar 2007 at 05:54
bud_205

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Location: Bromsgrove

Registered: 02 Mar 2005

Posts: 144

Status: Offline

Post #6
At this point I should make a small confession. The car I took apart was an early car with no aircon. TBH tho it makes little difference to this FAQ. If the system has no broken pipes you must assume there is some refrigerant still present and so the best option for you is to remove the aux belt and unbolt the compressor from the sump.

If there is a broken pipe you know the system is empty! In this case disconnect the pipes yourself if you preffer.
Posted 10th Mar 2007 at 05:55
bud_205

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Location: Bromsgrove

Registered: 02 Mar 2005

Posts: 144

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Post #7
Disconnect the 2 engine loom connectors on the passenger wing. You donít need to remove the connector totally from the wing as it is shown in the pic just unplug it. Find any other electrical stuff that needs to be moved\disconnected and take care of it. Theres also the alarm to disconnect and other electrical components in that wing (and elsewhere) that I have forgotten! Once you have it all unplugged wrap all the connectors up in a bag to protect them.

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Posted 10th Mar 2007 at 06:04
bud_205

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Location: Bromsgrove

Registered: 02 Mar 2005

Posts: 144

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Post #8
Have a good check over and confirm that you are happy that the only things connecting the engine to the chassis are the 3 engine mounts. There will be things I have missed so be thorough, by this point you will be confident of dealing with any issues even if you werenít when you started!

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Posted 10th Mar 2007 at 05:55
bud_205

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Location: Bromsgrove

Registered: 02 Mar 2005

Posts: 144

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Post #9
Set the arm on the engine crane to the longest setting it can cope with 250kgs. Slide the crane into position.

Connect the load leveler to the 2 lifting eyes on the engine.

Take the weight of the engine with the crane. Donít lift the engine at all though cos you may pull it off the stands. Adjust the load leveler so that it will be level (hook to crain dead centre).

Remove the bolt that goes through the lower engine mount.

Release the gearbox mount.

Release the top engine mount.

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Posted 10th Mar 2007 at 05:56
bud_205

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Location: Bromsgrove

Registered: 02 Mar 2005

Posts: 144

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Post #10
The engine is now totally supported by the crane. As you will see the engine will not lift straight out due to the length of the gearbox protruding under the passenger wing. The technique is to tilt the engine by lowering the gearbox end and slightly rotating the engine to bring the cambelt end towards the front of the car. Keep adjusting the load leveler and slowly raising the engine, guiding it with your hands and maneuver it clear.

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Posted 10th Mar 2007 at 05:56
bud_205

Regular

Location: Bromsgrove

Registered: 02 Mar 2005

Posts: 144

Status: Offline

Post #11
When the engine is high enough to clear the slam panel ease the crane backwards until the engine can be lowered onto something suitable. I used to use hardboard with casters fitted (cheap and effective) although I have an engine stand now with the same piece of hardboard across the legs.

Breathe a sigh of relief as the engine is out. Thatís probably only one phase of your project tho so the tools wont be away for long!

Can an Admin add this to FAQ please Wink

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Posted 10th Mar 2007 at 05:57

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