Then using a socket undo the nut which is in the position shown, note the access hole in the panel in front. Remember the position of the 2 washers (one on either side). Remove the nut and leave the bolt in place.

bud_205 has attached the following image:

Slacken and remove the nut shown on the lower monting hole, no need to hold the head of the bolt as it is captive. Again note where the washers go and also the position of the compensator and flexi hose.

bud_205 has attached the following image:

The old shock should now withdraw from the car. Prime the new shock by pulling it in and out a few times then fit it ensuring the flat portion faces up towards the car. When refitting replace any bolts and nuts you arent happy with (ideally you should replace all the nuts that have the nylon inserts). To get the trailing arm in position for the shock to attach it will be necsarry to jack the trailing arm. You will have to tap the new bolts in with a hammer, remember to do the lower one fully to stop it spinning without holding it.

Parts Used: 2 x 5206k6 Rear Shocks

As mentioned above the exhaust prevents access to the upper bolt which prevents it being with drawn. Unfortunately there is no way around moving the exhaust. I prefer to do this by unbolting it rather than leaving it hanging as i fear it could be damaged or damage the manifold. I also prefer to split it a the cat because i find it easier to get it to seal.

My exhaust technique:
Remove clamp in between cat and centre pipe.
Un hook all hangers from here to the back of the car.
When you get it the rearmost hanger unhook it and support the back box with a trolly jack.
Slide the zorst off the cat and remove.

You also then have to remove the heat sheild which is 3 10mm bolts and then you can finally remove that bolt!! Be very careful with the bolts on the heat sheild because they are prone to being rusted solid and as the threads are part of the chassis its more of a pain than just replcing a bolt!

Could an admin FAQ this please