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Author Subject: Driveshaft\Eng.Mount\Speedo Housing HowTo
bud_205

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Registered: 02 Mar 2005

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Post #1
Hi all

This guide attempts to show you how to go about changing a driveshaft on the GTi6. I do the long (offside) shaft and this also shows you all you need to do the other one which is marginally easier!

While I did this I also changed the lower engine mount bush and replaced the speedo drive housing as mine was damaged and I also breifly outline these jobs too.

SAFETY:

Before you start have a think about the risks and work slowly and methodically. The greatest danger is jacking up the car - get this wrong and you could easily wreck your motor and\or kill yourself! This isnt being dramatic.

WARNING:

I accept NO RESPONSIBILITY for anything anyone does apart from myself, this includes what happens to you or your car if you follow this guide.

TOOLS:

You will need hammer, chisels\punches, socket set, breaker bar\extension tube, screwdriver\crowbar and spanner set as well as at least one good trolly jack and 2 axel stands. Other stuff may help you or be needed if things dont go smoothly such as dremel, angle grinder, drill, coil spring compressors etc etc!!

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Posted 20th Apr 2005 at 09:32
bud_205

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Registered: 02 Mar 2005

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Post #2
First job is to remove the hub nut on the side of the car with the failed DS, this is done with car on the ground as it is extremely tight and would just rotate the wheel if this was raised. Unfortunately access is not possible through a cyclone alloy wheel so:

* loosen wheel bolts (car on ground)
* raise wheel off ground with jack under sill jacking point.
* remove wheel bolts and alloy wheel
*Tap out the rclip with a punch.
*Remove metal cap to reveal hubnut.
* put on spare steel wheel. lower car. remove jack.
*Using breaker bar and 35mm impact socket loosen hubnut. You may need an assistant to press the footbrake to stop the wheel from turning!! It is VERY tight but a long bar should see you through. Dont take it all the way off just loosen so it can be removed without bother.

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Posted 20th Apr 2005 at 10:23
bud_205

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Post #3
Now time to jack up the car and support it on axel stands.

*Slide trolly jack under the car from the front and raise the saddle untill it contacts the rear-central part of the subframe.
*Chock the rear wheels.
*Jack the car up slowly and carefully - you must not be under it at all when doing this!
*When it is high enough slip the axel stands under the sill jacking points (one each side - same height).
* lower the car onto the stands.
* remove the trolly jack.

Optional but recomended!
* take the trolly jack round to the side of the car and slide it back under to the same point on the subframe.
* raise the jack till it just makes contact but does not take any weight - this is for safety.

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Posted 19th Apr 2005 at 23:58
bud_205

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Registered: 02 Mar 2005

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Post #4
Drain the gearbox by removing the drain plug, catch the gearbox oil.

I always use a spanner rather than a sump key but you can use whichever.

Drain plug:

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Posted 20th Apr 2005 at 00:03
bud_205

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Post #5
Loosen the retaining nuts on the bolts on the engine mount housing for the driveshaft intermediate bearing that hold the bearing in the housing. Do not undo them fully, just enough to rotate them 180 degrees then nip them tight to prevent them turning. This allows the IB (and therefore DS) to be removed from the housing.

This is what you are aiming for - obviously this is with the DS removed for clarity.

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Posted 20th Apr 2005 at 00:08
bud_205

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Post #6
Next task is to remove the wishbone->hub clamp bolt. Hold the head of the bolt with a suitable spanner and get a wrench\ breaker bar on the nut, you may need an extension bar as the disk is in the way.

Once the nut is off tap the bolt out with a punch.

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Posted 20th Apr 2005 at 01:28
bud_205

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Post #7
This is one of the tricky bits Smile

Seperate the wishbone balljoint from the hub:

* Remove the hub nut.
* Drive a chisel into the back of the clamp to open it up, be very careful not to damage the rubber boot on the WB ball joint!
* using a strong screwdriver or crowbar prize the wishbone down and out of the clamp. Again be very careful not to damage the rubber boot on the WB ball joint!

Note:

This is often easier said than done so here are a few tips:
* Sometimes coil spring compressors help as the wishbone isnt angled down as much.
*wiggle the hub around a lot.
* If all else fails you can remove the three bolts holding the balljoint to the wishbone.
Posted 20th Apr 2005 at 09:36
bud_205

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Post #8
Next job is to remove the end of the driveshaft from the hub.

All at the same time:
*push the wishbone down out of the way
*hold the drivshaft still
* pull the hub towards you and off the end of the driveshaft

once you have got the end out of the hub position the DS so it can be withdrawn and put the hub temporarily back on the wishbone or rest it like that.
Posted 20th Apr 2005 at 00:27
bud_205

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Post #9
Remove the driveshaft from the car:

In practice the driveshaft will be stuck by the IB into the housing. To free it take a chisel and a (possibly big) hammer (remember eye protection) and whack it on the collar shown in the arrow repeatedly until you get it free.

Bear in mind:
* Make sure the retaining bolts are totally out of the way - if in doubt just take the nuts right off.
*You can hit the drive shaft as hard as you want on the collar, it wont even damage it BUT if you start wacking the chisel into the alloy housing you could easily damage this expensive (80) part.

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Posted 20th Apr 2005 at 00:33
bud_205

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Post #10
OPTIONAL STEP TO CHANGE LOWER ENGINE MOUNT BUSH

Support the engine with a trolly jack using a peice of wood to protect it.

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Posted 20th Apr 2005 at 00:37
bud_205

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Registered: 02 Mar 2005

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Post #11
OPTIONAL STEP TO CHANGE LOWER ENGINE MOUNT BUSH

Remove the bolt that passes through the mount and then the 4 bolts that hold the mounting housing to the car.

Finally there are 2 pins on either side holding it on so carefully lever it off these.

Take the mount housing with a new bush to a friendly local garage and get them to press the old one out and the new one in - cost me a tenner - well worth it imo. Make sure you remove the IB securing bolts before you give the garage the mount as they are bound to lose\bend them!!

Once this is done clean the mount up where the IB sits (I use petrol with a paintbrush) and put it back on the car, replace any nuts and bolts you arent happy with the condition of.

Engine mount bush: 180921

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Posted 20th Apr 2005 at 09:18
bud_205

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Post #12
OPTIONAL STEP TO CHANGE SPEEDO DRIVE CASING

* Unclip the white plug going to the top of the sensor.
* Undo the 3 bolts holding it to the gearbox and carefully remove recovering the plastic cog.
* remove the sensor by undoing the allen key bolt and pulling it out, also recover the 'coggy bit' on a shaft.

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Posted 20th Apr 2005 at 00:48
bud_205

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Registered: 02 Mar 2005

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Post #13
OPTIONAL STEP TO CHANGE SPEEDO DRIVE CASING

* Reassable the sensor complete with 'coggy bit' into the new housing.
* slot large driven plastic cog into the twoslots on the gearbox.
* Using a new rubber seal attach the new housing assembly with the 3 bolts.
*Plug the connector back in.

(306 haynes manual covers this job for some extra pics)

PARTS:
Housing - 222816
Seal - 221223

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Posted 20th Apr 2005 at 00:57
bud_205

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Location: Bromsgrove

Registered: 02 Mar 2005

Posts: 144

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Post #14
Right - back to the core job!

If you havent changed the speedo casing then it is recommended you change the Driveshaft oil seal.

You can see the seal in the pic above, its the black ring that the DS goes thru the middle of.

Prise the old one out carefully with a flat screw driver and drift the new one in with a large socket till its about 1mm from being flush - you dont need to hit it hard.

I think the part you need is 312146.
Posted 20th Apr 2005 at 01:04
bud_205

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Registered: 02 Mar 2005

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Post #15
Now to put the new driveshaft back in...

* Grease the splines both ends and the IB.
* Slide the gearbox end thru the IB housing and into the GB being careful not to damage the seal.
* locate the IB in the housing
* Tighten the screws to hold the IB in place.
* manipulate the hub\wishbone drivshaft and get the hub end of the driveshaft into the hub.
* get the wishbone back into the hub clamp.
* put the hub nut back on and tighten it with a ratchet until it becomes hard cos the disc is turning - no need to go mad.
* Put the old clamp bolt back in and tighten it ensuring the wishbone is sitting correctly in the clamp (look at the other side if you cant remember) - this pulls the clamp back together which strains the bolt quite a bit.
* Take out the old clamp bolt and put a new one in and tighten.

Drive shaft 32731h
Clamp nut and bolt 692396, 362230
Posted 20th Apr 2005 at 09:28
bud_205

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Location: Bromsgrove

Registered: 02 Mar 2005

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Post #16
Nearly there now:

* replace the drain plug (get a new one if you want 222132)

* refil the box with gearbox oil from peugeot (973641) it takes ages to get it all in so take your time.

* put the steel wheel back on, lower car, tighten hub nut and replace cap and R clip.

* raise car, remove steel wheel, put on alloy, lower car.

PHEW!

*Give everything a once over, have a hard think to make sure you havent forgotten anything.

* Go for a very slow drive round the block.

* Make sure the GB oil aint leaking from the seal and that the hub clamp bolt is tight (no need to jack the car to do these)

If anyone spots anything I have missed let me know and I will edit!
Big grin Big grin

Could this be moved to the FAQ section so it doesnt get buried? Cheers
Posted 20th Apr 2005 at 10:29

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Adrian Flux
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