displaying posts 1 to 10 of 10

Author Subject: 'P' bush replacement FAQ
nwphoto

Club Snapper

Location: Midlands

Registered: 22 Mar 2004

Posts: 5,183

Status: Offline

Post #1
For anyone wondering what's involved in changing their front suspension bushes, I've done my lower arm 'P' bushes & here's how it was done. (Maybe not the way it should be done, but I'm sure someone'll point out any errors Wink )

Get the front of the car off the ground, wheels removed & supported on axle stands.

Undo the pinch bolt nut & knock out the bolt that holds the balljoint to the hub carrier. You'll need to give it a good whack with a hammer & punch to knock it through.

nwphoto has attached the following image:

Posted 24th Jan 2005 at 00:26
nwphoto

Club Snapper

Location: Midlands

Registered: 22 Mar 2004

Posts: 5,183

Status: Offline

Post #2
Ideally, you'll have a balljoint seperator to remove the balljoint from the hub carrier, the type that looks like a two-pronged chisel, which wedges between the balljoint & hub carrier. You then give it a smack with a large hammer, to separate the two. If, on the other hand like me, you didn't think you'd need one, you'll need to improvise with chisels & crow bar type things, lying around the garage. Don't loose the little heat sheild that hangs off the balljoint.

Hint: Once the hub assembly is free to move, don't be tempted to pull it towards you. The driveshaft will come out of the diff & gearbox oil will gush out onto the floor. I can verify this Yes

nwphoto has attached the following image:

Posted 24th Jan 2005 at 00:16
nwphoto

Club Snapper

Location: Midlands

Registered: 22 Mar 2004

Posts: 5,183

Status: Offline

Post #3
Next, undo & remove the front lower arm mounting bolt....

nwphoto has attached the following image:

Posted 24th Jan 2005 at 00:17
nwphoto

Club Snapper

Location: Midlands

Registered: 22 Mar 2004

Posts: 5,183

Status: Offline

Post #4
followed by the two rear mounting bolts. The nearest one screws straight into the 'P' bush, while the furthest one goes through the bush bracket & has a nut on the other end. This bolt also goes through the anti-roll bar clamp which sits on top.

The arm will now pull out towards the hub.

nwphoto has attached the following image:

Posted 24th Jan 2005 at 00:18
nwphoto

Club Snapper

Location: Midlands

Registered: 22 Mar 2004

Posts: 5,183

Status: Offline

Post #5
The 'P' bush has a metal inner, bonded to the rubber & is an interferance fit on the arm. As I don't have a press in my garage, I resorted to cutting the outer steel part away, then the rubber, then carefully cutting along the length of the inner part & chiselling it off.

nwphoto has attached the following image:

Posted 24th Jan 2005 at 00:20
nwphoto

Club Snapper

Location: Midlands

Registered: 22 Mar 2004

Posts: 5,183

Status: Offline

Post #6
Once off, the new bush can be hammered on with a copper mallet, or a hammer & piece of wood, remembering to fit the bush the right way round. Whistle Normally I'd get it arse about face & have to go & buy a new one, but this time I got it right first time. Smile

nwphoto has attached the following image:

Posted 24th Jan 2005 at 00:21
nwphoto

Club Snapper

Location: Midlands

Registered: 22 Mar 2004

Posts: 5,183

Status: Offline

Post #7
Reassembly is the reverse of the above, bearing in mind the following: -

Don't forget the balljoint heat sheild.

When fitting the rear arm bolts, it's easiest to fit the small one first, otherwise it can be a b*tch to line up.

Tighten all the bolts to the recommended torque.

When tightening the front mounting bolt, you need the suspension in the loaded position. You can do this by refitting the wheels & lowering the car to the ground, but if you have lowered suspension, or you're really old, you'll have difficulty reaching the bolt & getting enough leverage to tighten it. I decided (being quite old) the best way was to jack up the hub until it was just taking the weight off the axle stand, using a peice of wood under the disc to prevent damage.

update: as the long P bush bolt also clamps the anti-roll bar, tighten that with the suspension loaded also.

nwphoto has attached the following image:

Posted 28th Feb 2005 at 13:30
nwphoto

Club Snapper

Location: Midlands

Registered: 22 Mar 2004

Posts: 5,183

Status: Offline

Post #8
Drive the first few miles with the stereo off & listen to all the creaking noises. Try to differentiate between normal creaking & loose-bolt creaking. Wink
Posted 24th Jan 2005 at 00:22
dommorton Forum Admin

Location: Nowhere near banner

Registered: 11 Dec 2002

Posts: 25,601

Status: Offline

Post #9
Excellent Nige Thumbs up

I will add if your car is lowered, fit bush slightly turned. This makes it so as less stress is placed upon the rubber when the car is on the floor Wink

________________________________________

My other Peugeot is a 911
Posted 24th Jan 2005 at 09:19
jon kirby

Seasoned Pro

Location: pothole central

Registered: 14 Jan 2004

Posts: 7,008

Status: Offline

Post #10
quote:
I will add if your car is lowered, fit bush slightly turned. This makes it so as less stress is placed upon the rubber when the car is on the floor Wink


Yes seconded, just turn enough so that when car is on the floor p-bushes are in line (horizontal) with the arms Wink
Posted 24th Jan 2005 at 09:37

This thread has been locked

1999 Peugeot 306 GTi Super High Boost

  • 2000cc
  • Blue
  • 130,000 miles

£6,000

Location: South Wales

All times are GMT. The time is now 20:05

The Peugeot GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club Ltd - Registered in England & Wales - Reg No: 07410694 - ©2022 all rights reserved.

Please Note : The views and opinions found herein are those of individuals, and not of The Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club Ltd or any individuals involved.
No responsibility is taken or assumed for any comments or statements made on, or in relation to, this website. Please see our updated privacy policy and legal information