displaying posts 1 to 4 of 4

Author Subject: Cam & lifter refitting
S8-Tom

Regular

Location: Chichester

Registered: 02 Feb 2018

Posts: 328

Status: Offline

Post #1
I'm at the stage of refitting the hydraulic lifters and cams in to my engine rebuild. The plan is to follow the service guidance unless anyone's got any other suggestions?

Cams will be placed in position as shown. Once they're both in and ladders installed + cam seals fitted they'll be rotated clockwise and pinned (exhaust first).




As for the lifters, they've been stripped and cleaned and the valve filled with oil (submerged and ball pressed in).



Looks like I'll need to pull the valve out and get the oil out before refitting?




Any tips/advice gratefully received Thumbs up

________________________________________

1343Z4 coolant hose o-rings for sale
198131 injector o-rings for sale
Posted 12th Mar 2021 at 07:53
prism7guy

Seasoned Pro

Location: DoncastAAAAARGH

Registered: 13 Jan 2008

Posts: 4,637

Status: Offline

Post #2
When i stripped my lifters i also filled them with oil and noticed they were solid before thinking about refitting them. I decided it would be a bad idea to fit them like that so i pushed in the ball and squeezed most of the oil out so that i could then squeeze them by hand. I then fitted them like that and the engine worked fine after it had ran for a minute or so and the oil pressure had got them to their happy setting.

As for when i do my cams i put the pulleys on but only have the bolt finger tight so they can rotate slightly. I then sit the cams slightly anti-clockwise of where the locking pin would hold them, then i place the cam ladder over them and tighten that down. I've always used graphogen as my assembly lube as i read about others using it on here many years ago. I'm not sure if i'm being a bit ocd but i tend to clamp the ladders down very similar to how you torque the head down, i.e. spiral out from the middle but doing it in loads of stages rather than nipping up fully from the get-go.
Once the ladder is down in place i remove the pulleys, tap in the seals then put the puleys back on, rotate them to where i can lock the cam (exhaust first from memory), lock them then slacken off the cam bolt before fitting the belt.

Don't take my method as gospel but it's how i've always done it and it's worked for me.

________________________________________

Goldie the track car.
Posted 12th Mar 2021 at 15:30
S8-Tom

Regular

Location: Chichester

Registered: 02 Feb 2018

Posts: 328

Status: Offline

Post #3
prism7guy wrote:
Don't take my method as gospel but it's how i've always done it and it's worked for me.


Cheers Thumbs up I got it all done in the end. I did empty the lifters and they weren't too bad to get apart again.

I rotated my cams with mole grips and pinned them, need a couple of pairs as you don't get enough rotation.



Your tool works perfectly too.



Job done!



I was a bit concerned when turning it over as I thought it felt tight/restricted but it's just that the engine's sealing better now.

________________________________________

1343Z4 coolant hose o-rings for sale
198131 injector o-rings for sale
Posted 15th Mar 2021 at 09:33
Joep

Regular

Location: Urmond (The Netherlands)

Registered: 19 Sep 2013

Posts: 463

Status: Offline

Post #4
That last photo is as a piece of fine art!

________________________________________

My car park:
'96 Sigma Blue XSi6
'98 Diablo Red GTi6
'99 Onyx Black S16

All RFS powered!

Plus various other Peugeots
Posted 15th Mar 2021 at 13:14

All times are GMT. The time is now 19:34

The Peugeot GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club - ©2024 all rights reserved.

Please Note: The views and opinions found herein are those of individuals, and not of The Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club or any individuals involved.
No responsibility is taken or assumed for any comments or statements made on, or in relation to, this website. Please see our updated privacy policy.