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Author Subject: Tom's Red Rallye
S8-Tom

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Post #201
alcon wrote:
Hi Tom

What's your method for drilling out sheared bolts (eg. your bumpstop cup holder)? I recently removed mine and the exact same thing happened - one came out no problem and the second snapped. I've never had much success with drilling out bolts but I'll need to with this one!


Hi Alistair

Getting the drill bit central is a good start so I used a centre punch. If you can file flat the broken-off bit of the bolt that helps with centring the punch.
Then it's just a case of slow and steady and regularly checking you're on target. Start with a small bit and work your way up. A lot of the time the heat caused by the drilling process will free the broken bolt and it'll end up coming out on the end of a larger bit. If that doesn't happen, and you're running out of material to remove, then you could try an easyout (never had much success with them) or just go in with the tap.

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Posted 22nd Dec 2021 at 15:30
alcon

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Post #202
Cheers, that's pretty much what I thought but always seems to sound easier that it is in practice.

Your cups look to still be in good condition and should clean up nicely. Mine were a bit more crusty but still came up well enough after blasting etc but I picked up some shiny new stainless steel ones from Baker BM when I was at Pugfest this year. So if you decide to replace yours, try Baker BM for faithful reproductions.

BTW, respect to you for all the hard work so far.

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1999 Rallye (black)
Posted 22nd Dec 2021 at 18:54
S8-Tom

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Post #203
Lots of activity in the Projects section so I thought I'd update mine.

It came down to screwdrivers and pics to remove the final bits of underseal from the spaces the grinder and drill couldn't reach.



It wasn't worth leaving anything untouched as even areas that looked ok were hiding crusty spot welds.



Finally got the Bilt Hamber zinc primer on after a final once over with the wire brushes and some Deox gel in a few areas.









Unfortunately there's a hole in each wheel arch, where it meets the boot floor. Passenger side is the worst.



Plan is to leave the wheel arches in zinc primer, complete the underside, get the car mobile and have the holes repaired.

I'd had some success in using my tiny compressor and mini gun, in spraying the primer on, but it was too much hassle in constantly adjusting the gun settings to get the paint to spray in the right consistency etc. I resorted to rolling the paint on undiluted and that worked pretty well; no overspray, paint applied at a decent thickness, no cleaning the gun after. The textured finish will also help the next layers adhere.



Only downside is getting in to the gaps etc but a selection of foam brushes sorted that.

Seam sealer next then epoxy mastic. Just ordered some Cherry Red tinted Raptor bed-liner that'll be applied over the epoxy mastic after keying it up.

Hopefully mobile by 1st March to get those holes repaired.

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Posted 1st Feb 2022 at 09:32
russbez

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Post #204
Never had any success with easyouts either

Will have to this same clean up at back of my car some day
Some amount of work there mate. Cant you get mobile welder to sort that holes out

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Posted 1st Feb 2022 at 12:04
alcon

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Post #205
So is your underside coatings:
bare metal - Bilt Hamber zinc primer - seam sealer - epoxy mastic - raptor?

Are you putting anything on top of the raptor or just leaving as is? Also, any doubling of coats at ay stage?

How do you rate the BH zinc primer?....I hadn't thought of that so was thinking I'd do mine as 2 coats of epoxy mastic followed by seam sealer and a third coat of epoxy, then Raptor (untinted for me as I only need black). It's been suggested to me that I overcoat the raptor with black top coat and 2 layers of lacquer to make the raptor easy to clean but that's effectively 7 layers which seems like overkill. What do you think?

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Posted 1st Feb 2022 at 18:59
S8-Tom

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Post #206
russbez wrote:
Never had any success with easyouts either

Will have to this same clean up at back of my car some day
Some amount of work there mate. Cant you get mobile welder to sort that holes out


Access is a bit tight on passenger side. Probably best if it can go somewhere that's got all the welding and fabrication on tap. Already spoken to Retro, Race & Rally as they're local. They've done some good stuff there.


alcon wrote:
So is your underside coatings:
bare metal - Bilt Hamber zinc primer - seam sealer - epoxy mastic - raptor?

Are you putting anything on top of the raptor or just leaving as is? Also, any doubling of coats at ay stage?

How do you rate the BH zinc primer?....I hadn't thought of that so was thinking I'd do mine as 2 coats of epoxy mastic followed by seam sealer and a third coat of epoxy, then Raptor (untinted for me as I only need black). It's been suggested to me that I overcoat the raptor with black top coat and 2 layers of lacquer to make the raptor easy to clean but that's effectively 7 layers which seems like overkill. What do you think?


That's the order I'm going for Thumbs up If you don't fancy the zinc then epoxy on bare metal - seam seal - epoxy - Raptor would probably work Dunno

Underside has had 2 coats of the zinc primer + I used up the last of the tin just going over some of the more rust prone areas. Epoxy will just be one rolled on coat over the zinc & seam sealer. Once the Raptor's on, and everything's back together, I've got some Bilthamber Dynax UC, which is the clear underbody wax, to go over everything. Might wait a few weeks until the solvents have definitely fully evaporated before doing this though

I think overcoating the Raptor with top coat & 2x lacquer is overkill. Raptor is ridiculously tough stuff. I had to remove some where a mate had treated an area he'd welded for me (see the post about the repair near the fuel filter) and it hung on for dear life! If it was me, with your car, I'd just go straight in with regular Raptor as it's black anyway.

I almost went for regular black on my underside and was going to buy tinted later for the wheel arches when they're welded but there's a 20% code on eBay at the moment so I bought a 4 bottle tinted kit, with the Upol/Raptor Schtz gun, for less than £100 - Marlowpaints16 on ebay

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Posted 2nd Feb 2022 at 13:27
alcon

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Post #207
That sounds good Tom. The more I think about it, adding top coats over the Raptor would be a waste of time due to the likelihood of stone chips....you'd be back through to the Raptor anyway.

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Posted 6th Feb 2022 at 20:28
S8-Tom

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Post #208
Bit more progress on the underside.

was pretty happy with the zinc primer. It was fairly neat and uniform. The seam sealer undid all of that and looks a complete mess! I'd tried masking edges to get a neat application but that left edges standing proud. Tried a knife/spatula to apply but ended up resorting to the 3M seam sealer brush I'd used before.





Ah well, it's sealed and it's under the car. The epoxy mastic over the top has improved things marginally...



... and the Raptor paint should improve things further.



Put a little order in with the Peugeot Museum that includes new OE brake cables so not been too fussed about getting paint on the old one's.

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Posted 14th Feb 2022 at 14:16
prism7guy

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Post #209
Nice work Tom!

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Posted 14th Feb 2022 at 18:02
alcon

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Post #210
I can't wait to see the raptor on. Like you, I'm hoping it will cover the seam sealer which always looks a messy job. I don't think you've done anything wrong there bud....all seam sealer looks a mess including the original stuff that came out the factory.

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1999 Rallye (black)
Posted 14th Feb 2022 at 19:23
prism7guy

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Post #211
Every time i've used seam sealer it's looked a mess too.

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Posted 14th Feb 2022 at 22:11
phillipm

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Post #212
I just use polyurethane mastic, easier to put on neatly than the thick brushed stuff.

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Posted 14th Feb 2022 at 22:27
S8-Tom

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Post #213
The epoxy mastic dried fairly quickly despite the less-than-ideal application temps. As it happens, I couldn't get back to do anything for a few days so it was nice and hard by the time I returned to key it up. Keyed area on the left, glossy right side still to do in this pic.



A good few hours of getting in to all the edges with the scotchbrite and I was ready to put the Raptor on. Upol recommend 40psi for the smoothest finish but I wanted it fairly textured so went for 25psi. Couple of coats with 90mins in between (upol suggest 60mins but it was early double figures when I sprayed)



Another week on and got the beam back on.



Bent up a fresh length of cunifer for the left to right brake pipe. All of the pipes are getting replaced including the long bulkhead to back of car one's.



The beam mounts at the rear aren't that old but weren't looking great.



The mounts at the front are similar age/mile genuine Peugeot and are fine. Replaced the knackered Febi one's with Hutchinson.


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Posted 7th Mar 2022 at 15:04
hovis16

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Post #214
looking good. have some solid version of those if you every fancy a change :cool

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Posted 7th Mar 2022 at 15:12
S8-Tom

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Post #215
It's been a while. Time for an update.

Bent the rest of the brake lines to shape and got them, along with the beam, fitted to the car...



Along with new brake cables from the Peugeot Museum



The holes in each rear wheel arch...



... were repaired and painted with zinc primer, epoxy mastic and finished in body colour Raptor paint.





I'd removed the rear carpet & trim for the welding (had some exhaust heat shield studs replaced too) so decided to remove the sound deadening from behind the front seats



Saved 2.5Kg and I can't hear any increase in road noise or panel drumming Dunno

Engine had been leaking oil from somewhere so I put some UV dye in but didn't have to shine the UV torch in the bay to see where it was coming from.



I was using the Thermotec gaskets after having the cam covers machined down to get rid of the protrusions that stop you from crushing the original seals and oil spray bars. The gaskets never really sealed that well and I know the rear cam cover was leaking. I'd tried some Loctite RTV in addition to the seals but clearly it wasn't working.

Removed the cam covers and scraped the RTV off



And bit the bullet and bought some NOS cam covers from the Peugeot Museum



New seals Love



Had a spare inlet vapour blasted and bolted the shiny bits back to the engine



You might notice the absence of the PCV near the cam cover in the above pic. That's been taken out and a catch can plumbed in.



Mounted it down here...



... after making up a bracket that bolts to the manifold support



I'd be really interested oin hearing views on the mounting position as I'm not 100% on whether mounting it below the level of the cam cover is a good idea.

Also, I'm guessing the PCV thing, that's usually by the cam cover, is a vacuum regulator so that not too much vacuum is pulled on the PCV system (drawing oil out?). Maybe removing it is a bad idea but I'll be keeping an eye on how much residue is collected in the catch can.

Finally got out and enjoyed the car. Had a few good drives and went to a show with PSCUK





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Posted 10th May 2022 at 14:01
S8-Tom

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Post #216
Bit of a pre-Pugfest tidy-up in the form of some new stickers. Well overdue!



Not sure the masking tape was necessary...


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Posted 14th Jul 2022 at 13:46
rallyestyle

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Post #217
LOL fair bit of fade there. Nice to freshen up the decals Cool

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Posted 14th Jul 2022 at 14:44
S8-Tom

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Post #218
The Rallye has seen quite a bit of use, vistied lots of shows and seen some track action this summer!

08/05/2022 - Basingstoke Festival of Transport with PSCUK


07/08/22 - Newbury show with PSCUK


14/08/22 - Collecting Cars meet at Mercedes Benz World with James, Miles & some Renault owners


20/08/22 - Radwood at Bicester Heritage


17/09/22 - Rally Day with PSCUK at Castle Combe




17/09/22 - Caffeine & Machine


18/09/22 - RetroRides Gathering at Mallory Park


04/10/2022 - Photoshoot for a feature in Classic & Sportscar with other Peugeot Rallye owners



Now it's time for some improvemnets over winter...

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Posted 17th Oct 2022 at 10:12
S8-Tom

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Post #219
There she sits looking a bit sorry for herself (green stuff is screen wash)



Winter updates are well underway. Acquired a Ph2 VTS rack and replaced the rods, ends and boots with TRW & Lemforder bits (correct length rods for the 306 Thumbs up ).



Apparently, the rack has about 50K on it and was one of the last units available from Citroen. It also came with all of the pipe work and the pump...

... which was lucky as my pump was disintegrating and there was probably debris in the old pipes as well as in the resevoir Thumbs down.



Fished all the metal chunks out with a magnet on a stick and flushed with WD40.

I've got some parts off for refinishing at the moment so, more updates to follow!

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Posted 15th Nov 2022 at 12:01
S8-Tom

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Post #220
Parts are back from the electroplaters.



Amongst that lot are all of the steel brake caliper parts, engine brackets from a 2L 8V XU engine and associated bolts.

I'd sourced the alternative engine mounts as they're considerably lighter than the original verson!



There's also the benefit of relocating the PAS pump down by the sump so there's more room up top for things that might come later.



I've ditched the original 2L 8V belt tensioner and alternator support arm in favour of a turnbuckle. Unfortunatley the one I've got is too long for the 900mm belt I'd measured-up for. Can't use a shorter turnbuckle as the alternator hits the bracket when this one is at minimum adjustment. There's not enough length to tension a 923mm belt so I've ordered a couple of longer turnbuckle centre sections.



The brake calipers were done as I'd rebuilt a set for someone back in the summer. He'd had them painted, so looked great, and moved so freely.
Although my brakes weren't leaking the rears definately weren't particularly free on the sliders. When I got them apart, everything in the rears was corroded and the bushings that the handbrake lever arm moves on were shot.



One of the pistons wasn't great so I opted for a pair of refurbished calipers. I'd already bought a set of genuine sliders & seals that were quite expensive and I thought they'd be redundant with the refurbished calipers...



... but, I decided to fit them anyway and I was glad I did asthese are what were in the refurbished calipers!



The front calipers were a bit better. the pistons were a bit worse for wear.



So everything got replaced with genuine or TRW parts (the OE stuff is probably TRW too going by the sachets of grease).



2 of the 4 complete calipers ready to be fitted.



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Posted 21st Nov 2022 at 11:23
hovis16

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Post #221
looking good as always bub

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Posted 23rd Nov 2022 at 09:52

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