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Author Subject: T343 KGF Red Rallye
S8-Tom

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Post #126
This morning the car was collected to have the last bit of bulkhead rust removed and some new metal let in to replace it.



I'd given up on Sean. Last contact was 9th June when I followed up on my previous conversation about getting this done on 2nd April. No doubt his work is top notch but I can't wait any longer as I need the car for the August Bank Holiday weekend.
The guy's that did the work are local, they called me when they said they would, picked the car up on time and returned it within a day!



A functinal repair that'll spend the rest of its life behind the dash following some Zinc primer, seam sealer and a top coat of something. The wheel well side of things will get the same + some stone chip.

In other news, driveshafts have been de-rusted, treated and painted. N/S is actually back on the car but I thought I'd leave the O/S out as the welder may have needed the hub etc out of the way. Whilst the car was out today I replaced the intermediate bearing and the ring that you hammer to release the shaft from the carrier (the old one was a bit mashed-up).





On to re-assembly!

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Posted 16th Jul 2020 at 15:51
S8-Tom

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Post #127
Reassembly is almost complete and I might try and fire her up this afternoon Hyper

Driveshafts went back in and it's looking pretty good from underneath.




Had a bit of a nightmare getting the exhaust heatshields back on. Had to drop the subframe again to get access but that made fitting the cat a million times easier anyway so all good.




Interior is all back in and the instrument cluster lights uo with no nasties!




Finished off a job I've been doing in the background. Skirt rivet holes enlarged, corrosion treated, top coat of Cherry Red and some stainless rivnuts ala Mik.

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Posted 30th Jul 2020 at 13:02
S8-Tom

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Post #128
It's been a bit of a week working on the Rallye.

Brakes have been a nightmare to bleed, probably because of all the new pipes in the engine bay and those running to the front wheels. Took 3 attempts to get the ABS pump bled and have everything working.

Noticed a small fuel leak from the supply line at the fuel rail. Replaced the section, and all of the cubes, with a single length of hose. Whilst the line was 'open' I managed to spill a significant amount of fuel in to the engine bay. I washed it all down with plenty of water but the paint has dulled in some places.

Possibly due to the fuel spill and water, my alternator died on a test drive. The battery was obviously low as well so I was left stranded until the RAC showed up. At least it wasn't as bad as the poor sod who'd broken down just around the corner from me. He'd ruptured his sump after smashing through a pothole!

I've had a modified fuel rail sitting around for a while and the leak + less than ideal fix prompted me to order some hose and AN-6 fittings to get the rail on and plumbed in.



Mocked it up today. Rail needs painting and injectors need putting in but it's looking tidy!

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Posted 5th Aug 2020 at 15:57
Day666

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Location: Bristol

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Post #129
Looking great Tom Thumbs up
Keep the pics coming m8
Posted 5th Aug 2020 at 18:20
S8-Tom

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Post #130
I spent the bank holiday weekend with Southdowns French Car Club in North Wales. We were camped at the foot of Cadir Idris at the southern end of Snowdonia National Park.



Amongst other things we had a drive out to Snowdonia and found some epic roads on the way back.





Car managed the 800ish miles but...

A few days before leaving for Wales I went to see Kris Bradshaw to get my Cyclones balanced as I'd had a set of Michelin PS3's fitted. I left quite a puddle of oil on his workshop floor after the 50 mile trip to see him.
I concluded that the cam covers and sump weren't sealed so off they came and out came the goop to re-do them. All good I thought...

Got to the rendezvous point just over the Severn Bridge and checked the oil, 2 litres down! Oh Sh1t. Oil everywhere and it looked like it was coming from the dipstick. Topped it up, cable-tied the dip-stick down and carried on. I had a few top-ups over the weekend (small amounts) and the car got me round and home but she's breathing heavily. I'm praying it's just blocked breathers but, that's alot of oil being pumped out. Maybe a piston ring or two had got sticky in the 4-5 months of not being used? We'll see.

It was a bit of a rush to get the car ready for Wales as I had to postpone the MOT twice due to delays in getting more welding done. Since March I've had the bulkhead welded on both driver and passenger side (was more wheel well on driver side) and I had to have the driver side front jacking point sorted as well as the chassis stiffner. Bloody expensive lot of work, almost paid out for welding what I paid for the initial purchase price of the car Blink



Aside from that, I've fitted the stainless heatshield...



slapped on a forum sticker...



and given her a bloody good clean and polish




I'm going to be removing the inlet etc so that I can clean all of the oil from the front of the block and clean-out the breather pipes etc. If that doesn't sort things I'll have to look at a compression test and go from there. History I've got with the car suggests valve stem seals have been replaced relatively recently.

Edit: found the dealer invoice for 16 valve stem seals from 2012


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Posted 4th Sep 2020 at 09:28
S8-Tom

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Post #131
Results are in and it's not good news.

From timing to flywheel end I'm getting: 180, 175, 185, 160.

Those reading were taking with engine up to temperature and the throttle wide open so, not great across the board but the cylinder at the flywheel end looks to be the biggest problem.

I'll get a leakdown test done at some point but I'm 99% certain where this is heading...

Options are, starting with the cheapest:

Confused Find a low(er) mile block. There's a 80K 16v XSi near me that might do.
Confused Sleeve the existing block as this will allow me to keep the original pistons.
Confused Overbore and larger pistons.

Funds are a bit tight after all of the work done recently so performance upgrades aren't an option Laugh my ass off I'll have a bit of time to work out what to do whilst I save some pennies.

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Posted 7th Sep 2020 at 09:44
hovis16

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Location: Reading/parts for sale

Registered: 21 Nov 2008

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Post #132
S8-Tom wrote:
Results are in and it's not good news.

From timing to flywheel end I'm getting: 180, 175, 185, 160.

Those reading were taking with engine up to temperature and the throttle wide open so, not great across the board but the cylinder at the flywheel end looks to be the biggest problem.

I'll get a leakdown test done at some point but I'm 99% certain where this is heading...

Options are, starting with the cheapest:

Confused Find a low(er) mile block. There's a 80K 16v XSi near me that might do.
Confused Sleeve the existing block as this will allow me to keep the original pistons.
Confused Overbore and larger pistons.

Funds are a bit tight after all of the work done recently so performance upgrades aren't an option Laugh my ass off I'll have a bit of time to work out what to do whilst I save some pennies.



Ah man that sucks, sorry to hear bout this after all that had work you've done.

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Posted 8th Sep 2020 at 07:21
Lecktorious

aka G.

Location: Edinburgh

Registered: 08 Jan 2009

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Post #133
Could it be the case that the valve steam oil seals haven't been seated correctly when the head was rebuilt? I bought back my old GTi 6 with that problem and it was burning some amount of oil.

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Posted 8th Sep 2020 at 07:50
S8-Tom

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Post #134
hovis16 wrote:
Ah man that sucks, sorry to hear bout this after all that had work you've done.


Cheers buddy. Yeah, bit of a kick in the teeth but, nature of the beast I guess; it's the sort of car that'll have been driven hard + they were worth bugger all at one point so bought cheap and not maintained well.

Lecktorious wrote:
Could it be the case that the valve steam oil seals haven't been seated correctly when the head was rebuilt? I bought back my old GTi 6 with that problem and it was burning some amount of oil.


I don't think so but who knows? The car was running fine before I took the engine out 5 months ago and, to be honest it's running fine now as they do even with low compression. I'm guessing that 5 months of being laid up has just highlighted the issue. I did turn the engine over (fuel/spark relay removed) to get oil circulating before I fired her up but maybe not enough - rings maybe a bit dry and that polished off an oil ring? I'll find out when it come apart.

Going to see the XSi tomorrow; it'll yield plenty of spares and raise a bit of cash as a breaker (Hovis16, it's black Thumbs up ). The block will go to a machine shop to assess bore wear. If I can get away with a hone great, if not at least I'll have a block that can be worked over before I start tearing down the Rallye engine.

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Posted 8th Sep 2020 at 08:14
hovis16

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Post #135
S8-Tom wrote:
hovis16 wrote:
Ah man that sucks, sorry to hear bout this after all that had work you've done.


Cheers buddy. Yeah, bit of a kick in the teeth but, nature of the beast I guess; it's the sort of car that'll have been driven hard + they were worth bugger all at one point so bought cheap and not maintained well.

Lecktorious wrote:
Could it be the case that the valve steam oil seals haven't been seated correctly when the head was rebuilt? I bought back my old GTi 6 with that problem and it was burning some amount of oil.


I don't think so but who knows? The car was running fine before I took the engine out 5 months ago and, to be honest it's running fine now as they do even with low compression. I'm guessing that 5 months of being laid up has just highlighted the issue. I did turn the engine over (fuel/spark relay removed) to get oil circulating before I fired her up but maybe not enough - rings maybe a bit dry and that polished off an oil ring? I'll find out when it come apart.

Going to see the XSi tomorrow; it'll yield plenty of spares and raise a bit of cash as a breaker (Hovis16, it's black Thumbs up ). The block will go to a machine shop to assess bore wear. If I can get away with a hone great, if not at least I'll have a block that can be worked over before I start tearing down the Rallye engine.


Ooooooo

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Posted 8th Sep 2020 at 08:31
Day666

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Post #136
Totally gutted for you Thumbs down
Posted 8th Sep 2020 at 20:13
S8-Tom

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Post #137
Day666 wrote:
Totally gutted for you Thumbs down


Thanks, yeah bit of a downer after everything I've done Thumbs down Just gotta keep going with it though. Never done a bottom end so looking forward to the challenge!


Went to see this XSi this morning. It hasn't been MOT'd since 2015 and has been used as a field car by the owners grandkids! As you can imagine, it's full of grass inside and out but there's lots of bits I can use on it. Hasn't run for about a year and the immobiliser seems to have kicked in.





It's pretty good underneath too. Sills and jacking points are sound and the chassis stiffeners aren't stoved in Smile

Still got its original headunit and CD changer.

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Posted 9th Sep 2020 at 12:13
hovis16

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Post #138
Incoming vulture.........

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Posted 9th Sep 2020 at 14:20
99rallye

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Registered: 26 Aug 2009

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Post #139
Sorry to hear your woes Tom! I had exactly the same last year but after having a rebuild it feels so much better and I'm confident that it was will keep running for years now if I keep on top of the maintenance. Keep on going! Your XSI looks in very good condition too
Posted 10th Sep 2020 at 07:04
nadine

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Post #140
oh im chatting to you about a few bits off that Smile didn't realise it was black! my 6 is black
Posted 10th Sep 2020 at 14:13
S8-Tom

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Post #141
Thanks for the support everyone. No doubt she'll be back better than ever after a bit of open heart surgery!


nadine wrote:
oh im chatting to you about a few bits off that Smile didn't realise it was black! my 6 is black


Hi nadine. I put a fully charged battery on it today and everything seems to be working so I'll get back to you about those bits shortly.

The XSi then. The seller dropped it over yesterday evening and I pushed it up the side of the house and left it there until this morning. The car really is in a disgusting state so first things to do was give it a good scrub. I started by removing alot of the vegetation by hand. I also removed the scuttle plastics and wiper motor to excavate all the crap that builds up in here.

Along with a full hoover from the interior I had this bucket with everything I removed by hand Thumbs down



And a cleaner exterior.



I felt like an undertaker preparing a corpse for its box LOL

After that I put a charged battery in it. I wanted to check what worked so that I can sell bits with some confidence. With checks done I got on with cleaning-up the engine bay. Started with a dousing of degreaser and a stiff brush followed by a snow foam and mist from the pressure washer to clean it all away.



That'll make things a bit nicer for when I start pulling stuff off of it Thumbs up

On to the inside, and I thought the outside was bad!





Something rusty has obviously been stored in the back and there was so much rat sh1t everywhere. I went to Toolstation and bought a wet & dry vacuum they had on offer, just sucked it all up and into a bag.

Interior finds were a bit disappointing.

3p under the drivers seat



A set of locking wheel nuts with 2 keys was a bit better. Original dealer keyring was nice.



And an original spare steel for use with flat-seat bolts with a good condition Michelin tyre (probably original)




And there she sits awaiting her fate.


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Posted 10th Sep 2020 at 15:54
hovis16

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Post #142
Cawwww cawww lol

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Posted 11th Sep 2020 at 09:00
AstorBeDone

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Post #143
Excellent job
Posted 11th Sep 2020 at 15:56
S8-Tom

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Post #144
Tear-down of the breaker is almost complete and the engine is out and stripped down. Cylinder bore cross-hatching looks good and there's no ridge evident at the top. Hoping some measurements will confirm that this block's good to go.






I was a bit concerned by the amount of straw in the air intake but it hadn't even got as far as the air box.



Had a bit of a result with the cat. Looks to be the original one and worth £105 to the local cat man. He took the exhaust mid-section and seat frames too, saves me a trip to the tip!




Had these in my eBay watchlist and was sent an offer by the seller so picked them up now for when the rebuild commences, don't want to be fannying about with goop anymore. I'll get the cam cover ridges removed when the block goes for work.



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Posted 17th Sep 2020 at 11:49
hovis16

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Post #145
S8-Tom wrote:
Tear-down of the breaker is almost complete and the engine is out and stripped down. Cylinder bore cross-hatching looks good and there's no ridge evident at the top. Hoping some measurements will confirm that this block's good to go.






I was a bit concerned by the amount of straw in the air intake but it hadn't even got as far as the air box.



Had a bit of a result with the cat. Looks to be the original one and worth £105 to the local cat man. He took the exhaust mid-section and seat frames too, saves me a trip to the tip!




Had these in my eBay watchlist and was sent an offer by the seller so picked them up now for when the rebuild commences, don't want to be fannying about with goop anymore. I'll get the cam cover ridges removed when the block goes for work.





Alway wonder if there really work? Had an old ptfe jobbie on my 6 years back and I fouled the ports so binned it

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Posted 17th Sep 2020 at 21:22
eiei0

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Post #146
Hi Can you explain more about what the white gaskets is and cam cover ridges mean,

I read somewhere that you can't get replacement seals for the cam covers I wanted to get mine stripped and painted but don't fancy trying to seal them again with instant gasket,

Thanks
Posted 17th Sep 2020 at 23:50
S8-Tom

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Post #147
The aluminium cam covers originally came with an integral gasket that did a fine job of sealing things up. Once you've had your covers off a couple of times the gaskets give up so you're left looking for a way to reseal them.
RTV does do a good job, and it's worked for me so far, but it's messy and you risk sealant on the inside becoming detached and playing havoc with your valve train.

The idea of the white gaskets is to replace the original integral gaskets and negate the need for RTV.

hovis16 wrote:
Alway wonder if there really work? Had an old ptfe jobbie on my 6 years back and I fouled the ports so binned it


I saw a few posts on the inlet gasket fouling. Looks like some 'relieved' the gasket where it goes around the port. Hopefully the cam-cover one's are better. I'm going to get the aluminium machined flat so I can make use of the bolt hole bits on the gaskets. Bit of Stag Wellseal should help things too Thumbs up

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Posted 18th Sep 2020 at 08:30
eiei0

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Post #148
Thanks for the reply strange design that the gasket was integral, did the think no one would ever be opening the engine Big grin
Posted 20th Sep 2020 at 17:32
S8-Tom

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Post #149
eiei0 wrote:
Thanks for the reply strange design that the gasket was integral, did the think no one would ever be opening the engine Big grin


They must've been good for a few openings but time + heat won't do them any good! I doubt Peugeot, or any other manufacturer for that matter, envisaged any part lasting 20+ years.


The block has been measured and it looks good. Should've spent the time to record the results but I think the biggest variance we saw over the 4 bores was .03mm which is just over 1 thou in old money.





It was suggested to me that my low compression figures could be sticking/stuck piston rings so I was given a can of 'kill or cure' to see if the compression figures could be improved. Supposedly this is only available via a garage and shouldn't be used DIY however, it can be found on ebay and Amazon.



I was warned to only run the engine for 20mins as the additive thins the oil and significantly reduces lubrication.
Well, it definitely does something as the hydraulic lifters became very noisy and the dirty oil and debris that came out surprised me.

This is the oil before additive.



And here's a sample of what came out



Sadly, compression results were pretty much bang on what they were before.

I think the reason this engine is down on compression might be due to the 'chip' that was replaced on the ECU. I suspect it was just causing the management to overfuel resulting in bore wash. When I first got the car it had felt a bit mediocre but getting the timing correct had improved things a bit. The compression must've been down from before I got it but I doubt the seller had any idea.

When I put the engine back in recently, after a 5 month lay-up I did turn the engine over, with the spark/fuel relay removed, to get some oil circulating but perhaps things were a bit 'dry' still and that's polished things off?

Anyway, parts have been gathered and the rebuild will commence shortly.



I won't know what headgasket I'll need until the head's off and I've measured it. It has been off previously as the valve stem oil seals were replaced back in 2012. Hopefully there's still some material to play with.


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Posted 12th Oct 2020 at 16:18
S8-Tom

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Post #150
Just been and collected the replacement block from Sussex Engine Supplies. It's been honed and the block's been decked.





Went with these guys as they knew/had experience of the engine, were local + they're really friendly and helpful. Recommended Thumbs up

I'd also spoken to another firm in Portsmouth and also to Brett Simms in the New Forest. I'd asked Brett about transferring the piston spray bars from the RFS block to this one but he wasn't keen which is fair enough. He did tell me that he thought the XU10J4R deck height was about 1mm taller than the RFS, this is something that might work in my favour depending on what the head measures-up at...

I thought I'd put something here in relation to costs and part numbers as it might be useful for anyone else doing this. Here's where I'm at so far on parts:



Hone and deck cost me £133

I had looked at an overbore and larger (not forged) pistons. Peugeot prices are about £1K for the 4 oversize pistons but I found that Mahle do a couple of over sizes as follows:



Mahle alternatives @ £90+VAT each are considerably more cost effective than the OE items + I think the 1st oversize is NLA from Pug. Machine work would've been £150+VAT

With the recent cost of all of the welding and engine bay tidying I'm not in a position to go with the larger pistons. There'd probably be further cost & risk involved with transferring the stupid press fit gudgeon pins too Thumbs down

Also, I chucked this on from the breaker. The tabs on my original one had long since disappeared and it drove me mad that it wouldn't stay put. The leather's also much better on this one.



Still grass and crap in the passenger footwell from the Wales camping trip LOL

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Posted 20th Oct 2020 at 11:55

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