displaying posts 176 to 189 of 189

Pages (8): first .. 6 7 [8]

Author Subject: Tom's Red Rallye
jeffers Forum Owner

Location: Leeds

Registered: 14 Dec 2003

Posts: 3,696

Status: Offline

Post #176
S8-Tom wrote:
eiei0 wrote:
Looking good Tom


Thanks. Looks like you're not far off getting yours started and on the road?

jeffers wrote:
How’re you planning on running this in Tom?


Good question. Rough plan is:

Millers running in oil and just straight deionised water. Run for 20mins varying revs up to 2000rpm mainly to check for leaks etc.
Drain oil & water. New filter. More running in oil + coolant mix this time.
For 200 miles'ish drive the car keeping revs below 4K and allowing it to run down from 4K. Also take in some hills to load it up.
After that, regular 10W40 semi-synthetic and a new filter and drive as normal Dunno

If anyone's got any advice or recommendations I'd be glad to hear them Thumbs up

Bearing in mind the only thing you’re bedding in is your piston rings, I’d only use running in oil for a short amount of time, in fact when I bedded in mine I took it to my local tuners and they ran it in on a hub dyno on a preset program for an hour then we let it go. Piston rings need pressure behind them to bed them into the bores and prevent bore glazing which can happen quite quickly. Also use something like a mineral oil, apparently the additives ina semi oil arrest the break in process. Either way personally I’d do a relatively short running in period in the interests of longevity. Everyone’s got an opinion tho...

________________________________________

Team Running Engine again!
Team Negative Camber!
My Budget track engine build thread!
Now appearing at a Trackday near you!!Hyper Hyper
Posted 17th Mar 2021 at 16:32
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

Registered: 27 Mar 2007

Posts: 25,730

Status: Offline

Post #177
10w40, full send, change it after mapping.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

Posted 17th Mar 2021 at 18:24
Day666

Seasoned Pro

Location: Bristol

Registered: 20 Apr 2013

Posts: 4,905

Status: Offline

Post #178
welshpug! wrote:
10w40, full send, change it after mapping.


That’s how I was told

Unless you have access to a test bed Thumbs up




PS ...Tom looking great mucker
Posted 17th Mar 2021 at 21:50
S8-Tom

Regular

Location: Chichester

Registered: 02 Feb 2018

Posts: 224

Status: Online

Post #179
Cry I thought I had it all worked out Cry

Getting some pressure behind the rings is the vital bit from what I can tell. WOT from low speed in a high gear should be the way to go.

Still open to advice/opinions though Thumbs up

________________________________________

1343Z4 coolant hose o-rings for sale
Posted 18th Mar 2021 at 07:35
S8-Tom

Regular

Location: Chichester

Registered: 02 Feb 2018

Posts: 224

Status: Online

Post #180
Things progressed reasonably quickly last week while I was off work. Got the engine down to where the car's stored



Got the gearbox on with a new LuK clutch and speed sensor.



I'd left the cam covers off to make it easier to reach around ( Blush ) and fit the exhaust manifold and heat shield.
Fitted the cam covers with the Thermo-Tec seals and a bit of Wellseal, hopefully this sealing solution works.



Bought and fitted some Baker BM breather hoses. Original one's were old, brittle and cracked. You can also see the oil take-off for the pressure sender that I've secured to the bottom of the battery box.



Got the engine pretty much assembled in the bay and set-to wiring in the VDO gauges so I could check oil pressure was where it needed to be before firing it up. This didn't go to plan as I really don't have a clue when it comes to electrics. I've now got the pressure gauge reading, and the 'idiot' light doing what it should however, the gauge illumination, that was working, now isn't Doh



Gauge is reading 4.5 bar (heading towards 5) on cold cranking which I've read is about where it should be. I'll be collecting some fresh fuel on the next visit and hopefully firing her up Hyper

________________________________________

1343Z4 coolant hose o-rings for sale
Posted 6th Apr 2021 at 13:15
Day666

Seasoned Pro

Location: Bristol

Registered: 20 Apr 2013

Posts: 4,905

Status: Offline

Post #181
Great update Tom Thumbs up

Hope you get it started mucker
Posted 6th Apr 2021 at 20:07
eiei0

Regular

Location: Kildare

Registered: 08 May 2020

Posts: 175

Status: Offline

Post #182
Good work Tom,

Why did you need to add sealer to the thermotec gaskets,

Thought they didn't need them?

Thanks
Trevor
Posted 6th Apr 2021 at 20:12
S8-Tom

Regular

Location: Chichester

Registered: 02 Feb 2018

Posts: 224

Status: Online

Post #183
eiei0 wrote:
Why did you need to add sealer to the thermotec gaskets,

Thought they didn't need them?


You're right, they don't need any sealer but I figured it couldn't do any harm Dunno The Stag Wellseal is really thin runny stuff that doesn't set but works well on imperfect machined surfaces so it'll fill any gaps the gaskets can't flex in to. It also helped hold the gaskets in place whilst I put the covers on.

________________________________________

1343Z4 coolant hose o-rings for sale
Posted 7th Apr 2021 at 08:41
eiei0

Regular

Location: Kildare

Registered: 08 May 2020

Posts: 175

Status: Offline

Post #184
Thanks Tom I have a set of gaskets here just waiting for my powder coated cam covers to be done,

Can't find anyone selling wellseal over here so may try find an alternative

Thanks
Trevor
Posted 8th Apr 2021 at 10:06
S8-Tom

Regular

Location: Chichester

Registered: 02 Feb 2018

Posts: 224

Status: Online

Post #185
Brought the car home yesterday evening. Did about 20 miles and it feels brilliant - quiet, smooth and the new clutch is a joy, couldn't be happier Big grin

With a job taking this amount of time, effort and money you always question what you're doing with your life but driving the car again, with the way it handles, the ride and the sound it makes, all of the reservations get quickly forgotten.

Previously I'd run the car up to temperature whilst static but varying the revs between idle and sub 3K.
Once it was up to temp I changed the running-in oil for more of the same, new filter and replaced the water with 50:50 coolant mix.

Driving the car for the 20 mile trip I was on a dual carriageway followed by some A and B roads. Being 6.30 / 7ish in the evening the roads were reasonably quiet so finding space to accelerate in 4th on WOT from 2K to 4K, then letting it run back down again, wasn't an issue - I was a bit apprehensive about doing this on public roads but it really wasn't an issue at that time of the day, just checking mirrors etc & making sure I had plenty of space ahead and behind.

Planning on doing much the same most evenings. I'll change to a 10W40 semi-synth and fresh filter somewhere before 500 miles / when the car feels like it's at full power again.

I've got a couple of minor drips of oil from the sump /sump plug area. The sump bolts were tightened to 10Nm but there's info out there that suggests 20Nm so I'll give them all a nip-up and check the drain plug. The cam covers have also got a couple of runs so I'll nip those down too and keep an eye on things.


________________________________________

1343Z4 coolant hose o-rings for sale
Posted 13th Apr 2021 at 10:52
eiei0

Regular

Location: Kildare

Registered: 08 May 2020

Posts: 175

Status: Offline

Post #186
Well done Tom always nice to get a project completed and bring it for a spin,

I'm sure you can't wait to give it the beans when it's all run in
Posted 13th Apr 2021 at 15:32
Day666

Seasoned Pro

Location: Bristol

Registered: 20 Apr 2013

Posts: 4,905

Status: Offline

Post #187
Fantastic Read Tom Thumbs up

Good luck Mucker
Posted 13th Apr 2021 at 18:53
S8-Tom

Regular

Location: Chichester

Registered: 02 Feb 2018

Posts: 224

Status: Online

Post #188
Thanks gents!

Took her out for a spin last night and got another 80miles on the engine bringing the total to 100. You can definitely tell when things are starting to come together as the engine feels 'tighter', more together with more grunt. I suspect it's about as run-in as it's going to get but I'll keep going to see if things improve further + I want to make sure those minor leaks are sorted before changing the oil again.

Looking to do some shorter journey's the rest of this week then a longer stretch Saturday evening where I'll head up the A3 (more 4th gear, WOT to 4K & cost down) head east on to the A272 for some faster twisty fun then dive south to Fuel Coffee House for a burger! That round trip should see another 100miles under my belt.

________________________________________

1343Z4 coolant hose o-rings for sale
Posted 14th Apr 2021 at 11:14
S8-Tom

Regular

Location: Chichester

Registered: 02 Feb 2018

Posts: 224

Status: Online

Post #189
Well, I got my burger and the drive out was pleasant. Apologies if I upset any Sussex residents with my driving but, needs must LOL

I've got about 60miles left to do until I reach the 500mile marker so I expect I'll be changing the oil come the weekend.
I've been building things up to 5K+ rpm and nothing's gone pop yet. Mechanically all seems well; I've got the tiniest amount of oil being dropped and this is from the rear cam-cover, planning to remove that and add more Wellseal when I do the oil change.

There's been a few electrical issues that have affected the running (or so it feels). The speedo was behaving strangely with the following symptoms:
Odd ticking on 1st and 2nd position at ignition, couldn't hear it once car was started.
Flickering rev needle accompanying the tick.
Rev & speedo needle not moving until the car was rolling.
Coolant temp not returning to zero on turning the car off, stayed at 70.
Right turn indicator lamp on display not working.
Car felt harsh/jolting on gear changes.

This has all been resolved by swapping to a spare instrument cluster from an XSi. I've lost the oil temp functionality on the display but I've got a separate gauge for oil temp now.

Mileage on knackerd dials at removal.


Mileage on replacement dials at replacement (screen shot from a video).


Temp and pressure gauges.


Had a bit of a problem with getting the gauges to work initially. Turns out they don't like an LED as the low oil pressure warning indicator. Had to find a red filament lamp to make it all work. Prior to this revelation I'd spent a week trying all sorts of wiring configurations and had the pressure gauge going backwards at one point!

I was going to wait to do this until the final oil change of the running-in process but thought, why not do it now.
I'd assumed the OE air filter, although being relatively new, would be contaminated with oil given how heavily the engine had been breathing (I wasn't wrong!) so had planned to replace it. I found an ITG Performance filter on eBay for a bit less than they're currently available for from Merlin Motorsport so snapped it up.



It was more the airbox lid/base, than the filter, that was contaminated with oil and filtered debris.
Doesn't appear to have made any noticeable change to the sound but the car feels a little more eager to accelerate Dunno

Pic from last nights run-in drive-out.

________________________________________

1343Z4 coolant hose o-rings for sale
Posted 21st Apr 2021 at 19:02

Pages (8): first .. 6 7 [8]

All times are GMT. The time is now 18:02

The Peugeot GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club Ltd - Registered in England & Wales - Reg No: 07410694 - ©2021 all rights reserved.

Please Note : The views and opinions found herein are those of individuals, and not of The Peugeot 306 GTi-6 & Rallye Owners Club Ltd or any individuals involved.
No responsibility is taken or assumed for any comments or statements made on, or in relation to, this website. Please see our updated privacy policy and legal information