10w40, full send, change it after mapping.

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

I thought I had it all worked out

Getting some pressure behind the rings is the vital bit from what I can tell. WOT from low speed in a high gear should be the way to go.

Still open to advice/opinions though

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1343Z4 coolant hose o-rings for sale

Great update Tom

Hope you get it started mucker

You're right, they don't need any sealer but I figured it couldn't do any harm The Stag Wellseal is really thin runny stuff that doesn't set but works well on imperfect machined surfaces so it'll fill any gaps the gaskets can't flex in to. It also helped hold the gaskets in place whilst I put the covers on.

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1343Z4 coolant hose o-rings for sale

Brought the car home yesterday evening. Did about 20 miles and it feels brilliant - quiet, smooth and the new clutch is a joy, couldn't be happier

With a job taking this amount of time, effort and money you always question what you're doing with your life but driving the car again, with the way it handles, the ride and the sound it makes, all of the reservations get quickly forgotten.

Previously I'd run the car up to temperature whilst static but varying the revs between idle and sub 3K.
Once it was up to temp I changed the running-in oil for more of the same, new filter and replaced the water with 50:50 coolant mix.

Driving the car for the 20 mile trip I was on a dual carriageway followed by some A and B roads. Being 6.30 / 7ish in the evening the roads were reasonably quiet so finding space to accelerate in 4th on WOT from 2K to 4K, then letting it run back down again, wasn't an issue - I was a bit apprehensive about doing this on public roads but it really wasn't an issue at that time of the day, just checking mirrors etc & making sure I had plenty of space ahead and behind.

Planning on doing much the same most evenings. I'll change to a 10W40 semi-synth and fresh filter somewhere before 500 miles / when the car feels like it's at full power again.

I've got a couple of minor drips of oil from the sump /sump plug area. The sump bolts were tightened to 10Nm but there's info out there that suggests 20Nm so I'll give them all a nip-up and check the drain plug. The cam covers have also got a couple of runs so I'll nip those down too and keep an eye on things.

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1343Z4 coolant hose o-rings for sale

Fantastic Read Tom

Good luck Mucker

Well, I got my burger and the drive out was pleasant. Apologies if I upset any Sussex residents with my driving but, needs must

I've got about 60miles left to do until I reach the 500mile marker so I expect I'll be changing the oil come the weekend.
I've been building things up to 5K+ rpm and nothing's gone pop yet. Mechanically all seems well; I've got the tiniest amount of oil being dropped and this is from the rear cam-cover, planning to remove that and add more Wellseal when I do the oil change.

There's been a few electrical issues that have affected the running (or so it feels). The speedo was behaving strangely with the following symptoms:
Odd ticking on 1st and 2nd position at ignition, couldn't hear it once car was started.
Flickering rev needle accompanying the tick.
Rev & speedo needle not moving until the car was rolling.
Coolant temp not returning to zero on turning the car off, stayed at 70.
Right turn indicator lamp on display not working.
Car felt harsh/jolting on gear changes.

This has all been resolved by swapping to a spare instrument cluster from an XSi. I've lost the oil temp functionality on the display but I've got a separate gauge for oil temp now.

Mileage on knackerd dials at removal.


Mileage on replacement dials at replacement (screen shot from a video).


Temp and pressure gauges.


Had a bit of a problem with getting the gauges to work initially. Turns out they don't like an LED as the low oil pressure warning indicator. Had to find a red filament lamp to make it all work. Prior to this revelation I'd spent a week trying all sorts of wiring configurations and had the pressure gauge going backwards at one point!

I was going to wait to do this until the final oil change of the running-in process but thought, why not do it now.
I'd assumed the OE air filter, although being relatively new, would be contaminated with oil given how heavily the engine had been breathing (I wasn't wrong!) so had planned to replace it. I found an ITG Performance filter on eBay for a bit less than they're currently available for from Merlin Motorsport so snapped it up.



It was more the airbox lid/base, than the filter, that was contaminated with oil and filtered debris.
Doesn't appear to have made any noticeable change to the sound but the car feels a little more eager to accelerate

Pic from last nights run-in drive-out.

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1343Z4 coolant hose o-rings for sale