Hi Alistair

Getting the drill bit central is a good start so I used a centre punch. If you can file flat the broken-off bit of the bolt that helps with centring the punch.
Then it's just a case of slow and steady and regularly checking you're on target. Start with a small bit and work your way up. A lot of the time the heat caused by the drilling process will free the broken bolt and it'll end up coming out on the end of a larger bit. If that doesn't happen, and you're running out of material to remove, then you could try an easyout (never had much success with them) or just go in with the tap.

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Lots of activity in the Projects section so I thought I'd update mine.

It came down to screwdrivers and pics to remove the final bits of underseal from the spaces the grinder and drill couldn't reach.



It wasn't worth leaving anything untouched as even areas that looked ok were hiding crusty spot welds.



Finally got the Bilt Hamber zinc primer on after a final once over with the wire brushes and some Deox gel in a few areas.









Unfortunately there's a hole in each wheel arch, where it meets the boot floor. Passenger side is the worst.



Plan is to leave the wheel arches in zinc primer, complete the underside, get the car mobile and have the holes repaired.

I'd had some success in using my tiny compressor and mini gun, in spraying the primer on, but it was too much hassle in constantly adjusting the gun settings to get the paint to spray in the right consistency etc. I resorted to rolling the paint on undiluted and that worked pretty well; no overspray, paint applied at a decent thickness, no cleaning the gun after. The textured finish will also help the next layers adhere.



Only downside is getting in to the gaps etc but a selection of foam brushes sorted that.

Seam sealer next then epoxy mastic. Just ordered some Cherry Red tinted Raptor bed-liner that'll be applied over the epoxy mastic after keying it up.

Hopefully mobile by 1st March to get those holes repaired.

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So is your underside coatings:
bare metal - Bilt Hamber zinc primer - seam sealer - epoxy mastic - raptor?

Are you putting anything on top of the raptor or just leaving as is? Also, any doubling of coats at ay stage?

How do you rate the BH zinc primer?....I hadn't thought of that so was thinking I'd do mine as 2 coats of epoxy mastic followed by seam sealer and a third coat of epoxy, then Raptor (untinted for me as I only need black). It's been suggested to me that I overcoat the raptor with black top coat and 2 layers of lacquer to make the raptor easy to clean but that's effectively 7 layers which seems like overkill. What do you think?

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1999 GTi-6 (china blue)
1999 Rallye (black)

That sounds good Tom. The more I think about it, adding top coats over the Raptor would be a waste of time due to the likelihood of stone chips....you'd be back through to the Raptor anyway.

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1999 GTi-6 (china blue)
1999 Rallye (black)

Nice work Tom!

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Goldie the track car.

Every time i've used seam sealer it's looked a mess too.

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Goldie the track car.

The epoxy mastic dried fairly quickly despite the less-than-ideal application temps. As it happens, I couldn't get back to do anything for a few days so it was nice and hard by the time I returned to key it up. Keyed area on the left, glossy right side still to do in this pic.



A good few hours of getting in to all the edges with the scotchbrite and I was ready to put the Raptor on. Upol recommend 40psi for the smoothest finish but I wanted it fairly textured so went for 25psi. Couple of coats with 90mins in between (upol suggest 60mins but it was early double figures when I sprayed)



Another week on and got the beam back on.



Bent up a fresh length of cunifer for the left to right brake pipe. All of the pipes are getting replaced including the long bulkhead to back of car one's.



The beam mounts at the rear aren't that old but weren't looking great.



The mounts at the front are similar age/mile genuine Peugeot and are fine. Replaced the knackered Febi one's with Hutchinson.

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It's been a while. Time for an update.

Bent the rest of the brake lines to shape and got them, along with the beam, fitted to the car...



Along with new brake cables from the Peugeot Museum



The holes in each rear wheel arch...



... were repaired and painted with zinc primer, epoxy mastic and finished in body colour Raptor paint.





I'd removed the rear carpet & trim for the welding (had some exhaust heat shield studs replaced too) so decided to remove the sound deadening from behind the front seats



Saved 2.5Kg and I can't hear any increase in road noise or panel drumming

Engine had been leaking oil from somewhere so I put some UV dye in but didn't have to shine the UV torch in the bay to see where it was coming from.



I was using the Thermotec gaskets after having the cam covers machined down to get rid of the protrusions that stop you from crushing the original seals and oil spray bars. The gaskets never really sealed that well and I know the rear cam cover was leaking. I'd tried some Loctite RTV in addition to the seals but clearly it wasn't working.

Removed the cam covers and scraped the RTV off



And bit the bullet and bought some NOS cam covers from the Peugeot Museum



New seals



Had a spare inlet vapour blasted and bolted the shiny bits back to the engine



You might notice the absence of the PCV near the cam cover in the above pic. That's been taken out and a catch can plumbed in.



Mounted it down here...



... after making up a bracket that bolts to the manifold support



I'd be really interested oin hearing views on the mounting position as I'm not 100% on whether mounting it below the level of the cam cover is a good idea.

Also, I'm guessing the PCV thing, that's usually by the cam cover, is a vacuum regulator so that not too much vacuum is pulled on the PCV system (drawing oil out?). Maybe removing it is a bad idea but I'll be keeping an eye on how much residue is collected in the catch can.

Finally got out and enjoyed the car. Had a few good drives and went to a show with PSCUK

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fair bit of fade there. Nice to freshen up the decals

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Just Drive It

There she sits looking a bit sorry for herself (green stuff is screen wash)



Winter updates are well underway. Acquired a Ph2 VTS rack and replaced the rods, ends and boots with TRW & Lemforder bits (correct length rods for the 306 ).



Apparently, the rack has about 50K on it and was one of the last units available from Citroen. It also came with all of the pipe work and the pump...

... which was lucky as my pump was disintegrating and there was probably debris in the old pipes as well as in the resevoir .



Fished all the metal chunks out with a magnet on a stick and flushed with WD40.

I've got some parts off for refinishing at the moment so, more updates to follow!

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looking good as always bub

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Ph2 Black GTI 6!

EX black 6 owner
But now a Black caged rallye owner

Hunting for Go faster bits!


SEARCH

click here

Looking good! How difficult was it to fit the diff?

Pretty simple actually. Recommend just getting the subframe completely out of the way. I used some engine assembly lube on the bearing shells (so they stayed on the bearings) as trying to get them to stay put whilst placing the diff in the box was a faff.



Cheers! Got a few more bits to do before it's back on the road for spring:

Paint & refit brake servo.
Fit Hovis16's PeterT cams.
Timing belt & water pump (not due until August but makes sense to do whilst cams are being replaced).
Final assembly on the lighter engine mounts + alternator & belt etc.
Refit rad & front end etc.
Collect refurbed Cyclones and fit tyres.
Bleed brakes.
Find someone to fix the dent in the drivers door from when i jacked it against the garage door frame (idiot).

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198131 injector o-rings for sale