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Author Subject: Tom's Red Rallye
S8-Tom

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Location: Chichester

Registered: 02 Feb 2018

Posts: 327

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Post #151
Engine things have been progressing nicely although I've had a couple of setbacks...

The first setback was with the final headbolt, about 2mm sheared off of the top!



That came out easily enough with a cobalt drill bit, cutting fluid and a slow'n'steady approach with the drill.



Head came off and was disassembled. Gave all of the lifters a poke before removing and they were all nice and firm.



I tidied-up the head and checked it all over with a precision straight edge and a .05mm feeler gauge. Pleased to report that there's no distortion to speak of with only some minor indentation from the HG fire rings.



Head's been dropped to Brett Sims Motorsport where it'll have a tiny amount taken off to remove the fire ring indentation, valve seats re-cut and new valve guides.



The head measured-up at 136.91mm which was a relief as there's still enough material to play with.



With that done I painted the block...



...cleaned the pistons



(obviously had a belt filure at some point in its past)



...and set-to with the measuring devices to check the wear on the crank





All checked out and well within tolerance (which is lucky as I'd already bought standard bearings Big grin )

Next I put the rings in to the freshly honed bores to check the gaps, this is where setback number 2 occurred Cry



Gaps on the top and second/middle ring were measuring at 0.4-0.5mm, they should be about 0.25mm ideally. Clearly something was very wrong. Either I'd made a mess of measuring the bores or the hone had been more aggressive than needed. I'm inclined to think that the error is with me due to lack of experience using the dial bore gauge.

So I've now got two blocks with bores that are out of spec for standard pistons Cry

Only thing I can do now is use the original block, have the bores enlarged and use the oversize Mahle pistons I've found.





Edit: Found the pistons at a bargain price here!

I've been talking to them and they've confirmed they can be ordered and that they're suitable for the XU10J4RS Hyper









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Posted 2nd Nov 2020 at 12:29
welshpug!

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Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #152
that's interesting to see, I wonder if anyone still has the jig to change the pistons on the standard rods though, they aren't a press fit but shrink fit.

the factory procedure is to use an induction heater to heat the small end of the rod evenly and as soon as a blob of solder (from memory) melts near the small end its time to slip a chilled pin in.

there is a jig to hold the piston and rod to ensure the pin doesn't drop straight through.

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Posted 2nd Nov 2020 at 16:54
S8-Tom

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Post #153
welshpug! wrote:
that's interesting to see, I wonder if anyone still has the jig to change the pistons on the standard rods though, they aren't a press fit but shrink fit.


Yeah, it is a slight concern. Reckon anyone ever had the official kit Big grin
Shrink fit pins aren't that uncommon and 'universal' jigs, with a variety of tooling sizes, can be had. Bearing induction heaters are widely used too.I've e-mailed Brett to see if he's got the kit.

Also, the rods in the 'R' and 'RS' engines appear to be exactly the same so I've got some spares from the XSi I broke + I don't need to save any of the pistons so the only concern is with assembly and damaging the new pistons.

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Posted 2nd Nov 2020 at 17:54
welshpug!

Capt Pedantic

Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #154
I have some that are in the scrap pile ready to be weighed in LOL

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Posted 2nd Nov 2020 at 20:51
Day666

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Post #155
Fantastic update Tom ...good luck m8 ...keep the updates and pics coming mucker Thumbs up
Posted 3rd Nov 2020 at 17:31
S8-Tom

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Post #156
Day666 wrote:
Fantastic update Tom ...good luck m8 ...keep the updates and pics coming mucker Thumbs up



Cheers. There's some amazing stuff happening over on your project thread, inspiring stuff Thumbs up

I've changed the title of the thread so that the reg can't be searched. I've also moved the car to a secure location Flip I was looking out for somewhere to store the car and work on it under cover; my hand was forced and I was lucky that something came up reasonably nearby! There's a Peugeot dealer, Euro Car Parts, the powder coater I use and a McD's in close proximity Big grin The garages are also in a gated compound.



The pistons arrived from a Czech supplier some time back. UK suppliers wanted £90+vat each. I paid £270 delivered and they arrived within a week.







Pistons and original block were dropped off not long after I received the pistons.


This morning I went and picked up my block, head & pistons from Mr Sims. Cracking job and done in time for Xmas Santa

Just a teaser pic for now.





Also had the cam covers machined flat so I can make full use of the ThermoTec seals.



We've got:

Bored, decked & honed block to suit the 86.6mm Mahle pistons
Balanced rods
Balanced pistons
Pistons fitted to rods (pins shrink fitted)
Replacement valve guides
4 angle valve seats + throats blended + valves lapped in
Small amount off of the head to remove minor fire ring indentations
New stem seals fitted



Looking forward to getting stuck in over the Christmas break.

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Posted 21st Dec 2020 at 13:54
Day666

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Post #157
Fantastic news Tom Thumbs up

Thank you it’s getting easier now I have the vision of the finished car LOL

Keep the updates coming please Thumbs up
Posted 21st Dec 2020 at 14:07
S8-Tom

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Post #158
Forgot to mention, Brett said he'd cut down and tapered the exhaust valve guides (think that's right?) to improve flow. I'll get some pics when I unwrap the head.

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Posted 21st Dec 2020 at 14:57
prism7guy

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Post #159
Nice update Thumbs up

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Posted 21st Dec 2020 at 20:10
S8-Tom

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Post #160
Hope you've all had a good Christmas?

I had a look at the head to see if I could spot what'd been done to the valve guides. You can see in the pic below that the exhaust one's (top pic) are shorter than the inlet one's so there's less of an obstruction to exiting exhaust gasses.




Made a start on assembling things. Cleaned out all of the old RTV from the threads on the block.



Cleaned the oil squirters



and installed



Crank went in next.



After my failure with measuring what was to be the replacement block I double checked things with some Plastigauge.



All checked out fine as did the end float which was at 0.11mm (tolerance is 0.07 to 0.22mm). Hockey stick seals on No.1 main cap have also been intstalled.

Piston's went in next.



This all went well...



... aside from the final piston (No.3 bore). I managed to chip the second ring Cry






Been to the local factors with the part number this morning, they're a Mahle dealer but don't list them. They need to order from their supplier who isn't open until the new year Doh

I've e-mailed the Czech supplier that I bought the pistons from to see if he can get them any quicker so we'll see.

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Posted 29th Dec 2020 at 12:35
blandy

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Post #161
Been following this on Instagram as well. That’s some bad luck - I did exactly the same with one of my wossners when I did mine so easily done
Posted 29th Dec 2020 at 14:19
gnrlee Forum Admin

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Post #162
I once did exactly the same thing,..
I'd remove the original piston rings and kept them in tact and reused one of those without any issue,..
All my Chambers hold 220psi

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Posted 2nd Jan 2021 at 01:17
S8-Tom

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Post #163
gnrlee wrote:
I once did exactly the same thing,..
I'd remove the original piston rings and kept them in tact and reused one of those without any issue,..
All my Chambers hold 220psi



Did consider this but, as new rings in the spare (honed) block had a gap that was too big I'm certain that the situation would be even worse in this over-bored block Dunno

Been on the phone to the local factors this morning and I've ordered the LAST set of rings left in Germany. Lead time of 4-6weeks but hopeful that they'll be here sooner.

Another option is to go for the next size up Mahle 87mm rings. These are more readily available and might work with a bit of filing to the ends to achieve the right gap - might try that if I get too impatient although Tier 4 + poor weather means there's no rush to get the car back on the road I suppose.

I had a bash at disassembling the lifters to give them a good clean.



Weren't particularly dirty although cars had a lot of fresh oil + the flush recently.

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Posted 4th Jan 2021 at 11:38
gnrlee Forum Admin

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Post #164
Thumbs up

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Posted 5th Jan 2021 at 08:35
S8-Tom

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Post #165
S8-Tom wrote:
Another option is to go for the next size up Mahle 87mm rings. These are more readily available and might work with a bit of filing to the ends to achieve the right gap


I found the 87mm rings on Amazon (part 011 58 N2) for less than £10 delivered so didn't have much to lose. Rings are identical but about 1mm longer Thumbs down Might have a go at filing an end but I know the right thing to do is wait for the correct part to show up.




I did contact the Czech supplier. He could do the right rings for about £8 but, they'd had to change their courier recently due to the new border/trade arrangements. All in it was going to cost me £45!


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Posted 25th Jan 2021 at 10:27
S8-Tom

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Post #166
On 1st March it'll be 8 weeks since I ordered my replacement piston rings. I've chased the supplying Motor Factor but don't want to continually hassle them.

On 24th Feb I contacted my Czech friend, the one who supplied my pistons. I placed an order for two sets of rings and paid the expensive shipping fee. All in it was £50 for two sets of rings + the shipping, this is still cheaper than buying two sets of rings in the UK (circa £60).
Today, two days after placing my order, I received notification that the rings are on their way from Czech Republic and should be with me on 2nd March.

It seems nuts to me that I can't get these rings from a UK supplier sooner. I appreciate that the supplier might be waiting to put in a bulk order with Mahle EU and then there's customs & Covid to deal with but still.... Rant over, looks like the engine build will recommence 1st week of March.

Whilst waiting for my rings I've been wondering what to do with my oil pressure sender and warning light switch.





It's pretty obvious it's not going to fit around the harness bracket.



I could put it by the oil filter but I want to put an oil temp switch there (there's reasons why I'm not using the sump one). Only option is to mount it remotely so I've gathered some AN fittings and braided hose. not sure exactly where it's going yet but the banjo fitting will send it out 90degs and fit well beneath the harness bracket.



Not visible in the pic is the AN-6 to M16x1.5 fitting on the sender/switch T-piece.

Once the pistons are in and the head's on I'll look at where this is all going to go, feel free to suggest suitable locations.

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Posted 26th Feb 2021 at 14:56
jeffers Forum Admin

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Post #167
I bought a remote hose for pointing my oil pressure sender and switch, I think I got it from tweaks but it was about 7 years ago I reckon. Then I just made a little bracket to mount it too near the thermostat housing... just a thought for you.
*Edit* This one... https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/lma-oil-pressure-remote-t-piece-244352/ And one of these for the block... https://www.demon-tweeks.com/eu/lma-gauge-sender-unit-adaptors-244347/

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Posted 26th Feb 2021 at 20:52
marksorrento205

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Post #168
I am on my third Stack oil pressure sender. The first lasted ok but ended up being intermittent before getting mangled in an ‘off’ and the second one lasted one trackday. I have now mounted it remotely in the hope it lasts a bit longer.

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Posted 26th Feb 2021 at 21:24
Day666

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Post #169
Looking good Tom
Yep strange you can get it from abroad easier ...hope you don’t get caught with import duty like many are Thumbs down

Posted 27th Feb 2021 at 15:45
S8-Tom

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Post #170
Thanks for the tips Thumbs up

I'd read a couple of posts about the sender being affected by heat and vibration so that helped along the decision to mount it remotely (that and it was physically impossible LOL) I had a look at the remote location kits but they all seemed to use adapter upon adapter which seems too many joints for oil to escape to me; clearly they work though so maybe I should've just saved myself a few quid...

Back to the main event, the rings showed up Hyper



A week later than advised due to some paperwork being missing for customs; still, all the way from the Czech Republic in less than 2 weeks.

I've now got all 4 pistons back in the block and everything's torqued down. Windage tray, oil pump and dipstick guide are all back on as are the new chain and one-piece pump drive.



Speaking of the oil pump, I'd dropped it in a bucket of petrol to clean up. On lifting it out, after a week of soaking, I noticed a lump of black RTV visible in the strainer/pick-up. I hooked it out but thought it'd be a good idea to get the gauze out and check for any more, lucky I did...



This is all from a hasty attempt to seal what I thought was a leaking sump but what actually turned out to be the engine breathing heavily.

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Posted 9th Mar 2021 at 10:42
S8-Tom

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Post #171
All came together quite quickly once the rings were fitted and the pistons back in their bores.



I was a bit disappointed with the powdercoating on the cam covers. I was warned that 'silver' wasn't particularly durable and that's been proved to be right. The colour seems to rub away to leave a dull grey finish Thumbs down

Decided to recoat with a grey wrinkle paint.



Roughed up the powdercoat with some 120 then 240. Paint seems to have gone on reasonably well.



Before painting I checked that the covers weren't going to crush the cam spray bars now that I've had the lugs removed in order to fit the Therma-tec seals.





All good Thumbs up



Got next week off work so I'm planning on getting the engine mounted back in the car.

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Posted 16th Mar 2021 at 13:24
eiei0

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Post #172
Looking good Tom
Posted 16th Mar 2021 at 15:55
jeffers Forum Admin

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Post #173
How’re you planning on running this in Tom?

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Posted 16th Mar 2021 at 19:13
S8-Tom

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Post #174
eiei0 wrote:
Looking good Tom


Thanks. Looks like you're not far off getting yours started and on the road?

jeffers wrote:
How’re you planning on running this in Tom?


Good question. Rough plan is:

Millers running in oil and just straight deionised water. Run for 20mins varying revs up to 2000rpm mainly to check for leaks etc.
Drain oil & water. New filter. More running in oil + coolant mix this time.
For 200 miles'ish drive the car keeping revs below 4K and allowing it to run down from 4K. Also take in some hills to load it up.
After that, regular 10W40 semi-synthetic and a new filter and drive as normal Dunno

If anyone's got any advice or recommendations I'd be glad to hear them Thumbs up

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Posted 17th Mar 2021 at 14:56
eiei0

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Post #175
If I get a good burst at it over the next few days at it I hope to have it started by the weekend, and it's just cleaning and tidying after that, Have our equivalent of a MOT booked for early April so if that goes well it will be on the road,

S8-Tom wrote:
eiei0 wrote:
Looking good Tom


Thanks. Looks like you're not far off getting yours started and on the road?

jeffers wrote:
How’re you planning on running this in Tom?


Posted 17th Mar 2021 at 16:14

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