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Author Subject: Tom's Red Rallye
S8-Tom

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Post #76
Well that was fun. My advice is, if you're thinking of doing a beam refresh yourself don't, pay one of the established guy's to do it for you. I haven't/won't have saved any money in doing this myself but I will have gained a lot of experience - experience that tells me to pay somebody else to do it!
In all honesty I like doing stuff myself, it's just the frustration of it all that gets me.

In the last post I had the torsion bars in the original beam soaking in PlusGas. This worked reasonably well as the method of extraction, some 12.9 grade bolts and a socket, was successful.

I popped out the bearings in the original tube just to see what was going on. Here's a picture of the worst bearing. You can clearly see where the trailing arm shaft has worn through the outer shell.



I now had:
Knackered beam tube.
Knackered trailing arms.
Good 20mm torsion bars.
Spare beam still assembled.

Hoping that the spare beam was in a usable state I set to with the same methods of disassembly as previously.
Hmmm, ARB end-plates were a bugger to remove. Bolts in end of torsion bars were a bugger to remove. Torsion bars themselves were going nowhere; I snapped all of the 12.9 grade bolts I'd bought.

I fished out some M16 stud I had and made a puller.



Nope, that didn't work either. Off to see a chap with the right tools for the job and he had the torsion bars out in 10mins (I definitely loosened them though).

I was relieved to see the trailing arms in good shape. This one in particular would be reusable.



Bearings weren't bad either.



The trailing arms from the original beam have had their shafts and stub axles removed and I've also got the ABS sensors out without too much grief. Everything is now with the powder-coater and I'll await the call to go and collect.

In the meantime I've got new handbrake cables to fit and a driveshaft seal to replace.

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Posted 20th Sep 2019 at 09:24
hovis16

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Post #77
Rear beams are a b**ch. Destroyed 3 on my old 6 Sad bought bronze bearing oilite conversion and never looked back.

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Posted 22nd Sep 2019 at 09:51
S8-Tom

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Post #78
Guessing bronze bushes would work (and obviously have) in a rear beam application. They'd also be readily available from a local bearing supplier. There'd be a bit of stiction but a good option for a more heavy duty/race application.

The original needle rollers seem to be good for 100K'ish and my Rallye's just a weekend/fun car. Interested to see any pics of the bronze bushes though?

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Posted 22nd Sep 2019 at 14:21
hovis16

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Post #79
Mines currently track setup so the beam does take a bit of a pounding along with the solid mounts.I may have a picture somewhere will have to check

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Posted 22nd Sep 2019 at 15:07
S8-Tom

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Post #80
No much to see here, just documenting the process...

Whilst the beam parts are off at the powder coaters I've been cleaning-up some of the brackets and also the calipers.

Round 1


Round 2


Caliper and heat shield parts will be coated in VHT silver and the rest will be black. All external seals will be replaced on the calipers as the originals are mostly torn and/or brittle.

I've made-up new rigid lines for the section between flexi-line and caliper. I've used Kunifer for the first time and, although it's more difficult to form, it's more rigid and holds its form better. Also fitted new handbrake cables for good measure.

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Posted 30th Sep 2019 at 13:38
S8-Tom

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Post #81
Almost there with the beam refurb...

Collected the parts from the powder coaters at the end of last week.




I got someone else to press in the trailing arm shafts and stub axles. Unfortunately the bracket, on the trailing arm, that holds the caliper and abs sensor got broken whilst pressing in the stub axle. I've replaced that with a spare that I cleaned up and painted gloss black to match the powder coat on the rest of the trailing arm.

Over the weekend I tidied up the ends of the beam tube...


...keyed the yellow powder coat and applied several coats of gloss black.


I bought a shiny hardware kit from axlesbystef...


...and began fitting the axle to the car.


I bagged a pair of OE front beam mounts from eBay for £30 so these replace the Febi one's I fitted not so long ago.


Not the best pics I'm afraid.

I've got the drivers side on with torsion bar in. Passenger side left to do + refit brakes with new rigid & flexi lines and re-attach the exhaust. Assembling it all on the car as I think it'll be easier to lift it all in to position - seems to have worked so far.


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Posted 7th Oct 2019 at 12:42
hovis16

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Post #82
Looking good

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Posted 8th Oct 2019 at 18:26
S8-Tom

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Post #83
hovis16 wrote:
Looking good


Thanks! Yeah, it's looking pretty tidy and it's a shame it'll all be hidden by the heat shield, exhaust and spare Thumbs down

Pretty much there now and excited to see how it performs Hyper Axle is completely assembled and I've fitted the replacement flexi and rigid lines. Calipers have had all of the external rubbers replaced.
Left to do is: fit painted pad carrier, backing plate and pads then bleed the brakes. Fit cables in to calipers and adjust parking brake. Re-fit exhaust, heatshield and spare wheel.

I've bucked the trend of Bilstein dampers and gone for Monroe Monotube dampers


I was hoping to get their Reflex version (part E5001) although these seem impossible to source. I've ended up with the 'Original' version.


The difference between the two is that the 'Reflex' has a speed-sensitive valve which I assume is just a sprung check valve against the compression shim stack? I think the 'Original' flavour will be fine for my purposes/on a road car Thumbs up

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Posted 9th Oct 2019 at 09:36
S8-Tom

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Post #84
Been through and swapped out all of the blurry Photobucket links.

Thought I'd best grab a few quick pics before the exhaust etc goes on. Bit dark but, you've all seen refurbed beam before.







I did start tidying the exhaust heatshield but ran out of time.

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Posted 11th Oct 2019 at 16:10
S8-Tom

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Post #85
Little update on progress over the last couple of months...

After refurbishing the axle and getting it back on the car I had a couple of issues to resolve. One of the wheel bearings hadn't survived the removal and refit process so that got replaced with a Motaquip item. In a similar vein, and not unusually, one of the ABS sensors wasn't happy so that got replaced again with a Motaquip item as it looks like Bosch are no longer making them.

With that done, and winter looming, I found and fitted some mudflaps. I'm not planning to drive the Rallye much over the wetter months but it will be used now and again. I say fitted, the fronts are on as they're easy, I'm still figuring out the rears... Dunno
AS you may know, the mudflaps have a recess to attach a 'Peugeot' or '306' badge. The set I got came with a 'Peugeot' badge but it's in the old font and doesn't look great. To fill the recess on the mudflaps I've had these made


And applied to one of the yet-to-be-fitted rear flaps


Next job is replacing the front dampers. I've gone for matching Monroe units and I've bought new spring pans and cups etc from the dealer. Also got some replacement Lemforder top mounts+bearings and this morning I collected the freshly powder coated Xsara VTS springs I had from Ben_W.



And assembled


I'll get them fitted over the Christmas break if the weather's ok.



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Posted 18th Dec 2019 at 12:09
hovis16

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Post #86
Looking good

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Posted 19th Dec 2019 at 21:29
mik

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Post #87
Nice work, coming along nicely.

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Posted 19th Dec 2019 at 23:03
Day666

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Post #88
Looks amazing Tom Thumbs up
Posted 21st Dec 2019 at 18:12
S8-Tom

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Post #89
Thanks gents and happy new year to you all!

I've got a few bits done over the festive period. The replacement dampers & springs are on, front feels a bit firmer and the mudflaps are no longer grounding. Steering feels a little lighter, maybe due to the new strut top bearings. Not much to see but the new top-mounts look nice in the engine bay




After the steering knuckle was replaced for the MOT back in March I'd had a bit of gear oil escaping from the seal. I'd replaced that seal with the 'new' type but I'd made a mess of putting it in and it continued to leak. Whilst the n/s strut was out, and I had better access, I removed the seal and replaced it again. This time I was supplied with the older style seal with the external teeth. I found this style easier to install as it's got a metal body beneath the rubber whereas the newer style is all rubber. Anyway, it seems to have sealed well this time




Also, I'd previously used the Eurorepar gearbox oil that Peugeot is supplying. This time I used the Total stuff and can't believe the difference it's made.




Having got that sealed up I fitted my undertray that's been siting around since February 2019.



It's a reproduction item from eBay that's listed for diesel Berligo & Xsara Picasso's. It fitted reasonably well but a bit of trimming had it fitting much better.


Next to do is address a small hole in the sill next to the fuel filter. Hoping a mate, who undertakes restorations to a high standard, will do it for me sometime before the end of March. He had this little 304 in when I visited him this week

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Posted 5th Jan 2020 at 12:38
S8-Tom

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Post #90
A little update...

Aside from the little hole in the sill (about the size of a 5p), my Rallye suffers from the not unusual bulkhead rust; the area where the '6 has its aircon pipes. This hadn't initially concerned me as iy was quite small and the surrounding area seemed solid enough. Oh dear, 9 moinths on the rust has progressed somewhat and I could probably fit my hand in the hole now!



Here's 9months to now


So that's getting done at the same time as the sill. I've got a repair panel on its way. The air-con 'hole' will be patched.



Rusty bits aside I've been collecting some replacement parts.
Looking to do the n/s chassis rail once the weather improves (or whilst the rusty bits are being addressed if time allows). I'll be removing the abs pump and fuse box to get as much access as I can. My Rallye has the screw-on type positive terminal and, although it's secure, the red bit has a bit broken off + the wires are looking corroded and nasty.
I've acquired both parts of the positive cable that go between battery, starter and fuse box so they'll be getting replaced once the chassis rail is tidied.





I also got a n/s section of splash guard that connects the arch liner to the undertray as Mine is missing.


Hopefully within a couple of weeks the rot will be gone and I won't have to worry about that for the MOT at the end of March.

Here's a recent picture Thumbs up

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Posted 20th Feb 2020 at 09:04
S8-Tom

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Post #91
Crazy times. Hope you're all keeping yourselves safe and healthy?

This’ll probably be a long post with lots of words & pics

Finally, the rusty bits have been sorted. It was a stressful couple of days having to remove so much, and worrying about putting it back, and seeing the Rallye being chopped in to.

The work was carried out by Sean @ DrVDub. I was at university with Sean and, like me, he found finding work in the mechanical engineering\design\manufacturing\materials industry a bit of a challenge when we’d finished our course. I went and worked in the cycling industry for a couple of years, as that’s where my interest was at the time, and eventually found a ‘proper job’ with a local highway authority undertaking highway engineering projects. Sean went on to do a PhD (hence ‘Dr’ V-Dub ) followed by working for a few car restoration places and then setting up on his own.

Sean’s incredibly thorough with his work and regularly turns away customers because they’re just looking for an MOT type of patch up job, he’ll only turn out work that’s as good as, if not better than, a factory fresh job. Good enough for a 20 year old French hatchback then!

A date was agreed and I set about removing the dash so that the bulkhead could be repaired without causing a fire by igniting the sound deadening. I’d replaced the heater matrix on a phase 1 306 in the past so I knew what I was getting in to.


Here’s how the rust looked from the inside.


I also carefully loosened all of the fasteners holding the fuel tank in place as that needed to be removed to safely weld the hole in the sill. Lots of PlusGas and working the fasteners in and out and running die over the stud got everything free.



The day arrived and surgery commenced. First, cutting out the affected area on the bulkhead.


Taking old metal bit-by-bit and checking with the replacement panel.


Final cut-out.


And marking up the replacement panel.


The lower edge consists of three sections spot welded together.


Sean used various abrasive implements to whittle away the outermost skin so that just the inner two were left (the outer, third skin, is the repair panel).



Then it was time to make good. Holes drilled in the replacement panel for the welds…


… and get welding


Panel in place prior to dressing back.


Tidied-up a bit.


Should’ve taken some pics before reassembly but, here it is with a couple of layers of Bilt Hamber Electrox and some Cherry Red from an aerosol. This is just a quick job by me to protect it until I can get in there and make a better job of it.




We applied some Electrox and then stone chip to the inside as this won’t be seen. The stone chip will provide adequate protection and, possibly, some sound deadening benefits.



The Electrox and stone chip was extended to the bottom left as there was also a small hole here that was repaired.



Pretty happy with that. On to the sill.
Tank out, fuel spilt straight down my sleeve up to my armpit. Nice! Here’s the hole in the sill; right next to where the fuel filter sits.



Surrounding area ground back ready to receive a fresh bit of metal.



Repaired. I went over the whole area with some Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 and then applied stone chip. I need to make a proper job of the whole underside but that’ll have to wait for now.



Fuel tank got cleaned up and I fitted a new fuel elbow and filter strap before reinstalling; we drained the fuel out of it this time though.



Fuel elbow was replaced as I spotted it had a leak when I was underneath loosening the fasteners.



Cracking job by Sean I hope you’ll agree? I’ll be back with him at some point as there’s some jacking damage to the sill by the front wheel to repair that I didn’t have the time, money and energy for this time around.

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Posted 24th Mar 2020 at 14:39
S8-Tom

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Post #92
With the lockdown, and longer evenings, I've got a bit of extra time to play with. MOT has lapsed so I've Sorned the car and got on with some extra jobs.

The master cylinder must've had a leak at some point as the paint on the servo had wrinkled up. I hadn't helped this situation when I removed the brake lines to do the bulkhead as a lot of fluid got spilt.

As the dash was already out, removing the servo was reasonably easy.
I've removed all of the paint and coated with BH Hydrox 80 then some etch primer, high-build primer and some satin black.



With the bulkhead completely clear I thought I'd tidy that up. Wire brush on the drill and removed what little rust there was. Slathered it in BH Deox Gel and waited a couple of days for the magic to happen.



Looking reasonably clean



Wiped down with panel wipe and then a couple of coats of BH Electrox, 2hrs apart. Then waited the required 96hrs and applied some seam sealer, not the prettiest job No Dunno





You can see in the above that I'd started down the passenger side. I've cleaned this back all the way to the front of the car and I've just finished applying some Deox Gel (had to order more & it arrived today).



It's a fairly thin coat, although the pic makes it look thinner than it actually is, as the rust was minimal and most of it came away with the wire cup brush. I'll give that a couple of days, under clingfilm, with a bit of light agitation after 24hrs then apply some Electrox.
I'm going to try spraying some epoxy mastic on the bulkhead and down the passenger side as I don't think brushing it on will leave a good enough finish.

I've also been cleaning up a couple of bits with some citric acid. Here's the heater matrix hose clamps and subframe spacers/nuts/things after de-rusting and before Electrox.





I've got a freshly powder-coated subframe and anti-roll-bar to go on at some point.

I got my hands on a tidy splitter. All of the mounting points are intact and I've installed a bunch of rivnuts and bolted it to the car. Bloody nightmare trying to wind in the M4 bolts.






Stay with me, we're almost there. Last couple of bits:

I've been pleased with the MTS exhaust parts I've fitted to the car. A few others, from the FB pages, have also bought and fitted some MTS exhaust parts and have been similarly impressed. I fitted the final piece in the MTS exhaust puzzle whilst I was with Sean and had the use of his ramp. Not as big as the OE item, so I'm told, but it's longer and wider than the cheap Cat that was on there.



And finally, with the heater box out it'd be silly not to change the matrix. With the amount of ham fisted buggery (fisted and buggery in the same sentence Thumbs up ) I've found on removing the dash I'm sure this car's had a matrix previously. It wasn't leaking but silly not to change it whilst I'm there.



Probably wouldn't have been long before this was spilling its guts everywhere.

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Posted 2nd Apr 2020 at 08:58
hovis16

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Post #93
ah man this I looking real good.

need to do mine next week now I'm off for 2 months

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Posted 2nd Apr 2020 at 09:51
deeturbo

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Post #94
What a great thread. Glad to see lots of progress being made.

I think I might have the wrong cat on mine as its not central like this one.

Is the cat an MTS one to?

Both my Dturbo and 6 need doing.

The 6 isn't too bad at the moment but I think the Dturbo might have rusted through now, wish I'd cleaned it up and painted it when it wasn't too bad.

I'll definitely do the 6 this year, I was hoping to get the engine out and do the whole bay but I'm thinking just make a start on the bits I can get to.
Posted 2nd Apr 2020 at 12:54
S8-Tom

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Post #95
hovis16 wrote:
ah man this I looking real good.

need to do mine next week now I'm off for 2 months


Cheers buddy. I thought you might've continued working in your line of work?
At least we've got something to fill the time with! Our cars will emerge on the other side in better shape.


deeturbo wrote:
What a great thread. Glad to see lots of progress being made.

I think I might have the wrong cat on mine as its not central like this one.

Is the cat an MTS one to?

Both my Dturbo and 6 need doing.

The 6 isn't too bad at the moment but I think the Dturbo might have rusted through now, wish I'd cleaned it up and painted it when it wasn't too bad.

I'll definitely do the 6 this year, I was hoping to get the engine out and do the whole bay but I'm thinking just make a start on the bits I can get to.


Thanks for the kind words and glad you're enjoying the read!

It is an MTS cat, Here it is against the old one.



These are the MTS part numbers. They've got an app which is pretty useful, you can see I've referenced the engine code to get the right parts.

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Posted 3rd Apr 2020 at 08:24
hovis16

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Post #96
S8-Tom wrote:
hovis16 wrote:
ah man this I looking real good.

need to do mine next week now I'm off for 2 months


Cheers buddy. I thought you might've continued working in your line of work?
At least we've got something to fill the time with! Our cars will emerge on the other side in better shape.

It dead at the moment so 7 of us at the moment isn't required. So I took the 2 month 80% offer. As you said I have enough to do with the car just have to make sure in the current climate I don't spend all my money tarting it up hahaha

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Posted 3rd Apr 2020 at 11:04
deeturbo

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Post #97
That cat does look a fair size compared to the one that came off your car.



That's the one that's on my car, you can see how close it is to the side of the tunnel, I guess it's not correct.

I'll have a look at swapping it out for an MTS one. Thanks for the part number.

I've noticed the tip on your back box is recessed a bit in the bumper more than normal. My car was like that when I bought it. I've now replaced the middle and back section and the tip in now level with the rear of the bumper. Could one of your bits be the wrong part and be the reason why you had issues fitting yours?
Posted 3rd Apr 2020 at 22:37
S8-Tom

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Post #98
deeturbo wrote:
That's the one that's on my car, you can see how close it is to the side of the tunnel, I guess it's not correct.

I've noticed the tip on your back box is recessed a bit in the bumper more than normal. My car was like that when I bought it. I've now replaced the middle and back section and the tip in now level with the rear of the bumper. Could one of your bits be the wrong part and be the reason why you had issues fitting yours?


From the pic it looks like your cat is twisted in relation to the centre section, maybe just the angle of the pic though. Perhaps the hanger on your centre section could be bent over a bit to make your cat sit more central.

Apparently the tip sitting recessed is due to the cheap aftermarket cats being slightly shorter. I think my tip is poking out a bit more now LOL


After doing the section under the ABS pump and fuse box I decided I needed to carry on and get the vertical surface of the chassis rail done as it was pretty scabby, more so than the drivers side I did last year.





It took longer to remove all the stuff in the way than it did to remove the crusty bits.





Went for the rust converter option as I wasn't confident I could get the metal clean enough; this seems to have worked on the drivers side.






Bulkhead and the passenger side chassis leg will be painted over with some epoxy mastic and then some Cherry Red Thumbs up Then I've got to put it all back together Erm?

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Posted 6th Apr 2020 at 08:41
S8-Tom

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Post #99
I got the epoxy mastic on both sides of the n/s chassis leg. It was brushed on but I really struggled with applying it this way on the engine bay side of things because of the engine & gearbox limiting access despite dropping it as low as it'd go. So, out came the engine & gearbox and I flatted back what I'd applied on the inside of chassis leg. Didn't bother with the wheel arch as that'll be getting some stonechip.



Also flatted back the o/s as this had the same treatment last year. The brush strokes weren't so obvious on this side but, why not make a better job of it whilst access is good?



You might see from the above that I've cleaned back a lot of the coatings in the lower corner on this side. There must've been a leak from the master cylinder at some point as brake fluid had lifted the rubberised coating. The metal was actually quite clean beneath but cot a clean-up and a coat of BH Electrox.



Yesterday afternoon I got the epoxy mastic on after waiting the required 96hours for the Electrox to cure.





This time I sprayed it on and it looks so much better, as you'd expect. I need to order some Cherry Red paint to finish things off and this'll also be going on the strut tops etc.


Going back to the master cylinder leak, the servo was also in a nasty state with paint bubbling up beneath where the MC would sit. I rubbed it all back, applied some Hydrate 80, etch primer, Matte Black from a rattle can finished off with some petrol resistant lacquer. No idea if the lacquer is brake fluid resistant but it's all I had!

The MC also got a rebuild with a new seal kit that was only £10 delivered from Bigg Red. Reservoir got a scrub and I refreshed the text on the cap with a paint pen.





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Posted 24th Apr 2020 at 11:12
deeturbo

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Post #100
Great progress being made there.

How did all the seals look coming out the master cylinder, did they all show signs of wear?
Posted 24th Apr 2020 at 17:30

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