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Author Subject: Tom's Red Rallye
Joep

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Location: Urmond (The Netherlands)

Registered: 19 Sep 2013

Posts: 361

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Post #51
The OE connectors, are they click on? Or do you need to solder the wires back on?

Can you tell me which Alpine speaker these are? Need a good set for my 306s.

________________________________________

My car park:
'96 Sigma Blue XSi6
'98 Diablo Red GTi6
'99 Onyx Black S16

All RFS powered!

Plus various other Peugeots
Posted 19th Jun 2019 at 12:27
S8-Tom

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Location: Chichester

Registered: 02 Feb 2018

Posts: 203

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Post #52
Joep wrote:
The OE connectors, are they click on? Or do you need to solder the wires back on?

Can you tell me which Alpine speaker these are? Need a good set for my 306s.


The OE connectors need to be soldered to the wires on the speaker. The speakers are the SXE-1725S that lots of people here have used. They're cheap and sound pretty good for the price!

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Posted 19th Jun 2019 at 12:35
Joep

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Location: Urmond (The Netherlands)

Registered: 19 Sep 2013

Posts: 361

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Post #53
Awesome! Thanks!

________________________________________

My car park:
'96 Sigma Blue XSi6
'98 Diablo Red GTi6
'99 Onyx Black S16

All RFS powered!

Plus various other Peugeots
Posted 19th Jun 2019 at 13:34
S8-Tom

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Location: Chichester

Registered: 02 Feb 2018

Posts: 203

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Post #54
It was a nice evening yesterday so I thought I'd get outside and change the ICV and PAS sensor for the new one's.

I hadn't noticed, when I removed the old ICV for cleaning, that there was no branding on it. Having placed the new and old side-by-side it looks like the old is of lesser quality and probably not a Magnetti Marelli item.


Anyone know if the gold coating is Titanium Nitride?

When I've replaced an ICV on a 306 previously, admittedly not with a MM one, the engine's hit 3K rpm and took forever to settle down (and never was quite right on idle). Having reconnected the battery and fired the car up I was pleased not to hear the engine reving its tits off. I let it run-up to temp so the ecu could settle itself in but all seems good so far.

Here's the old PAS sensor next to the old ICV.
It was a bit tight to get tools in and I lost a some fluid in the changeover but it's in and fluid all topped up.


The old PAS sensor has a violet band whereas the new has a white one. The colouring has something to do with different pressure sensing. Service Box suggests this Rallye should have the blanc/white banded sensor.


Also removed the speakers from the parcel shelf and I'll get on with swapping the connectors over during the week.
I'm pleased that the replacements are a bit heavier than the originals as the extra weight might help stop the parcel shelf flapping about.

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Posted 20th Jun 2019 at 09:23
S8-Tom

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Location: Chichester

Registered: 02 Feb 2018

Posts: 203

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Post #55
Got on with doing the speakers yesterday evening. There's quite a bit of work involved with swapping the OE connectors to the new speakers and, in hindsight, it's probably not worthwhile on rears anyway as everything comes out with the shelf.

Hey ho, it's done now and all working. This is what's involved if you're thinking about doing it...

The wires on the old speakers need to be de-soldered.
The cones need to be cut away from their housing as you need to access the underside of the yellow connector to remove a black clip.
The yellow connectors can then be removed.
On the new speakers the cables need to be de-soldered from each of the terminals.
The terminals then need to be pushed through the housing and removed.
A 3mm hole needs to be drilled between the slots the terminals were removed from. This allws the dowl on the back of the yellow connector to be pushed in securing it to the new speaker. I also used some hot glue to keep it in place.
The wires in the new speakers then need to soldered to the terminals on the yellow connector.





The silver screws are replacements for the black one's which aren't long enough to secure the new speakers to the baskets.


They go here


All back in and I used the FAD and BAL options on the OE head unit to check left and right were working.

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Posted 21st Jun 2019 at 10:58
Joep

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Location: Urmond (The Netherlands)

Registered: 19 Sep 2013

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Post #56
Just ordered the same speakers for the front and the parcelshelf. Good to see they fit in the housing Smile Thanks for the how-to!

________________________________________

My car park:
'96 Sigma Blue XSi6
'98 Diablo Red GTi6
'99 Onyx Black S16

All RFS powered!

Plus various other Peugeots
Posted 21st Jun 2019 at 13:53
S8-Tom

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Location: Chichester

Registered: 02 Feb 2018

Posts: 203

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Post #57
Little update. For my first Pugfest I wanted the car looking as presentable as it could be.

I applied another layer of colour and a few layers of clear to the tailgate. It looks ok now and matches the rear bumper at least. I also sanded, filled, primed and coated the spoiler. Initially I used some satin black but it really needed some texture, as it would've had originally. I used some Halfords rubber paint (Plastidip) and it's come out reasonably well.


Replacement boot badge purchased...


... and fitted


You can see that the clear needs flatting in the above pic so that's still to do.

I finished work early on Friday so I could clean, polish & wax the exterior of the car. On the way home I filled the tank to brim so I had plenty of fuel to get me to and back from Gloucester. Parked the car up at home and got on with the cleaning.
I was chasing shade around the parking area at home as it was too hot for polish and wax in the direct sun.
Every time I re-positioned the car I could smell fuel which concerned me a bit what with a 2hr 30min drive ahead of me. I kept checking under the bonnet, under the car and all of the fuel unions. Nothing, that is until I parked with the drivers side facing downhill slightly. Real strong smell of fuel and, checking under the car , a steady stream of fuel running from the fuel tank.
I surmised that the seal around the in-tank pump had obviously had it and and the full tank of fuel coupled with the downhill positioning of the driver side of the car meant that fuel was leaking out around the pump.



I thought I'd have to miss Pugfest for this year as I didn't fancy the drive with that leak. Not one to beaten easily I decided that I'd drain half a tank (ish) of fuel and see what happened. An early morning trip to Euro Car Parts and a return trip with a 20L jerry can saw a plan put in to action.
Some time ago I bought a 12v electric oil sucker/pump from Lidl. I was impressed at its ability to drain 10L of oil from my Vito in a very short space of time. I gave it a quick wipe over and stuffed the narrow extractor hose in to the fuel filler neck. Spare 12v battery (old one from this car) in the boot with sucker connected and boot shut, didn't want a tiny spark igniting the lot as that really would scupper my Pugfest plans. Outlet hose from the sucker in to an old 5L container and drained off 4ish litres of fuel to clean the old oil out of the sucker. Next, I drained off 20L in to the jerry can. Moved the car in to the drivers side down position and....

Success! No fuel leak.

Drove in convoy to Pugfest with 4 other cars and the Rallye never missed a beat but kept this to hand.


Pugfest was great and the weekend was topped off with the car club I was with winning best visiting club.


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Posted 3rd Jul 2019 at 10:49
S8-Tom

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Post #58
Not too much has gone on since Pugfest; infact, the car sat for nearly 2 weeks before I drove her again.

I gave her a quick wash on Saturday evening so she was looking her best for a local car meet on Sunday morning.


I had been annoyed by a metalic rattle from the drivers front wheel area. Car had been up and all of the new suspension components checked over and nothing was amiss.
Driving down a spiral ramp in a multistory car park the rattle made itself known but applying the brake made it disappear, Hmm

With the car up in the air again it was obvious that there was some play in the caliper. Also, the springs on the pads had 'popped' out (or I didn't seat them correctly Blush ) towards the top of the caliper.


New caliper sliders are around £60 from the dealer. I found a new set on eBay for £15 delivered.


Here's the old one's. I measured the diameters of the new and old and there wasn't a huge amount of difference to be honest but you can see that there's a bit of wear particularly to the slider at the top of the pic.


I'm guessing the rattle was more a result of the unseated springs on the pads than the wear on sliders but it's all done now and nice and quiet.

Timing belt is due next month so I thought I'd see if my crank pulley needed replacing by pinning the cams and crank. Everything's checked out ok and I'm considering whether money for a solid pulley would be better spent elsewhere.



I'm going to look at addressing that rust patch (top right) whilst I'm in there.

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Posted 15th Jul 2019 at 08:52
Ben_W

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Location: Lutterworth

Registered: 01 Sep 2007

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Post #59
It will be more than just that patch top right. Very common area for corrosion in a 306 this.

Ideally, you'll need to drop the coolant pipe (it will pretty much mean a coolant change but that never hurt...), remove the clips and clean up as much as you can. It already looks crusty around the left hand clip in the underside of the chassis leg.

________________________________________

Cherry Red Rallye .... On going OEM spec resto

China Blue GTi6 .... Daily driver

Silver Ph2 Xsara VTS

Posted 16th Jul 2019 at 06:26
S8-Tom

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Post #60
Thanks Ben. I suspect you're right!

I had a look at the engine-side of that chassis leg yesterday evening. There's corrosion from that point towards the front of the car.



I've got a tub of Deox gel (a necessity when you own a Merc Vito Wink )

I need to do the timing belt & water pump so my plan was to remove the coolant pipe + rad etc so I can get in there and investigate/treat. Also planning to remove the alternator/PAS pump + bracket as that'll provide more access for belts and grinding! The bracket will be powder coated whilst it's off.

My 'parts-to-buy' list includes a couple of the coolant hose clips as I doubt the barbed bit in the chassis leg is going to come out easily and be reusable. They're only £1.51 from the dealer.

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Posted 16th Jul 2019 at 09:21
S8-Tom

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Post #61
Ben_W wrote:
It will be more than just that patch top right. Very common area for corrosion in a 306 this.


Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes


Ben, I think you mentioned on your thread that you'd look at drilling the spot welds and removing that brake hose bracket. Did you do that?

Underside'ish where the coolant hose clips to.




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Posted 17th Jul 2019 at 12:12
Ben_W

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Post #62
Tom, no, I didn't in the end. There was no rust around mine so didn't see the point in doing so.

Looks like you might have caught that early enough. I'd consider using BH Hydrate 80 on that lot....

________________________________________

Cherry Red Rallye .... On going OEM spec resto

China Blue GTi6 .... Daily driver

Silver Ph2 Xsara VTS

Posted 17th Jul 2019 at 12:16
S8-Tom

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Post #63
Cool. Thanks for the advice. It's nice to see that there's some clean metal there!

I was gonna go for wire brush wheel to get what I can off then Deox-C, Electrox, stonechip then body colour.

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Posted 17th Jul 2019 at 12:35
Ben_W

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Registered: 01 Sep 2007

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Post #64
Give the Deox C a go but it might be awkward. The Hydrate 80 is very good.

________________________________________

Cherry Red Rallye .... On going OEM spec resto

China Blue GTi6 .... Daily driver

Silver Ph2 Xsara VTS

Posted 17th Jul 2019 at 12:38
S8-Tom

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Post #65
Well, got to this stage this afternoon.


Alternator, PAS pump + auxiliary idler & tensioner have been removed and just the bracket left to get off. Both idler and tensioner have seen better days with play in the bearing and scoring/general grot on the pulleys themselves.


As for the chassis leg, as expected really. Bit crusty but no holes. I'll wire brush and/or grind this back and tidy it up.




This made me laugh. There's not enough room to withdraw the top bolt on the alternator so there's a little cutout in the casting but even this isn't enough. You have to raise the engine and pull the bolt out through that hole just above where the head of the bolt is.

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Posted 18th Jul 2019 at 15:08
S8-Tom

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Post #66
Here's your Monday morning update LOL

Decided to loosen the crank bolt before removing the engine mounts. 6th gear, Mrs on the brakes and a small pry bar in the ring gear and a breaker bar saw it off with no drama. Was pleased to find a small access window in the bell housing to poke the pry bar through.

After that I got the massive cast PAS/alternator bracket off. Up to this point I'd managed without removing the inlet manifold but it had to come off to get a decent purchase on one of the bolts.
Here's where I got to with the mount off.


Next I got on with various wire wheels in my drill. I'd removed the PAS cooler pipe at this point too. Looking good although I need to get in where the coolant pipe passes through.


Slapped a bit of Deox gel over it all and left overnight under some cling film. Here it is next morning having done its thing.


This is how I left it yesterday. Looking a lot better I'm sure you'll agree?


Wheel arch side is much improved. I bent the bracket away from the body so I could get in behind it. There's still some work to do towards the front of the car as you can see from the orange coloured stuff in the picture.


The Deox gel has done a good job but I'm going to go for the Hydrate 80 option, as advised, as this'll be a much easier solution than continuing with the gel and the Hydrate 80 converter seems to be the right thing in this situation. I've placed an order for the Hydrate 80, along with some epoxy mastic, so hopefully continue this once it arrives.

Brackets etc. off to the powder coaters this afternoon and should be ready by the time I'm done with the corrosion removal.




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Posted 22nd Jul 2019 at 08:25
Ben_W

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Location: Lutterworth

Registered: 01 Sep 2007

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Post #67
Good man.

Good job on that lot.....the more I see this kind of thing, the more I'm glad I stripped mine and had it blasted.....


________________________________________

Cherry Red Rallye .... On going OEM spec resto

China Blue GTi6 .... Daily driver

Silver Ph2 Xsara VTS

Posted 22nd Jul 2019 at 08:49
S8-Tom

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Registered: 02 Feb 2018

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Post #68
Cheers.

Yeah, it's slow progress with wire brushes etc so blasting is definitely the way to go. I'll get my engine out at some point but hopefully what I'm doing will keep on top of things until that time comes.

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Posted 22nd Jul 2019 at 10:17
Ben_W

Formerly gpm

Location: Lutterworth

Registered: 01 Sep 2007

Posts: 2,915

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Post #69
S8-Tom wrote:
Cheers.

Yeah, it's slow progress with wire brushes etc so blasting is definitely the way to go. I'll get my engine out at some point but hopefully what I'm doing will keep on top of things until that time comes.



Yes, it should do. As long as the rust doesnt develop any more than surface rust, it's fine. Looks like.yiu caught it early enough.

Make sure you get all the factory stone chip stuff off....whilst it might look fine, what lurks beneath is another matter. This was around a stud in the front inner arch...









________________________________________

Cherry Red Rallye .... On going OEM spec resto

China Blue GTi6 .... Daily driver

Silver Ph2 Xsara VTS

Posted 22nd Jul 2019 at 11:33
S8-Tom

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Registered: 02 Feb 2018

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Post #70
My Bilt Hamber delivery arrived on Tuesday just as I was finishing off the last of the wire-wheeling, good timing! Following the instructions I applied the first coat of Hydrate 80 and the second, 20mins later, at 90degs to the first.

Here the chassis leg has had its first coat and then I've returned to do the engine mount cradle hence the colour difference.


This is how it looked after 24hrs. It dries surprisingly smooth.



First coat of Epoxy Mastic on this morning. I don't think it'll need the quoted 7hrs to cure, before the second coat, in this heat but it won't hurt to leave it that long (temps .might've cooled-down a bit by this evening as well).


I'm planning to paint the chassis leg in cherry red once it's all gone off and then reassemble everything. I might leave the engine mount cradle and get the finish a bit smoother before painting it red as this section is more visible.

Going back to my thoughts on the crank pulley, having now removed the lower timing cover I can see that the pulley has indeed slipped. I think, when I pinned it previously, the crank pin must've been sitting to the left of the hole on the block. Also, the cam locking doesn't seem as lined-up as it should be possibly as a result of the last belt being fitted with a slightly out pulley. We'll see if there's any noticeable performance difference once it's all back together...

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Posted 25th Jul 2019 at 11:11
Ben_W

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Post #71
Looking good bud. Hydrate 80 is very good. With the Mastic over the top, it won't rust again in a hurry. The only other tip I have is with the Epoxy Mastic (and the same for the Electrox primer really)

For sections that have a number of panel joints, I start off by mixing up a thinned down batch (use Xylene as per BH instructions). This helps it flow into the joints a little better.

________________________________________

Cherry Red Rallye .... On going OEM spec resto

China Blue GTi6 .... Daily driver

Silver Ph2 Xsara VTS

Posted 25th Jul 2019 at 15:46
S8-Tom

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Post #72
Really pleased with how the Hydrate 80 has gone on. The mastic, as you've highlighted in your project, doesn't leave a great finish with the brush. I did have better results with a 4" gloss roller but that doesn't get in to all of the corners and the roller itself started to disintegrate with the foam completely detaching from the plastic core!

On to the colour coat then...
I had intended to do this with a mini HVLP gun and my tiny 24L compressor so picked up this from the local paint supplier.


I've never painted with a gun before so I've no idea how to setup the gun with regard to pressure etc. I think that space will be too tight in places trying to paint the chassis leg so I've abandoned that idea.

This morning I've used up the remainder of a can of Halfords Cherry Red and it's gone on well and is easy to apply so I'm off out to collect a couple more in a minute. This is how it looks at present


Whilst waiting for the rain to stop so that I could look at painting the chassis leg I attached some of the brackets I've had powder coated.
Here's the box of freshly painted brackets


And here's a few in place. Lifting eye, side of cam carriers and one over the clutch release arm.


Rich_W has got a solid crank pulley for me and then I'll get on with replacing the timing belt, tensioners and water pump.


I've also picked up the auxiliary tensioner and idler. One box was Dayco and the other Gates, both contained INA stamped items.



Also collected a bunch of parts from the dealer yesterday. We've got PAS pump cover/trim, lower cooling hose clips, a couple of nuts to secure the upper timing cover and a replacement check-strap pin as the one I bought at the start of this project has dropped out somewhere.


And finally another inlet manifold gasket as I managed to tear the couple-months old one when taking the manifold off.

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Posted 27th Jul 2019 at 13:16
S8-Tom

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Post #73
Just as I'd finished posting the above I got a message from Rich_W to say my crank pulley was ready for me to collect so, after I collected my paint, I headed over and picked up the pulley.

I now had no excuses for putting off doing the timing belt so got down to business after applying a couple of layers of Cherry Red and letting that dry.
It all went pretty well to be honest, a couple of rotations via the crank pulley bolt and everything lined up so I cleaned and re-fitted the timing covers and replaced the securing bolts with stainless.

Something was nagging though. I'm fairly certain that the previous belt change had been done with a slightly slipped crank pulley and I think this resulted in the inlet cam being slightly retarded. Reading around the forum I came across this thread. Post 34 suggests that an advance in inlet timing would lead to a sluggish mid-range, something I'd experienced in driving this Rallye but had nothing to compare it to.

Getting to the point, when I removed the timing pins the one in the inlet cam was possibly at an angle and certainly didn't slide out like the exhaust cam and crank pulley.

Tonight I re-did it all... twice! It was a bugger to get the cam to stay put whilst undoing the bolt (and I did use the correct tool and didn't rely on the timing pins). Feeling better about the timing being correct now and I'm looking forward to seeing if there's any improvement in the mid-range.

Enough words, here's some pics of the alternator/PAS bracket back on with shiny new auxiliary tensioners


Alt & PAS pump back on and belt fitted


Cleaned coolant hose, new clips and painted chassis leg


Tomorrow evening I'll re-fit the inlet manifold and maybe get on to the rad ad refill the coolant although the weather's looking rubbish.

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Posted 29th Jul 2019 at 21:33
S8-Tom

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Post #74
edit: vids don't seem to work. They're on the FB page though.

Couple of weeks since an update so here goes.

Got everything back together but the belt was too tight. Too much fannying about with timing pins and obviously overcooked the tensioner! Doh Thumbs down


So, fourth attempt saw her good Thumbs up


She's been driven at 4K+ rpm and it's all still holding so I think we're good.

I've accumulated a few OE parts via eBay as they've become available for cheap but I think I'm going to just drive it and enjoy it for the rest of the summer. Beam refresh and corrosion removal/prevention to commence late October, maybe...

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Posted 16th Aug 2019 at 14:26
S8-Tom

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Post #75
Car's been going well since the belt change. Getting the timing correct has made a noticeable difference so I'm quite pleased with that.
I think I've got an earthing issue somewhere as the oil level gauge does a merry dance on start-up. I suspect it's where I've disturbed the alternator and starter wiring. I've got a DW starter motor to go on at some point so I'll have a look then.

Looking back at what I'd proposed to do at the start of this thread I've deviated somewhat but that's what happens when you fit in other jobs whilst accumulating funds/waiting on parts etc.
One of the things I'd listed as needed looking at was the suspension and specifically the rear beam

At the end of last week I received my replacement trailing arm shafts direct from the Peugeot Museum. I paid £155 for the pair delivered from France which is pretty good considering a UK dealer would want £150 for one!



I think I've stated elsewhere on the thread that I was hopeful that my trailing arm shafts might be in reasonable shape. That assumption was based on my axle having no play, moved reasonably well and was quiet(ish). The following goes to show that you have no idea what to expect until you've got an axle apart.




I'm reliably informed that that is just a pile of scrap!

I suspect the splits in the seals are to blame for the poor condition but the axle has clearly been in a bad way for a loooong time.



Thankfully I've got a spare axle that was going to go on whilst the original was refurbed. I'll be taking this apart and hopefully the tube will be usable.



This one's got 21mm torsion bars that will be up for sale if anyone's interested?




Currently got the torsion bars in the original beam soaking in PlusGas.



Seems to be doing its job as I keep topping it up and there's a load of it, and accompanying sludge, seeping out from the other end.




With any luck I'll have a usable tube off to the powder-coaters this week. Torsion bars will be out and trailing arms will be free of dead shafts and stub axles removed then I can start reassembly.



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Posted 16th Sep 2019 at 10:06

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1999 Peugeot 306 GTI6

  • 2000cc
  • Blue
  • 58 miles

£1,000

Location: Hampshire

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