Good Knowledge Martin thanks for sharing. Always wondered how you T'd into your system from the header tank.

Did you ever use your gp A front ARB btw the way? Would be interested in that if you wanted to sell - looking like I will ARB-less to begin with.

Would be interested as well

________________________________________

Rallye Race Car

I have a 205 header tank too, not quite finished the install yet, its just slung in there lol, you'll see the two adapters I used on my thread.

________________________________________

need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

OK update time; pressed pause for a week or so as I was away with work, but have got a day on it since and I certainly kept the postman busy whilst I was away.

So the shorter 205 rads seem to be a topic of conversation recently. Here's how I did mine. Remember the aim is to fit a maxi evo air box over the top, and I also wanted to fit a 19 row Mocal oil cooler.

My last update shows how I was measuring up for hoses and so on. I ended up doing a bit of U turn with the hoses vs fabrication on the radiator to keep costs down.

First up I took the rad to my alloy welding guy to have some brackets welded on. One per side, plus a little arm for the oil cooler mount.



He knows what he's doing! Was good to watch.



Not the best pic, but the side brackets were done as a little box shape, and fitted to the crossmember pillar with a rubber bobbin. The oil cooler was mounted with a two way bracket, using a Mocal bobbin - one bracket from the rad, and one from the back of the headlight panel.



Header tank courtesy of Merlin Motorsport (I think) - plenty similar about though.



I wanted to mount this somewhere on the bulkhead, ideally on the scuttle panel part with a nut and bolt, or if push came to shove on the bulkhead itself using a rivnut fitting. I was worried about drilling through the bulkhead with having an interior on the other side still intact, but as luck would have it I could just squeak it on the scuttle panel, and still have clearance under the bonnet.



All the way though mounting these things I was careful to use either a purpose made bobbin or make my own with hose material so there's some isolation from the bumps and vibration.



On to the hoses. Both the main hoses were 38 to 32mm reducers. A 90deg for the top, and a 45deg for the bottom.









As you can see I already had Spoox hoses fitted, so I made the most of those and just trimmed everything to fit, and with a few alloy hose joiners and some stainless jubilee clips I was sorted.

I tee'd the header tank into the heater matrix feed using a nylon y pipe, and rather flukily a left over Cossie Roose motorsport hose with just the right sequence of bends and diameter changes.





Here I have cut the rear-most matrix hose. I replaced the last bit of hose which mates with the steel pipe, with part of the Roose hose but only because the condition of the original wasn't great - got lucky with the diameter change to mate with the Y pipe. And the Roose hose also donated a perfect bend to the header feed.

I just need to plumb the overflow return to the rad to finish. So all in all, a few bits and bobs and a bit of fab needed to adapt the 205 rads, and inevitably the costs rise accordingly. Still cheaper than custom rad options and a bit of fun along the way.

As you will have seen I did the whole rust-proofing business on the front crossmember, then painted the top coats, so that's all good. I've also put the whole front subframe assembly on the other week.

It was half built up, so pretty weighty. I wasn't about to lie on the ground and lift it up. The jack came in handy and it all went surprisingly smoothly.



Finally got to use my lovely brand new subframe mounts!



Fully home. Driveshafts in, just need to centre the rack and the steering wheel and connect the steering column coupling. Tidied up the arch paintwork etc also.



Here you can see the driveshaft extensions spliced in. If I've got my maths right (correct length) I'll follow up with some proper custom shafts, as I don't think extensions like this are a long term solution.

Uprights loosely bolted in place with steering rack extensions. Using OEM TRE's, and don't forget these are GTI6 track rod arms instead of the shorter VTS ones.

If I get the chance in the coming days I'll build up my front coilovers and fit them, and build up my front brake bells and rotors. Also I'm hoping my new oil cooler hoses and fittings will arrive so I can finish my cooler. Hoses and fittings for the PAS lines are also on their way, and if I can track down some bits I've put "somewhere safe" I have half a chance of doing those too. (Proving elusive tho!)

It's getting there, and for sure the temptation will be to stick some wheels on and lower it down, but I've still to finish brake lines, front bodywork, so I'll leave it in hover mode for now.

Cheers
Iain

I’m not sure if everyone’s aware or maybe they are Iain ?....Carl uses the same fully Alloy 6 (Ebay) Rad as me with Longman inlet which has a expansion tank built in plus is only a little lower than the 6 one

You don’t need a superlow 205 Rad to fit a Maxi Airbox ....you need to cut out the slam panel plus ....Use the correct length
Jenvey or Omex with the correct length inlet with correct curve

I had to sell my Maxi Airbox to Carl only because my one off Satchel inlet is almost straight / no way of fitting it

PS ...It’s looking Amazing Iain

Iain,

Forgive my late reply, I don't look on here as much as I used to.

But the Dimma is waiting on a lot of custom items for the engine, mainly the inlet manifold and to modify the exhaust manifold because I wasn't happy with how the turbo and wastegste sat, then after that I've got to figure out how my clutch will work, get an intercooler, rad and pipes made up, fit and map the ecu, strip and rebuild the car again haha

I just wish it was sat in my garage so I could work on it, it's all out of my hands at the moment 😞

________________________________________

Dimma + Gt35 turbo =
Solid rear beam mounts £130
07889376885
Dan

100% agree plus same here ....but my Loves back again ....but skint

ooh respray colour... that's a tough one to wrestle with.
I wanted to go white for the rally influence, but was a big fan of the french blue you see on Fiat Pandas, and also a mid-grey colour.
Then again, that'll be even more weeks away out of sight - but at least it'll be worth looking at when it returns

Had a bit of time on the car today. My Speedflow stuff arrived. Looks good - checked out a few fittings and I think I've got all the right ones.





Finally tracked down my PAS fitting. My weld on boss looks like it will fit all right, so will get that tigged on rather than mig it myself.



Thought I'd take a look and see how the air filter might fit. The filter isn't far out - need to trim the recess in the air box a fraction to make it fit properly.



Offered up the air box in roughly the right position, and I wouldn't want my rad to be much bigger I think!



Might even need to trim the edge of my oil cooler a bit!



I had the time to build up my coilovers today as well, then suddenly this happened..





Very loosely fitted right now as I don't have any reference points on the front end to know whether I've got this in the ball park yet. Seems 'girthy' enough right now though! Got the other side on as well, but it's a cheap win really. Still need to bolt together my rotors properly and callipers, brake hoses etc.

Best not think about it as the list is getting longer each day. Cross one off, add two. You know how it goes..

Cheers
Iain

That's what that air box is Dan.
Not the most accurately built thing though, but fit for purpose.
I do see that the exact dimensions/angles of the inlets & TB's will certainly influence what clearance looks like though.
There's no way it's compatible with a 306 rad tho. The rad definitely needs to be lower to some extent.

My Rad sits lower plus is 3inches lower than a stnd 6 rad ...The front of the curved lip of the Airbox is designed to sit plus nearly touch the Rad ...if it’s out to far the airbox is at its thickest so that’s why people are using 205 type rads ...you need short Jenveys like Mei / me Have plus a correct length Inlet with correct curve ...from looking at Iain’s Picture if temp fitting it ...it’s designed to go back towards the engine by 3inches ...I don’t think Iain can because his TBs are to long ?

Basically the slightly narrowest part of the Airbox is by the filter underneath / that should be back more / not sticking out so far ..your TBs will probably restrict this as they are standard length


PS ...beware Maxi Air Boxes increase Induction noise substantially / some tracks you won’t get away with it on drive bus ...speak to Carl about this two people I know had issues

oh yes, definitely not a quieter option - we have a carbon CSL air box on my wife's M3 and that was done deliberately to liberate some induction noise (among other things).

Until I get the back panel of air box on, I won't know for sure how far it'll all stick out or fit. Until I fit this I won't know with the back of the rear part of the box sitting on the inlet how far the front will go. My pic is based on a rough measurement I took just to have a look.

If you look at some of the below, I would say mine won't be further than these;

Cheers mate

Mean't to add yesterday, when I fitted everything up on the wishbones, uprights etc, I have good tire to coilover clearance, and good clearance from brake disc to ball joint (or bearing in my case). It is odd that Oli for example had a right trauma with coilover clearance with his, but i have no issues. I'm sure there still a few speed bumps ahead tho, these things seldom come together straight away.

Touchdown!

Not a lot to report other than I did a bit more this afternoon, then thought what the hell, I'll put it back down on the floor for s**ts and giggles..









Unfortunately though, whilst this will be no stanced show queen, the back end is a little high still - and this is with a spare gearbox in the boot as well:





[url=https://flic.kr/p/BW2RDb]
[/url]

What you can also see is a 50-60mm difference in track width at the moment also. The front being a fair bit wider. I know I'll need a spacer of some sort to bring the back out a bit, but I don't know precisely by how much at this point.

Obviously I can wind the front width in and out to my hearts content with the adjustable wishbones, but at the moment I am lacking any reference points to put the wheels in the right place. I've centred the rack for now.

I also realised straight away I've set the front too low, which will also have a bearing on how the back will sit when it's sorted, although I guess the rear will still need lowering. My wishbones are below parallel right now.

I used the 185-285 dual rate springs, but the first section is fairly compressed already. I also had some 220-320lb springs made up, so I will swap to them straight away, and wind the collars up the damper tube a bit to lift the front up something like 10-15mm.

I get the feeling I'll be regularly pulling all these bits apart and putting them back together again for some time. It'll be back on the chassis stands in no time!

Overall, still loads to do. Putting it down on it's wheels felt like a cheap win, but actually it's turned into a fairly useful exercise. When Dave's sorted the front wings, I'll immediately have a visual reference for ride height, track width, camber and castor. I'm also going to refer back to the gpA build sheets for the set up info and see how I compare.

Cheers for now
Iain