displaying posts 1 to 8 of 8

Author Subject: Shake / Judder / Wobble - TPS Sensor
justsamo

Junior User

Location: Plymouth

Registered: 07 Oct 2014

Posts: 61

Status: Offline

Post #1
Hello all,
Please excuse the subject title, I just thought that this would help people to find the answer I was looking for based on my searches.
Basically my 6 had been suffering from a wobble / shake / judder at 1.5k to 2k revs when just coasting - car did it for ages.
Changed the mounts, clutch and all parts included, filters and sparks numerous times.
I've been taking out the sensors one by one, finally found it was the Throttle Position Sensor on the manifold, just unplugged it and it was like a different car!
Just hoping my experiences may help someone out there, sure wish I'd done that a long time ago!
Obviously going to replace it but can't find a reasonably priced replacement, any suggestions would be great, I've seen ones for s16s for as little as a tenner? Cheers.
Posted 14th Mar 2017 at 20:17
mik

Seasoned Pro

Location: Kent

Registered: 17 Feb 2011

Posts: 2,100

Status: Offline

Post #2
Great tip, thanks!

________________________________________

Cherry Rallye SOLD

Posted 15th Mar 2017 at 04:52
justsamo

Junior User

Location: Plymouth

Registered: 07 Oct 2014

Posts: 61

Status: Offline

Post #3
Was thinking of this one on eBay, item number 252248988637. Seems to match part number 1628?
Posted 15th Mar 2017 at 22:10
veka_gti-6

Newbie

Location: Ostrava

Registered: 26 Dec 2010

Posts: 25

Status: Offline

Post #4
Perfect tip, also would be fine if you'll try the cheap one version from Ebay. It looks cheap compared to standard one. I've got the same issue...
Posted 16th Mar 2017 at 13:12
aircool

Newbie

Location: Near Exeter

Registered: 11 Apr 2016

Posts: 27

Status: Offline

Post #5
Had something similar, intermittent jolting on part throttle at around 2-3k rpm. Also had very harsh engine braking or delayed engine braking (i.e. lift off and few moments later it engine brake more).

Disconnected my TPS and its much smoother drive, but like you they are expensive and trying to source reasonably priced ones.

I actually tested mine and got the following values:

Supply: 4.98v
Closed: 0.439v
WOT: 3.66v (Should be 5v).

Got a second had unit that I will test later!
Posted 17th Mar 2017 at 09:07
miki4

Regular

Location: Cologne

Registered: 09 Nov 2015

Posts: 389

Status: Offline

Post #6
That additional engine breaking after a few moments is caused by the injectors stopping the fuelling on overrun (when lifting off with engine RPM over 1800) and restoring when getting under about 1300 /min. If the transition between both states is harsh, there can be more than one cause that add up.

First thing to do would be an ECU reset. Ensure your TPS is connected before doing that. On the first miles after that the transition will be harsh as the ECU is learning the different states in every gear. Try to drive normally during this time and go through every gear accelerating, decelerating, coasting.

Probably it won't cure the problem but you should eliminate that possibility. Next check for air leaks. If you got an slight air leak somewhere, the MAP sensor senses this and adapts the amount of fuel being injected. In that case more fuel = more power output on closed throttle just before the fuel cut-off sets in. -> Transition between both states more harsh than with no air leaks.

After that I would replace the TPS and do another ECU reset, so it can adapt to the new TPS. If you drive without the TPS connected, there will always be a harsh transisition to fuel-cutoff and driveability suffers.

Other things to check: engine/gearbox mounts worn? MAP sensor could be clogged up, clean it up. MAP sensor and/ or O2 sensor could be on their way out.

It is also important that the ECU gets vehicle speed information. If your speedo works, then your vehicle speed sensor is okay and the ECU should get that info (if the speedo gets its information from the ECU and not directly from VSS but I don't if it works this way and if it differs on the phase 1/2/3). If you unplug your VSS you will notice, that there will also be harsh engine breaking. That's because the ECU things the car is standing still and doesn't need to "hold revs" for smooth gear changes and smooth transition between acceleration and overrun. You can verify that if you rev the engine standing still and just pushing in the clutch when changing gears. The revs will drop faster when the car doesn't move.
Posted 17th Mar 2017 at 15:25
justsamo

Junior User

Location: Plymouth

Registered: 07 Oct 2014

Posts: 61

Status: Offline

Post #7
Thanks Miki4, in addition to the above. Does anyone know what the throttle body heater is supposed to do other than the obvious? Is it necessary? Cheers.
Posted 20th Mar 2017 at 00:28
stan_306gti6 Forum Admin

Location: Kent

Registered: 18 Jan 2004

Posts: 21,768

Status: Offline

Post #8
justsamo wrote:
Thanks Miki4, in addition to the above. Does anyone know what the throttle body heater is supposed to do other than the obvious? Is it necessary? Cheers.


Had mine disconnected for years when the car was standard, no issues at all. Have removed it completely on my supercharged setup. It is worth noting though that my car was always dry stored over winter, so maybe the heater is required if cold starting during cold winters.

________________________________________

"Supercharged - 454.1bhp/317.5lb/ft"
Peugeot 306 GTi-6
2000 (X), Moonstone Love
Posted 20th Mar 2017 at 08:12

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