Basically iv got my hands on some rear Nitron dampers.

I'll start off by saying that i don't have a clue what car they are designed for or what car they came off.

To cut a long story short they need servicing....
As I have no idea what they are from I wanted them to be serviced and revalved for my car, I phoned Nitron and had a chat with them but to cut a long story short they will service them and revalve them but "i" or someone that is clued up more than me has to do the leg work/maths to work out what I want them valved too.

Iv read a few articles on dampers but it's well over my head....

These are the dampers


And this is the equation that I don't understand....


Can anyone help me out please?

Nope and not a clue lol

What info do I need to know to be able to give you the answer to what values I want to achieve.

This is all new to me, willing to learn by all means

That equation alone won't tell you what the ideal damping rates for a 306 will be, to put it simply it is just calculating the damping rate of a damper if you know the properties of it.

If you do want to run them on your 306 you could:
-Note down the brand and model of your front dampers
-Find out what rear dampers are matched to them if you bought all four corners
-Get the values for these dampers and have the nitron ones re-valved to suit

This would make them work ok I guess, but this does seem like a pointless exercise. Why go to all the trouble and expense when there are rear dampers designed for a 306 available? What gain in performance are you hoping for over a damper designed to fit a 306?

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61k miles Ph.1 Diablo '6 Project Thread

don't forget that the damper rate is roughly 2.5-1 on the rear so the dampers need to be 2.5× the wheel rate.

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Bring on the Trumpets.

No doubt about it they need a service as one of them just compresses and extends with next to no force so I would imagine the seal has gone.

My current spec, most of which is irrelevant I guess but here goes.

Front
Mc phearson top mount adaptors to push the standard 306 top mounts outboard (will be replaced with Bridgecraft top mount in the near future)
BC custom ultra low kit which are duel purch coilovers
5kg/mm 160mm spring, also have 7kg/mm 160mm springs.
Dampers valved to work with both spring rates.
Bridgecraft -2 degrees hubs
Dimma wide track wishbones
In the near future once iv fitted the top mounts etc I'll be getting Bridgecraft to sort my roll centre and bump steer.
Standard front arb with Phillip m drop links

Rear
22mm tb
30mm ARB
Bridgecraft wide track 40mm each side
Bridgecraft -3 degrees trailing arms
BC dampers matched to the fronts spec
Baker bm solid mounts (hopefully I'll get Bridgecraft to make me some stubby ones to increase damper length)

18x8 revolution millenium wheels with 225 40 18

I'll contact BC and see what they valved the fronts and rears too

Why not speak to John at Black Art as he is able to re-build most dampers?

When he made my rear dampers – we dynoed Bilstein B46-2313 to get a baseline. Once I explained to him what I wanted to change in terms of car behaviour – he worked out the shim stacks etc.

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Cherry Red Rallye Project thread
WhiteBMW M140i

EFA

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How to do a clicky: [url =http://www.306gti6.com]click here[/url] remove the space between [url & =

The trouble is two dampers with the same settings on a dyno will perform differently on the car anyway, so without finding someone that's worked with those dampers to start with and knows their characteristics we could only ever give you a ballpark to start tuning from - hence the figures above, which should be close enough to work from.
Nitrons generally are pretty easy to service, but I've only ever done bike sets and one set with remotes, which aren't likely to be the same architecture in terms of pistons, etc.

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Way more in depth than what I imagined....

Weight on the back end, torsion bars thickness/spring rate job done lol

I just need to make sure these dampers are worth all the hassle.
What are they realistically worth once set up for a 306?
Will I end up spending more than they are worth?
Will it be better for me to just put the money towards some dampers designed for a 306?

A rebuild to your spec shouldn't run you more than £100/corner I would have thought, and so as they're decent units you should still be in front?
The thing is, if they don't behave as you want subsequently you should get used to the idea that you might have them rebuilt to different specs several times over this summer as you play with the specs.
You're paying for the fine tuning of performance rather than the actual material value that you end up with.