bit of an update

front end is 'almost' sorted (more on that in a muinite)

i have a good rear beam ready to go on hopefully saturday

anyway my question where can i get a new driveshaft oilseal (driver side) i deffinatly damadged the old one on ebay there only apperes to be two would rarther only buy the one for a cheaper price if i can

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1976 Reliant Kitten
1985 Reliant Fox Tandy campervan
1998 GTI-6
1993 Citroen XM sei V6 (barn find)

hi sageman. i see you're another norwich member. if i woudve seen this earlier i had a spare set of front shocks you couldve had. if you need any parts in the future ryan in thetford holds tonnes of spares for these cars.

Ive done exactly the same as you! Befote, it was at this point I learned to bleed breaks

The piston will just push back in and will probably need help from a piston tool!
Those kits are s**te from what i read ill list everything you need ill do this tonight for you

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Proud Member of the ASTOR Owners Club

ok 1st then,..
get that piston back in use one of these,..

Piston Tool this is what I use the only down side is that the head is much smaller than our hollow piston so use an old brake pad etc to put between the piston and the head
(reseat the rubber seals in the caliper if needed!)

next the parts you'll need for the brake lines

you'll need a 2 way female connector plus 2 male connectors

this is in conjunction with MOT regulations!
so cut the brake line back far enough to incorporate this
you'll need another male nut to screw into the caliper
these are pennies from any motor factor and not a specialist part!

3/16th Copper brake line!
Copper Brake line
this is the cheapest on ebay just 1m but for such a small job you wont need much!

Pipe cutter
this'll do the trick Sealey so shouldn't be a problem

Brake line flaring tool
I use a Sealey SPT11

which after lots of research found to be the best one to suit the needs of brake flaring whilst on the car
and giving a good flair on steel lines!
but when I bought mine I got it for about £50 now their between £70-£110
I've found you this one which looks identical and can't see why this wouldn't work just as well just try to make sure you keep the part of the line thats being gripped free from brake fluid or it wont grip to be able to flair and will just push it backwards

I wouldnt bother with a pipe bending tool the tightest radius on those tools isnt enough just gently massage the pipe into shape being careful not to put any harsh kinks in it!

then once you'd sorted all that you need a Brake Bleeding kit you'll also just need a tire with no more than 20psi in this way pushes air into the bottle which forces the brake fluid into the tank and down the lines pushing out any air in the system!

make sure you have an 11mm ring spanner for the front bleed nipples and 8mm for the rears
don't use a normal spanner that will only grip 2 sides of the bleed nipples these are hollow and chances are they'll split and snap a ring spanner will pull on all sides!
might be worth spraying some penetrating fluid/wd40 on them to help free them up!
trust me you don't want these to snap off!!

you'll have to bleed all the brakes starting with the caliper furthest away from the expansion tank!!!

I hope this is everything but feel free to message me!
it's a shame your not closer i'd have popped over with my things and helped you out!

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Proud Member of the ASTOR Owners Club

sounds like you half know what your doing then! get it all ordered and get to it!

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Proud Member of the ASTOR Owners Club

Alright wind your neck back in!

didnt realise i was looking at the rear caliper,...
Didnt studdy the pic yeah the rears just wind in!
You can easily fabricate your own piece of line for the rear caliper though no need to have someone make it for you!
A pipe wrench will grip those nuts it'll make a mess of it but will grip the other end to free it because im doubtfull an 11mm flaired spanner will undo it!

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Proud Member of the ASTOR Owners Club

right so ive found someone who can make me some pipes up he sugested to just take both front to back pipes off what im asking is is that a good idea or will i ruin the connectors on the passenger bulkhead doing that

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1976 Reliant Kitten
1985 Reliant Fox Tandy campervan
1998 GTI-6
1993 Citroen XM sei V6 (barn find)

no i had to cut one side as the nut toatally rounded off before the flexi and the other side the nut is all but rounded off

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1976 Reliant Kitten
1985 Reliant Fox Tandy campervan
1998 GTI-6
1993 Citroen XM sei V6 (barn find)

I have no load compensater

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1976 Reliant Kitten
1985 Reliant Fox Tandy campervan
1998 GTI-6
1993 Citroen XM sei V6 (barn find)

On mine I had the lines from calipers to the flexi there is a steel plate type thing between the solid and the flexi then again between the flexi and the pipe running all the way to the front these plate type things were attached to the rear beam

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1976 Reliant Kitten
1985 Reliant Fox Tandy campervan
1998 GTI-6
1993 Citroen XM sei V6 (barn find)

Only way I could see was by unscrewing hence I've got these problems

So the connectors at the front below the battery at the bulkhead are they differant/stronger than the others can i take these off without damage

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1976 Reliant Kitten
1985 Reliant Fox Tandy campervan
1998 GTI-6
1993 Citroen XM sei V6 (barn find)

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need a part number? get on here - http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com

Bring on the Trumpets.

You mean you cannot undo the nut that fixes the droplink to the damper? Just grind the nut off, not the whole mount on the damper.

BTW looks like he's cutting a sixth finger off in the picture