Hi all,

I'm going to fit an exhaust and inlet manifold with new studs and nuts. Autodata says 35 Nm torque for exhaust manifold and 20 Nm for inlet manifold.

Do you screw the studs in by hand and then just fit the manifold and torque the nuts to the specific torque figure? Or should I screw the studs in with a counternut first to - let's say +8 Nm of the given torque figure and then put on the manifold and torque down the nuts? Latter way would probably avoid the studs coming out before the nuts loosen next time the manifold will be removed. Or will I strip the threads?

Is it advisable to use copper grease on the threads that go into the head?

Regards
Michael

If it's a non moving part, as it is in this case just do it reasonably tight. I only torque stuff that really requires a specific torque, oh and wheel nuts. Manifold will be fine to just tighten. Be sure you use the correct type of studs though or you'll crack the manifold over time due to stress.

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Okay, thanks for the answers. Usually on non vital parts I do it that way too but seeing pics of cracked exhaust manifolds I thought I would just use a torque wrench for peace of mind. Since some of them nuts are only reachable with a spanner I won't be able to use a torque wrench on them anyway. Will do it with a good portion of sensitiveness.

What do you think about copper grease? Any negative aspects? I want to use it on the nuts' threads and potentially on the whole studs to prevent corrosion. Is it good for the aluminum head? I ordered some original studs and nuts from Peugeot btw.

The standard copper nuts tend to 'lock' on to the threads of the stud anyway as the internal thread of the nuts are not totally round, but more like rugby ball shaped, so they shouldn't undo of their own accord when you've done them up.

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Wouldn't destroy you for that mate.... I've worked with a guy who was obsessed with using a torque wrench on pretty much everything.... even bloody sump plugs etc. Waste of time if you don't know when tight is tight shouldn't be working on cars.

I usually use torque wrist lol my own feel for when things are tight enough unless it's something that needs to be FT or for things like bearing caps cam carriers head bolts etc obviously they require precuse torque. Also anything with stretch bolts (like everything Inside the rocker cover on my leon) needs torquing correctly too then angle torque after.

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