Exactly, everyone who pays out for all the gear to do it properly wants the most power possible. I'm going against the grain but I'm of the opinion that anything more than 300 in a front drive is a bit of a waste of money unless you have everything else upgraded to match. And how often is 300 BHP going to feel like it's not enough in a 1,300kg car?

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R H Davey Welding Supplies. I sell new and used welding equipment in the Hampshire area. I take on welding jobs in the evenings, ally casting repairs are one of my specialities but I can weld pretty much anything. PM me with your requirements.

Some of my services: (See my for sale threads)
Engine mount/chassis repair
Solid Beam Mounts BACK IN PRODUCTION
Harness bars

Probably about the same amount of times 370bhp is required in a 800kg car on mud terrain tyres...

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- Bespoke rollcages/additions/adjustments. Half cages right up to complete custom spaceframes - MSA/FIA spec, CDS, ROPT, T45, etc - PM me
Email me!
Custom-made polybushes available - need an odd size or fitment? - anything from batch work to one-off pieces.

Don't think its as easy as just mapping though is it? Isn't the boost available controlled by the restrictor ring?

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China D Turbo HDi daily charger
Black Rallye occassional toy

Couldn't you use some form of boost controller, like an adjustable pressure regulator, to maintain a certain boost pressure? Could be an adjustable spring loaded traditional regulator, or even some sort of stepper motor that uses PWM to operate. Could even use it like traction control to allow more or less boost depending on steering angle, with a smart enough ecu. I might be getting a bit carried away though.

You can have different maps within reason by adjusting the advance timing but not sure it would cope with massive variations in boost.

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Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 1
Oulton Park in a BTCC 306 vid 2
Lap of the 'ring

I think what we are all saying is yes the std engine would take more than low boost. BUT would it last and be reliable..........?
No is the answer.
I believe this is why rich and wayne designed and capped the performance of the lb on std internals.
Rich made the conversion to still be daily drivable and reliable. After all, you don't want to sell something that's going to kill everyone's engines otherwise you will be out of business very quickly.

Yes everyone on low boost has thought about pulling out or opening up the restricter ring but ultimately, it wont last long.

To make a mid boost engine, it would need to be rebuilt with stronger internals etc etc and by the time this has been done you are in high boost territory as i said above.

So it would be up to the individual owner to make the choice. Do i want drive ability or high figures.

Those of you who do track day/hill climb events that are chasing the best times, the old age proven method on weight loss/ better handling and small power gains is the best thing you can do.

But for those of you that want straight line speed/pub talk figures or are able to change a gearbox after every drive, then high boost is the one.

I only went high boost because the bits came up at good prices and i had blown my standard engine. Its natural progression to want to go to the next level. Plus its easy as rich had developed everything for us but to build a med boost, you would need to fund the r&d to get it there.

Thats not to say the guys with super high boost can't drive their cars fast.

I f**king love my high boost dont get me wrong, but my lack of actual track/hill climb experience/ability wont be helped by my extra power.

Unless i catch you on the straights, then your f**ked

*** Cheeky edit***
Or ross, olly or stan decide to come out, then i'm f**ked to.

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***Breaking*** Ph3 Silver GTI 6 High Boost

At the moment mine is not all useable power a stripped lowboost has been proved by cosmic spanner I'm very impressed by his! When I get the sequential I'm looking at (thanks Damien ) my car will be able to be driven hard without fear of breaking the gears. Manthos stick with low boost till you're sure of what you want? If you spend the money spend it on a lsd sticky tyres and keep getting faster then when you're able to drive it flat out then think of upping the power

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Super high boost Completed, destroyer of gearboxes and 160mph club

I've run r888s and am on r888r there fine for anything other than standing water/ heavy rain. You won't regret going high boost someday but until you're 100% confident with low boost you'll be fine going high boost. I'd confidently say I could drive my well sorted standard engine Rallye far faster then my high boost unless it was straight roads then not a lot will compete. Enjoy it mate is a great little car have fun 👍

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Super high boost Completed, destroyer of gearboxes and 160mph club

If you want a fit & forget tyre best all round daily drive then Mich 3....

But if you want a better Trackday tyre/ road tyre ....I think I've used most decent Trackday / road legal just tyres & I would personally say Dunlop DZO3Gs are no1 stiff side walls & they last the longest ...
I've been trying Toyo R888Rs new ones & they are better all round but not a patch on DZO3GS on track ...
I'm sure I've converted DemondriverDan & Rallyash who will agree
They are cheaper than Toyos also ....
Not to bad in the damp /wet but you don't want to use them in standing water / heavy rain ...

PS ....I went to look at a 280bhp at the flywheel N/A Top top end 306 gti6 Sandy Brown engine on Jenvey 48s for a friend on here yesterday as the car was / engine was 3miles from my house & all I could say was WOW ....but he told me anything he's raced with more power struggles to get it down on N/A engines...so I can't see it being anything difference all round for SC ?
He even said his beats the s**t out of him when on full chat ...what a car though ....only problem is it's so tuned it needs lots of TLC ...
But wish I had the double figure numbers to buy it

That's the one Mei

But the engines changed & now isn't a 1800 it's a full blown top spec £14k Sandy engine unused apart from dyno both since rebuild from Sandy not mapped or used in the car

Has Satchel rear beam with Coilovers not 106 type

Not really Ross ...unless your racing it flat out every weekend ....I recon if I had the cash & the 6-8 good track days a year I want to do it would need looking at every 36months so 18-24 outings to keep it in tip top condition

Not to bad really ?
It's a firebreather / monster Engine with amazing spec

Problem is I've no trailer & have to drive my car to & from tracks

That's it Mei ...looks amazing
I was told just the rear end suspension would cost £2500k if you wanted the same ?
Colin's not taking any work on for the next 12months even if you wanted one ?

Just how good was that Dixon Car Mei ?

It looks like it's had loads of Development one off things done ?