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Author Subject: Wilwood Brackets group buy?
manthos

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Post #251
they stop my supercharged bloody well

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Posted 11th Nov 2016 at 09:10
gnrlee Forum Admin

Location: Leeds

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Post #252
fatlapit wrote:
Too bloody small if youve got a fast car anyway........just saying


These are for my Astor! I want to put the Lions back on from time to time so need bigger brakes over standard to stop Laugh my ass off

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Posted 11th Nov 2016 at 10:47
prism7guy

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Post #253
gnrlee wrote:
fatlapit wrote:
Too bloody small if youve got a fast car anyway........just saying


These are for my Astor! I want to put the Lions back on from time to time so need bigger brakes over standard to stop Laugh my ass off


You need a parachute or an anchor for them things Laugh

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Posted 11th Nov 2016 at 12:20
roland rat

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Post #254
manthos wrote:
they stop my supercharged bloody well


Chris said a quick car Laugh my ass off
Posted 11th Nov 2016 at 12:28
welshpug!

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Post #255
Laugh my ass off

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Posted 11th Nov 2016 at 12:29
russbez

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Post #256
manthos wrote:
they stop my supercharged bloody well


+1 here too

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Posted 11th Nov 2016 at 13:03
phillipm

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Post #257
fatlapit wrote:
Too bloody small if youve got a fast car anyway........just saying


The reason there's so much scallop on my caliper brackets is that they were actually designed so they will take the bigger Wilwoods too, same as we used on the 4wd buggies at the time - although obviously they won't go under 15's. They'll also take Hispec's (which I had handy off the buggy)
I'll get a pic later.

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Posted 11th Nov 2016 at 15:12
armzsc6

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Post #258
Silly question.... Can't you just make them out of steel and more blocky shape so they will be stronger.... heavier I know and no one likes unsprung weight but if it's safer then I don't see why not.... standard brackets on Cupra R brembos on my leon are just some steel loop

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Posted 11th Nov 2016 at 21:43
phillipm

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Post #259
The original brackets are more than strong enough, the reason being by the time you make it thick enough to get plenty of thread in the caliper body where the caliper attaches, and enough thickness under the bolts to the hub to use the original bolts, then bracket itself ends up much stronger than it actually needs to be.
You could make it half the weight if you were happy spending a bit more design/machining time on it, I just shed as much weight as I could from the original Welly bracket whilst staying with a 2-op process to keep the machining time/costs down, whilst keeping the stiffness up (actually it's slightly stiffer than the heavier/bulkier Welly original).

If you look at the FEA of the bracket the only part that has heavy loading to the point where it starts to be a concern later on in the lifecycle is those first couple of threads where it bolts up (A short steel bolt into soft aluminium means much of the stretch is is in the initial threads so that's where the loading is concentrated, it doesn't get spread down the thread length very well).
The strength is no issue initially - you could snap the caliper bolt on a new bracket before damaging the thread - but as the bracket gets older the aluminium looses significant strength as it fatigues, and obviously it fatigues much faster where the loading is concentrated around sharp edges of the thread - for all this talk of things being strong enough, you don't design an aluminium structure around the initial material strength, you design it around expected fatigue cycles over it's lifetime, because aluminium will fatigue under any loading, unlike steel (if you check the original threads there's some mention of this when Midlife was asking about similar things).

That's why I went with forming rather than cutting those threads, because not only does forming give a stronger thread from working hardening the surface - so the effective loading reduces slightly - the imparted compression stresses in the root of the thread and the grain structure following the thread rather than being cut through give large increases in fatigue resistance themselves.
Basically they lose much less strength as they age than cut threads do, and the effect is only exaggerated as the temperature is increased, and give it's nature it gets some temperature cycles, obviously.
The threads could have been helicoiled for the same effect, but forming the thread alleviated the issue easily and doesn't give anyone issues with anodising as some of you had done later on.
I could have just popped a nut on the back but I prefer a little engineering finesse!

Anyway, I put a lot of work into making sure the brackets were lighter and safe - I wouldn't have sold them without being 100% certain that they'd be fine even with the most hamfisted fitter Razz
So yes, I get a bit annoyed when someone makes a straight copy of it after I did all the work and then neglects the only important bit, and then starts mouthing off after I tell them how to fix it. It's not hard to see that they are formed, any engineer worth his salt only has to glance at the thread and they could tell you.



Sorry about the wall of text, but the TL DR is - there's a lot of work in that 'simple bracket'

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Posted 11th Nov 2016 at 23:25
aaron6

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Post #260
Yep. It's easy to tell how threads are manufactured. But the machine shop probably taps all of its holes in much the same way ours do. My tight arse bosses would never invest in stuff they didn't have too. Only thread I ever roll is an M8 in stainless box after being hot drilled. Works bloody well though.

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Posted 11th Nov 2016 at 23:54
manthos

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Post #261
Look great anodised! I will fit mine to my car before I post them out just to make 100% sure they fit





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Posted 23rd Nov 2016 at 07:58
gnrlee Forum Admin

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Post #262
Thumbs up

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Posted 23rd Nov 2016 at 09:00
bigbadbowen

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Post #263
Great now does anyone want to buy mine as I now have no need for mine

Posted 23rd Nov 2016 at 11:54
gnrlee Forum Admin

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Post #264
One of these days you'll buy something and actually use it! LOL

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Posted 23rd Nov 2016 at 20:16
Day666

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Post #265
bigbadbowen wrote:
Great now does anyone want to buy mine as I now have no need for mine



Chris did you sell everything to Mr Prebble by any chance ?
What's going on m8 ?
Posted 23rd Nov 2016 at 20:42
bigbadbowen

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Post #266
Yes I sure did he came saw and took it all away bud - I've moved over to the dark side or Renault sport
Posted 26th Nov 2016 at 07:45
bigbadbowen

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Post #267
So just out of interest where do we get these callipers from as I can't seem to find the ones stated earlier in the thread ?
Posted 24th Dec 2016 at 09:40
Day666

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Post #268
bigbadbowen wrote:
So just out of interest where do we get these callipers from as I can't seem to find the ones stated earlier in the thread ?


What do you need them for now ?......not bought another car Thumbs up
Posted 24th Dec 2016 at 11:55
welshpug!

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Location: Bigend, Wales.

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Post #269
Rally Design stock wilwood.

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Posted 24th Dec 2016 at 12:22
bigbadbowen

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Post #270
People asking what callipers they need if they buy them and I can't see them listed anywhere
Posted 24th Dec 2016 at 12:51
welshpug!

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Post #271
http://bfy.tw/9778

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Posted 24th Dec 2016 at 13:18
manthos

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Post #272
exactly the ones that welshpug has put a link too. wilwood midilite 4 pots. Rallye design stock them

they were £135 per caliper on offer for a few months before they have gone up a bit now

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Posted 24th Dec 2016 at 13:39
bigbadbowen

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Post #273
manthos wrote:
midilite CR-120-7381

I have spoken to a supplier today about a group buy on the calipers.


This calliper I'd not listed dude ?
Posted 24th Dec 2016 at 18:07
jorg

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Registered: 10 Jun 2007

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Post #274
on the rally design website it would be the top one i would of thought

1.75" 44.5mm 1.00" 25.4mm Z-120-7545

edit: just searched google with that caliper code and it came up with this: http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=89447&page=4

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Posted 24th Dec 2016 at 18:19

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